
©■gig DJ.A 



TERRITORY OF FLORIDA: 



SKETCHES OF THE TOPOGRAPHY, 



CIVIL AND NATURAL HISTORY, 



THE COUNTRY, THE CLIMATE, AND THE INDIAN TRIBES, 



THE FIRST DISCOVERY TO THE PRESENT TIME, 



WITH A MAP, VIEWS, &C. 



BIT JOHN LEE WILLIAMS. 



NEW-YORK: 

A. T. GOODRICH 
1837. 



his 



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1837, by 

A. T. GOODRICH, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. 



37-7* 



Mahlon Day, Printer. 






PREFACE. 



In the preface to my View of West Florida, published in 1827; I inti- 
mated an intention of publishing, at some future period, a similar view of 
East Florida. To be, also, accompanied with a Map of the country. 
Since that time I have employed every interval of leisure, and every oppor- 
tunity, that business or accident has presented, to collect such facts, as 
v/ould enable me to point out its geographical peculiarities, its native pro- 
eductions and its civil and natural history. I have traversed the country in 
various directions and have coasted the whole shore of the Peninsula, from 
' Pensacola to St. Marys, examining, with minute attention, the various 
clusters of Keys or Islets, that are grouped on the margin of the coast. I 
have ascended many of the rivers, explored the lagoons and bays, traced the 
ancient improvements, scattered ruins and its natural productions, by land 
and by water. In addition to my own observations, I have availed myself 
of the knowledge collected by others. I am under obligations to the writ- 
ings of Garcelasso de la Vega, Romans, Roberts, Stork, the elder and 
younger Bartram, Darby, Forbes, Vignolles and Simmons, for various and 
extensive information, and I was lately favored with a rare and ancient 
manuscript in the Spanish language, in which the early history of Florida 
was condensed, with a regular succession of dates and events. On the sub- 
ject of the ancient aborigines of the south, this manuscript has been of 
great use to me ; on that of the missions established in the interior of the 
country for the dissemination of the Catholic religion, and for subjecting 
to the crown of Spain the powerful tribes which, at that time, swarmed over 
these extensive and beautiful regions, this information is in my estimation 
invaluable. We can now fully account for the piles of ruins, the extensive 
moats, the deep ditches, the numerous roads, the broad avenues, and the 



IV PREFACE. 

wide spreading fields, that even now, show signs of former cultivation. 
For a perusal of this manuscript I am indebted to the politeness of Mr. 
Tria one of the Aldermen of this city. And for its translation, I am un- 
der equal obligations to my lamented friend, the late Thomas Murphy Esq. 
Mr. Alvarez, Keeper of the Archives, has also carefully examined the 
protocols in his office, and thus enabled me to correct or establish many 
dates and facts of this history. Still I have to regret that the work is very 
imperfect. Not one half of the Territory has been yet surveyed. But 
a small portion is yet inhabited. The outline south of Tampa Bay and 
Indian River, I have been unable to fill up. The interior of this part of the 
Territory is wholly unexplored by white men, and the descriptions of the 
Indian inhabitants is at best imperfect. Such as it is, I have compared it 
with the statements of the elder Bartram and of Col. Gadsden, who 
crossed a corner of it near the head savannas of St. John's river. When I 
explored the coast, my force was not sufficient to ascend the large rivers 
that enter the Gulf of Mexico, and the great lakes that are believed to 
supply these rivers, are wholly unknown. 

From the eastern coast to the everglades, the distance is short ; I entered 
the borders of these. To explore them effectually the winter season must be 
improved. A boat must be had large enough to carry fuel as well as provis- 
ions and lodgings, for the eye can discover no timber, but rests on a boundless 
range of grass meadows, interspersed with Lagoons and Lakes, and swarm- 
ing with gnats and musquetoes. The traditions of the Indians state that 
there are many lovely Islets of timbered land interspersed over these wild 
and watery regions ; it may be true, but it is at least uncertain. It is stated 
in the manuscript of Mr. Tria, that at the time the English took possession of 
Florida, the catholic Yemmassees fled beyond the marshes, to islands inac- 
cessable to white men. It also states that a Spanish Gov. of Florida sent 
persons to inhabited islands in the great Myacco Lake to seek for pearls 
that were found in muscles. It is greatly to be hoped that our government 
will cause this part of the Territory to be carefully explored. We should 
not be indifferent to a knowledge of our own territories, at the same time 
that we send exploring vessels to examine the waters of the south seas. 
In the natural history of Florida, I have come very far short of my original 
intentions. Want of leisure and books were both felt as obstacles to the in- 



\ 



PREFACE. y 

vestigation of a field so boundless, but they were not the only ones. It 
was suggested to me by some friends whose opinions I have been accustomed 
to respect, that the subjects of natural history are not generally interesting 
to the mass of readers, and that it might be more expedient to devote to 
these a separate work. 

Among various improvements of the Map, I have inserted a complete 
outline of St. Andrews bay. This extensive sheet of water had never been 
examined by any of the surveyors of our coast or of the public lands, and the 
sketches on all our charts and maps, represent anything, but a correct de- 
lineation of one of the finest harbors on the Gulf of Mexico. The Wakasas- 
se Bay embraces the Fresh Water Keys, a group so extensive, that I have 
been unable to do more than to point to their location. Gauld here skipped 
over thirty miles of the coast, and modern surveyors have followed his ex- 
ample, probably because this bay is shut in, by an extensive reef, through 
which a navigable channel was not discovered. I however have much 
reason to believe that such a channel does exist, although I have not been 
so fortunate as to discover it. The Wakasasse river enters the east side of 
this Bay. 

The mouth of the Ouithlacouche river and the Anclote Keys, are cor- 
rectly laid on Patten's Chart, published in 1828. They are placed too far 
south on most of the Charts. On this Chart also, the Bay of Espiritu 
Santo is restored to its proper size and shape. It has been shamefully 
misrepresented on most of the former charts, and even on the recent Maps 
of Florida, professing to be correct. 

Cape Roman or Puerta Longa, I discovered, to be the extreme point of 
a large Island, fifteen miles in length. The Caximba* sound, which 
separates it from the main, is nine miles long and affords six feet water 
through. The width could not be discovered, it being full of extensive 
islands. To my great surprise, I have found here several well cultivated 
plantations, long hid from the civilized world. Sharks River, which occu- 
pies so conspicuous a place in most of our maps, I have omitted, simply be- 
cause I could not find it. From Racoon point about twelve miles above 
the cape, I examined the coast with much attention, but discovered only one 
small stream, called Dry river. It is connected with some lagoons, and 

* Pronounced Kahamba. 



PREFACE 



wide spreading fields, that even now, show signs of former cultivation. 
For a perusal of this manuscript I am indebted to the politeness of Mr. 
Tria one of the Aldermen of this city. And for its translation, I am un- 
der equal obligations to my lamented friend, the late Thomas Murphy Esq. 
Mr. Alvarez, Keeper of the Archives, has also carefully examined the 
protocols in his office, and thus enabled me to correct or establish many 
dates and facts of this history. Still I have to regret that the work is very 
imperfect. Not one half of the Territory has been yet surveyed. But 
a small portion is yet inhabited. The outline south of Tampa Bay and 
Indian River, I have been unable to fill up. The interior of this part of the 
Territory is wholly unexplored by white men, and the descriptions of the 
Indian inhabitants is at best imperfect. Such as it is, I have compared it 
with the statements of the elder Bartram and of Col. Gadsden, who 
crossed a corner of it near the head savannas of St. John's river. When I 
explored the coast, my force was not sufficient to ascend the large rivers 
that enter the Gulf of Mexico, and the great lakes that are believed to 
supply these rivers, are wholly unknown. 

From the eastern coast to the everglades, the distance is short ; I entered 
the borders of these. To explore them effectually the winter season must be 
improved. A boat must be had large enough to carry fuel as well as provis- 
ions and lodgings, for the eye can discover no timber, but rests on a boundless 
range of grass meadows, interspersed with Lagoons and Lakes, and swarm- 
ing with gnats and musquetoes. The traditions of the Indians state that 
there are many lovely Islets of timbered land interspersed over these wild 
and watery regions ; it may be true, but it is at least uncertain. It is stated 
in the manuscript of Mr. Tria, that at the time the English took possession of 
Florida, the catholic Yemmassees fled beyond the marshes, to islands inac- 
cessable to white men. It also states that a Spanish Gov. of Florida sent 
persons to inhabited islands in the great Myacco Lake to seek for pearls 
that were found in muscles. It is greatly to be hoped that our government 
will cause this part of the Territory to be carefully explored. We should 
not be indifferent to a knowledge of our own territories, at the same time 
that we send exploring vessels to examine the waters of the south seas. 
In the natural history of Florida, I have come very far short of my original 
intentions. Want of leisure and books were both felt as obstacles to the in- 



r R E F A C E . 






vestigation of a field so boundless, but they were not the only ones. It 
was suggested to me by some friends whose opinions I have been accustomed 
to respect, that the subjects of natural history are not generally interesting 
to the mass of readers, and that it might be more expedient to devote to 
these a separate work. 

Among various improvements of the Map, I have inserted a complete 
outline of St. Andrews bay. This extensive sheet of water had never been 
examined by any of the surveyors of our coast or of the public lands, and the 
sketches on all our charts and maps, represent anything, but a correct de- 
lineation of one of the finest harbors on the Gulf of Mexico. The Wakasas- 
se Bay embraces the Fresh Water Keys, a group so extensive, that I have 
been unable to do more than to point to their location. Gauld here skipped 
over thirty miles of the coast, and modern surveyors have followed his ex- 
ample, probably because this bay is shut in, by an extensive reef, through 
which a navigable channel was not discovered. I however have much 
reason to believe that such a channel does exist, although I have not been 
so fortunate as to discover it. The Wakasasse river enters the east side of 
this Bay. 

The mouth of the Ouithlacouche river and the Anclote Keys, are cor- 
rectly laid on Patten's Chart, published in 1828. They are placed too far 
south on most of the Charts. On this Chart also, the Bay of Espiritu 
Santo is restored to its proper size and shape. It has been shamefully 
misrepresented on most of the former charts, and even on the recent Maps 
of Florida, professing to be correct. 

Cape Roman or Puerta Longa, I discovered, to be the extreme point of 
a large Island, fifteen miles in length. The Caximba* sound, which 
separates it from the main, is nine miles long and affords six feet water 
through. The width could not be discovered, it being full of extensive 
islands. To my great surprise, I have found here several well cultivated 
plantations, long hid from the civilized world. Sharks River, which occu- 
pies so conspicuous a place in most of our maps, I have omitted, simply be- 
cause I could not find it. From Racoon point about twelve miles above 
the cape, I examined the coast with much attention, but discovered only one 
small stream, called Dry river. It is connected with some lagoons, and 

* Pronounced Kahamba. 



VI PREFACE. 

they have another outlet behind an island, about six miles north. It is pos- 
sible that such a river does exist farther north. No improvement can ever 
be made in Gauld's survey of the Florida Keys. And the Atlantic coast is 
generally correct. The whole face of the country east of the St. John's 
river is more particularly, and I trust more correctly exhibited on mine, than 
on any former map. Still perfect correctness cannot be expected, until the 
country is surveyed. 

I present the work to the public, as the best I have been able to render, 
and I trust that the leading facts and outlines will be found generally cor- 
rect. The style and manner has occupied less attention than the subject 
deserves, but had the author abilities, he has not had leisure to improve 
them. 



HISTORY OF FLORIDA 



The name " Florida" was at one period, applied to all that tract of 
country, which extends from Canada to the Rio del Norte. This extent 
has, in a course of two hundred years, been curtailed by various political 
arrangements, until it was finally settled, by the treaty with Spain, in 1795. 
Roberts, in his natural history, states, that this name was given by Ponce 
de Leon, in consecpience of his having discovered the country, on Easter 
day, in the year 1512. Without disputing with De Leon, the credit of 
naming the country, we must certainly deny that he was the original discov- 
erer ; as it is known, that Sebastian Cabot coasted the whole of its eastern 
shore, in 1498. 

By the treaty with Spain, in 1795, the Perdido was constituted the 
western limit of Florida. On the north, the 31° of north latitude was ex- 
tended, from the Perdido to the Chattahooche river, the boundary, thence 
descended that river to the forks of Appalachicola ; it thence proceeded east- 
ward, to the head of St. Mary ; thence down that river to its mouth. On 
the east, it is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean ; and by the Gulf of Mexi- 
co, on the south. Its length, from east to west, is about 385 miles : and 
its width, from north to south, varies from 50 to 250 miles, forming an 
area, of 57,000 square miles, and 37,000,000 acres of land. Its present 
population is 34,725 souls. 

The face of the country is uneven, but not mountainous. Numerous rivers 
intersect it, from north to south and some in all directions ; several of them, 
especially the St. Marys, St. Johns, and Appalachicola, afford excellent 
navigation for coasting vessels. The whole extent of the sea coast, is in- 
dented with bays and lagoons, and the interior of the country is diversified 
with beautiful lakes and ponds, abounding in fish and fowl, of various kinds, 
and of the most delicate flavor. No part of the United States affords 
greater facilities for internal and external commerce. A large portion of the 
country, is covered with pine forests ; the trees of which, standing at a con- 
siderable distance, from each other, without brush or underwood, affords an 



8 FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 

opportunity for the grass and flowers to spread luxuriantly, over the surface 
of the earth, during the whole year. The borders of water courses, how- 
ever, are usually skirted by hammocks, of hard timber, entangled with 
grape and other flowering vines. 

Notwithstanding so large a portion of Florida is of that quality, usually 
termed " pine barrens," and much of it extremely poor, still there are many 
extensive tracts of table land, hammock and swamp, of the richest soil, fine- 
ly adapted to the culture of sugar, rice, cotton, corn, tobacco and fruits. 
A considerable quantity of the pine land, is equally rich, and the barrens, 
themselves, afford extensive ranges of grazing land, usually intersected 
with streams of pure water. Many parts of the Territory abounds in yel- 
low pine and live oak timber. Our sea coast is generally healthy, in many 
parts remarkably so. The interior is not behind the coast, in this respect, 
unless it be, near extensive marshes. The seasons are mild, the mercury 
rarely arising to 90° in summer, or desending to 30° above zero in winter. 

The southern coast of Florida, between Perdido and cape St. Bias, a 
distance of a hundred and forty miles, is formed of pure white sand, princi- 
pally silicious, but mixed with calcareous particles of broken sea shells. 
Between cape St. Bias and Appalache Bay, the sand becomes of a yel- 
low brown color, and extensive salt marshes alternate with the sand hills. 
From the Appalache river to the Suwanne, a distance of 80 miles, a soft 
calcareous rock forms the sea coast : it is uniformly covered with coarse grass 
and rushes, which extends from the woody coast, several miles into the sea. 
The same limestone forms the base of the peninsula and of the Florida 
Keys ; but in the Appalache Bay it is sheltered from the storms, and is very 
shoal, so that, at low tide, the sea appears like a green meadow five or six 
miles from the coast. South of the Suwanne, the shore and keys present a 
bare rock with small trees of cabbage and cedar growing in the crevices, 
until we pass the Anclote Keys ; the sea then beats heavily on the shore, 
and makes a rough coast, as far south as Isle Roman. The pine barrens 
here, usually extend to the rocky shore. 

About the 27th degree, the coral insect begins to cover the calcareous 
rock, with his various and beautiful habitations. The first that we discovered 
near shore, is at Sarrazota sound or bay ; they become more general, farther 
south. The Florida Keys are wholly covered with them. From Appa- 
lache river, to Cape Sable, the reef extends very far from the shore. Oppo- 
site Wakasasse Bay, it is near twelve miles distant. It is broken at 
Tampa Bay and at Charlotte Harbor, and it closes with the land, at the 
middle curve of Cape Sable. The coral formation is prominent as far as 
the Soldier Keys. Key Biscayne is sandy, as is the coast north of it, as 
far as Jupiter Inlet. From thence the Coquina formation lines the coast, 



FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 9 

as high as Anastasia Island, in front of St. Augustine ; here it ceases, and 
not a rock of this formation is north of this Inlet. Coralines are discovered 
in Indian river, and even as high as Halifax river, but in no proportion to 
those on the western coast. North of St. Augustine, the whole coast is 
formed of white silicious sand, as far as the St. Marys. 

Between the Perdido Bay and the Escambia River, the interior country 
presents an exterior surface of fine silicious sand, on a substratum of clay. 
This clay presents various colors, as red, white, yellow and blue. The 
strata are often 30 feet thick, and are worked into excellent bricks. Iron 
sand-stone, of a dark brown color, is sometimes found here, especially near 
the Escambia River ; most of it appears to have been melted ; it is hard 
and answers well for rough walls. This tract of country is generally poor. 
It affords some good pine timber, and good grazing in wet seasons. Bricks 
are the most valuable productions ; they form a considerable article of com- 
merce. 

The peninsula, extending near 30 miles, between St. Rosa Sound and 
Pensacola Bay, is from two to five miles wide. It has a poor sandy soil, 
in some places chequered by small hammocks, pleasantly situated for coun- 
try seats. It is in some places subtended by peat, and at others with soft 
iron sand stone. 

On the north side of Pensacola Bay, Black Water River descends through 
a valley of fine timbered land, Near the head of the stream there are 
good hammock and pine tracts. Between this river and the Escambia, the 
Pine Level affords some excellent farms. 

North of the Chactawhatche Bay, a high ridge of land divides the water 
courses, which fall southwardly into the bay, and northwardly into Shoal 
and Titi creeks ; both tributaries of Yellow Water River. This ridge termin- 
ates, near the sources of Allaqua river, Uche and Shoal Creeks, in groups 
of high peaks. 

A pleasant country extends from the Allaqua to the Uche Valley. It 
forms the eastern part of Walton county. The Allaqua passes over a soap- 
stone formation. The Uche creek drains the only limestone country, west 
of the Chactawhatche River. North of the Uche creek, burrstone is 
found, extending, in detached masses, far into Alabama and Georgia. It 
seems a congeries of small tellina shells, quite entire, cemented together 
with a strong alluminous matter, nearly as hard as chalcedony. It is quite 
porous and has been manufactured into excellent mill-stones. It is of a 
light brown color, its break conchoidal, has an earthy appearance, and rings 
like marble. 

Ponds and lime sinks are numerous between the Chactawhatche and 
Chipola rivers. Large springs, forming navigable streams, frequently 



10 FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 

burst from this formation. The waters, although perfectly transparent, are 
highly impregnated with lime, and are considered as rather unhealthy. 
Approaching the Chipola, the limestone acquires greater firmness, loses 
the shelly structure and clayey concrete ; it often swells into hills, or high 
platforms, covered with grass ; but from want of soil, trees cannot take root. 
At other places, the rocks diverge in broken fragments, and are interspersed 
with dogwood, plumb and hydrangie bushes. The land, in this district of 
country, is excellent and already supports a dense population. But they 
do not extend more than twenty miles from the Alabama line ; towards the 
coast, the pine barrens again predominate. The Econfina river bursts from 
the limestone formation and traverses a valley of fine land, to the Bay of 
St. Andrews. 

The limestone of Florida, is a deposition, but little harder than chalk, of 
a bluish cast, amorphous, with nodules of hornestone. It hardens when 
exposed to the air ; lies in different strata, and ascends to the ridge of the 
peninsula. The different strata are separated by clay or sand. Chrystal- 
ized limestone is found in Hamilton county near the Suwanne river, and on 
the Econfina, in Washington county. 

On the east side of the Appalachicola, there are very high rocky banks, but 
after passing them, there are few indications of stone, until we approach Leon 
county. Here a ledge of rocks surrounds the Appalache Bay, at four to 
six miles distance, forming falls and rapids in all the streams, passing into 
the bay, except Oscilla, which finds a passage beneath it. A higher 
stratum pervades the hills of Tallahasse ; it is of a light yellow, enclosing 
both shells and bones, but when calcined forms a very good mild lime. The 
silex contained in the limestone formation, is usually of a light grey color, 
does not form kidney shaped masses, but spreads through the mass, in 
cones, full of holes, which are filled with calcareous matter ; when this is 
washed out by the water, the residue forms very rough flinty reefs. The 
hornstone is quite opaque, breaks with a conchoidal fracture, and gives fire 
freely with steel. But it is void of that greasy feel, usual to the kidney 
shaped masses. The rock formation is very productive of grass. This 
vegetable constantly springs up from it, through salt or fresh water, even to 
the depth of twent}' feet. Oysters grow to the rocks in great masses, and 
are hard to separate from them. Through Gadsden and Leon counties, the 
limestone is covered with yellow or red clay, from 20 to 100 feet deep ; the 
red clay here, terminates an extensive formation, which extends along the 
east side of the Apalachian mountains, through Georgia and the Caroli- 
nas. It is always rich in vegetable productions, and lies in graceful undula- 
tions ; in its natural state, covered with black oaks, cane brakes and vines. 
The soil in this part of the Territory, is usually a brown loam, very rich and 



FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 11 

productive ; the pines usually mark those lands latest cultivated ; these 
are extensive and strongly marked with ancient ditches, foundations, wells 
&c. The springs are numerous and pure, rising above the limestone, but 
they scarcely ever attain the size of mill streams, ere they are precipitated 
into the caverns of the earth, to join the subterraneous torrents which occa- 
sionally burst out in navigable rivers. Lakes, ponds, and sinks are also com- 
mon. Some of the former can scarcely be excelled in beauty. The waters of 
most of them are transparent and cool, abound in fish, and evidently appear 
to be connected with the rivers beneath the surface of the earth. They 
are, however, usually tinctured with lime. 

East of the Wakasasse Bay, the coast bends rapidly to the southeast. 
In this angle, the coast is fiat and rilled with a large cluster of islands, call- 
ed the Fresh Water Keys. The Wakasasse River empties its waters behind 
them, through a low marshy coast. The country then rises into rich ham- 
mocks, and extends over a series of sandy ridges, occasionally broken by 
masses of limestone, to the Allachua country. This is a Seminole name 
given to a rich tract of land thirty or forty miles in extent but wholly unde- 
fined as it regards boundary. The name has been applied to a county of 
great extent ; which, however, embraces the original Allachua. This part 
of the country is curiously diversified with savannas, lakes, ridges of ham- 
mock, and plains of pine barren. The soil is equally various, in one part 
covered with a rich black loam, in another sand mixed with limestone, sand- 
stone, or flint. In some places for a great extent, not even a pebble can be 
found. Some of the savannas, the Allachua in particular, are 15 miles in 
length, covered with tall grass ; adjoining a ridge of sand hills will remind 
one of the sea coast, and the hammocks present groves of live oak, exactly 
similar to the shores of the Gulf, which are however twenty-five to thirty 
miles distant. On the w T hole, the Allachua is a fine country of land, and 
will support a dense population ; the titles to the land here are generally 
settled. There are considerable tracts of good land on both sides of the 
Santaffe river, which empties into the eastern side of the Suwanne. But 
from that stream to the Georgia line, the lands are poor, rolling, pine barren ; 
this kind of land extends eastward, to the heads of St. Marys and Nassau 

rivers. 

South of the Allachua, the lands towards Fort King, are diversified with 
pine groves and hammocks of an excellent quality. That towards the 
sea coast, falls off in gentle swells of pine land. 

South of Fort King, the Big swamp, Long swamp and Wahoo swamp, 
present large bodies of first rate sugar lands. On every part of the coun- 
try, watered by the Ouithlacouche, the lands are diversified with rich ham- 
mocks, dense swamps, good pine flats, wet savannas and extensive grassy 



12 FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 

ponds. South of the Ouithlacouche and near the sea coast, is a very ex- 
tensive tract of rich swamp land, eight or ten miles in length, and from three 
to four in breadth. The country, from Fort Cooper to Chicuchatty, is a 
high healthy country and much of it covered with a rich soil. 

Between Chicuchatty and Fort Alabama, there are considerable ridges 
of sand hills ; but on the head waters of Hillsboro river, are many beautiful 
and rich hammocks. East of the great Bay of Tampa, the country is 
usually covered with pine. Some of the lands, that have a substratum of 
clay, will produce excellent crops, and there are occasionally small ham- 
mocks about the water courses. The Indians cultivate excellent lands, in 
the neighborhood of Hitchepucksasse. But in general, from the bay to 
Peace river, the country is fiat and rather poor, even as far south as Char- 
lotta Bay. 

So far as Peace and Macaco rivers have been explored, they rise in good 
stron."- land. Below Apopkachee Lake, the Indian towns had become, before 
the war, quite populous ; some of them contained, from one to two hundred 

houses. 

But from this lake to the Apopka on the Ocklawaha the country runs 
into rido-es of sandy pine barrens, and this is the character of all the region 
about the head waters of the Ocklawaha. Some of the ridges break off, 
abruptly, into high peaks. 

Between the Allachua country and the St. Johns river the surface is gen- 
erally covered with pine timber. From the heads of Santaffe and Black 
Creek to the Orange Lake Creek there is a ridge of high sand hills broken 
by numerous ponds and Lakes, among them are many tracts of good land 
that formerly sheltered small Indian villages. Such were the Ettini and 
Santaffe hammocks. 

East of this ridge the country is fiat pine land diversified with streams of 
good water, and is altogether most excellent for grazing. The east side of 
the St. John's, is very similar to the west, except that the grass is 
not so abundant and of course less valuable for raising stocks of 
cattle. Hogs on the contrary, thrive better on the east than on the west 
of the St. John's. 

There is little difference in either soil or productions from the St. Marys 
to Musquito. The sea coast is covered with palmettoes. Two or three 
miles from the sea shore, there is a strip, from one to four miles wide, covered 
with excellent land, bordering on the lagoons, that stretch parrallel with the 
shore. West of that are flat pine lands. 

South of Musquito, and of Volusia on the St. John's, the country chang- 
es rapidly. Vast grass meadows, and savannas, diversified with clusters of 
cabbage-palms, and live oaks, are separated by strips of pine land and ham- 



FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 13 

mocks of wild orange, and verges fast towards a tropical complexion, 
which increases as you approach Cape Florida. 

The Peninsula, which extends southwardly between the Atlantic and the 
Gulf, is yet imperfectly explored. In soil and productions, it varies, con- 
siderably from the northern part of the Territory. This difference is 
more remarkable after passing the 27th degree of latitude. The shores and 
Islands of the south are uniformly covered with mangrove bushes ; these 
as we approach the cape, become forests of tall trees. This timber extends 
as far info the country as the salt water. 

The back country presents a singular alternation of savannas, ham- 
mocks, lagoons and grass ponds, called altogether the Everglades. These 
extend into the heart of the country, for two hundred miles north of Cape 
Sable. They are drained on the north by the noble river St. John's, and on 
the west by Macaco or Charlotte river. A great number of small streams 
drain it on the east and west ; among the former are the St. Sebastians, St. 
Lucia, Potomac, Rattones, and Miame, and among the latter the Gallivan, 
Swallow river and St. Marys. Sharks river, if it exists at all, must enter 
the Gulf much farther north than it is located, on Vignoles' and Tanners' 
maps, as we have critically examined the coast, from cape Sable; ten or 
twelve miles north, where no such river is found. There is a curious con- 
trast between the calm and gentle swells of the Gulf of Mexico, and the 
furious surf that eternally lashes the Atlantic coast. In the Gulf, the tide 
rises only two and a half feet, but on the Atlantic, it rises more than six 
feet. In the Gulf on the western side of the peninsula, the soundings 
range from seven to fourteen fathoms, at twenty miles from the coast. On 
the Atlantic, the same distance from the shore, in many places, sound- 
ings are lost. The eddies of the Gulf stream, throw upon the 
eastern coast, such a quantity of broken shells, called coquina, that, 
from St. Augustine to Key Largo, the mouths of all the rivers are dammed 
up, and their waters thrown back on the country. Such are the waters of 
Indian river, as well as Hillsborough, Halifax and Matanzas. These are 
shut out from the sea, by banks of shells and sand, from fifteen to thirty 
feet high. The waters thus barred out from the ocean, unite laterally, and 
form extensive lagoons, peculiarly calculated for inland navigation. At 
this time, fourteen miles of canal would open an inland navigation from Ju- 
piter Inlet, to the river St. Marys, a distance of three hundred miles. When 
the waters of these Lagoons are greatly swelled, by rains in the upper 
country, they burst their shelly barriers and open a deep channel into the 
ocean, through which the waters are soon drained, and the waves again 
commence a natural dam, to close the inlet. Jupiter Inlet has several times 
been opened and closed, and the Matanzas, about ten years since, under- 



14 CLIMATE. ' 

went the same operation. As soon as the shells are cast on the shore, the 
rains dissolve the calcareous matter, chrystalization commences, be- 
tween the fragments, and the rudiments of a rock are formed. The 
Coquina formation has probably commenced within a few hundred years. 
It extends from Anastatia Island, south, beyond Indian River, but is scarce- 
ly ever six miles wide, and generally not more than two. We think the form- 
ation began at. the south ; the rocks there appear much older than they do 
here. Very small quantities of shell are thrown on the coast, at Cape 
Canaveral, while here, they are extremely abundant. The strata are hori- 
zontal, and of various thickness. They have been quarried to the depth of 
twenty feet, but we have not been able to learn how much farther they des- 
cend into the earth. The houses of St. Augustine and the extensive old 
fort Marian, are built of this stone. 

CLIMATE. 

The climate of Florida is various, embracing six degrees of latitude and 
as many of longitude. We necessarily feel a great difference of tempera- 
ture between the north and the south, as well as between the east and the 
west. The mean temperature of St. Augustine is about 68i°. It is a little 
higher in Pensacola ; at that place it is also colder in the winter. Frost is 
felt at some seasons, in every part of Florida, though not usually below 
latitude 27°. During eighteen years that we have resided in Florida, the 
greatest heat has been 96° of Farenheit, in the shade. Three or four 
times it has arisen to this height, and on the sixth April, 1828, it was as low 
as 30. At that time ice was made an inch thick at six mile creek, and cut 
off the crops of corn and cotton as far south as Tomoko, while at St. 
Augustine and Duns Lake, the marks of frost were scarcely discoverable. 
In usual seasons, the mercury rises to about 90° in the hottest days of mid- 
summer, and falls to 43 during the coldest days of winter. In West Florida, 
the north west winds are felt, much more powerfully, than in East Florida. 
Its effect on fruit trees is extremely obvious. The sweet orange cannot be 
depended on at Pensacola, while at St. Augustine it, in usual seasons, 
affords the staple of commerce. The land and sea breezes alternate with 
much greater regularity in West than East Florida. The Peninsula of 
East Florida projects so far to the east, as to divide the current of the trade 
wind ; one portion of it passes up the coast and forms the charming sea- 
breeze that fans us so constantly, each day of summer, except it be kept in 
check, by the north east wind. In west Florida, the struggle is between 
the north west wind and the trade wind. During winter, our north east 
winds are chilly, damp and often rough ; but they are never charged with 
frost, which is often the case with the north west. 



DISEASES, 15 

DISEASES AND HEALTH, 

The health of Florida has been justly proverbial, still there are parts 
of the Territory that have ever proved unhealthy, and the healthiest parts 
have, at times, been visited with epidemics, of a very fatal character. In 
the year 1765, a regiment of soldiers were sent from England to Pensacola, 
during a very hot summer ; on their arrival they were confined, during day 
and night, within the walls of the fort, at Barrancas, which excluded the 
sea breezes ; they soon became infected with a malignant fever, which prov- 
ed very fatal to the common soldiers, while that part of the troops which 
continued on board the vessels, enjoyed perfect health. 

In 1821, St. Augustine was visited with the yellow fever. It broke out 
in several old buildings situated in the back part of the city, which had for a 
long time been closed up, their owners having retired to Havanna. On the 
cession of the country to the United States, a sudden increase of population 
occasioned these houses to be thrown open and rented to strangers. One 
of them was hired late in October to several American Officers, three of 
them fell immediate victims to the fatal disease. In some instances the 
sickness commenced in vessels lying in the harbor, which had brought 
fruit from Cuba. One of these had on the voyage lost the Captain 
and most of the crew, by sickness. Some early cases of fever were traced 
to other vessels. In most cases however, the sickness seemed to originate 
in the place of its operation. Since this period, St. Augustine has been 
distinguished as one of the most healthy spots, in the United States. 

In 1822, Pensacola was again visited by the yellow fever. The court 
of General, then Gov. Jackson was fixed there ; the place was full of 
strangers, and there was no efficient police. The streets and lots were ex- 
ceedingly filthy, especially near the bay. At this time, a cargo of spoiled 
codfish arrived from Cuba, and was distributed among the huckster shops. 
From this moment, the pestilence spread like wild-fire, sweeping whole fami- 
lies, and often whole streets in one general destruction, which ended only, 
with a total removal of the whole population, or rather the recent popula- 
tion, for none of the old inhabitants were afflicted with the pestilence. 

Key West was distressed by a similar visitation in 1824. The fever was 
particularly fatal to the young Officers of the fleet under Commodore Por- 
ter. In 1829, the same place was nearly depopulated by the same fever. 

Key West is surrounded by the sea, and exposed to breezes from every 
quarter of the compass. A portion of the Island is covered with salt ponds. 
While the tide ebbs and flows freely into these, no injury could result. 
When that is not the case, they ought to be opened. At certain seasons of 
the year, seaweeds, in great abundance, are cast on the shore, and usually 



16 WEATHER. 

smell very badly, but they soon decay and are washed away by the tide. 
There appears no reason why this Tsland should be permanently unhealthy. 
Indian Key is peculiarly healthy, and it is worthy of remark, that musqui- 
toes disappear in a great measure from these Islands when cultivated. 

The Tomoko settlement, in East Florida, St. Marks, in Middle Florida, 
Fort Gadsden on the Apalachicoia river and the western bank of the 
Chipola, have often been visited by malignant fevers. All these places are 
surrounded by low and rich lands, and the latter situation is covered by a 
very dense population. It is believed that the health of all these places 
will improve, as the country around becomes more extensively cultivated. 
f Tallahasse, the seat of our Territorial government, is a new town settled 
in 1824. It has been usually healthy, except the years 1831 and 1832; 
during these seasons fevers prevailed over the Middle District generally. 
Since those periods, the inhabitants have in common seasons enjoyed excel- 
lent health. 

Tampa Bay, where nearly three hundred troops have been station- 
ed, for seven or eight years, has proved peculiarly salubrious. Not one 
death has occurred by fevers of any kind. Indeed there have been very 
few deaths from any cause. 

When a new country is first improved, and the surface of the earth with 
all its decaying vegetable matter is exposed to the sun, it is then if ever, 
subject to fevers. We cannot with certainty foretell what may be the ef- 
fect of a crowded population in this climate. But, thus far, our prospect of 
health, equals that of any state in the union. 

WEATHER. 

St. Augustine has become celebrated for restoring tone to the system, in 
Pulmonary and Bronchial complaints. And invalids from every part of the 
United States resort here, during the winter season to avoid the severity of 
the northern frosts, and to enjoy the mildness of our southern breezes. 

Seabathing is greatly practiced in west Florida by all classes of citizens, 
and is believed to restore more strangers to health, than any other prescrip- 
tion. The benefits resulting from it, in East Florida are equally great, in 
proportion to its practice. Riding and walking are exercises more practic- 
ed, in St. Augustine, than in any other part of the Territory. 

From October to June, the weather is usually serene and temperate. A 
few very hot days generally occur about the month of June and the begin- 
ning of July. In February we often experience a week of cold uncomforta- 
ble weather, and rough winds from the North East are frequently felt early 
in the Spring. But in usual winters, we see no snow, and frost continues 



WEATHER. 17 

but for a few days. Flowers decorate our gardens and our wild savannas, 
during the whole year. 

There are however, exceptions to this routine of soft breezes and bloom- 
ing flowers. In the year 1765, Mr. John Bartram, English botanist, spent 
the winter months in East Florida. On the 3d of January, being on the 
St. Johns river, south of lake George, he states the "thermometer was at 26° 
wind N. W. The ground was frozen an inch thick on the banks : this 
was the fatal night that destroyed the lime, citron and bananna trees in St. 
Augustine." In 1774, there was a snow storm, which extended over most 
of the Territory. The ancient inhabitants still speak of it as an extraor- 
dinary white rain. It was said to have done little damage. 

During the year 1822, in February, the cold was so intense in West 
Florida, that all the fruit trees were killed, to the ground ; and several per- 
sons, in exposed situations, were chilled to death. This season was com- 
paratively mild in East Florida. On the contrary, East Florida suffered 
exceedingly, from a violent frost on the 6th of April, 1828. The winter 
had been unusually mild, there had been no check to vegetation, in trees or 
plants. On this bitter night, crops of cotton, corn and fruits, were all de- 
stroyed. The thermometer, at Six Mile Creek, on the St. Johns River, 
stood at 27°. This frost did not extend to West Florida. 

Severe storms, are usually expected about the equinoxes, though several 
successive years often intervene without a gale. They rarely penetrate far 
inland. Although a few vestiges of severe hurricanes are seen, which 
must have prostrated all the timber on extensive tracts of country, yet none 
have been experienced, since the Americans have taken possession of Flori- 
da. Showers of rain are frequent during the summer ; they are sometimes, 
but not usually attended by severe lightnings. During the season of 1830, 
the lightning was unusually fatal. 

The average temperature, at Mr. Andrew Ellicot's station, on the Appa- 
lachicola river, during the months of August and September 1799, taken at 
7 A. M. and 2 P. M. was 77° and 86°. On the 28th August the heat 
at the same hours was 74° and 96°. It has never been higher in any part 
of the Territory, so far as our information extends. 

During the winter of 1800, at Pensacola, the mean temperature, was at 
7 A. M. 44°, at 2 P. M. 54. The coldest days at the same hours was 
30° and 51°. 

At Amelia Island, the same year, the mean temperature in January, was 
44° at 7 o'clock and 61° at two o'clock P. M. In St Augustine, during 
the years 1825, 6, 7, and 8, the mean temperature was 68^° 

The coldest day in 1825 was 30th Dec. ... 42° 
The hottest, 20th Aug. .... - 94° 

3 



18 WEATHER. 

In 1S26, the coldest day, 21st Jan 44° 

The hottest, 5th July. ...... 92° 

In 1827, the coldest day, 6th Feb 43° 

The hottest, 16th July 92° 

In 1828, the coldest, 6th April . . . . 27° 

The hottest . 95° 

1829, the coldest 32° 

The hottest 96° 

1830, hottest 96° 

The winter of 1830, was so mild that banannas grew in the open gar- 
dens, at St. Augustine, without injury, and were in blossom on the 15th 
May. Corn also, grew, during the whole winter. We had roasting ears 
in May, and abundance of Irish potatoes, which were planted in December. 

During the month of February, 1835, East Florida was visited by a frost, 
much more severe than any before experienced A severe north west wind 
blew ten days in succession, but more violent for about three days ; during 
this period the mercury sank seven degrees below zero. The St. Johns 
River was frozen several rods from the shore, and afforded the astonished in- 
habitants a spectacle as new as it was distressing. All kinds of fruit trees 
were killed, to the ground ; many of them never started again, even from 
the roots. The wild groves suffered equally with those cultivated. The 
orange had become the staple of our commerce ; several millions were ex- 
ported from the St. Jo'ms and St. Augustine, during each of the last two 
years. Numerous groves were just planted out, and extensive nurseries 
could scarcely supply the demand for young trees. Some of the groves 
had, during the previous autumn, brought to their owners, one, two and 
three thousand dollars ; and the increasing demand for this fruit, opened in 
prospect, mines of wealth to the inhabitants, 

" Then came a frost, a withering' frost." 

Some of the orange groves in East Florida were estimated at, from five to 
ten thousand dollars. They were at once rendered nearly valueless. The 
Minorcan population, at St. Augustine, had been accustomed to depend on 
the produce of their little groves of eight or ten trees, to purchase their 
coffee, sugar and other necessaries from the stores , they were left without 
resource. 

The town of St. Augustine, that heretofore, appeared like a rustic vil- 
lage, their white houses peeping from among the clustered boughs and 
golden fruit of their favorite tree, beneath whose shade, the foreign invalid 
cooled his fevered limbs and imbibed health from the fragrant air, how is 
she fallen ! Dry unsightly poles with ragged bark, stick up around her 
dwellings, and where the mocking-bird once delighted to build her nest, 



BAYS. J9 

and tune her lovely song, owls now hoot at night, and sterile winds whistle 
through the leafless branches. Never was a place more desolate. 

With the blessing of usual seasons for two or three years, we shall proba- 
bly begin again to have some fruit. The young groves are rising from 
eight to ten feet high, and a few blossoms were this spring discovered on a 
few trees ; but it will require ten years to restore our groves to the state they 
were in before the frost destroyed them. 

The groves of wild orange are at this time, .1837, in full bearing, south of 
of Volusia on the St. Johns river, and at Musquito on the coast of the Atlantic. 

Peaches, plumbs, and figs, are again in full bearing, and the mulberry, 
the Multicaulis in particular, are now rapidly increasing, and will soon add 
a new production to the commerce of Florida. 

Most of the tropical fruits, will grow as far north as 27° of latitude ; al- 
though in some particular seasons, they will be likely to suffer from the 
cold. The cocoanut and sugar apple grow wild at Cape Sable and Cape 
Florida, and even as high as Charlotte Harbor. 

The ovino, custard apple, hickok, and huesco plumbs are abundant, on 
the east bank of Indian River. 

BAYS. 

Perdido or lost bay, divides Florida from Alabama, on the west. It is a 
pleasant sheet of water, about 30 miles in length and from two to six miles 
wide, and swarms with excellent fish. Its banks, in many places, are 
formed of clay bluffs, proper for bricks. The country around, is healthy 
and abounds in excellent pine timber. The land however, is generally 
poor. The western arm, stretching near to Bonsecours, is called La 
Lance. This bay has a narrow and crooked outlet, the bar shifting, from 
five to seven feet water. 

Pensacola, formerly called Ochusa, took its name from a tribe of Indians, 
who formerly inhabited the northern bank. It is from twenty-five to thirty 
miles long and from four to seven broad. It was discovered by Maldonado, 
one of Ferdinand de Soto's officers, in 1540. It was then called Ochusa 
by the natives. About eleven miles from the Gulf, it is divided into three 
parts : the western arm is called Escambia Bay ; this is eleven miles long 
and four broad, and receives the Escambia River from the north, among nu- 
merous, marshy islands. The middle arm is called Yellow Water Bay ; it 
is nearly the same size as Escambia. It receives the Yellow Water River, 
from the east, through several mouths. Black Water Bay, an oval sheet 
of water, seven miles long and two broad, is attached to the N. W. end of 
Yellow Water Bay. Black Water Bay is full of small islands. It re- 
ceives from the north Black Water River and Cedar Creek. 



20 BAYS AND LAGOONS. 

East Bay is the third prong, it extends about seven miles into the country, 
where it tapers off into a small river, very near to St. Rosa's Sound. This 
is a noble bay, admits the largest class of our Frigates, which can lie in 
safety, sheltered from all winds. It is connected with St. Rosa Sound on 
the south east, and through that, with the Chactawhatchee Bay and thence 
into the Gulf, through the Pass L' Este, at the east end of St. Rosa Is- 
land. Its entrance, between the fort of Barrancas and the west end of St. 
Rosa, is about three fourths of a mile wide. It has at the lowest tides 21 
feet of water on the bar, and usually 24 to 25. Large vessels coming 
from the eastward, should keep in seven fathoms until the Lighthouse 
bears north by west, then run for it across the bar, till the west end of St. 
Rosa bears east by south, you will then be within the island and may haul 
up to the east. Vessels coming from the westward may safely run to five 
fathoms, then take the same course. Vessels drawing no more than 14 
feet, may bring the light to bear north three fourths west, then steer for it, 
till within a half mile, thence E. by N. till shelte 1 ed by the island. The 
ebb tide sets S. W. directly on the Caycos shoal. The flood tide sets 
across the middle ground. 

The Grand Lagoon extends from the entrance of Pensacola Bay, below 
Barrancas, eight miles westward, and within three fourths of a mile of Per- 
dido Bay, with which it might be connected at a trifling expense. Tt has 
an inlet from the Gulf near the west end. Near Barrancas, the entrance 
of the Lagoon is constantly growing more shoal. 

The Big Bayou opens from Pensacola Baj^, one and a half miles above 
Tartar Point. Three miles farther up the bay, Bayou Chico presents an 
inlet to Camp Clinch. This is a beautiful little sheet of water, and a fine 
harbor for the small craft attached to the station. 

Bayou Texar enters the bay one mile above Pensacola. It is four miles 
long, but narrow. The Bayou Mulatto enters the bay from the east twenty 
five miles from the coast. 

St. Rosa Sound is about forty miles, from east to west, and from one half, 
to two and a half miles wide. Vessels drawing five feet may pass through 
it into Chactawhatchee Bay, and thence, through Pass L' Este, into the 
Gulf. This Sound is sheltered from the Gulf by St. Rosa Island. On 
its northern shore are many small hammocks, finely watered, affording 
charming sites for country seats. 

Chactawhatchee Bay bay affords good navigation for vessels drawing 
six feet water. It extends from east to west, forty miles, and is from seven 
to fifteen miles wide. It receives the Chactawhatchee River from the 
north, also the Aliqua and several large and fine creeks. There is much 
excellent land and abundance of fine live oak on the north east shore of 



BAYS. 21 

this bay. The eastern shore is low, rich ground, the western high pine 
barren, with small shell hammocks. The reeds and grass are so high and 
thick, that the N. E. shore, for eight or nine miles, cannot be approached, 
except through some water course. This bay is much affected by storms, 
and many shoal capes extending far into the bay, the navigation is consid- 
ered dangerous. It communicates with the Gulf, through Pass L' Este, 
at the south west end, and is connected with Pensacola Bay by St. Rosa 
Sound. When the wind blows strongly from the south, it raises a heavy 
surf on the bar of Pass L' Este, and when the tide ebbs against it, a 
passage should not be attempted. The British established a profitable 
fishery here. It might at this time be improved to great advantage. 

St. Andrews Bay was, until lately, almost unknown. At some future 
time, it must become a place of importance, It is easy of access, has 
eighteen feet water on the bar, has good anchorage and is perfectly shelter- 
ed from all winds. Its various arms are very capacious, some of thern ex- 
tend thirty miles into the country. The north and eastern divisions extend 
near to the rich settlements of Chipola, the principal part of the trade, of 
which, passes through this bay. The main entrance is between Sand Is- 
land and Hammock Island. Another channel between Hammock and 
Crooked Islands is almost as good, but is not so direct to the sea. The 
main body of the bay extends north twelve miles, and thus far, averages 
from two to five miles in width. One mile from the sea beach, an arm 
about one mile wide, runs westward, parallel with the coast, for twenty 
miles, Ten miles from the sea, another arm branches off to the eastward 
thirty miles. This arm is in some places ten and in others not more than 
one mile wide. It approaches within seven miles of the Chipola Inunda- 
tion. A company has been incorporated to connect the two waters. 
Should this be carried into effect, St. Andrews will command the trade of 
Appalachicola River. 

The Wapaluxjr Bay recedes from St. Andrews, fifteen miles from the sea, 
on the western side of the north arm. It is a circular basin about twelve 
miles in diameter, and is from twelve to fourteen feet deep. It is surrounded 
by low fiat pine barren, a creek enters the western border, which interlocks 
with the pond branch of the Chactawhatchee. Four miles above Wapa- 
luxy, on the north arm, is Little Oyster Point, thus far any vessel may as- 
cend that can cross the bar. From this point to the head of the bay is eight 
miles, the water gradually shoals to seven feet. Here, at the ware houses 
of Sewal and Bower, the produce of the interior country is shipped. At 
this place the Econfina River enters the bay. The sound behind Ham- 
mock Island affords shelter for vessels drawing 18 feet water, and is easy 
of access at either end of the island. 



22 BAYS. 

St. Josephs Bay presents a wide entrance from the N. W., affording on 
the bar, seventeen feet water. A middle ground occupies much of the 
space, between Cape False and the peninsula. On this, there is from nine 
to eleven feet. There are two channels nearly equal in depth, the one 
near to Cape False on the N. W. the other close to the point of the penin- 
sula, on the south side of the entrance. The bay is from seven to eight 
miles wide and near twenty in length. The water shoals near four miles 
from the S. E. end of the bay. Here is a picturesque Island about two 
miles from the end, covered with live oak, cedar and palms. The N. E. 
shore is intersected by ponds and lagoons. The southern point of the 
crooked peninsula stretches far into the sea and forms Cape St. Bias. 
On the eastern shore of this bay the town of St. Joseph has lately been 
built. The north end of this peninsula is blown up, into sharp and high 
sand hills ; behind these, near the south entrance, is a level plain, covered 
with a forest of tall pines, which may be seen far at sea. 

The Appalachicola Bay is formed by the islands of St. Vincents and St. 
George, enclosing the mouth of the river. It is thirty miles long and eight 
wide. Vessels drawing fourteen feet water can enter the bay, and with 
eight feet, can approach the mouth of the river, at the village of that 
name. The river Appalachicola being the only river that extends far into 
this part of the country, the Village here must ultimately become a place 
of considerable importance, unless the connection of the Chipola, with the 
east arm of St. Andrews, or the new town of St. Joseph shall divert the 
rich produce of the interior into other channels. The Appalachicola Bay 
is connected with the Gulf, by the Indian Pass, between St. Vincents Is- 
land and the main. This pass is rapidly filling, with oyster shoals ; there is 
not, at present, more than four feet water on the bar. The main channel is 
between St. Vincents and St. George islands and on the east side of a round 
sand bar, called Flag Island, situated in the entrance. From the north 
end of St. Vincents an extensive oyster bar runs in a circle eastward, near- 
ly enclosing the inlet ; a narrow passage runs near the west end of St. 
George Island, sweeping round to the north east, making a circle, near 
to Cat Point, before it crosses over to the mouth of the river. St. George 
Sound opens a communication, between Appalachicola Bay and the Gulf. 
It is upwards of twenty miles long and from three to four wide, and, but for 
an oyster bar, would afford an important inland passage. This bar crosses 
the sound, from north to south, and has not three feet water at low tide, in- 
deed it is in many places quite bare. But a passage of deep water is said 
to have been lately found through this bar. Near Cat Point, the oysters 
are numerous and large. Between St. George and Dog Islands the chan- 
nel is wide and deep. At the east end of Dog Island there is a fine harbor 



BAYS. 23 

with eleven feet water. New River'enters the sound, exactly north of the 
west end of Dog Island. 

Oclockony Bay is about seven miles long and from one to two miles 
broad. It has six feet water on the bar, at low tide. The river of the same 
name enters the west end, but a large branch is divided off to the west 
which, after skirting James Island, for nearly 20 miles, joins New River and 
with it enters St. George Sound. 

Appalache Bay is that large indentation of the coast, which sweeps 
round, from South Cape, to Histahatchee Bay, forming a circle, of seventy 
to eighty miles. This bay is open to the south and affords no safe harbor 
to large vessels. The shoals off South Cape break the seas so that mer- 
chant vessels drawing from ten to twelve feet may lie in safety off the 
mouth of the river, and with eight feet, may enter the Spanish Hole, where 
they are sheltered from all winds. A great reef of rocks project from the 
shore of the bay from ten to twenty miles, and many round shoals rise in 
different parts of it. Among these there is usually from ten to twelve feet 
water, and as there is no heavy seas, except when southern storms arise, 
the Appalache is usually navigated in safety. It is wholly surrounded on 
the north and east by green marshes, sprinkled with islets of cedar and live 
oak ; in some places with cabbage-palms, which grow higher on this rocky 
coast, than in any other part of Florida The port of Magnolia is much 
frequented, since the establishment of the seat of Government, at Tallahas- 
se, and a new town has lately been laid out, at St. Marks, the old fort of 
the Spaniards. In this bay, commerce will keep pace with the rapid popu- 
lation of the country. Seven feet water can be carried to Magnolia, six- 
teen miles from the mouth of the Appalache, on the St. Marks fork of the 
river. A rail road is now completed, connecting Tallahasse with St. 
Marks. 

The Wakasasse Bay is formed by the.delta of the Suwanne River. It 
is sheltered from the Gulf by Oyster Shoals. The eastern pait is filled 
with the Fresh Water Keys. It has 12 feet water, and is perfectly sheltered ; 
but a navigable entrance has not yet been found, although there are strong 
reasons to believe that there is one. It may be entered from the Anclote 
Keys by crafts drawing seven feet. 

Anclote Sound is sheltered on the west, by Anclote, Jacs and Sand Keys. 
There is ten feet water and good anchorage behind the main key. It is 
easy of access both north and south of the island. It is three miles from 
the island to the shore. The south end of this sound is on some of the old 
maps called St. Joseph. From this to Tampa Bay, there is an inland boat 
channel. 

Tampa Bay, called by the Spaniards Espiritu Santo, is the largest bay 



' 24 BAYS. 

in the Gulf of Mexico. It lies between 27° 4' and 28° N. latitude, and 
between 5° 3' and 6° W. longitude from Washington. It is forty miles 
long, and in one place thirty-five wide, and has from eighteen to twenty 
feet water on the bar. It is easy of access and affords safe anchorage 
for any number of vessels. It receives Hillsborough River from the north; 
at the mouth of which is situated Cantonment Brock, a beautiful station, 
that does honor to the judgment and taste of the veteran General who 
formed it. On the S. E. fourteen miles from the Cantonment, Manate 
River enters, through a mouth near a mile in width, and in some places, 
ten feet deep. Indian and Alafia Rivers enter the bay, between the Hills- 
borough and Manate. Oyster River enters twenty miles below Manate. 
The eastern part of this bay, was, by the British called Hillsborough, and 
the little bay attached to the north side, Tampa. The little Tampa is an 
elliptical basin about ten miles in diameter, but very shoal. Numerous 
islands are scattered over this bay, especially on the western part. Among 
the most pleasant are Egmont, in the mouth of the harbor, Minnies, Long, 
and Borrd Islands. Fish and turtle are abundant ; in the S. W. part in 
particular, such numerous and extensive shoals of fish are met, as almost 
to impede a boat in the shoal waters. The Spanish fishermen keep a 
schooner here, to carry fish and turtle to the Havanna. From fifteen to 
twenty men are constantly employed in curing them and in convej'ing 
them away to market. Sea-fowl are also exceedingly numerous ; the 
beautiful flamingoes, in particular, appear in long files, drawn up on the 
beach, like bands of soldiers in red uniforms. The country around this 
extensive bay, is generally poor land, for the most part pine barrens, inter- 
spersed with small oak hammocks, and low savannas. On the south of 
Oyster River, however, there is an extensive hammock of rich land. Sim- 
ilar hammocks extend as far as Sarrazota Bay, with some interruptions. 

Sarrazota Bay extends from Tampa, fifteen miles down the coast. It is 
separated from the Gulf by an island of the same name. It is from three 
to five miles wide.. The north part, adjoining Tampa, is much filled with 
islands. It may be entered through Long Boat inlet, with eight feet water. 
This is between Long and Sarrazota Islands. The southward inlet, called 
Bocca Seca, has only four feet water on the bar. It is connected by a small 
creek with Palm Sound, but the natives usually haul over their canoes, across 
a hammock about twenty rods wide. On the east shore of this sound, there 
are extensive old fields, of rich land. The hammock is covered with live 
oaks and cane. The shore is rocky and high, the ruins of about fifteen old 
houses are seen among the grass and weeds. We found in 1828, in the 
old gardens, among luxuriant weeds, tomatas, lima beans, and many aro- 
matic herbs, perfectly naturalized. 



BAYS. 25 

Palm Sound extends seven miles behind Palm Island. It is about one 
fourth of a mile wide, but navigable only for small boats. Palm Bay ex- 
tends near ten miles, behind a peninsula connected to the main land on the 
south. Across this narrow isthmus there is a haulover, of about 100 yards. 
From the south part of Sarrazota Bay to Charlotte Harbor, the pine coun- 
try approaches near to the coast, is high rolling land, covered with tall 
pines, and has pleasant streams of pure water, running into these bays 
and into the sea. From this to Cleni Inlet, is about twelve miles. As 
the lagoon extends from this inlet north for several miles, a canal across 
the pine barren, of eight miles, would complete an inland communication 
from Tampa, and even from Wakasasse Bays, to Charlotte Bay. This 
could be easily accomplished, as there are several fine brooks crossing the 
space, which would supply sufficient water to a canal. 

Gasparilla Sound extends from Cleni Inlet to Charlotte Bay, a distance 
of six miles. It is about two miles wide. Cleni Inlet, between Cleni 
and Gasparilla Islands, has four feet water. Gasparilla Inlet, between 
Gasparilla and North Islands, has six feet water on the bar. From Bocca 
Grande to Carlos Bay may be twenty-five miles. It is full of islands, 
among which Pine is the largest. It lies eight miles south of Bocca 
Grande, which is the main channel ; it has fourteen feet water on the bar, 
and is easy of access. Macaco River enters twenty-five miles east of 
Bocca Grande. It is here two miles wide, and twelve feet deep. Peace 
River also joins the Macaco near the entrance of the bay. This river 
extends far to the north-east, is large and deep. Toampa Island lies 
five miles south of Bocca Grande. It is about a mile long, from east to 
west, is a rich shell hammock, and produces many tropical fruits, as cocoa 
nuts, limes, oranges, &c, but is badly cultivated. The proprietor is a 
stout, healthy, old white-headed Spaniard, very industrious ; carries on 
fishing to a great extent ; keeps two small schooners running to Havanna, 
with fish and turtle. His village is built on the west end of the island, and 
consists of from eighteen to twenty palmetto houses, mostly occupied by 
various branches of his extensive family. There are three other fishing 
establishments in the bay. Many of the islands in this bay are fertile, 
but the Spaniards and Indians who occupy them, cultivate very little land. 
A small quantity of corn, beans and melons satisfy them, as they live prin- 
cipally on fish, 

Carlos Bay is connected with Charlotte by Sanybal Sound. The deep- 
est channel is from the Gulf, between Moosa and Caloosa Islands. The 
bay extends fourteen miles into the country northwardly, and receives the 
Caloosahatche River from the N. E. The Caloosa Channel has twelve 
feet water on the bar, but the broad entrance east of Caloosa Island is 

4 



26 BAYS. 

shoal. Under the east end of the island there is deep water, and a good 
harbor against all but southerly winds. There is a large fishing establish- 
ment up the bay, in sight of Caloosa Island. 

The Caximba is a narrow sound lhat separates Isle Roman from the 
main. It is nine miles in length, and scarcely half a mile wide in any part. 
It is full of mangrove islands ; has six feet water on each bar. But where 
the tides meet the channel is very narrow, crooked, and muddy. Coasting 
vessels may easily pass through by employing one of the native pilots. 
There are several plantations near this Sound. That of John Durant, a 
native of Savannah, Georgia, lies on the south side, about a mile from the 
western inlet. Another, near the eastern inlet, is owned by a mulatto man. 
They all employ several native Indian families, to assist in cultivating the 
ground. The produce of the farms sell at a high price, to the fishing com- 
panies, who, in return, furnish thern with clothing, powder, lead, &c. 
Many birds are also caught by the Indians, and sent to the Havanna in 
neat willow cages. They make bird-lime from the juice of the Gum 
Elemi, which they call Gumbo-limbo. 

Gallivans or Delaware Bay is the nook formed east of Punta Longa or 
Cape Roman. From the north point of this bay, the Caximba enters and 
Gallivans River disembogues into the north east side. The north part of 
the bay, being filled with islands, separated by deep channels, its extent has 
not been explored. It affords perfect shell er for vessels drawing eight feet 
water. There is twelve feet sheltered from all winds except the south 
east. 

Richmond Bay is the broad space, between the Florida Keys and Cape 
Sable. It is open to the west, but sheltered on all other sides. The depth 
of water is about nine feet. The bottom is rock, with a thin coat of white, 
soft calcareous mud, like white-wash. There are many channels, which 
passing between the kej's, enter this bay, from various points, these are 
usually crooked and narrow and always about six feet deep. 

Sandwich Gulf extends from Key Largo to Rio Rattones, a distance of 
more than forty miles, and is generally about six miles wide. It is usually 
from seven to nine feet deep. There are many inlets into this bay from the 
Atlantic, the principal of which are Angel-fish, Black Caesars, Saunders, 
Fowey and White Inlets. All these have about six feet water on their 
bars. 

Among the Florida Keys, there are several small bays and sounds, which 
afford shelter for vessels bound to and from the Gulf of Mexico. The first 
is on the east side of Elliott's Key. It has eight feet water and there is an 
inlet in front of it, through the outward reef. 

t Before Key Tavernier, there is a harbor, in which, the Wreckers make a 
general rendezvous ; but the depth or extent of it is not known to us. 



BAYS. 27 

New Found Harbor lies west of the Honda Keys and is partially shel- 
tered by the outwejrd reefs. It has twenty feet water, which may be en- 
tered across the reef. 

The Harbor, on the west end of Key West has 24 feet water and is easy 
of access, but is exposed to the north and west winds. At the north east 
end of the island is Spanish Harbor ; it is safe for small vessels, drawing 
eight feet water. 

Among the reefs of the Dty Tortugus's, there is said to be an admirable 
harbor, sufficiently deep and capacious for Vessels of the line. All we 
know of it is, the report of Commodore Rodgers to our government, which, 
may be seen. 

On the eastern coast of the Peninsula, there are no Bays. The rivers 
and inlets afford harbors for coasting vessels. The first of these, above 
Cape Florida, is New River, which has six feet water on the bar. Jupiter 
Inlet is next, it has opened and closed so often, that it is impossible to know 
the depth of water. It has had five fathoms and at other times not one. 
This is the most southern entrance to Indian River. Just below Cape Ca- 
naveral is the main inlet to this river. It is little frequented and the depth 
of water on the bar has varied from seven to eleven feet. 

Musquito Inlet has nine feet on the bar, at low water. Vessels drawing 
eight feet may ascend Halifax River eight miles, and with six feet, may 
reach the Orange Grove twelve miles from the bar. The South Lagoon 
may be navigated about the same distance. After crossing the bar, the 
harbor is perfectly safe. The harbor of St Augustine is extremely similar 
to that of Musquito, and the North and Matanzas rivers are navigable on 
each side of the city, to about the same distance as the Halifax and Hills- 
borough. Small vessels and steam boats may enter the Matanzas Inlet 
and pass through the sound to St. Atgustine. 

The St. Johns River has ten feet water on the bar, and is navigable for 
vessels drawing eight feet, into the lakes George and Dunns, one hundred 
and fifty miles from the bar. Nassau River may be entered with eight feet, 

Fernandina Bay, at the mouth of the river St. Marys can receive vessels 
drawing twelve feet, and is entered with more safety, than any harbor on 
the southern coast. It is perfectly safe. During the destructive embargo and 
non-intercourse of Mr. Jefferson, this port was much frequented by foreign 
vessels, and became suddenly a place of much importance ; but it fell with 
the non-intercourse law. The surrounding country affords few objects of 
commercial concern. Should the canal, across the peninsula of Florida, 
be ever carried into effect, this bay is intended for the Depot of the produce 
transported across the country. The St. Marys enters this bay, fromthe' 



28 CAPES. 

west, navigable for large vessels one hundred miles. A navigable Lagoon 
connects it with the river St. Johns, and another with Savannah River, 
so that the advantages of this bay, in a commercial point of view are very 
great. 

CAPES. 

Cape St. Bias is situated in Washington count}*-, in latitude 29° 42' 
and longitude 8° 29' W. from Washington. It lies at the south end of St. 
Josephs bay. Its shoals extend more than twenty miles into the Gulf, in 
successive ridges. Vessels drawing ten feet water should keep three miles 
from this cape in good weather, and in southern swells still farther. The 
point is a low sand bank, and the pine forests discovered, are at least three 
miles north of the point. 

Cape St. George, the next in succession, lies in latitude 29° 52' and 
longitude 7° 56' W. It is in Gadsden county, on the south side of St. 
George Island, about five miles from the west end. It is not perceptible 
more than five miles at sea. 

South West Cape is also in Gadsden county in front of Oclockony Bay 
and is the S. E. end of James Island. There is no distinct point, but the 
shoals extend, in succession seven or eight miles, to the S. E. On this cape, 
the pine woods extend to the sea. Vessels bound to St. Marks should keep 
from five to seven miles S. E. of the cape, before they haul up to the 
north. 

Punta Longa, or Caye Roman, is situated in latitude 26° and longitude 
6° 46' W. It is the south point of a large island, and projects fifteen miles 
from the main land, and from a S. W. point a succession of sandy shoals 
extend fifteen miles farther, in a S. S. W. direction. Vessels drawing 
six feet water may avoid this cape, by passing through the Caximba and 
by a passage of nine miles, shun a dangerous voyage of sixty miles. 

Cape Sable is the most southward point of the peninsula. It is in laitude 
25° 4' N and 4° 10' W. longitude. It is called, on the Spanish charts, Punta 
Tanche. As the land terminates in three projections, each of which is some- 
what circular, it is difficult to designate the exact spot, for the Cape. Each 
of these projections are high and pleasant shell banks, extending back, in 
grass fields, called the Caloosa old fields. The reef of rocks, which has bari- 
caded the coast, from Appalache Bay, ends at the south side of the middle 
projection, and there causes, as the tide ebbs and flows, a very turbulent sea. 
The rock again projects from the shore, about four miles east of the cape, 
and leaving Richmond bay, a circular basin, it subtends the whole group of 
Florida Keys. 



ISLANDS. 29 

Sound Point is a very shoal projection, from the Island of the same name 
which lies in front of and on the S. E. side of Key Largo. Carysford reef is a 
corresponding projection of the opposite reef on the east side of Hawks chan- 
nel. Two thirds of the wrecks that happen on the southern coast, occur 
here, or within a short distance of this point. The coast is of the roughest 
reef rock, and covered, to some distance under water, with mangrove bush- 
es. Among these the waves have carried every possible kind of wrecked 
matter, broken ship timbers, spars, plank, shreds of canvas, cordage, old 
iron, glasses, crockery, &c. are piled in ruinous confusion, upon the man- 
groves. 

Gape Florida is the S. W. end of Key Biscayene. There is nothing 
in the situation, to justify the term, but custom has fixed it there. A very 
excellent lighthouse had been erected at this place and it marked the en- 
trance of Hawks channel, but is now burned down by the Seminoles. It 
stands in lattitude 25° 38' and west longitude 3° 13'. 

Cape Canaveral is the only remaining projection of any note on this 
coast. It is situated in front of Indian River, in latitude 28° 15' north, and 
west longitude 3° 22. From this cape, a shoal extends east eight miles. 
About five miles N. E. there is a reef of rocks usually bare ; the water is 
deep around them ; small vessels may safely run inside of them, but should 
keep at least three or four miles from the shore. 

ISLANDS. 

St. Rosa is a narrow sandy island extending from the month of Pensa- 
cola Bay, opposite to the Fort of Barrancas, to the Pass L' Este, a distance 
of 50 miles. It is about half a mile wide, and is conspicuous, for its pure 
white sand hills, which appear like drifted snow banks. It is very barren ; 
a few crooked live oaks and pitch pines, grow in spots, on the north side of 
the island ; while scrub oaks and yapon bushes, tangled with vines, form 
impene f rable thickets on the northern sides of the white sand hills. These 
are excellent shelters for deer, which are numerous. During winter, abun- 
dance of water fowl cover the fresh water ponds, which are found among 
the vallies. There is usually, a heavy surf, breaking on the south shore of 
the island; during storms, it is tremendous. Several vessels have been 
wrecked on this shore. A small fort and pilot house formerly stood on the 
west end of this island ; they are now in ruins. But the United States are 
erecting in their place a formidable fort. Opposite the mouth of St. An- 
drews Bay, there are three islands ; Sand, Hummock, and Crooked islands. 
The first is near three miles from the shore, and about a mile in circumfer- 
ence It produces a few bunches of tall grass (ueniola latifolia) and a pe- 
culiar sort of sea cress, excellent for sallad ; but a great portion of it is bar- 



30 ISLANDS. 

ren. Early in summer, it is wholly covered with the eggs of sea fowl. Be, 
tween this island and the shore, there is a narrow channel eight feet deep 
the rest of the space is shoal. 

Hummock Island commences, a mile S. E. of Sand Island, and extends, 
parallel with the coast, about six miles. It is quite narrow and produces 
nothing but grass, sea cress and purslain. A ridge of low sand hills skirt 
the western side. The main channel, into St. Andrews, runs from the Gulf 
directly to the west side of this island, near the centre, then passes along 
the island to the north end. Then passes close to the N. E. end of Sand 
Island, into the centre of the bay. On Gauld's chart, the west point of St. 
Andrews is made to extend to the south end of Hummock Island, and 
Crooked Island is alone marked, as separate from the shore. It is not im- 
probable, that these two islands have, lately, been separated from the point. 
The sound, behind this island, forms an excellent harbor, easy of access, 
from either end. There is eighteen feet water on the bar. 

Crooked Island lies a mile south of the former. Its north east end ap- 
proaches near to the main shore, but there is a deep channel between. It is 
about as long as the former, but juts out into the Gulf in form of a crescent. 
It is narrow at each end, but half a mile wide in the centre, where it is cov- 
ered with a grove of pine trees. Between the south end of this island and 
Cape False there is 8 feet water. ^ 

St. Vincent Island bounds Appalachicola Bay, on the west. Its form is 
triangular : the north and west sides are each about ten miles long and the 
eastern, from five to six. It is thickly covered with timber, lofty pines shade 
the sea coast ; while the eastern side is diversified with palms, live oaks and 
magnolia, scattered over the grassy surface, which give it the appearance of 
a fine park, rather than a lonely uninhabited island. A charming stream of 
fresh water, enters the bay from the centre of the east side. The north 
shore is broken by large marshes and Lagoons. 

St. George's Island is about forty miles long, and from one half, to two 
miles wide. Its west end is opposite to, and eight miles distance from, the 
mouth of the Appalachicola River. For about four miles its direction is E. 
by S.; it then bends N. E. The eastern end is about three miles from the 
main shore, and about the same distance from Dog Island. Its southern 
shore is thrown up in two or three sharp parallel ridges of yellowish brown 
sand, in some places forty feet high. The centre is usually covered with 
pine forests, among which are small hammocks of live oak and cedar. The 
northern shore is indented with bays, marshes and lagoons. This side of 
the island seems to be increasing. The east end is much washed by the 
seas. It is low and barren. 



ISLANDS. 31 

Dog Island lies in the same direction and about the same distance from the 
shore, as St. George's, and is similar to it, in surface and productions. It is 
about seven miles long and one wide. There is an excellent harbor at the 
north east end, which will admit vessels drawing ten feet water. 

James Island lies inland, behind Dog Island. It is formed by a branch 
of the Oclockony, which leaving the head of that bay runs S. W. and 
enters New River, four or five miles from the coast. The island thus cut 
off, is about twenty miles long, and from three to six wide. Alligator Har- 
bor is a small bay in the S. E. point of the island. The land is poor, cov- 
ered with pines and palmettos, and broken by ponds of water. The east 
end is covered with extensive marshes. The S. E. point is called South 
West Cape. 

There are several islands of considerable extent, formed by the several 
outlets of Suwanne River. The soil on them appears to be rich alluvion. 
They are sprinkled over with cedars, palms, and live oaks. A Mr. Bradley 
began a settlement on one of them, but left it on account of sickness. 

The N. E. part of Wakasasse Bay is filled with islets called the Fresh 
Water Keys , being situated in front of the estuaries of the Suwanne 
and Wakasasse Rivers. Many of these are pleasant and rich little spots, 
and there is plenty of fish and turtle among them. These islets are but 
imperfectly explored. 

Still farther south are the Cedar Keys, an extensive group jutting far 
into the Gulf. They are very rocky, and separated by innumerable salt 
creeks. The cedars and other trees on these islets are small and sparse. 

Opposite Turtle Mount there are three beautiful oval islands, about a 
mile apart, and the same distance from the shore. The longest is more 
than a mile in length, and all of them are well timbered. 

Between the Cedar and Anclote Keys the Mangrove Islands are nume- 
rous, but usually small. Whenever an islet is separated at some distance 
from the others it is uniformly selected by some nation or tribe of birds. 
They load every branch almost to breaking. Gulls, curlews, and cranes 
often associate on the same key, but the cormorants, pelicans, fish-hawks, 
man-of-war birds, and eagles, live by themselves, admitting no associates. 
On apprdaching these aviaries of nature, the whole tribe rises in mass, and 
wheel round your head with loud screams, and are in some instances so 
numerous as to darken the air. 

Anclote Key is situated about ten miles from Ouithlacouche River. It 
is three miles from the coast, about one mile long, of an oval form, and has 
ten feet water all round it, with good anchorage. 

Joe's Key is two miles long, lies half a mile south of Anclote. 

Helley's Keys are a range of sandy islands extending in front of Toco- 



32 ISLANDS. 

bagos, or St. Joseph's Bay. From Tocobagos to Tampa there is a boat 
channel behind these keys, but at some places it is very shoal at low tide. ■ 

Egmont Island lies in the entrance of Tampa Bay. It is merely a sand 
bank about a mile in length. 

Mullet Keys lie north of the channel. There are several of them ; one 
is two miles long. 

Minnies Island is also north of the channel, ten miles from Egmont. 
On this island there is plenty of fresh water. 

Bamaby is a sandy key, south of Egmont. 

Long Island closes the entrance of Tampa Bay on the south. It is 
seven miles long and divides the north part of Sarrazota Bay from the Gulf. 
Like most other of the islands on the coast, it is covered with mangroves. 

Oyster Islands are a group that divide Tampa from Sarrazota Bay. 
Many of these are high, and rich in fruits and flowers. The hawey, a 
minute fig, is first seen on these islands ; farther south they are abundant. 

Sarrazota Island lies south of Long Island, and is separated from it by 
Long Boat Inlet. Several small islets are grouped around the south end. 
These are bounded by Rio Seco, which terminates Sarrazota Bay on the 
south. 

Palm Island is formed by the waters of Sarrazota Bay and Palm Sound. 
The Indians usually hauled their canoes over the south point of this island 
to save a long circuit at low water. There is a considerable hammock on 
this island, of a good quality, especially near the south end. It is several 
miles in extent. 

Cleni is the first island in front of Charlotte Bay. It is a mile long, low 
and sandy. A narrow inlet separates it from Gasparilla. 

Gasparilla is the second island proceeding south. It is six miles long, 
but narrow ; it has beautiful groves of gum elemi, and clumps of ovino 
trees. The east side is in many places covered with havveys. 

Crooked Island lies on the north side of Bocca Grande, and is separated 
from Gasparilla by an inlet of the same name. 

Round Island is on the south side of Bocca Grande, which is the main 
entrance to Charlotte Bay. 

Capativa extends about seven miles down the coast. It was, with Sany- 
bal, formerly occupied by a tribe of Muspa Indians. 

Sanybal is twelve miles long, and about two miles wide. It has on its • 
margin some narrow hammocks. A Company from New- York, in the 
winter of 1833, surveyed a town at the S. E. end of the island. One ele- 
gant, house was built and several smaller ones, but at this time, 1837, it is 
nearly deserted. 

Caloosa is the last of this chain of islands ; it lies partly in front of 






ISLANDS. 33 

Carlos Bay. It is about five miles long, and from one to two wide. It is 
a beautiful, wild, solitary place ; it is diversified with thick groves of heavy 
timbered hammocks, and broad grass savannas, sprinkled with flowers, 
ovino and cotton shrubs, entwined with grape and nickernut vines. The 
perennial cotton shrub we first discovered on this island. 

Pine Island is the largest inside of the bay. It consists principally of 
high pine land ; it is five miles long and two wide. On its border there 
are some narrow hammocks. It is situated on the east side of the bay, 
about ten miles south of Bocca Grande, and has on the north end a 
considerable fishing establishment. 

Toanme is situate five miles south of Bocca Grande, in the heart of the 
bay. It is one mile long, from east to west, and half a mile wide. It is 
the seat of the Calde family. Their village consists of near twenty pal- 
metto houses, and stands on the south west point of the Island. This 
Island is a high shell bank, covered with large timber. A small portion of 
the land is under cultivation. The inhabitants Uving principally on fish 
turtle, and coonti ; the last, they bring from the main. Here are several 
cocoanut trees in bearing, orange, lime, papayer, hawey, and hickok plum. 
They raise cuba corn, peas, mellons, &c. I am told that most of the 
Islands in this bay, are nearly as fruitful as Toampe. They are innumera- 
ble. The Muspa Indians, once a numerous tribe, formerly inhabited these 
wild haunts. 

Isle Roman is separated from the main by the Caximba. It is about 
thirty miles south east of Carlos. It is near fifteen miles from north to 
south, and ten to twelve from east to west. The north end is much cut up 
with creeks and lagoons, but contains some extensive hammocks, and old 
Indian fields. Three or four good plantations are under cultivation. That 
occupied by John Durant, a native of Savanna, lies about a mile from the 
western coast, the white ovster clifts of which, are seen halfway through 
the Caximba. Corn, peas, and mellons, are the principal productions. 
The interior Of the island is pine barren. The south point of the island is 
the Cape Acies, or Punta Longa, of the Spanish charts, and the Cape 
Roman of the British ; it terminates in dangerous shoals, which extend 
fifteen miles into the gulf. 

The Caximba islands are extremely numerous, and but little known ; one 
on the north of the main inlet, must be five or six miles in length. Jewfish 
island lies about two miles from the western entrance, on the north side of the 
channel ; it is often visited by fishing parties of Spaniards, who admire the 
fish. The group extends as far east as the Gallivan river. 

Musquito Key lies at the mouth of St. Mary's river. It is three miles in 

5 



r 



34 ISLANDS. 

length, and apparently contains good land. Many smaller islands are 
scattered about it. 

Rocky Keys are a considerable cluster of islands, above the mouth of 
Hujelos river. These islands are, for the most part, formed of curious co- 
ralines, some of them have beautiful hammocks on their shores. 

Pavilion Key lies inside of the bass bank, and is marked as a point, of 
land on the old charts. 

Racoon Island, is also marked as a long point. It is .surrounded by a 
cluster of islets. 

The Florida Keys, are altogether an extraordinary archipelago of islands 
and reefs. They commence in latitude 25° 35' on the Atlantic side of the 
peninsula, and from thence, extend in a group which describes the arc of a 
circle, bending westwardly, two hundred miles. They end in the Tortu- 
gas shoals, in latitude 24° 32' and longitude 6° 10' west. It has been 
made a question, whether these keys are fragments of the continent, torn 
by the abrasion of the tide : or whether they are additions constantly increa- 
sed, by the labors of the Zoophite. It is not my intention to argue this 
question, but to state the few observations I have made among thene. 

Key Biscayno is the most northerly of the group. It is about seventy 
miles N. E. from Cape Sable. It is seven miles long, and two broad. It 
produces many mangroves, some hammocks on the north side, and much 
sand on the south. A lighthouse is located on the west end, where it 
is called, but without any reason, Cape Florida. The light house is now 
burned by the Indians. Here is plenty of fresh water. Sandwich Gulf 
spreads in a sheet six miles wide, on the north, separating it from a rocky 
coast. Bear Cut on the east, is a mile wide, and six feet deep. Here 
commences the passage, called on the English charts, Hawks channel ; at 
this island terminates the silicious sand, so abundant in East Florida. 
The Fowey rocks lie about two miles S. E. of this island, and form the 
commencement of the reef, that shuts Hawk channel from the sea. This 
channel affords safe navigation, for vessels drawing twelve feet : it is never 
less than fifteen feet deep, and is from four to six miles wide. 

Soldier Keys are three small islands, in a row, six miles south of Biscayno. 

The Paps are a small cluster of islets, two miles S. E. of the Soldiers. 

Castor and Pollux are two small keys, lying west of the Paps, and east 
of Saunders Cut. 

Elliot's Key lies south of Saunders Cut ; it is eight miles long, and three- 
fourths of a mile wide. It is rocky, but has a rich soil. The eastern side 
shows to advantage ; is covered with luxuriant grass and herbs, among 
which the inaguy, the queen of plants, raises her pendulous white flowers, 
high in the air. Scattering ovino and mastic trees, give it the appearance 



ISLANDS. 35 

of a plantation, and one is surprised to see no buildings, or animals, in a spot 
so flourishing. The west side of the island is thickly covered with wood. 
On the east side of the island there is a safe harbor, of eight feet water. 
Caesars Creek washes the south end of the island. 

Jennings Island is about one mile long, and lies between Caesars and 
Angelfish creeks. 

Largo Keys are a chain of islands, near thirty miles in extent, and in 
width very unequal, from half a mile to four miles. The south shore is 
very rocky ; most of it is covered with heavy timber, but so entangled with 
vines, and so infested by musquitoes, that few have proved hardy enough 
to explore its recesses. In many places, it has both black and red loam 
to a considerable depth, which might undoubtedly be cultivated to great 
advantage. It produces a great 'number of wild fruits and flowers, which 
flourish most luxuriantly. About half a mile up Tavemiers Creek, which 
enters the island below Sound Point, which is said to extend across to Sand- 
wich Gulf, there is a small plantation commenced by Capt. Walton, plan- 
ted with fruit trees. Sound Island lies in front of Tavernier Creek ; the 
extreme ends are called North and South Sound Points. Behind these points 
there are harbors sufficient to shelter the wrecking vessels. Sound Key 
has no fresh water. 

Carysford reef commences opposite the north end of Largo and ends just 
below N. Sound Point. The S. E. end of Carysford, is dry at low water. A 
deep inlet passes through the reef here, the current setting towards Key 
Tavernier. A narrow creek terminates Key Largo, and divides it from 
Long Island. A light ship is stationed behind Carysford reef, a little to 
the east of N. Sound Point. 

Key Tavernier lies in front of the south end of Largo. It is small and 
low. It is remarkable only, as the rendezvous of all the wreckers. A I 
small harbor affords shelter for their vessels, and the situation is important 
only, as it commands a view of Carysford reef, the most dangerous part of 
the coast. From this spot the wreckers scour the reefs and keys in every 
direction, sending daily north and south, three or four of their fleet, to the 
extreme points of the Florida Keys ; so that vessels in distress, usually 
receive offers of assistance within a few hours. Numbers of vessels are thus 
saved from total loss every season. Doubtless these hardy veterans of the 
deep, have at some times, imposed on those whom they proposed to benefit. 
But we happen to know that much ingratitude has also been practised by 
those who have been saved from ruin by the wreckers. At all events, an 
excellent court is established at Key West, where all claims of salvage are 
legally and expeditiously adjusted, and there is no necessity for unfortunate 
masters of vessels to submit their causes to the arbitration of interested men. 



S, 



36 ISLANDS. 

Key Tavernier is succeeded by Key Rodrigues ; it lies four or five miles 
west of and opposite to the channel, between Largo and Long Island ; it is 
small and of little value. Here terminated the surveys of the celebrated 
English Engineer, Gauld. His surveys of the coast and Florida Keys, 
can scarcely ever be improved. Tt is a great pity that the policy of war 
should have put a stop to his labors, that were equally valuable to Ame- 
rica and England. 

New Mattacumbe is four miles long, and about two miles wide. It has a 
broken rocky surface, but is clothed with a forest of hard woods, vines and 
plants, some of the latter very beautiful. Many kinds of fruit might be cul- 
tivated advantageously at this place. The wells of fresh water on the east 
end of this island are inexhaustable. They appear to be natural fissures 
in the madrepore rock, placed there by a Bountiful Providence, to supply 
the navies that have, time out of mind, frequented these latitudes. 

Big Lignum Vitae Key is about one mile long, and half a mile wide, is 
situated behind the channel that separates Mattacumbe and Long Islands, 
and about two miles distant. It contains more good land than any other 
island in this part of the group : part of it is under cultivation, the rest is 
covered with hard timber. 

Indian Key, on some of the old charts called Matanzas, was distin- 
guished, by the destruction of a large crew of Frenchmen by the Caloose 
Indians. The vessel of the French, was wrecked on the reefs out side of 
this island, and the crew only escaped shipwreck to be massacred by the 
savages. It. is one mile south of New Matacumbe, and contains about seven 
acres, the whole a Madrepore rock, in the clefts of which a few mangroves 
and flowering shrubs originally took root, and afforded roosts for innume- 
rable variegated perewinkles that crawled over the branches. 

At this time much of the island is improved as a garden, the rocky sur- 
face being covered by a bed of mould drawn up from the channel. Several 
buildings ornament the island ; a superb Hotel overtops them all, erected by 
the enterprising proprietor, Mr. Housman. Large stores are supported 
here principally by the wrecking business. This little island is becoming 
a fashionable resort for invalids from the north, the climate being healthy and 
pleasant, and the insects less numerous than in most of the keys. 

Indian Key is 75 miles south west from Cape Florida, and 75 north east 
from Key West. 

Old Mattacumbe is five miles long, and two wide. In surface it is similar 
to New Mattacumbe, but there is a greater quantity of good land on this 
than on the other island. This island was the last place of refuge of the 
Muspa and Caloose Indians, who formerly inhabited the eastern shore of 
the Mexican Gulf. 



ISLANDS. 37 

The space between the Mattacumbe and the continent, is sprinkled over 
with small islets, called Lignum Vitae Keys. 

Viper Key, called on different charts, Bivora and Vivora, is five miles 
long, and from half to a mile wide. It is of a triangular form, and is much 
cut up with salt ponds and lagoons. On the shores are several hammocks 
of hard woods, but so narrow as to be scarcely fit for cultivation. There 
is a pretty harbor at the east end, sheltered by small keys. 

Duck Key is a narrow rocky islet, containing some fine salt ponds. Mr. 
Howe, from Charleston, made a considerable establishment on the island 
for the purpose of making salt, but having died some time since, the project 
has been abandoned. It is about two miles long. 

The Vacas or Cow Keys are ten or twelve in number, and extend about 
fifteen miles in length. Some ©f them are four miles in length, while others 
are scarcely half a mile long ; some are covered with tall pines, some with 
hammock trees, and some almost entirely with grass. On the north side 
of the group they are generally rocky, and bear many small palmetto trees. 
There are from ten to fifteen families scattered over them. Knights Key, 
the south west key of this cluster, has a good house and cleared field, that 
appears to great advantage from the water. Most of these keys possess 
good springs and wells of fresh water, and turtle are abundant in the neigh- 
borhood. 

Sombrero is a crooked little island, covered with fragments of wrecks, 
with clumps of mangrove bushes. It lies five miles south west from 
Knights Key, and about the same distance from Cabbage Island, out upon 
the edge of the reef. Here there is a broad channel extending from the 
Atlantic, between the keys into Richmond Bay. It is usually ten feet deep. 

Cabbage Island is the longest, of a considerable cluster of islets, called the 
Honda Keys. It is two miles long, and two-thirds of a mile wide : it is co- 
vered with tall cabbage trees interspersed with fruits and flowers, and ap- 
pears rich and pleasant, but we did not explore the interior of the island. 
The Honda Bay lies in lat. 24° 35' and has from two and a half to five 
fathoms of water. It is well sheltered and safe from all winds. There is a 
small, but pleasant settlement on the east side of the harbor, with a well 
of good water. 

This cluster of keys extend fifteen miles west, and about ten in a north 
direction, over an extensive coraline shoal ; they are extremely numerous 
and separated by innumerable narrow channels. They are generally 
clothed with a dense vegetation of trees, shrubs, herbs and grass, sprinkled 
with various kinds of flowers. The trees of the hammocks are overtopped 
with a kind of vine, whose leaves spread over the limbs like a green carpet ; 
the seaside grape, different kinds of plumbs, and custard apples are frequently 



38 ISLANDS. 

found in the hammocks. They are of all sizes, the largest extend ten miles 
north and south, and three to four in width, and from this size they are 
found not half an acre in extent. The northern points of this cluster are 
covered with tall pines, somewhat sparsely scattered over the surface of the 
rocky soil. Among these islands there are numerous salt ponds and la- 
goons, to and from which the tide flows and ebbs with great rapidity. 

Samba Keys are six in number, or rather one great Key, the surface of 
which is cut by the currents into six parts. They extend about five miles 
in each direction ; they are however merely the shells of islands of which 
the centres want filling up. The shores are high and look promising, but 
they immediately fall back into salt ponds. 

Key West is the next island in succession. It is seven miles long and 
two wide. The east end is divided by a channel through which the tide ra- 
pidly flows into an extensive salt pond that covers one third of the island. 
The west end of the island however is solid ground, based on a limestone 
rock, over which the zoophite has spread a few feet of coralines, and the thick 
forests have on the top of both a rich soil. Only a small part of this is cleared 
and cultivated in gardens, where the pine apple bananna plantain and 
various other tropical fruits reward the toil of the planter, and the stately 
cocoanut raises his tall head abundant in rich fruit and broad expanding 
leaves, supplying at once necessity and ornament. The whole island is on its 
surface very stony, though covered with a dense forest of various valuable 
trees. This part of the island has generally a rich soil of red or black loam. 

Wells of Fresh water may be obtained in any part of the island by cut- 
ting through the limestone rock from six to ten feet deep. The rock is a 
deposite of lime without grit, and so soft that it may be cut with an axe. 
Many of the small ponds, at the west end of the island, have been trenched 
so that the tide ebbs and flows through them ; this has rendered the place 
more healthy. Improvements have been principally confined to the west 
end of the island, where the relinquishment of Congress, to three leagues 
square, has been located by the proprietors. This grant will cover all the 
good land on the island. The harbor is at the north west, which is entered 
through a channel of four fathoms of water. The best anchorage is on the 
east side, where there are wharves and large ware houses for the accomo- 
dation of trade. There are some coral banks near the mouth of the har- 
bor. The N. W. winds, at some periods, affect vessels moored here ; they 
are safe from all other quarters. A shoal extends from the south side of the 
island ; it is covered with a perfect forest of marine plants, infinitely various 
in size and texture. Southern storms sometimes tear these from the rocky 
bottom and drive them in heaps upon the shore, to ferment, and sometimes 
to create very unpleasant vapors, and are supposed to affect the health of 



ISLANDS. 39 

the town. Some experiments have been made on the salt ponds, situated 
in the heart of the island, which have been successful in producing salt, of 
a good quality. The bottom of these ponds are uniformly of limestone, but 
they require to be smoothed, in most places, before they can be advanta- 
geously raked. A canal has been cut from the north shore into the prin- 
cipal pond. We have heard no reason assigned, except a want of enterprize, 
why the salt ponds of this key, should not. be as productive, as those on 
the Bahama's. Key West has been greatly benefitted by the trade car- 
ried on in wrecked goods, which are usually deposited here for sale. In 
other respects it is a superior situation for trade, and in time of war its har- 
bor will be of vast importance. It is said to be capable of defence, at a 
reasonable expense. The original name of the Island was Cayo Huesso. 
It was for many years occupied by the Calde family, as a fishing establish- 
ment. They abandoned it for the island of Toampi, in Charlotte harbor, 
which they now occupy. The first American settlement made on Key 
West was in April, 1822. 

The West India, squadron commanded by Commodore Porter, was station- 
ed here, from April 1823 to Oct. 1826. And the Mexican squadron under 
the same commander, was stationed here afterwards. It is at this time in- 
habited by about fourteen hundred souls. 

The Mangrove Islands, or Mule Keys, are small islets, scattered over a 
coral reef, that extends fifteen miles west of Egmont channel. This reef is 
about eight miles wide. Most if not all these islets are covered with water 
at high tides. It is bounded on the west by the grand entrance. It is 
from four to five miles wide and from seven to ten fathoms deep. 

The Marquesas are two small keys about three miles south west of the 
Entrance Key, and are on the same reef, which extends nearly twenty 
miles west. On the west end of this reef, the silicious sand again appears 
in shifting banks. \ 

The Entrance Key lies west of the grand entrance. It is crooked like 
a half moon. It is five or six miles long and in some places near a mile 
wide. 

The Tortugas Keys are eleven in number, situated on a coral reef, which 
is about fifteen miles in extent. This reef is about ninety miles west of 
Cape Sable, sixty five miles west of Key West, and one hundred miles N. W. 
from Havanna. Of this group, a few of the largest are about three feet 
above the common tides. Seven of them are covered with mangrove bush- 
es and bastard lignumvitae. The smaller ones are covered with herbs and 
grass. The S. W. Key, though one of the smallest, is most important to 
be known, because it ends the chain of Florida Keys. A reef of coral rock 
extends a quarter of a mile S. W. from it. North of this is a long sandy 



40 ISLANDS. 

key. Under the lee of this there is good anchorage, about a quarter of a mile 
from the shore. The best harbor is near Rush Key ; this is sheltered from the 
sea by a large reef of rocks and a flat shoal, and is quite smooth even in a 
gale. There is eighteen feet water close to the bank. Three broad chan- 
nels lead to this harbor, which is capacious enough for a large fleet. The 
channels among these keys abound with fish and turtle, but they afford 
neither fresh water nor wood, except small bushes, and are important, only 
as a harbor. 

Five or six miles west of the Tortugas, there is a large bank of coral 
rock and white patches of sand. These extend three or four miles west 
and north, and have from six to twelve fathom water. From a vessel they 
appear very shoal, but are not dangerous. 

The Florida Kej^s are sheltered from the sea by a coral reef that extends 
near two hundred miles in length, and at a distance of from three to seven 
miles, forming a channel between it and the keys, usually threy fathoms 
deep. This channel affords a safe passage for coasting vessels in smooth 
water all the way to the Mangrove Islands, where it ends. From this 
which on the English cherts is called Hawks Channel, several other 
channels branch off northwardly through'the keys into the Gulf west of 
Cape Sable. The first has only eight feet water, it enters at Bahia Honda 
and winds northwardly round the Pine Islands into Richmond Bay. The 
second passes the west end of Key West and diminishes in depth to twelve 
feet where it enters into Richmond Bay. Coasting vessels drawing eight 
or nine feet, usually run through this pass, but strangers should take a pilot 
at Key West. On the English charts this pass is called Egmont Chan- 
nel. 

Bocca Grande is a pass between the Mangrove and the Marquesas Keys. 
It is about fifteen miles west of Key West. It is usually three miles wide, 
and has six or seven feet water. There is a middle ground with patches 
of coral rock, but they have on them from two and a half to three feet 
water. 

There is a broad channel between the Marquesas and the Tortugas, 
with fifteen fathoms water ; but the eastern side, next the Marquesas, 
has patches of coral, and banks of quicksand, in some places not more 
than from five to twelve feet under water. 

In all these channels there is good anchorage, and the bottom can 
be clearly seen from the mast of a vessel in clear weather. The water 
is always of a light color within the reefs. 

The reef ends directly south of the west end of the Marquesas. It is 
here about three miles wide, with five fathoms water. Proceeding east- 
wardly it soon becomes narrower, but more shoal. It is here about four 



ISLANDS. 41 

miles from the keys. The first key on the reef is about nine miles S. 
S. W. from Key West. It is called Sand Island, and has a revolving 
light. Four miles west of this, there is a patch of rocks ; about two miles 
east there is another patch ; from this there .is from two to three fath- 
oms for about five miles east, but there is four and a half fathoms on 
the reef, opposite to the west end of Key West. To enter, bring the 
light on Key West to bear about N. N. W. ; after passing the reef, run 
west so as to leave the light three-fourths of a mile on the right hand, 
then run close round the N. W. point of the island into the harbor. 

Proceeding eastward on the reef to bring the east end of Key West N. 
W. about seven miles, there are three small sandy keys called Samboes. 
The reef here becomes narrow; between the two west keys there is a 
channel of four fathoms, and between the two eastern ones another chan- 
nel of three fathoms. 

For ten miles east of the Samboes, which are sandy islets, the reef 
spreads to four miles wide, and is very shoal, having at some seasons bare 
patches of rock ; but opposite Newfound Harbor the reef is about three- 
fourths of a mile wide. Here was situated Loo Key, but it is washed 
away ; some reefs of rocks, however, remain. About a mile west of these 
rocks, there is a fair channel of four fathoms water. To the east for three 
miles there is about sixteen feet water ; it then deepens for five miles to 
three, four, and five fathoms. The reef runs pretty straight past Bahia 
Honda ; it is about three miles from the keys. 

Key Sombrero is the easternmost islet on the reef. It is situated six or 
seven miles S. E. from Bahia Honda, and four miles S. W. from Knight's 
Key, the western key of the Vaccas group. It is but a patch of rock, cov- 
ered with a few r.angroves and pieces of wreck. From Sombrero to the 
west end of Old Mattacumbe the reef is broken and irregular in breadth 
and depth. There are patches of coral rocks, some under and some above 
water. Seven or eight miles off the east end of Vaccas, there are several 
bad ones. Off Bivoris there are more, some near the surface, others deep- 
er, off the west end of Old Mattacumbe. At the east end of this key 
there is a good harbor for coasting vessels. Indian Key is passed close to 
the east side, where there are convenient wharves constructed. South- 
west from this last key about three miles, is the Alligator shoal, where one 
of our sloops-of-war was wrecked. In this shoal there is only four feet 
water. 

Opposite Key Rodrigues the reef has only about seven feet water, and 
is three miles from the islands. Eastward of this the coral rocks increase, 
and the reef is often broken by channels of deep water. There is one, in 

6 



42 ISLANDS. 

particular, off Sound Island, of four fathoms, through which the tide rush- 
es with great velocity, especially in easterly storms. 

Opposite to the north end of Key Largo, commences Carysford reef, 
which extends to the; last mentioned channel. This is the most dangerous 
part of the whole reef. More vessels are wrecked here than on the whole 
coast besides. The coral rocks are sprinkled over this part of the. reef j 
many of them entirely above water. 

The reef extends nearly to the Soldier Keys, a little south of Biscay- 
no light ; it varies in breadth from one to two miles, and is covered with 
rocks. During fair weather vessels of any size may sail very near to this 
reef along its whole course. In the inside channel they should keep with- 
in a mile of the keys, as there are scattering coral rocks near the reef in 
many places, and the south side of the channel is most shoal. 

So far as I have been able to examine the extraordinary group of islands 
and reefs on our southern coast, I have found the soft calcareous rock to 
subtend the whole group. It is the same formation that encircles the Gulf 
of Mexico as far as the Appalache River, and I believe it to be the founda- 
tion of the whole peninsula. But the surface of every reef and island is 
covered with strata of zoophites of almost every description. Their labors 
are continual, and their work constantly progressing in an infinite variety 
of beautiful forms and colors. Two-thirds of the distance between the 
Mattacumbe islands and the main, is bare at low water, and presents a 
surface bristling with fresh coralincs, interspersed with young mangroves, 
from three inches to the size of trees. Little islets are rising above iie 
water, from one rod, to one, two, and three miles apart; some covered 
with bushes, others with a heavy growth of timber. Narrow channels, 
generally about six feet deep, wind among them in every direction, and 
many of these convey the tide through the reefs, from Hawks' Channel 
to Richmond Bay. The bottom of all these channels is formed of the soft 
limestone ; but it is usually covered with a white-wash of dissolved matter, 
about a foot thick. When stirred it gives to the water a milky tinge. 
These channels are the favorite haunts of the turtle, and almo^ every 
kind that live in the water may be found here. The inhabitants of the 
keys are generally adepts in the art of spiking them. One of these sports- 
men, who resides on Indian Key, is said to have spiked and secured sixteen 
in one day. Fish are not so numerous among the keys as they are about 
the 27° of latitude. There are, however, many kinds, and some of them 
highly prized ; and among which are the Jew-fish, porgy, hog-fish, and 
bass. There is also a species of cray-fish, which lives in holes among 
the coralines, of two or three pounds weight, which is excellent eating. 
It is variegated with beautiful colors, but wants the long claws of the 






ISLANDS. 43 

lobster. Large and beautiful concks are also numerous on some of the 
flats near Key West, where they are much used for soups. The most su- 
perb corals, in white clusters, are found on Long Reef. The delicate purple 
are principally confined to the Lignum-vitae Kej's. 

After passing the Florida Keys, Jupiter or Gomez Island next presents 
itself. It is twenty-five miles long and from half a mile to two miles wide. 
The eastern side presents a beach sloping off half a mile to low water 
mark. The ridge of sand hills is high ; behind this is a space covered with 
small oaks and palmettoes, while the western side terminates in ham- 
mock, and where the island throws projections into Hobe Sound, the ham- 
mocks are of such extent that they might form small farms, of excellent 
land. This side of the island is rocky, near the shore. Four miles from 
the south end, several fruit trees still remain, that were planted long since ; 
among these are cocoanuts, oranges, limes and plums. Several old fields 
indicate former settlements. Several dangerous reefs of rocks lie in front of 
this island. 

St. Lucia Island was formerly connected with Jupiter, and the whole 
was granted to Don Eusebius Gomez, on account of public services, ren- 
dered the goverment of the province. A few years since, the high waters 
of St. Lucia River, forced a passage through the coast at the place called 
the Gap, on the old charts, and about four miles south of the black rocks. 
In 1831 a mile in front of the north end of the island, was torn away by 
storms. This island is sixteen miles long, and extends from Jupiter, to 
Indian River inlet ; at the north end it is three miles broad. The surface of 
this Island is exactly similar to Jupiter. Indian River contains innumerable 
mangrove Islands, none of which are of much extent except — 

Meritts Island. It lies west of Cape Canaverel, and extends thirty miles 
in length, and is for a considerable distance more than two miles wide. 
The western side generally presents a surface of high rolling pine land. 
The south end is a reef of rocks of the Coquina species. Three miles from, 
the south end are fine looking hammocks. On the N. E. side the ham- 
mocks are more extensive, and a considerable plantation was began here, 
by a Mr. Merritt ; some fruit trees, of his planting, still remain. The eastern 
shore is mostly a low mangrove swamp. 

Bissets Island is a low narrow island, situated in the N. W. side of Hills- 
borough Lagoon. It is eight miles long, but contains very little good land. 
It is surrounded by hundreds of small islands, which fill the Hillsborough, 
from New Smyrna, to Ross's old plantation, a distance of fourteen miles. 
Some of these islets are high and pleasant, bearing palm trees and grass, 
but most of them are low and covered with mangroves. Dog Island is 
about two miles wide, and has a good soil. Gallups Island is nearly as large j 



44 ISLANDS. 

both islands have clusters of low oaks, and cabbage-palms. Hallifax river 
contains a similar group of small islands. 

Anastatia Island, extends from the little bar of Matanzas, to St. Augus- 
tine. It is twenty-one miles long, and two broad. It. was granted to Jesse 
Fish by the Spanish Government, except the Kings quarries and the 
site of the Tower. His heirs are still in possession. It contains a few 
hundred acres of excellent land, a part of which is improved in a fine orange 
grove. A lighthouse occupies the place of the old Spanish Tower. The 
quarries of Coquina stone are extensive ; they have furnished stone for the 
principal buildings of St. Augustine, as well as the Fort and sea wall, and 
other buildings ; and plenty still remains for all purposes, public and pri- 
vate. 

Fort George Island, extends from the mouth of St. John's River, to Tal- 
bot Inlet, about three miles, and it is more than half that width. It is the 
seat of Zephaniah Kingsley Esqr. It contains a good deal of excellent 
land, much of which is highly improved. 

Talbot Island extends from the Inlet to Nassau River, about, four miles. 
Messrs. Houston and Christopher, are the proprietors, who cultivate valu- 
able plantations on the island. 

Amelia Island extends from Nassau to St. Mary's River. It is fifteen 
miles long and four miles wide. A considerable proportion of the island is 
good land ; several extensive plantations were formerly cultivated on it. 
Fernandina, situated at the north-west end, was once the county seat of 
Nassau County. During the time of non-intercourse and embargo" laws, 
this town rapidly increased to a place of importance ; with those laws, it 
died a natural death. It may revive when our peninsular canal is carried 
into effect. 

The Two Sisters are two small, but fertile islands, situated on the north 
side of St. John's River, above Fort George Island. 

McDonald's Island is near the new canal, and is about three-fourths of 
a mile long. There is on it about fifty acres of excellent land. 

Tiger Island is situated in the mouth of St. Mary's River, opposite Fer- 
nandina. It is more than a mile in length, and of a crooked form. It is 
mostly marsh, with a few small hammocks. 

The marsh in front of St. Mary's extends four or five miles, but it con- 
tains no arable land. 

Nassau Island lies about eight miles from the mouth of the river ; is five 
or six miles in extent, but nearly all marsh. 

Fleming's Island extends from Doctors' Lake to Black Creek, a distance 
of twelve miles, on the west side of St. John's River ; the land is excellent 
and highly cultivated in Sea Island cotton, provisions, and cane. 



RIVERS. 45 

Murphy's Island is near the east side of the St. John's, directly above 
Dunn's Creek. It contains about two thousand acres of land ; a part of it 
is excellent hammock, the rest is pine land and swamp. 

Kingsley's, or Drayton's Island is situated at the north end of Lake 
George. It is three miles long and two wide. A considerable portion of 
the land is excellent. A small improvement has been kept up, for several 
years, near the north end. It is beautifully situated opposite the outlet of 
the lake, and will, at some time, become a delightful plantation. 

RIVERS. 

The Perdido forms the western boundary line between Alabama and 
Florida. It rises in Alabama, about thirty miles above the Florida line. 
It is navigable about seven miles above the bay, to some saw-mills. It is a 
noble mill stream, and its banks are covered with superior yellow pine tim- 
ber. 

The Connecuh rises in .the south-east part of Alabama. Its general 
course is S. W. till it meets the Escambia River, near the north line of the 
Territory. It there loses its name in the Escambia, which is a much 
smaller stream. Here it turns a S. E. course, and enters the north-west 
end of Escambia Bay, through several deep channels. Its principal tribu- 
tary streams are the Sepulgas, Murder Creek, and the Big and Little Es- 
cambia rivers. The lands on the borders of this river are rich, but are 
often overflowed, which renders planting on the river bottoms a hazardous 
employment. In the autumn agues and fevers prevail, on the low grounds. 

Where there is clay enough in the soil, to form good embankments, the 
waters might be leveed off, and the land would be equal to any in the 
world. 

Black Water River is only about fifty miles long, but is navigable for 
boats, near twenty miles. It is narrow and crooked, but deep, and is a fine 
mill stream.. It empties into a bay of the same name which is attached 
to Yellow Water Bay. It is full of Islands, and about seven miles long. 
Above the bay, it receives Cold Water Creek from the west. These waters 
generally, rise from fine springs on the borders of a good farming country, 
called the Pine Level. 

Yellow Water River rises in Covington county, Alabama. It runs a 
course of ninety miles and enters the N. E. side of Yellow Water Bay, 
through several mouths. It receives, in its course, Shoal River, from the 
S. E. the principal branches of which are Titi and Pond branches. It is 
navigable for boats forty miles, to Barrows Ferry. The Aliqua River rises 
in the Knobs of Walton county, and after a course of about twenty-five 
miles, enters the north side of Chactawhatche Bay. It is navigable to 



46 RIVERS. 

Vaughns, fifteen miles from its junction with the bay. This river is formed 
suddenly from large springs, some of them large enough for mills. 

Chactawhatche River rises in Pike county, Alabama, and after a south- 
ern course, of one hundred and fifty miles, enters the east end of Chactaw- 
hatche Bay. It is navigable for boats, about eighty miles. At the north 
line of Florida, it receives Pea River from the west; the latter is the 
largest and longest stream. Uche Creek enters, about iwenty-five miles 
from the mouth, and Sandy Creek about forty miles, both from the west ; and 
Holmes Creek from the east, as well as Big Barren and Pond Creeks. 
Holmes Creek is navigable to the Big Spring at all times and to Shackle- 
fords landing, fifteen miles higher, at most seasons. 

Econfina River rises in Washington county, south and east of Oak Hill, 
and after a course of thirty miles, enters the north arm of St. Andrews Bay. 
It is navigable to the Natural Bridge, fifteen miles from its mouth. Below 
the Natural Bridge, it receives the waters of Hamblys spring, and a number 
of extraordinary fine springs burst into the west side of this river, for three 
or four miles. The lands on its banks are generally of a superior quality; 
and at the same time perfectly healthy. Bear Creek is a navigable branch 
which enters the Econfina, from the east, four miles from its mouth. This 
river abounds in trout of a superior quality. 

The Wetappo River rises in Washington county, west of the Chipola, 
and after pursuing a very crooked S. W. course about twenty miles, it 
turns suddenly to the west, where it receives the S. E. branch, and five 
miles farther, enters the east end of the east arm of St. Andrews Bay. This 
river is usually twenty feet deep, but at its entrance into the bay, the *vater 
is not more than four feet. The S. E. branch extends within seven miles 
of the Chipola River, and is deep enough for boats of any description. It 
is a superior stream for fish, trout in particular. It is through the S. E. 
branch of this stream, that it is contemplated to connect the waters of the 
Appalachicola River and St. Andrews Bay. 

Appalachicola River is formed by the junction of the Chattahooche and 
Flint Rivers, about one hundred miles from the Gulf of Mexico. 

The Chattahooche River, rises near the corners of the four states, of Ten- 
nessee, South Carolina, Georgia and Alabama, and strikes the north line of 
Florida, at 31st degree of north latitude. About twenty-one miles below 
this, it is joined by the Flint. The latter river rises in De Kalb county in 
Georgia, and pursues a course, nearly south, to its junction with the Chat- 
tahooche. Vessels drawing eight feet water can ascend to the Forks, a 
distance of one hundred miles. The Chattahooche is navigable for Steam- 
boats to Columbus. The Flint may be navigated, about forty miles, to Bain- 
bridge. It receives the Chipola thirty-three miles from its mouth. This 



RIVERS. 47 

branch vises in Richmond and Henry counties in Alabama, and is navigable 
as far as the Natural Bridge, above Marianna. A passage has been broken 
from the Appalachicola, into the Chipola, just above the situation where 
the Wetappo approaches the latter river, and by overflowing the natural 
banks of the Chipola, has formed a lake of considerable extent The Ap- 
palachicola enters the bay, through several mouths, and has thrown into 
the bay a great extent of marshy delta. The lands on the banks of this 
river, are generally rich, and the produce conveyed to market down its va- 
rious channels is already very considerable, and is rapidly increasing. 

The Oclockony River rises in Irwin county, Georgia, and pursuing a 
southwardly course, it enters the bay of the same name, seven miles from 
the Gulf, and about twenty west of St. Marks. Lieut. Swift reported 
seven feet water on the bar, at the entrance of Oclockony Bay. Steam. 
boats may probably ascend fifty or sixty miles at most seasons of the year. 
A branch called Crooked River, breaks off above the bay, and after a 
course of twenty miles, enters New River, a small stream that reaches the 
Appalachicola Bay, directly north of the west end of Dog Island. Tugido, 
Little River, Robinsons Creek, and Rocky Comfort are branches of t 1 is 
river. t 

The Appalache River is formed at St. Marks by the junction of tne 
Wakully and St. Marks Rivers ; the Wakully rises from the earth, eleven 
miles north west from St. Marks. Boats drawing six feet may ascend to 
the head. The upper part of the river is full of small islands, and even 
the crooked channels are filled with long grass, so as to impede the naviga- 
tion. The St. Marks rises in a small pond, nineteen miles N. E. from its 
junction with the Wakully. Boats drawing four feet, can ascend to its 
source. Schooners drawing seven feet, ascend to Magnolia, seventeen 
miles from the Gulf. It is probable that the real source of this river is in 
Irwin county, Georgia ; that after traversing Mickasukey Lake, it sinks into 
the earth and ultimately rises at the pond at Brockhaven. Numerous 
streams direct their course towards its supposed channel, and sink into the 
earth. Large sinkholes also, and at one place a large stream appears above 
ground, where this river is supposed to flow. Below St. Marks the naviga- 
tion is very crooked and much impeded by Oyster bars. Congress in 1829, 
appropriated a sum of money, to improve the navigation. It is greatly 
needed, as commerce is rapidly increasing here, and will progress with the 
population of the Middle District. A lighthouse has lately been erected at 
the entrance of this river. 

The Ocilla River rises in Irwin county, Georgia, and enters the Territory 
in two branches, about ten miles apart. These unite about fourteen miles 
below the line. The eastern branch forms the division line between Madi- 



48 RIVERS. 

son and Jefferson counties. The western branch, from the Georgia line 
nearly to the place of its junction with the eastern branch, spreads into a 
wide grassy lake, more than a mile wide. About thirty miles from its 
mouth it falls over a rocky ledge, and twelve miles from the Gulf, it sinks 
under ground for three fourths of a mile. From this bridge to the sea, it is 
navigable for small vessels. It receives from the east a considerable stream, 
called Foenahalloway. This stream abounds with excellent fish. 

The Chattahatchee, or Stony River, takes its course southwardly from 
Sampala Pond, which, by the Spaniards, was called San Pedro. It runs 
through a barren country, and falls into the Gulf about fourteen miles east 
of the Ocilla. 

Achenahatche, or Cedar River, rises in numerous lakes, in the eastern 
part of Madison county, and falls into the Gulf about thirty miles east of 
the mouth of Suwanne. This river is small, but is the outlet of a rich gra- 
zing country. 

Histahatche River is formed by the junction of three streams, at the falls, 
nine miles from the Gulf. It spreads into a round bay before it enters the 
Gulf. From this to the falls, it is very deep, and its rocky shores are scoop- 
ed by the waters into numberless grotesque and fanciful shapes. From the 
bay to the Gulf the passage is shoal. The land about this stream is very 
rocky, but heavily timbered. 

The Suwanne is formed by the junction of the Little Suwanne and Alla- 
pahaw Rivers. The Ouithlacouche rises in Doole county, Georgia, and 
joins it six miles below the Allapahaw. The Little Suwanne rises above 
the Okefanakow Swamp, in Appleby county, Georgia. The Suwanne 
makes a very circuitous course to the Gulf, into which it carries an exten- 
sive delta. It empties its waters through numerous shallow channels. 
From the bar, which has no more than five feet water, fifteen feet may be 
carried as high as the Santaffe, which enters from the east, fifty-five miles 
from the bar. Above the Santaffe there are several ripples, where the wa- 
ters are no more than six feet deep. This depth may be carried up to the 
Ouithlacouche. The bed of this river is uniformly rocky. The Santaffe 
rises in a long pond, on the ridge of the peninsula. It runs a course of 
about fifty miles, and receives the outlet of Sampson's Pond, or Alligator 
Creek, New River and Sanfilaseo. above the bridge, and the Echatuckne 
below the bridge. The natural bridge covers the stream for about three 
miles. In high freshes, the subterraneous passage is not sufficiently large 
to receive all the water, and then a large stream passes over it. 

The Wakasasse rises in Allachua county, and running a southwardly 
course through a long range of ponds, it enters the Wakasasse Bay be- 
hind the Fresh Water Keys. This stream passes through a fine grazing 
country, as the name imports. The remains of several Indian houses are 



RIVERS. 49 

situated about seven miles from the mouth of it. This river is little known. 
Should the bar be sufficiently deep to admit merchant vessels, a conveni- 
ent depot for the produce of the Allachua country may be found on its 
banks. 

The Ouithlacouche rises in the Seminole District, on the east side of 
the military road, south of Lake Ware. Its course is N. W. till it ap- 
proaches Camp King, it then turns westward and enters the Gulf above 
St. Clement's Point. This is a narrow and swift stream, and in many 
places rocky. The bar is shoal ; boats, however, may ascend within four- 
teen miles of Camp King. From the Silver Spring, a navigable water 
of the Ocklawaha, to this place, is seventeen miles. This is decidedly the 
place where the waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf can be connected 
by the shortest cut, and besides, that the land is comparatively level, the 
height of the table land is here only eighty-seven feet above the tide, 
while the height on the route by Black Creek and Santaffe, recommended 
by the Board of Engineers, is 237^ feet. It is matter of regret that the 
Engineers did not examine this route ; and the more so, as it was particu- 
larly pointed out by our delegate in Congress. 

Hillsborough River rises a little south of the Ouithlacouche. It has a S. 
E. course of about 50 miles and enters the north end of Hillsborough Bay. 
Boats can ascend this river about 20 miles, to the falls. Cantonment 
Brook is situated at the east side of its mouth. 

Manatee river rises in the unexplored country east of Tampa Bay, and 
is about a mile wide at its entrance. It has ten feet of water to the Falls 
of Haffia. It is little known beyond, except that several considerable 
branches extend through the country, the largest of which, spreading north- 
ward, was by the English called South Hillsborough. The Manatee en- 
ters the bay .15 miles S. E. fiom Cantonment Brook. 

Talackchopko, or Peace River, is the same named Asternal on Vig- 
nolles' Map. It rises in the interior from Lake Apopkochee, and pursues 
a westward course until parallel with Charlotte Bay; it then turns south for 
about 18 miles and enters the north side of the bay, some miles below the 
mouth of Macaco River. It was 60 yards wide where Capt. Clark's survey 
crossed it. 

Macaco, or Charlotte River, is supposed to have its source in Myacco 
Lake, in the heart of the Peninsula. We have not been so fortunate as to 
find white man or Indian that had ever visited the lake or the river more 
than fifty or sixty miles above Charlotte Bay. There, it flowed with 
a rapid current, and the stream was two miles wide and twelve feet deep. 
The north bank was a wide and deep swamp. The south bank had a 
narrow strip of high ground, which soon fell off into mangrove swamp. 

7 



50 RIVERS. 

This is the largest river on the western side of the Territory. It is to be 
regretted that it has never been explored to its source. 

Caloosahatchee River enters Carlos Bay; it appears to be a large stream, 
but has never been explored. A Spanish fishery has been established at 
its mouth. 

Delaware, or Gallivan River, enters the east end of the Caximbas, 
among numerous islands. It is a bold stream, and vessels drawing eight 
feet can sail into it. How far it is navigable is unknown. There is a high 
and pleasant bank on the south side of the river, but it seems to be confined 
by the mangroves at some distance back. There is a good harbor for 
coasting vessels in front of this river. 

St. Maria and Hujelos, or Swallow River, are separated only by a 
point. They are small streams and their sources are unknown. The Hu- 
jelos is the southern boundary of Hackleys' claim, on the west. This is, by 
the native Indians, called Chittahatche, or Snake River. They relate 
that thirty miles up it there are several good islands, covered with oak tim- 
ber and mastic, but they say that they are prevented from hunting there 
by the snakes. Except Dry Creek, or Sable Creek as it is sometimes 
called, there is no river below the Swallow River. This creek throws up 
at its mouth high banks of sand, and is doubtless very rapid in high fresh- 
ets. It has an excessive crooked course among the mangroves, which ter- 
minates in a drain from the Glades. 

Sharks River I could not find, and think that it does not exist. Below the 
Upper Camachee Field, 15 miles above Cape Sable, the water was 
very deep, and there appeared much current among a cluster of islands. 
A stream might enter behind them, but nothing like what is represented on 
the map for Shark's River. 

Miame River is a small stream that issues out of the Glades and enters 
Sandwich Gulf, behind Cape Florida. It is about six feet deep where it 
enters the gulf. The tide rises about 4 miles up in a rocky channel. It 
there forks, and the north branch descends from the Glades in a rapid cur- 
rent over a limestone rock. The height of the Glades above the tide has 
not been ascertained. The inhabitants here say 40 feet ; I feel confident 
that it is more than half that height. Fifty feet, if cut through would drain 
a vast extent of grass meadow, that appears to the eye quite boundless. 
There may be lagoons of great depth, but they cannot be extensive, as the 
waters, to appearance, are not more than, from two to four feet deep. 

The River of Rats, or Rattones, is extremely similar to the Miame in its 
course. The tide, however, scarcely affects it, and falls over a plane less 
inclined than the Miame. A prong of this stream is connected with a 
branch of New River. Indeed, there is little doubt that all the streams on 






RIVERS. 51 

this coast, up to Indian River, are drains from the Glades, and thus may 
communicate with each other. Arch Creek is a considerable stream that 
enters the bay between these two rivers. It waters a rich tract of land. 

New River has a longer course than the Miame and Rat Rivers. The 
Glade here recedes farther from the coast. It has six feet water on the 
bar, and it may be navigated several miles into the country. 

The Potomac leaves the Glades about fifteen miles from the coast and 
enters Hillsborough Inlet, where it is joined by the waters ofBocca Rat- 
tones, which has for several years been closed up. There is six feet water 
at the mouth of the inlet, which is narrow and rocky. [Since writing the 
above, Hillsborough Inlet has closed, and Bocca Rattones is again open.] 

Jupiter Creek is a sluggish stream, which runs a N. E. course about 15 
miles, and enters the south-west end of Hobe Sound. 

Middle River is a drain somewhat larger, and pursues a course from west 
to east of about twenty miles, and enters Hobe near the last creek. 

Greenville River enters the sound, a short distance from the last river. 
Its northern branch is near thirty miles long, and traverses a pine country 
after leaving the glades. 

St. Lucia enters Indian River near the south end, with a broad bold 
stream, which appears more like an arm of the bay, than a river. It con- 
tinues thus for ten miles in a westerly direction. Here is a large bend, and 
its course is from the south ; here it passes through two small lakes. At 
twenty-two miles from the mouth it suddenly contracts into a narrow and 
crooked, but deep stream ; which is encumbered with old cypress trees. 
Romans states, that it passes through the savannas and glades, but rises 
far back in the high grounds ot the peninsula. This is contradicted by 
Vignolles, who says that it is soon lost in the swamps ; that it is a mere 
drain from the glades. The waters of this stream have, within a few 
years past, forced a passage through the coast, at the place marked on the 
charts, the Gap. Probably, this is not the first time the channel has been 
opened. The tide passes and re-passes this new inlet, with great rapidity. 
The bar was not sounded by me. It appeared shoal. In the winter of 
1832 this inlet was carefully examined ; recent storms had made great 
changes in the islands of the coast ; — a full mile had been cut ofT from the 
island on the north side of St. Lucia Inlet, and the channel had deepened 
to eight feet on the bar. 

Indian River is a vast lagoon. It was formerly called Ys. The dis- 
tance from its head branches to Jupiter Narrows is about one hundred 
miles. It is in some places four miles wide ; in others not fifty yards. In 
some extensive reaches it would swim a frigate, at others six feet water 
can scarcely be found across the channel. The depth of water is greatly 



52 RIVEHS. 

affected by the seasons. When the southern inlets are closed the waters 
rise very high, before they have power to force open the closed inlets. The 
north branch of this river rises in McDougal's Swamp, five miles S. W. 
from New Smyrna. It inundates the centre of the swamp for about 
fourteen miles ; it then confines itself to a deep crooked channel, and re- 
ceives the west branch from the pine woods, about sixteen miles from New 
Smyrna. It is likely that the western branch has the largest course, as 
the current is more rapid than that of the north branch. Its course, to the 
haulover, is about S. E. In passing southwardly it gradually spreads to 
a width of four miles, and opposite to Cape Canaverel it is more than 
six miles wide. It becomes very narrow opposite Crane Creek, and widens 
again at the inlet to four miles. The deepest water is usually on the west 
side. The eastern side is filled with islands in many places, particularly 
above and below the inlet, and on the east side of Merritt's Island. It re- 
ceives from the west many tributary streams. Elbow Creek enters just 
above the south point of Merritt's Island. It is a large stream. Crane 
Creek is less, and enters below the south point of the island. Turkey 
Creek is still less, and enters about three miles south of Crane Creek. 
These three creeks drain a branch of the glades, that approach within 
twelves miles of Indian River. 

St. Sebastians River rises in the Glades, and pursuing a N. E. course, 
enters the river eighteen miles below Merritt's Island, and twenty-seven 
above the Inlet. This is the longest tributary stream of Indian River, ex- 
cept St. Lucia, which has been considered as a branch, until lately, when 
it forced a passage through the beach, and thus cut off about three miles of 
Indian River, to the south, where it is connected with Jupiter Narrows. 
These Narrows are a labyrinth of narrow, deep and crooked channels, that 
connect the south end of Indian Lagoon, with Hobe Sound. The tide 
passes swiftly through them ; they are separated by a vast number of man- 
grove islands. These narrows extend about eight miles. Hobe Sound is 
a handsome sheet of water, from a quarter to half amide wide, and extends 
from the narrows to Jupiter Inlet, about eight miles further. Before St. 
Lucia River broke the chain, Indian River, and Hobe Sound formed one 
great Lagoon, near two hundred miles long. This great Lagoon under- 
goes frequent changes. There is every reason to believe that, at some former 
period, it discharged a great column of water at Cape Canaverel, which 
appears like a bank of sand, forced into the Atlantic by a rapid stream. 
This river being choked up by the Coquina formation, which constantly 
accumulates on the coast, the waters were driven laterally into the St. Lu- 
cia, which in its course became blockaded ; and a great lake collected 
behind the coast, until the accumulated waters burst new channels into 



RIVERS. 53 

the sea. Jupiter Inlet has opened and closed three times, within seventy 
years. There is at this time, three inlets. The old Indian Inlet, 40 miles 
below Cape Canaverel, St. Lucia Inlet, and Jupiter Inlet, all of which are 
shoal and appear to be closing up. When one or moie of these shall 
close, it is to be expected that the force of the tide will render the others 
deeper. Should the old inlet and St. Lucia be closed, the navigation of 
the whole lagoon would be greatly benefitted. For turtle and fish, Indian 
Lagoon is equal to Tampa Bay. 

Hillsborough Lagoon extends from Cape Canaverel to Musquito Inlet, a 
distance of forty miles. The southern point is in some places six miles 
wide. It has no tributary streams. The north end, for fourteen miles, is 
full of mangrove Islands ; and some, that have high ground, covered with 
palms and other timber. Vessels drawing eight feet, can ascend twelve 
miles to Turtle mount, and sloops can pass the Cigeras, or Mount Rodney, 
four miles further. This Lagoon interlocks with Indian Lagoon. A 
small creek connects the east end of Hillsborough Lagoon, with the waters 
of Indian River, on the east side of Merritt's Island. At the Haulover, the 
distance is only half a mile, between the navigable waters of each. It 
abounds in turtle, and fish of the best quality and size. New Smyrna was 
situated on the western bank of this lagoon, four miles south of Musquito 
Bar. 

Halifax Lagoon extends from Musquito Bar, northward to Tomoko, a 
distance of twenty-three miles. It is usually a mile wide, and has many 
islands and extensive marshes at the south end. Eight feet water may be 
had as far as Pellican Island, eight miles north of the bar, and sloops have 
ascended to the Orange Grove, four miles higher. The Bar of Musquito 
Inlet, is about the same depth as that of St. Augustine, and the harbor is 
easy of access, and when entered perfectly safe. Halifax and Hillsborough 
Lagoons, meet at this bar. Several small streams enter the Halifax. 
Spruce Creek is navigable from 15 to 20 miles, one half that distance, 
through extensive marshes. The Kings road crosses it over a wooden 
bridge, ten miles from the lagoon ; the creek is there ten feet deep. 

Tomoko Creek enters at the head of the lagoon, on the west side. 

Smiths Creek and Haulover Creek, unite before they enter the north end 
of the lagoon. Haulover Creek rises in the savanna, near the head of Ma- 
tanzas River, and not half a mile west of the coast. Smiths Creek is a 
drain from the pine woods, west of the former, and is navigable for boats, 
sixteen or seventeen miles from the lagoon. 

The Matanzas Sound, separates Anastatia Island from the main. From 
the Bar of St. Augustine, to the Matanzas Bar is 21 miles, and an arm or 
lagoon extends seven miles further, to Mala Compra, the seat of Gen. 



54 st. John's river. 

Hernandez. It is, on an average, three fourths of a mile wide, and receives, 
at the south lagoon, Longs Creek; Pallaciers Creek near the Matanzas bar ; 
Moses and Moultree Creeks twelve and five miles south of St Augustine, 
and St. Sebastians, just below the city. Vessels drawing nine feet water, 
have often loaded at Matanzas Inlet and passed through the sound to St. 
Augustine, 

North River rises in Cabbage Swamp west of Diego Plains, and after a 
southern course of twenty-five miles, meets the Matanzas at the Inlet of 
St. Augustine. It has no tributaries except Guano Creek and several 
pleasant brooks, from the pine woods. It is navigable for schooners twelve 
miles ; thus far, it is about half a mile wide. Boats drawing five feet ascend 
to the plains, eight miles farther. 

The St. Johns is a noble river, sweeping round a large extent of the 
Peninsula in a circular form. Its sources, although, probably within twen- 
ty miles of the coast, have never been explored. It often spreads from 
three to five miles, in width ; at other places it is not one fourth of a mile. 
It is exceedingly crooked, meandering through a beautiful and healthy coun- 
try. Although, in a straight line, it may not be one hundred and fifty miles 
from its mouth to its source, yet, in its meanderings, it is more than twice 
that distance. Vessels drawing eight feet water, enter Lake George and 
Duns Lake, one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. At the entrance 
of this river, there is twelve feet water on the bar. It is here only one mile 
wide. A lighthouse on the south side of the river, marks the entrance. 

From the best information we have been able to collect, the St. Johns 
rises nearly opposite to Cape Canaverel, in the extensive grass meadows 
that extend, east and west, from three to twelve miles, and twenty to thirty 
north and south, but separated from the waters that run south, into the 
Everglades, by a very crooked rise of cabbage land, but little elevated 
above the adjoining meadows. Indeed it is more than probable, that in wet 
seasons they may be connected. 

The head streams are numerous, and although, from three to six feet 
deep, are so full of grass that a canoe cannot be pushed up them without 
great labor. 

The first open navigable water is a Lake about five miles long and one 
wide, near fifty miles south of Lake Monroe. About a mile north of this, 
a large stream enters from the S. E. which appears to rise in a small lake 
about a mile distant. The river now widens, in the course of three or four 
miles, to two hundred yards, and has a depth of eight to ten feet. The 
eastern bank is from eight to ten feet high with small beautiful hammocks, 
broken through by several tributary streams. The west side an unbroken 
marsh. 






st- johjs's river. 55 

Three small Lakes now embrace the river in the distance of as many 
miles. The river is then divided among numerous large marshy islands, so 
that the main channel is hard to be found ; ponds and lagoons of every 
shape are numerous, and no pine woods to be seen on the west. 

In a few miles a Lake opens to the north, perhaps five miles in circuit 
and averaging six to seven feet deep. The river leaves this Lake near 
three hundred yards wide and twelve to fifteen feet deep, and continues to 
meander through grass meadows, marshes, hammocks and clusters of cab- 
bage trees, occasionally increased by tributary streams, the largest of 
which comes from the south west ; in which direction the pine timber again 
appears. 

Seven miles above Lake Monroe, Lake Peyton joins the river on the west 
side, at the extremity of a long sharp bend. It extends to the westward four- 
teen miles in an oval form, becoming narrow towards each end ; the east- 
ern, is indeed scarcely half a mile wide for a considerable distance. In the 
centre, where the width is perhaps five miles, there is a circular island with a 
shoal extending to some distance towards the east. The water of the lake 
is usually six feet deep, except the east end which is no more than three 
feet. The eastern part of the lake is bordered with cypress swamp. The 
western part by hammocks covered with cabbage palms, live oaks and 
other hard timbers. A large Indian old field lies on the south side of the 
lake near the end. Near it a considerable stream passes into the lake ; this 
stream rises about a mile from the lake in several large sulphur springs. 
On the west side of the stream, on the lake shore is a considerable Semi- 
nole village.* 

Two miles below Peyton Lake, the river embraces a large island, near 
three miles long and one broad. 

The country here, is diversified with grass savannas, swells of pine land, 
oak hammocks and clumps of palms ; in many places near the river, the 
grass meadows are rich and beautiful. 

Four miles from the island the river enters Lake Monroe over a sand bar 
on which there is little more than three feet water. 

This Lake is of an oval form, seven or eight miles long and three to four 
wide, towards the south end ; it is narrow at the north end. A very long 
point of land runs from the S. E. end, more than a mile towards the centre 
of the lake, dividing it into two deep bays, into the eastern of which the 
river discharges itself. The depth of water is on an average about eight 
feet, though deeper towards the N. W. end. The river passes from the 
lake over a bar of five feet. 

* The above lake was discovered in the spring of 1837 by Lt. Peyton, 2d artillery. To 
whom I am under obligations for this information. 



56 ST. JOHNS RIVER. 

The eastern shore of the lake is thinly shaded with hammock trees, be- 
yond which, grass savannas extend for several miles. Several large medi- 
cinal springs rise near the N. E. shore. At the S. E. near the entrance of 
the river, the bank is formed of concrete shell rock, that might answer for 
building. On the S. W. side there is a hammock of some extent, covered 
with loose shells ; on this is situate Camp Mellon, established by Col. Fan- 
ning about the 5th Feb.. and attacked by Philip on the 8th. In this affair 
the Seminoles were severely handled, and driven off with the loss of several 
men, after a close engagement of four hours. 

Lake Monroe abounds with excellent fish. North of Lake Monroe, the 
river is usually from thirty to fifty yards wide, from two to three fathoms 
deep, and very crooked. The banks variegated with meadows of grass, 
twenty feet high, hammocks of live oak, magnolia, &c. and clumps of cab- 
bage trees, generally rich land, for thirty miles to Berrisford. 

Berrisford was the most southern settlement made by the English on this 
river. It is a high rich hammock on the N. E. side, separated from the 
river by a pleasant lake, half a mile wide* and two or three long. A large 
mineral spring rises behind the north point of Berrisford. It is very trans- 
parent, five to six fathoms deep, thirty yards broad, abounds in fish, whole 
companies of which may be seen sailing in every part of the fountain. The 
column of water thrown up forms a creek thirty yards wide, and six feet 
deep, which enters the lake near a mile from the head. 

For twenty miles the river continues to pass through a country similar 
to that from lake Monroe. It then passes through the west end of Long 
Lake, at the entrance of which on the west bank, is a wild orange grove. 
The east end of this lake is connected with Dexter's Lake by a creek one 
and a half miles long. Dexter's Lake is a triangular sheet of water, about 
six miles in circumference. Into the N. E. angle enters Spring Garden 
Creek. This creek rises in a large spring, five Smiles east of Dexter's Lake 
and at the north end of Spring Garden Plantation, the property of Colonel 
Rees, of South Carolina. The spring affords water sufficient to manufac- 
ture the sugar and mill work of the plantation. It is the first experiment 
of damming up and raising water on the springhead, and has succeeded per- 
fectly well. Spring Garden Lake, is a shallow water, extending from near 
the spring, nearly a mile south, bounding the western side of the plantation. 
The whole course of navigation from this to the St. Johns, is about twenty 
miles. Long Lake is six miles from east to west, and sufficiently deep for 
any craft that can pass Lake George. 

Six miles brings us to Volusia, a pleasant military post, six miles above 
Lake George, on the N. E. bank of the river. This place was long occu- 
pied as a plantation ; the soil is rich shell land, rising into considerable emi- 



st. john's river. 57 

nences. Here the old Indian trail crosses the river leading from St Augus- 
tine to Chicuchatty. A road is now opened from this to Tampa Bay by 
Pilacklacaha. 

The river enters Lake George over a bar of four feet water. This lake 
is about fifteen miles long, and eight wide. It averages about twelve feet 
in depth. There are several pleasant and rich tracts of land on its borders, 
and it contains two large islands near the north end. Drayton's Island, 
ov/ned by Mr. Z. Kingsley, contains near three thousand acres of land, on 
which is a considerable plantation. The Silver Spring, a beautiful fountain, 
rises on the S. W. border of the lake, the outlet of which, is navigable for 
boats. The Salt Spring rises about five miles from the N. W. shore ; the 
estuary is navigable for steam boats to the head. A very handsome creek 
on the eastern side of the lake, has excellent land on its banks. 

Seven miles of bold and open water brings us to Little Lake. This is an 
expansion of the river five or six miles in circumference, with a very crook- 
ed channel winding through it. 

Mount Royal is a small tract ofland on the north shore of the river south 
of the lake, formerly an English farm. 

North of the lake is Mount Tucker, formerly a very extensive plantation, 
with a high lookout mound, close to the lake shore. On the west side of the 
river, enters the Ocklawaha, the largest tributary of the St. Johns. 

This river rises about sixty miles east of Tampa Bay, near the centre of 
the peninsula, and after passing through two smaller lakes, enters Lake 
Eustis, about nine miles south of the road leading from Volusia to Tampa. 
The north end of Eustis approaches near to the road, its outlet is fordable in 
dry seasons, but at other times is fifty yards wide, and six to eight feet 
deep. A bridge was thrown across this place by General Eustis ; it. was 
afterwards destroyed by the Indians. A large lake spreads out below the 
crossing, but little is known respecting it. Pain's Landing used formerly to 
be considered the head of navigation, but since the establishment of the In- 
dian Agency at Fort King, boats have come up into Spring Creek, three miles 
east of that post. Twenty miles below Spring Creek, Orange Creek enters 
from the west. From thence it passes through vast clusters of Islands, 
which impede the navigation for about eight miles. It enters the St. Johns 
opposite Mount Tucker, through very extensive swamps of rich land. The 
government of the United States have granted $10 000 to improve the 
navigation of this stream. 

Twenty miles below the Ocklawaha, Dunn's Creek enters from the east. 
This creek is navigable for schooners into Dunn's Lake. From this creek it 
is eight miles to Palatka, the seat of Doct. Brush, of New- York, where a 
ferry was kept before the Seminole war, on the road leading from St. Au- 

8 



58 st. John's rivek. 

gustine to the Allachua country. Palatka is now destroyed by the savages, 
Five miles below this, Rice Creek enters from the west ; it is navigable 
about twenty-five miles. It has its source in the Etteni cluster of ponds, 
thirty miles west. 

Thus far the river is very narrow, and very crooked ; below this it widens 
and becomes much straighter. In a distance of twenty-five miles to Picol- 
ata, it is in some places three miles wide. At Picolata on the east, and 
Bayard on the west, the great road from St. Augustine to Tallahasse 
crosses. This far the tide rises from ten to eighteen inches. A line of 
steamboats runs from Savanna to this place. 

Six Mile Creek enters from the east, five miles below Picolata, and Black 
Creek at twelve miles, on the west side. This creek has a good navigable 
channel, fifteen miles to Garey's Ferry, where a military post is established. 

Mandarin is a small village on the east bank of the river, three miles 
below the mouth of Julington Creek. Girts Creek enters from the west, 
five miles above Jacksonville, and Trout Creek five miles below. Pablo 
enters from the south three miles above the bar. 

There is an inland communication between the St John's and St. Mary's, 
navigable for steamboats. 

The tide is perceptible in the St. John's more than a hundred miles from its 
mouth. Its waters are of a brown color, tinged by the abundant vegetables 
washed in its course. It abounds in fish, and its alligators have been cele- 
brated by Bartram the younger rather correctly than otherwise. 

Nassau River rises about half way between the St. John's and St. Ma- 
ry's. Its sources are in large swamps west of the King's Road. It pursues 
a meandering course of about fifty miles, through extensive marshes, and 
enters the Atlantic over a bar of six feet at low water. 

St Mary's River is the boundary line between Florida and Georgia. It 
rises in Oquafanoke Swamp in Apling County, Georgia, and discharges its 
waters into the Atlantic in lat. 30° 40 V N. between Cumberland and Ame- 
lia Islands. There is thirteen and a half feet of water on the bar at low 
tide. The tide rises six and a half feet. High tides at full and change of 
the moon, at half past six o'clock. This river is clear and limpid water, 
and navigable for large vessels, eighty-five to one hundred miles. The na- 
vigation is safe, the banks almost perpendicular. It is, however, a very 
crooked stream. The little St. Mary's is a southern branch, that enters the 
river about 25 miles above the town, and directly below the plantation of 
Z.Kingsley, Esq. 

Spanish Creek rises in Little Oquafanoke Swamp, and enters the river 
just above Colerain. Big Creek rises in Allachua County, and is the south- 



LAKES. 59 

em branch of the St. Mary's. Its source is in a large pond. The inland 
communication between this river and the St. John's, is large enough for 
the passage of steamboats. Congress has lately expended several thou- 
sand dollars for the purpose of improving this communication. 

LAKES. 

The first lake worthy of notice in the western part of the territory, is 
McDavid's. It is situate on the north line of Walton County. It is about 
three miles long and two broad. It is a beautiful sheet of water, abound- 
ing in fish and water fowl. 

Lake Wimico is near the coast in Washington County. It is seven 
miles long and three broad. It has a navigable outlet into the Appalachico- 
la River. Its west end is five and a half miles from the St. Joseph's. It is 
now connected with the St.. Joseph's by a rail road. 

Hort's Lake is an inundation of the Appalachicola River, covering a large 
extent of country. The Chipola river passes through it. It has not been 
well explored. 

Iamony Lake is situate in the north part of Leon County, is between eight 
and nine miles long, and from three to four broad. It discharges its wa- 
ters into the Ocklockony River. 

Lake Jackson is four miles N. W. from Tallahasse. It extends north 
and south about ten miles, and is in some parts five miles wide. 

Mickasooke Lake lies east of Lake Jackson, It is twelve miles from 
north to south, extending into the State of Georgia. The western part is 
much the largest, and is in form a triangle. Much of this lake is covered 
with tall grass, of which cattle are so fond, that they often wade where the 
water is over their backs to feed on it. 

Old Tallahasse Lake is in the S. E. part of La Fayette's Township. It 
is three miles long from east to west, and about a mile wide. It has long 
been celebrated for its excellent trout. 

Sampala Lake, the San Pedro of the Spaniards, is situate in Madison 
county, on the north side of the eastern military road. This is a superior 
water for fish. It has an outlet into Foenahalloway, or Chattahatchee 
River. 

Alligator Lake is situate in the north part of Allachua, now Columbia 
County, on the south side of the military road. In winter it is three miles 
long and almost as wide. It receives several creeks, but has no outlet, ex- 
cept a sink hole, which in summer drains the pond nearly dry. It is then 
an excellent grazing tract. It probably communicates with New River, a 
north branch of the Santaffe. 

Randolph, or as the inhabitants call it, Ocean Lake, is on the north side 



60 LAKES. 

of the St. Augustine road, about fifteen miles N. E. of Alligator Lake. It 
is one of the heads of the St. Mary's River, and is claimed by Georgia as 
the main source of that river. It is said to be six or seven miles long, and 
two or three wide. 

Pithlachucco Lake is within the Arredondo Grant, in the centre ofAl- 
lachua County. It is nine miles long and three wide. Its outlet, called 
the River Styx, falls into the great sink of Allachua Savanna. 

Hogmaster's Lakes are two, closely connected together, extending east 
and west about seven miles. They lie south of Mr. Levis' Plantation, in 
the heart of the Allachua grant. They are almost covered with grass. 

Orange Lake, in the same grant, is eleven miles long and from one to 
five miles wide. When this lake is rendered navigable from its head to the 
Ocklawaha, and thence into the St. John's River, it will be the depot of the 
produce of the Allachua country. 

The Etteni Ponds are a large cluster, of all sizes and shapes, up to four 
or five miles in extent. They extend south of the Ockawilla Savanna to 
the Orange Lake Creek. The largest of them is the head of Big Cedar 
Creek. They derive their name from a tribe of Seminole Indians, whose 
towns were situate among them. 

Doctor's Lake is rather an arm of the St. John's River. It extends 
south-west, towards Little Black Creek, about seven miles, and is from 
two to three miles wide, and navigable for schooners. 

Dunn's Lake lies between St. John's and Musquito Counties. It is fif- 
teen miles long and four to five wide. It is a beautiful sheet of water, 
abounding in fish and water fowl, and is navigable for large schooners. 
Dunn's Creek connects it with the St. John's. It receives the Haw 
Creeks at the S. E. end. The three creeks unite near the lake, and form 
a channel navigable for boats four or five miles. 

Lake George is fifteen miles long and eight to nine broad. It is pretty 
uniformly twelve feet deep. It receives many pleasant streams, from 
the east and two large springs from the west. The salt spring rises five 
miles from the lake, and admits boat navigation to the head. The silver 
spring rises only a mile from the lake and throws into it, a tribute of trans- 
parent water. The river above Lake George expands into several small 
lakes. Spring Garden Creek does the same, and the Ocklawaha, more than 
either. 

Lake Eustis is near the head of the Ocklawaha, and is said to be of an 
oval form about five miles on the course of the river, and four miles wide. 
On the S. E. side there are high sand hills. 

One branch of the Ocklawaha passes through two more large lakes. 
The southernmost is Apopka ; it is large but little known. 



LAKES. 61 

Apokachee or Big Apopka is situated south of Hitchepucsassee, is the 
head of Talackchapko or Peace River ; it is said to be ten miles long and five 
or six wide. At the outlet on the S. E. end the Seminoles had several towns 
containing two hundred houses, which were burned by Col. Goodwin, at 
the close of General Scott's campaign. 

Tokopalika Lake is situated in the centre of the peninsula of East Flori- 
da, and is connected with the southern Everglades by a chain of lakes and la- 
goons. Standing on the N. E. shore, no land can be seen in a southern direc- 
tion. Gen. Jessup's campaign extended south as far as this lake. Philip's princi- 
pal towns were in this vicinity, and here he remained unmolested during the 
whole Seminole war, with the exception of the establishment of fort Mellon 
on Lake Monroe, supposed to be twelve to fifteen miles east of this Lake. 

Lake Monroe is sixty miles from Lake George in a south east direction ; 
It is seven miles long and from three to four miles wide. It is usually full 
eight feet deep. It is of an oval form, narrowest at the north west end, and 
has a long point jutting from the south east end more than a mile towards 
the centre of the lake, dividing the south end into two deep bays. It abounds 
in fine fish, and is altogether a healthy and pleasant sheet of water. Fort 
Mellon is on the S. W. bank. 

Lake Ware is situated between the Seminole Agency and Tampa road, 
and the Ocklawaha river. It is said to be five miles long and three miles 
wide ; Pilhuena Island, near the south end of this lake, is described as a rich 
and romantic spot. Its luxuriant orange groves are said, formerly to have 
over-shadowed a red sprig of Royalty, who appears at least to have pos- 
sessed some taste in rural scenery. 

Fresh Water Lake lies parrallel and near to the southern Atlantic coast. 
Its north end approaches within ten miles of Hobe Sound. From thence, 
it extends southwardly, twenty-four miles, and is usually from two to three 
miles wide. There are several large lakes in this neighborhood, but they 
have not been explored, by any person, to my knowledge. 

The same observations apply to Lake Macaco ; several old maps exhibit 
waters on the interior of the Peninsula, connecting the principal rivers on 
both sides. I am inclined to believe, that the peninsula has not been ex- 
plored, far from either coast, south of Tampa Bay and Indian Lagoon. 
When Ferdinand de Soto invaded Florida, he found an Indian Chief named 
Macaco in the neighborhood of Tampa Bay, and his province bore the 
same name. When I visited Charlotte Bay, in 1S28, I found several 
native Indians, about the Spanish fisheries, who called Charlotte River, by 
the name of Macaco, but they could not be made to comprehend anything 
about such a lake. Not one of the writers who have described this country, 
since the change of flags, has been able to obtain any certain intelligence 
relating to this part of the peninsula. 



62 ANIMALS. 



ANIMALS. 



The Horses of Florida are a breed of hardy ponies, small and easy to 
support ; they will keep fat on the wild grass and herbage of the country, 
but they are not heavy enough for the harness. They are excellent travel- 
lers in a new and sandy country like ours. The breed is said to have been 
brought, originally, from Andalusia in Spain. It is thought that a breed of 
horses, from the English, mixed with the native poney, would unite most 
of the qualities, desirable in that useful animal. 

Mules are not raised here, but they ai'e frequently brought from the 
neighboring states, and sometimes from Campeachy and Texas. They 
are principally used for draft. They live longer, and are more easily kept 
than the English horse. 

The native cattle are a large breed with broad horns and close, sleek 
hair. They are good breeders, but have not been highly valued for their 
milk. They often become very fat on the wild grass of the country. The 
marshes on the coast, often give the milk, as well as the beef, a disagree- 
able flavor and a bad taste. Cattle bred in the interior country, often be- 
come sick when brought near the coast for grazing. 

Few oxen are used in the yoke, because agriculture is yet in its infancy 
in the Territory. 

Sheep succeed well in the higher parts of the country. The flavor of 
the mutton is good, and the meat of a tolerable quality. 

Goats are raised with ease ; they even seem to succeed best when most 
neglected. They multiply faster than any other domestic animal, and their 
increase is a clear profit to the owner. 

Of dogs we have every kind. The hound is extremely useful to the 
early settler on the frontier, and pointers and water-dogs are highly valued 
on the coast, where fowls are abundant. 

Hogs succeed to admiration ; they grow fat where every other animal 
would starve. They delight in the small shell-fish and marsh roots on the 
coast, while the mast and black bracken roots, in the country, are equal fa- 
vorites with them. 

Of wild animals, the deer is most important ; they are numerous in 
almost every part of Florida. They however do not grow so large here, as 
in the Middle States, and they are still smaller towards the capes of the 
Peninsula. 

Panthers are numerous in many parts of the Territory. In some of the 
grazing districts they are particularly destructive to calves. They are 
very shy animals and rarely seen. 

Bears are most numerous about the cane-brakes. They destroy abun- 
dance of hogs, and are usually very fat. 



ANIMALS AND REPTILES. 63 

/ Wolves are found in all the unsettled parts of the Territory ; but except 
in purloining a calf occasionally, they are little known. Their attention 
is usually directed to the sheep, and of these, there are, as yet, very few in 
the Territory. / 

Wild cats and foxes are rare. Opossums and racoons extremely nume- 
rous. The latter, in particular, about the sea-coasts live on fish and oysters, 
and become lumps of fat. 

Otters and minks are numerous about the water courses. There are two 
kinds of squirrel ; — the small grey, and the pine squirrel. The latter is a 
beautiful animal. His body is usually of a rich, glossy, brown color, and 
his head black, and very often one half of his face white. The Salaman- 
der is a land mole, about half the size of a rat. He is peculiar for throw- 
ing up rows of small sand hills over the woods, where the ground is easily 
excavated. He lives on the roots of plants. Rats and mice are numerous 
and troublesome every where. The small ground mole often commits dep- 
redations in the gardens, and especially in the orange nurseries. 

REPTILES. 

A great variety of Tortoises inhabit the territory. The common Land 
Tortoise, vestudo guacca, is from seven to ten inches long, very thick and 
clumsy, its head fat, and its tail covered with scales, its shell a dark brown 
on the back, and pale yellow beneath. It usually lives in deep shady 
woods, and feeds on insects. The female lays five eggs, and covers them 
up in sand, leaving them to hatch by the heat of the sun. 

The Gopher is much larger than the land tortoise. It frequently weighs 
from six to twelve pounds. It delights in soft sandy land, where it can 
push its burrows with little, labor. It is usually taken by digging pits, be- 
fore the mouth of its burrow. Soup and gumboes made of their flesh, are 
in high estimation. They feed in the evening and morning, on the dewy 
grass and herbs, but never stray far from their holes. They lay two or 
three eggs near their habitations, these are quite round, with hard shells, 
about the size of hens eggs ; they are covered about four inches in sand, and 
left to hatch by the heat of the sun. 

There is a very small tortoise found in Florida, not larger than a dollar. 
They are curiously striped with yellow, they are quite docile, and placed 
in a tumbler of water, they make very clever pets. I have not seen the 
species in any other place. 

The Painted Tortoise, testudo picta, is found in our rivers where they 
become brackish with the tide. They delight to bask in the sun, upon old 
logs, on limbs that hang over the water, from which they drop at the first 
appearance of danger. It is somewhat larger than the land tortoise. 



64 REPTILES. 

The Snapping Tortoise, test udo serpentina, grows to a huge size; our 
Lakes and Lagoons are well supplied with them. They often bite at the 
hook, and make very good food. 

The Green Tortoise, testudo mydas, is very numerous among the Flo- 
rida Keys. They are found, more or less, in every part of the Gulf of 
Mexico, and they also extend up the eastern coast of Florida, in considera- 
ble numbers. They grow to a great size. They usually average from 
ninety to a hundred pounds, but one was caught near the Ouithlacouche 
river, by Capt. Dagget, of the Dightcn, weighing six hundred. Another 
was brought into Key West, weighing near eight hundred. Their heads 
are small and round, their feet long and webbed somewhat like fins. They 
come upon the beach, during the moonlight nights, of the summer season, 
dig holes in the edge of the grass, near high water mark, and lay from 112 
to 130 eggs, and bury them from two to three feet deep in the sand. The 
turtle hunters often find them at their nests, and turn them on their backs, 
where they remain safely till they are conveyed away. When pursued on 
shore, they throw the sand with great violence behind them. They are 
very social, and herd together in large communities. Many inhabitants of 
the Keys, live by hunting them. A good turtler, will take from ten to 
twenty in a day ; they not only surprise them by land, but they pursue 
and strike them at sea. The tortoise spike is one inch and a half long ; the 
point that pierces the shell is only three fourths of an inch square, sharp 
and highly polished ; a grooved shoulder is raised in the centre, to which a 
cord is tied, a very short socket enters the end of a long straight pole, from 
which the spike easily slips. Great judgment is requisite in striking the 
tortoise ; if the blow be too heavy, the shell is cracked by the shoulder of 
the spike, and it will not then adhere, but if correctly entered, the force of 
the largest tortoise will not disengage the spike. The animal flies like a 
harpooned whale, but soon looses breath, and is easily towed to the boat. 
Large nets are also used in deep water, to catch them. By the quantity, 
tortoises are sold about the keys, at six and a half dollars per hundred 
weight ; at retail, twelve and a half cents per pound, is a common price. 

The Hawk-bill, testudo imbrecata, is a rare turtle on our coast. It is 
occasionally taken among the green ones. It is not highly valued for 
food. Its shell is highly estimated in commerce, and finds a ready sale 
among the manufacturers of combs, snuff-boxes, &c. 

The soft-shell, testudo feron, inhabits our fresh water lakes ; it is covered 
with a gelatinous gristle, instead of a shell. It is shaped like the green 
tortoise, and his feet are somewhat webbed. He usually feeds on frogs, 
but is particularly fond of young ducks. Its flesh is quite equal to that of 
the green tortoise. It rarely weighs over twenty pounds. 



REPTILES. 65 

Turtling forms so important a branch of southern industry, that a turtle- 
crawl is considered an essential appurtenance to a habitation ; as much so, 
as a barn is to a northern farmer. Turtle is the permanent stock. The 
crawl is a pen made where the water is about two feet deep, at low tide. 
Mangrove poles are generally driven into the beach, so near together that 
the turtle cannot pass between them. The tide thus flows freely about 
them, and they are daily fed with sea-grass or purslain. 

The Alligator, lacerta cinerous, is undoubtedly the ugliest creature 
living. Floating on the water he resembles a log. On land he looks like 
a huge snake, with the addition of thick, short legs, and sprawling claws. 
But it is in his wallow, a large mud hole among the rushes, that the alli- 
gator is quite at home, surrounded by a hundred young imps of ugliness, 
all barking like young puppies, and constantly pursued by the male for 
food. The female then adds rage to her natural deformity, and often kills 
her whelps by the strokes of her tail, while fighting in their defence. If 
any of our readers wish to become acquainted with the chivalric character 
of the male, let them consult William Bartram's Travels in Florida, page 
129. These hideous reptiles are, however, more disgusting than danger- 
ous. I have often seen people bathe within a few yards of them, with per- 
fect safety ; nor have they, so far as we have ever heard, attempted to in- 
jure any person. They often attack dogs and hogs, and have, rarely, at- 
tempted to seize cattle swimming in the water. During the warm season 
they spend the night in holes of fresh water near the coast ; but usually 
retire into the sea or some deep water during the day. Some inhabit the 
inland lakes and rivers, but salt lagoons are their favorite residence, where 
fish, turtle, and frogs are plenty ; they are not delicate in their choice of 
food. They sometimes swallow pine knots for want of better eating. 
During the warm evenings of summer, it is difficult for strangers to sleep 
near their haunts, on account of their bellowing. In the southern parts of 
the Territory, they keep abroad during the winter ; but they are not so nu- 
merous there, as in the St. John's River, and Appalachicola Bay, which 
are greatly infested by thern. Their nests are truly described by Bartram, 
nor has he greatly exaggerated their numbers ; but I have never discovered 
the ferocity that he describes. Their eggs are usually laid in five or seven 
tiers, one above another, with layers of green vegetables and mud between 
each ; the whole is then plastered over with mud, and forms a cone four 
feet high, and as many in thickness. The heat of the fermenting vegeta- 
bles and the sun's rays hatch the eggs, and the young whelps, about six 
inches long, crawl, in succession, from a hole near the top of the nest, and 
instinctively seek their mother in some neighboring wallow. The alligator 
differs from the crocodile in their teeth ; the fourth pair of the crocodile 

9 



66 REPTILES. 

passes upwards in a groove, — the alligator's perforates the upper jaw. 
The feet of the crocodile are webbed, those of the alligator are half-web- 
bed. The crocodile does not bellow like the alligator. The flesh of the 
alligator is said to be wholesome and pleasant food, and is eaten by many 
people. Their hides make excellent leather. 

There is a great hiatus between the alligator and the striped lizard, la- 
certa scorpio. This reptile is only six or seven inches long, with sides 
striped alternately with red and brown, and has large red gills. It is a 
greasy, disgusting thing, and very impudent, intruding itself into the cham- 
bers of the new settlers. It is, however, innocent, feeding on flies and 
other insects. 

The Swift, lacerta veloxa, is from five to six inches long, of an ash color, 
striped and dotted with brown. The tail long, of a deep green, and ex- 
tremely brittle ; when broken off it is re-produced in a short time. 

The Florida Cameleon, lacerta agilis, is less ugly than any of the lizard 
family. It is very domestic ; delights to run over the vegetables in the 
gardens, peas in particular. It will often sit on a leaf and puff out its un- 
der lip like a bladder, speckled with rubies, looking you all the time in the 
face with great assurance. It is almost transparent. While living on ve- 
getables it is of a most beautiful green, while those that are found on dark 
or burnt soils are of a dark brown; some are beautifully speckled with scar- 
let spots. 

The Black Newt, L. terestris, is usually found under rotten timber, and 
rarely appears abroad. 

The Bull Frog, rana accellata, is found in great numbers in some of our 
grassy ponds, but they are not so large or so numerous as in the Middle 
States. They live only in pure water, and feed on young ducks and 
cray-fish. They, in their turn, become the prey of the alligator, who will, 
in the course of a few weeks, clear a considerable pond of them. 

The common Brown Frog, rana temporaria, is more numerous than 
any other of the species. The female lays thousands of eggs at a litter; 
these produce the little brown frogs, that we see after a shower, all of a 
size, crawling in multitudes over the ground. 

The Green Frog, R. esculenta, is sometimes seen in the northern parts of 
Florida, but they are rare. About the month of May the female spawns, 
and the male attends to regale her with an unusual croaking noise. This 
kind of frog is in some countries highly valued, as a wholesome and de- 
licious food. 

The Little Tree-Frog, hyale, is of a fine pale green color. They usually 
live among the branches of trees, and feed on moths, worms, &c. They 
are rarely seen, on account of their similarity of color to the herbage they 



REPTILES. 67 

inhabit. Like the green lizard, this reptile assumes the color of the objects 
it inhabits. They are very musical reptiles, and rejoice at the fall of 
rain. 

The House Frog, hyale domestica, is usually concealed under the roof, 
or in some hole, from which it can easily approach the open air. He is al- 
so very musical ; in damp weather and during settled rains joins his notes 
with those of the tree frog and cricket, in a general serenade. 

The Garden Frog, H. hortularius, imitates to perfection the barking of a 
puppy. His note is so loud as to become very disagreeable. 

The Rattlesnake, crotillus horridus, is occasionally found in the islands 
and dry hammocks of Florida. The pine woods are so frequently burnt 
over that most of the reptile tribes are destroyed; some few get into the gopher 
holes and shelter themselves from the flames. The low parts of the Territo- 
ry are too wet for them, and the south is too hot. There are, perhaps, 
less snakes in Florida, than in any State or Territory of the same extent in 
the Union. I have spent nineteen years in this Territory, and visited almost 
every part of it, and during that time I have not seen so many poison- 
ous snakes as I have discovered in half a day in the western part of Penn- 
sylvania. 

The Copperhead has been discovered only in the western part of the 
Territory, and there very rarely. 

The Moccassin is the most numerous snake in the Territory. It inha- 
bits still waters. About the mouths of some rivers they bask on logs and 
limbs of trees, and often drop into boats passing under them. Their bite, 
although not so terrible as that of the rattlesnake, is yet very poisonous. 

The Viper, coluber berus, has been seen in some parts, but is very 
rare. 

The Ground Rattlesnake is about 12 inches long. It is frequently seen 
coiled in a circle, flat like a piece of ferretting ; in this situation it lies on a 
fence rail, or log, and has been seized by children, as a plaything. Its bite 
often produces a lingering illness, though not frequently mortal. 

The Black Snake, constrictor, is considerably numerous. One kind 
lives among the titi bushes, that cover streams running through the pine 
barrens. They often grow large and catch many chickens. They are not 
poisonous. A less kind inhabits the water ; these are numerous in some 
places. 

The Coachwhip is the largest and most numerous kind of snakes in 
Florida. They exactly resemble a thread-covered whip, with a black han- 
dle. The body is remarkably slender, of an ashy grey color. They are 
quite innocent. 

The Pine Snake is long and slender also, and chequered with black, on a 



68 INSECTS. 

light ground, the cheques are scarcely a twelth of an inch square. It is in- 
nocent. 

The King snake wears a coat of brilliant hues. Black, brown, yellow 
and white colors shine in mixed rings of an inch in length. He is about 
four feet long, somewhat stouter than the pine snake, and has the credit of 
destroying the rattle snake, wherever he can find him. 

The Bull Snake is of the size and color of the rattle snake, but is not 
poisonous ; his shape is more slender, he is sometimes called the Gopher 
snake. 

The Garter, Riband, Green and Grass snakes are occasionally seen, but 
there are few of either kind. 

INSECTS. 

The Insects of Florida are numerous as her vegetable productions, and 
were it not for the birds that destroy them, they would render the country a 
wilderness. Yet so careless are the inhabitants of their interests, that ten 
persons are found to destroy the innocent warblers, for one that attempts to 
destroy the pestiferous insects. Those most common, are— 

The Beetle. — Scarabeus. 

Night-walker. — Melalonthe. He flies about in the night and eats off the 
leaves of plants. 

Stagg Beetle. — Lucanus. 

Bacon Bug. — Dermestes. 

Lady-bird. — Coccenilla. This insect feeds on the aphides, or tree-lice and 
is very useful to gardens. 

Wevil. — curculia. A most destructive insect, in this climate, destroy- 
ing every kind of grain ; indian corn in particular, is so much injured by it, 
in a few weeks, as to render it useless. It is common to leave the corn un- 
husked, to guard, in some degree, against the evil. 

Metal Bug. — cicindela. Appears clothed in copper highly burnished. 

Cochineal. — C. cacti. The larvae of this insect resides, during the win- 
ter, under a white web, on the leaf of the prickly pear, or the articulation of 
the nopal, where it leaves its eggs to hatch in the spring and to feed on the 
flower i of the plant. Both larvae and imago are filled with the purple 
dye. 

Dermestes cardaneus. A small oval spotted bug. 

D. domesticus. The little bug that turns wood to a white pow- 
der, called powder-post. 

D. ferugenia. Feeds on rose buds. 

D. carrabeus. Feeds on the tender leaves of trees. 

D. cassida. A smaller spider. 



INSECTS. 69 

D. farfidela. Produces the Earwig. 

Ptinus pulsator. Ticks his everlasting note on the old paper, in Florida, 
as well as every other place. He is, by superstitious people called the death 
watch. 

P. fur. The book-worm. 

P. campyrus. The fire-fly. 

The above are insects with shelly wings of the class caleoptra. The fol- 
lowing have wings of a softer texture, of the class hemeptera. 

Cockroach. — Bletta. A most infamous stinking bug, very numerous 
and very mischievous, eating papers, wafers &c. ; no place can be guarded 
against them. Some grow to two inches in length. They are brown, but 
after moulting, their new covering is almost white. The natives dis- 
solve them in spirits to cure wounds and spasms. 

Grass-hopper. Locust. — gryllus. The former are plenty, the latter rather 
scarce. A large chocolate colored grasshopper is found in Florida, three 
inches long, often very numerous, on the marsh grass. They are very slug- 
gish, scarcely removing to avoid death. They seem born for no purpose 
but to propagate their species and to die. 

Katydid. — cicady. This insect lays her eggs near the edge of the 
orange leaf, the edge of one lopping over the other like scales. The leaf of 
the tree is their food. 

C. — spumonia lays her eggs on the stalk of some plant, and encloses 
them in a bunch of froth. This froth is by some called snake spittle. 

Vine-fretter. — aphis puceron. Is very destructive to vines, rose bushes, 
cabbages &c. There is said to be one hundred and fifty species. On every 
species of plant they vary in form and color. They derive their whole nour- 
ishment, from the juice of the plant they inhabit. Fortunately they have 
many enemies ; the caterpillar will devour one hundred puceronsin an hour. 

Gall Bug. — chermes. An insect similar in appearance to the puceron, 
but the chermes enter the twig, or leaf, and raise an excrescence about it 
which we call gall-nut. 

Thrips are minute insects, of various forms, that live on the flowers of 
plants. 

Bed Bug. — betulanius. Found in houses,where there is a want of indus- 
try and neatness, very rare in Florida. 

Ant. — formica. These insects, the little red ant, in particular, are terrible 
pests. They penetrate the earth and every thing that exists on the face of 
it. They do not raise hills of sand, as at the north, but they undermine trees 
and plants, destroy furniture and crawl into every kind of food. There are 
few varieties. 

Butterfly — lepidaptera. Innumerable. While in this state of existence, 



70 INSECTS. 

they are not only innocent, but afford much pleasure by their brilliant colors 
and graceful undulations. But in the erucre, or caterpillar state they are 
infinitely mischievous. In some instances, they have destroyed whole crops 
of cotton in a few days. The most common species of the butterflies in 
Florida are, 

Peacock — papillio io. This butterfly produces the eruca gossippium ; 
most destructive to the cotton plant. 

Tortoise-shell, P. urtical. Feeds on the asclepias. 

Blue, P. eimon. 

Yellow, P. fiava. 

White, P. alba, 

Citron Moth, P. extreus. 

The eruca often covers the limbs of the orange, stripping the branches. 

Tobacco Moth, P. faciola. 

Very destructive to the tobacco. 

Hawk Moth, P. iris. 

Eyed Sphynx, S. ascellatus. 

Death Head, S. atropos. 

This insect gives rise to many foolish superstitions. 

Clothes Moth, Phalena sargatella. 

Very destructive to clothes, furs, skins, &c. 

Cabbage Moth. — P. oleracia. This insect will in a few days time, make 
riddles of every cabbage in a garden. They must be carefully watched 
every morning in the summer, and destroyed as fast as they appear. 

Musquito Hawk. — Libellula. Called by some the dragon fly, is bred in the 
water, but hovers about moist places, and lives principally on musquitoes. 

Bay Fly. — Ephemera. This fly is the innocent tenant of a day, but very 
numerous at some seasons. 

Rustic Fly. — E. vulgata. Similar to the above. 

River Fly. — Rornbica, Spring Fly. — Phygarea. Both these species, 
in the larvae state, enclose themselves in a silken web, to which they 
attach sand, sticks and bits of shells, by way of fortification. They confine 
themselves to fresh water. 

The Hymenopterea, or stinging insects, are very numerous. 

Wasp. — Vespa. Are of several kinds. The large black wasp builds his 
mud dwellings, under the rocfs or ceilings of houses. The small black 
wasp constructs a comb, like the honey bee, and hangs it to a limb. The 
yellow jacket burrows in the ground, as in the northern states. 

Honey Bee. — Aphis. The honey bees found wild in Florida, are smaller 
than those which are domesticated in the northern states, their honey is very 
white and pure, and when made from the orange flower, the aroma of the 
blossom is distinctly perceptible, and much admired. The ants, moths and 



INSECTS. 71 

spiders, wage eternal war with this favorite insect, and it requires con- 
stant attention, to guard them from their enemies. The trouble is however 
well repaid, and the raising of them ought to be encouraged. 

Humble Bee. — A. bornbyleous. This common insect is very oft3n robbed 
of his small store of honey, by the bears. 

Gall Fly. — Cynips. This insect produces on the lonicena and some other 
shrubs, excresences of a very extraordinary shape and size. 

Saw Fly. — Tenthredo. Pine timber, cut in the summer, is pierced full of 
holes by this living auger. In order to guard against his ravages, timber 
should be cut in the winter and pealed ; when thus exposed to the sun, the 
albumen becomes too hard for his operations. 

Ichneumon. — Manifestator. A harmless insect and useful in destroying 
caterpillars. 

Two winged insects of the Deptra class, are very numerous, at certain 
seasons. 

House Fly. — Musca domesticus. Not so bad in Florida, as in the middle 
states. 

Gad Fly. — M. astres. Extremely numerous and vindictive. 

Horse Fly. — M. equi. Of these there are five kinds — 1st. the large 
black, called thunder bug, an inch long ; 2nd. small black ; 3d. the small 
brown, very numerous near the sea-coast ; 4th. the green fly with a black 
head, a perfect savage ; 5th. the slender green fly seen only in the morning 
and evening. 

Horse Guard, a species of large Hornet that burrows in the sand ; de- 
stroys the flies. 

Gnat. — Culex. Four kinds — 1st. the Gallinipper, with speckled legs, 
near half an inch long; 2nd. Musquito, which infest the low mangrove 
swamps, on the southern end of the peninsula, and the low and wet ground, 
in every part of the Territory, are more or less infested by them ; and in 
some places, the hammocks and pine woods swarm with them. The 
whole territory affords no object so unpleasant to strangers, as this little 
troublesome insect. But even in their worst haunts, an extensive cultiva- 
tion of the land, nearly exterminates them. 3d. Sand Fly ; this insect 
continues but a short period, and is confined to the coast ; 4th. the Mite 
Gnat, is common to every part of America, and we have our share of them. 

Insects without wings, or Aptera. 

Red Cotton Bug. — Baccareum. An insect that pierces the capsule of 
the cotton, enters the seed and deposits its egg. The seed emits an oil 
from the hole that stains the floss of the cotton, of a yellow brown color. 
Sometimes the capsule dies, but more frequently survives in a sickly state 



72 INSECTS. 

Mite Red Bug. — Londicorreus. Is too small to be observed by the naked 
eye. It resides on old rotten wood and moss. They crawl over a person 
in myriads, insinuating themselves under the skin, and raising large burn- 
ing blotches, which produce an inveterate itching. The best remedy is 
immediately to bathe in salt water or spirits. 

Sea Tick. — Sanguineus. Are confined to a few locations. 

Wood Tick. — Ovino. These are frequent in all the unsettled parts of 
the territory. 

Cheese Mite. — Siro. Itch Mite. — Exulcerons. Very rare in Florida. 

Spider. — Aranea. There are many kinds. 

Silk Spider. — A. Flavia. About the size of a pigeons egg. He extends 
strong lines of yellow silk, to a great distance, from tree to tree. It is so 
strong that small birds have been caught and held by it. 

Giant Spider. — Gigantea. Covers four inches of ground, with its 
sprawling hairy legs. His bite is poisonous, but not mortal ; the inflamma- 
tion usually subsides in a few hours. 

Crab Spider. — A. cancer. This unusual insect is found near the sea-coast. 
The orange tree is his favorite residence. He bears a shell similar to a crab, 
dark mottled brown on the back, and yellow underneath. Each side is 
armed with three red spikes. 

House Spider. A. labarinthicus. 

Water. A. fimbreata. 

Black. A. halorisiea. 

Wanderer. A. viatica. 

Field. A. graminia. 

Flea, pulex. Abundant in the new settlements in dry hammock lands. 
They are innumerable about the beds of hogs and dogs. In our houses, 
soap suds and the broom are effectual remedies, but require frequent 
application. 

Chigoe. — Jigger A species of flea, confined to a few places in the Terri- 
tory. It enters the skin of the feet, forms a little bag, in which it deposites 
numbers of eggs ; as they increase in size, the bag extends to the size of a 
pea. They inflame the flesh and produce excruciating itching. To cure 
the part, the bag must be carefully extracted. If broken, each egg, too 
small to be seen, produces a new ulcer. 

Scorpion. — scorpio. Found in various parts. The large brown kind are 
sometimes three inches long. The smaller kind are lighter colored, and 
usually live in the ground, or under boards, on old wood. Their bite in- 
flames the part affected, but has never proved dangerous. 

Barnacle. — L. antifera and L. narialis. These are most destructive in- 
sects to all water craft. They often, in a few months time, reduce the 



All these kinds are innocent, 
and not numerous. 



73 



bottom of a vessel to a honey-comb. Vessels are preserved for a short time, 
by paying them over with tar and brimstone. But coppering is the only 
effectual remedy. The mangrove and the cabbage-palm resist their attack. 

BIRDS. 

There are many birds in Florida, distinguished for the brilliancy of their 
plumage ; and some that are excellent food. But there are fine songsters 
besides the Mocking Bird. 

The Wild Turkey, meleagiis Americana, stands at the head of the fes- 
tive board, and is abundant in most of the new settlements. 

The Water Turkey, ichthyophagus, is less than the wild turkey, and 
usually of a darker color. It is supposed to be the Ibis of the Egyptians. 
It haunts the streams and lakes of the interior. These birds usually sit 
over the water on some pendant limb, from which they suddenly drop, when 
disturbed, and sink to the bottom, where they may be seen walking, if the 
water be clear. Their flesh is very good eating. 



Bald Eagle. 
Fishing Eagle. 
Hen Hawk. 
Chicken Hawk. 
Pigeon Hawk. 
Marsh Hawk. 
Horned Owl. 
Whooping Owl. 
Screech Owl. 



Falco leucephelus. 



F. 
F. 
F 
F. 
F. 



piscatoreus. 

gallinareus. 

pullenareus. 

columbarea. 

raniverius. 
Strix areticus. 
S. acclamator. 
S. assio. 

[The owl is more numerous in the northern, than in the southern parts 
of Florida.] 

Vultur. aurea. 
V. atratus. 
Cerrus camiverous. 
C. martimus. 
C. ferugireous. 
C. floridamus. 



Turkey Buzzard. 

Carion Crow. 

Raven. 

Rook. 

Small Crow. 

Florida Jay. 

Jackdaw. 

Crow Blackbird. 

Bob of Lincoln. 

Paroquet. 

Whiteback Woodpecker. 

Red Crested. 

Red bellied. 

Speckled. 

Yellow bellied. 

Id 



Granda quiscula. 
G. purpurea. 

oriole. 
Psitticus carolinaensis. 
Picus principalis. 
P. pillatus. 
P. carolinus. 
P. pubescens. 
P. varius. 



74 BIHDS. 

Nuthatch. P. varia ventre. 

Brown Creeper. Cenlhia rufa. 

Pine Creeper. C. pinus. 

King Fisher. Aludo alion. 

Humming- Bird, trochilus calubris. We have two other kinds of the 
humming bird, very small, but very beautiful. 

Butcher Bird. — lanius garrullus. 

Wren. — muscitapa cantatrix. We have three other kinds of flycatchers. 

Pigeon. — columbo migratore. This kind are not so numerous in general, 
as the turtle dove, and ground dove. 

Meadow Lark. — alauda. 

Robin. — turdus migratoreus. Seen here only in winter. 

Mocking Bird. — T. pollyglottis. These incomparable singers, are nu- 
merous in every part of Florida. 

Cedar Bird. — amphillis garrujjus. 

Quail. — tetrao minor. 

Grossbeak. — loxia rastro. 

Sparrow. — passen palustris. There are two other kinds. The house 
sparrows are numerous. 

Red Bird. — merula merilandica. The loxia cardinalis is also found 
here, but is less in size, and by no means so fine a singer as the merula. 

Tewe. — fringilla. There are four kinds of fringilla. 

Cowpen bird. — S. stercatoreus 

Blue Bird. — motacilla sialis. There are four kinds of motacilla. 

Yellow Bird. — parreus luteus. A species of Rice Bird. 

Swallow. — hirundo. There are four or five kinds, of which the Martin 
is most admired. 

Night Hawk. — caprimulgus Americanus. 

Nocturnal Goatsucker. — C. Europeus. 

Muckawis. — C. rufus. This bird resembles the Whippoorwill in every 
thing but his note. 

Sandhill Crane.— Grus pratensis. This bird inhabits the pine barrens, 
and feeds on grass seeds and insects. They are usually found in small flocks, 
or in pairs. Vast flocks of them collect on the coast, or the gravelly bank of 
some river, to spend the night. They usually stand close together near 
the water. Each small party as they arrive, in the dusk of the evening, 
give a cry, which is answered by those at the place of rendezvous. They 
are three feet high ; of a cinerous grey color. They are generally very 
fat, and are superior eating to a turkey. They are noisy birds, and appa- 
rently very intelligent. 

Heron. — Andrea herodias. There are several kinds ; the grey, white, 



BIRDS. 75 

large and small crab-catcher, frog catcher, grey bittern, blue bittern and 
poke. 

Spoonbill. — Platalea ajaja. This bird is of a peachblow color ; a little 
smaller than the sea curlew, with which it often associates. They are ex- 
cellent eating. They rarely appear north of Musquito Lagoon on the east 
or the Fresh Water Keys on the west side of the Peninsula. 

Black Winged Pellican. — Tantalus loquator. 

White Curliew. — T. alba. 

Screamer. — T. Pictus. 

Godwit. — Numerous. White and red breasted. There is besides six 
or seven kinds, some of them peculiar to this coast. 

Tring. — Tringa rufa. Of this species there are seven kinds, perhaps 
more. 

Dotterel. — Morinella. 

Goose. — Anser. There are four species of geese found here during win- 
ter. They are usually fat and well flavored. 

Duck. — Anas. There is a great variety of ducks. In some of the in- 
land lakes acres of water are covered with them. Their flavor is as various 
as their plumage. 

Cormorant. — Calymbus floridanus. These birds are extremely nume- 
rous in the Gulf of Mexico. 

Loon. — C. murienus. Is not so common as the pied diver. Both are 
found in salt and fresh water. 

Tropic Bird. — Phaeton Athenius. 

Gull. — Laurus. Very numerous. Three or four species. 

Sea Pellican. — Onoratus Americanus. 

Petrel. — Petrilla pintada. 

Sheerwater. — Rynchops niger. 

Man of War Bird. — Aquilus. Always soars high in the air during a 
gale. 

Plover. — Atraradnus. Of these there is the kildear, spotted plover and 
ring-neck. 

Oyster Bird. — Ostrealegus. 

Coot. — Fulia floridana. 

Widgeon. — Bullus Virginianus. 

Water Rail. — R, aquateous. and Brown Rail. 

Flamingo. — Phoeniropterus ruber. This elegant bird is seen in large 
flocks, south of the 28th degree of north latitude, particularly on the Gulf 
side of the peninsula. They are more rare on the eastern coast. They 
stand from 4 to 5 feet high ; this height being equally divided between the 
neck, the body, and the legs. Their color is a beautiful crimson when full 



76 PRODUCTIONS OF THE SOIL. 

grown. The young ones are paler ; the under side of their wings are 
black. They have a large, crooked, and clumsy bill ; the rest of their 
proportions are slender and graceful. In flying, their legs form a right line 
with their necks. While ranged on the shore, they resemble files of soldiers 
in uniform. They are excellent food. 

PRODUCTIONS OF THE SOIL. 

These vary with the soils that produce them. They may be compre- 
hended under five heads ; — pine-barrens, uplands, hammocks, swamps, and 
marshes. If we estimate the quantity of land at 10,560,000 acres, and 
deduct one-fourth part for bays, lakes, rivers, &c, there will remain 
7,920,000. Of this quantity, two-thirds, or 5,280,000 acres may be cov- 
ered with pine barrens ; 800,000 with tillable upland ; 600,000 with ham- 
mocks ; 500,000 with swamp ; and 400,000 with marsh. 

PINE BARRENS. 

The pine barrens are composed, principally, of silicious sand, more or less 
mixed with calcareous and vegetable matter, and often divested of every 
fertilizing principle, by the frequent fires which run over them. Barrens 
are found on the sea coast, and on the ridges, between the large water 
courses. All the lands covered with pine timber, are by no means barren ; 
on the contrary*, some of the best uplands are wholly, or nearly all, cover- 
ed with yellow pines. And some of the burnt barrens will not produce 
even pine or scrub oaks, but are usually partially covered with clumps of 
savin. West of Cape St. Bias, the sands are usuallv of a pure white ; 
east of that point, they become more colored, and of course, more fertile. 
Very few trees grow on this soil ; those most frequent, are, 

Pine, pitch. Pinus rigida— a low, poor timbered tree, but produces turpen- 
tine and tar. 

Pine, many cored. Pinus seratina— a useless tree, found on the banks of 
lakes and lagoons. 

Pine, loblolly. Pinus ta?da— a large tree, in valleys, has much sap. 

Pine, yellow. Pinus palustris— this is a large and most useful tree ; it is 
the principal timber used for plank and scantling in the southern states ; 
and also produces turpentine and tar. 

Oak, high willow. Gluercus cinera — on barren hills. 

Black Jack. Gluercus nigra— on the poorest sand ridges— excellent fire- 
wood. 

Andromeda. A. rigida— on the edges of savannas and streams. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 77 



Shrubs. 



Shallow Cup. Quercus pumilla — round the borders of hammocks. 

Live-oak shrub. Q,. maratima — near the sea coast, very fruitful. 

Holly-leaved. Q,. ilicifolia, do. the branches often 

bent to the ground with acorns, excellent for swine. 

Hickory grubs. Juglans tormentosa — the better kind of barrens. 

Haw, winter. Cratagus parvaflora — ridges, fruit green or yellow, eatable. 

Haw, summer. C. fiava — sea islands and dry plains. 

C. apafolia — edges of savannas and streams. 

Azalea. A. Bicolor and nudifiora, do. do 

Chinquapin. Castanea nana — dry ridges, edge of hammocks ; nuts fine. 

Andromeda. A. feruginea — dry ridges, edge of hammocks. 

Huckleberry. Vaccineum myrsinites — dry ridges, berry small, black. 

Whortleberry. V. staminium — dry ridges, berry larger. 

V. dumosum — plains, dark purple. With several other va- 
rieties. 

Blueberry. V. frondosum — damp fiat plains, berry blue. 

V. glaucum, do. larger fruit, on a smaller shrub. 

Herbs are abundant, to wit : — 

Wild Sunflower. Helianthes atranubus — pine woods. 
H. pubescens — banks of streams. 
H. mollis — ridges. 

H. hispidulus — ridges and sandy plains. 
H. tormentosus — do. 
H. decapitatus — do. 
Goldenrod. Salidago reflecta — ridges. 

S. laterifolia — pine woods. 
S. pyrimidata, do. 
S. bicolor, plains. 

S. pulverulenta, do. 
S. elata, do. 

Aster. A. ericoides — dry ridges. 

A. squarosus — pine woods. 
A. concolor, do. 

A. surculasus, do. 
A. undulatus, do. 

A. cenearefoleus, do. There are numerous other species. 
Dittany. Cunila mariana, do. 
Wild Pennyroyal. A. pugloides, do. 
Woundwort. Stachys sylvatica — barren fields. 



78 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

S. hysopafolia — barren fields. 
S. aspera, do. 

Wild Mallows. Hvbiscus scaber, do. with five other species. 

Origanum. Monarde punctata, do. 

Spiderwort. Tradescanthia virginica, do. 
T. tripetalous, do. 
Wild Indigo. Baptista perfoliata, do. 

B. lanceolata — pine woods. 

B. tinctorea, do. this is a most valuable 

plant ; it produces the best indigo, with less trouble than any other of the 
species, and grows on the poorest soil. — much used in family dying. 
Agrimony. Eupatoreum alleum — barren plains. 
E. rotundifolium, do. 
E. linearifolium, do. 
E. fceniculasceum. do. 
Penstemon. P. pubescens — pine woods. 

P. la^vagatum, dof 

Chrysopsis. C. argentea — dry ridges. 

C. graminifolia, do. 

C. pinifolia, do. 

C. trychophylia, do. 

Ophrys. Neottia tortillis — sandy plains. 

Balsam Cuphilla. C. viscossima, do. 

Gerardia. G. linifolia — sandy plains, flower blossoms four months. 

G. purpurea. 
Scull cap. Scutelaria villosa — pine woods. 

S. pilosa, do. 

Silkweed. Asclepias phytolachoides — sandjr plains, and sea islands. 
This beautiful plant has already, by the French nation, been cultivated 
to advantage. The pappus is spun with raw silk for gloves, the juice 
collected for opium, and the leaf used in dying. 

Asclepias connivens — sandy plains and sea islands. 
A. obtusifolia, 
A. amplexicoides, 
A. lanifolia, 
A. tuberosa, 
Violet. "Viola villosa. 
Button Root. Eryngia. 
Lupin. Lupinus perennis — pine woods. 

L. villosus, do. with three other species. 

Glycine. G. argentosa — dry plains. 
G. peduncularis, do. 



do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 


do. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 79 

Sensitive plant. Mimosa sensitiva — dry plains. 
White Lilly. Crinum — pine woods. 
Nightbeile. Ipomea bona nox, do. 
Sand Lilly. Convolvulus spithamacus — dry plains. 

C. obtusilobus, do. and sea islands. 

Granadilla. Passiflora incarnata, do. 

P. lutea, do. 

Phlox. P. parviculatus do. 

P, pyramidalis, do. 

P. glaberima — damp plains. 
Verbena. V. corymbosa. 
V. urticiflora. 
Graphalum. G. purpureum. 
Annona. A grandiflora. 
Ruellia. R. strepens. 

R. oblongafolia. 
Salvia. S. graviolens. 

S. lyrata. 
Prenanthus. P. virgata. 

P. alba. 
Chrysomachia. C. acaulis. 
Galega: G. chrysophylla. 
Hypoxis. H. folafilia. 
Comelina. C. erecta. 
Black root. Pychnastaticum. 
Blackberry. Rubus villosus. 
Dewberry. R. cunefolius. 

R. trivialis. 
Strawberry. Fragaria virginiana. 
White do. F. canadensis. 
Tormentilla. T. officinalis. 
Wood-anemony. A. nemorosa. 

Vines. 

Muscadine grape. Vitis rotundefolia — heads of small streams, thick skin. 

Briar, China. Smilax China — grows every where, but best in damp soils, 
near streams. It often extends one hundred feet ; the root is similar to 
a cluster of potatoes. The Indians grate them, or bruize them in a large 
wooden mortar, then throw on water, strain the starch through baskets, 
dry and pulverize it ; the color is a reddish brown. They mix it with 
fine homony, and make cakes ; with honey and warm water, it becomes 
a fine jelly ; toasted and mixed with sweet milk, it is a delicious food. 



80 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

S. Ovata. 
S. Caduca. 
Morning-glory. Convolvulus purpureus : — variegated with purple and blue. 

0. dracrorhizus — with twenty other species. 
Cypress vine. Ipomea coccinea — a beautiful scarlet flower. 
. I. nil — a rich coclico flower. 
I. dissecta — all found in middle Florida. 
Traveller's Joy. Clematis holoserica. 
C. walteri. 
C. reticulata. 
Crimson woodbine. Loniccra sempervirens. 
Yellow do. L. flavium. 

L. parvaflora. 
Climbing Ivy. Cissus hederocea. 
Yellow Jessamine. Gelseminum sempervirens — dry plains. 

The grasses are also numerous ; there are very few spots, indeed, of pine 
barren, that arc not covered with grass : in many dry ridges, the heat of the 
summer kills the stem, while the roots remain entire ; and fire is thought 
to improve its growth ; the herdsmen, accordingly, fire the barrens, at re- 
gular seasons. Deer, as well as cattle, may always be found on places re- 
cently burnt over. 

Twisted Xyris. X. flexuosa — flat grounds. 
X. fimbricata. 
X. brevefolia. 
Rough-head Fucrina. F. squarosa — flat grounds. 
Rush-like F. scirpoida — savanna edges. 

Killingia. K. pumila, do 

Rhynchospera. R. plumosa — dry plains. 
Schoenus. S. Sparsus — pine woods. 

Nut grass. Cyperus hydra — on cultivated sandy land, and almost every 
place ; it is the greatest curse to planters ; the Riband cane is said to 
keep it down, but nothing has been found to eradicate it. The root is 
fibrous like horse hairs, strung at a few inches apart with tubers of the 
size of a rifle ball, which descend into the sand, in every direction, 
frequently to the depth of five feet. 
C. compressus. 
C. mariscoides. 
C. odoratus. 
C. distans — pine woods. 
Mariscus. M. retrofractus — sandy plains. 
Scirpus. S. Capellaceus— dried savannas, forms a close carpet soft as silk. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 81 

S. autumnalis — savanna edges. 
S. ferugineus — pine woods. 

S. exaltatus, do. grows to a great height — ten feet. 
S. lineatus, do. 

S. divaricatus. 
White button. Duchromena leucocephala — wet barrens. 

D. ciliata, do. 

Cockspur. Cenchrus tribuloides — old sandy uncultivated fields. 
Low cane. Arundinarea tecta — around spring heads. 

Muhlenbergia erecta — pine woods. 
Fringed Aulaxantbus. A. ciliatus — ridges. 

A. rufus. 
Fringed Paspalum. P. ciliatifolium — old fields which have been cultivated. 

P. floridanum. 
Smooth Panic grass. P. kevigatum — ridges. 

P. glaucum. 
Cocksfoot. P. grus-galli — round savannas. 

P. hians. 
Broad-leaved Panic grass. P. latifolium — pine woods. 

P. amarum — sand ridges. 
P. ciliatum — wet barrens, evergreen. 
P. divergens — sand hills. 
Crab Grass. Digitaria sanguinalis. 
Bermuda grass. U. dactylon — these, as well as P. divergens, ought to 

be cultivated : these in dry, that in wet soils. 
Silky Agrostis. A. senicea — sand hills — may be cultivated wherever 
there is calcareous matter in the soil. 

A. trichopodes — sand hills. 
A. juncea — sand hills, not fit for hay. 
Purple Aristida. A. spiciformis, do 

Wooly do A. lanosa, do do 

Fringed Andropogon. A. ciliatus. do. if mown early, the hay is tolerable, 

but coarse. 
Nodding Andropogon. A. nutans — finer. 

A. purpurea — stem coarse, few leaves. 
A. argentus, do 

Broom Grass. Lateralis — tall, coarse, and often used for sweeping. 
Purple Aira. A. purpurea. — sea islands. 
Hairy Poa. P. hirsuta — old fields. 
Green do P. viridis, do 

11 



82 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

P. nitida, do 

Rough do P. rigida — pine woods. 
Purple do quinquefida — makes excellent hay. 
Oat grass. Uniola paniculata — sea islands. 

U. gracillis — pine woods. 
Slender Fescue. Festuca tenella— barren plains. 

F. parvaflora — pine woods. 
Hairy do F. mycinus — ridges. 

F. nutans — most common in the barrens. 
Crows Foot. Eleusine indica — old fields, an exotic probably. 
Tooth-ache Grass. Monocera aromatica. — This is a singular grass ; it 
has a naked stalk four feet high, spikelets in two close rows, on one side 
of the stem, at top ; straight when young, but bends with age, and final- 
\y curling in a spiry coil. It affects the breath and milk of cows, who 
eat it when young and tender. The root is bitter, and affects the salivary 
glands. 

UPLANDS. 

Uplands are formations of clay, which arise gradually on the subtending 
limestone ; they usually commence about twenty miles from the coast. 
The first stratum of clay is usually white ; red clay succeeds ; while the 
surface is covered with a mulatto or chocolate colored loam. The trees, on 
this soil, are abundant, and form the pleasantest groves imaginable. The 
following are most common. 
Oaks, Hemispherical. Quercus laurefolia. 

Q,. imbricaria. 

Black. Q.. tinctoria. 

Red. Q,. coccinea. 

Yellow. Q,. rubra. 

Spanish. Q.. falcata ; triloba. 

Post. Q,. obtusiloba 

White. Q.. alba — the most useful tree in America. 

Yellow Pine. Pinus palustris. 

Black Hickory. Juglans nigra. 

Thick shelled do. J. sulcata. 

J. torment oso — the common Hickory of Florida. 

Magnolia. M. grandiflora. 

Umbrella Tree. M. tripetala. 

Yellow Poplar. Liriodendron tulipifera. 

Dogwood. Cornus Florida. 

Wild Cherry. Cerassus virginiana. 

Persimmon. Diospyros virginiana. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 83 

Holly. Ilex opaca. 

Sassafras. Laurus sassafras. 

Mulberry. Moms rubra. 

White do. M. alba, or pubescens. 

Black Gum. Nyssa sylvatica. 

Sorrel tree. Andromeda arborea. 

Catalpa. C. bignonia. 

Scarlet maple. Acer rubrum. 

Plumb, red and yellow. Prunus chicasa. 

Annona. Asimina triloba, or Pawpaw. 

Gordonia. G. lacianthus. 

Hopea. H. tinctoria. 

White Locust. Robinia pseud acacia. 
R. viscosa. 

Beach. Fagus sylvatica. 

Chestnut. Castenea vesca. 
Birch, white. Betula alba. 
Iron wood. Carpinus ostrya. 
Sycamore. Platanus occidentalis. 
White Ash. Fraxinus epiptora. 
F. triptera. 
Honey Locust. Gleditschia triacanthos. 

The uplands produce few shrubs ; the following are found about spring 
heads, banks of rivers, lakes, and savannas : 
Annana. A. grandiflora. 

A pygmea. 
Lantana. L. camara. 
Stratia. S. virginica. 
Hopea. H. pumila. 
Shrub Locust. Robinea hispida. 
Baccharis. B. Halimifolia. 
Carylus. C. americana. 
Chinquapin. Castanea pumila. 
Myrtle. Myrica cerifera — rare. 
Prickley Ash. Zanthoxilon tricarpium. 
Service Berry, Prinos verticilatus. 
White Fringe tree. Chionanthus virginica. 
Azalea. A visciosa — rare. 
Hydrangea. H. Nivea — on limestone rocks. 



84 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

The herbs, vines, and grasses, on the hammocks, are many of them si- 
milar, but of more numerous species than those on the uplands ; the same 
classes of trees and shrubs also grow on the hammocks, but there is also a 
greater variety of species ; those which are common to both, will there- 
fore not be again enumerated ; but such as are peculiar to the hammocks 
will be noted. 

Sweet Bay. Laurus borbonia. This tree produces timber inferior only to 
mahogany, which it closely resembles. The young leaves are often 
used for tea, which is a most pleasant and healthful beverage. Cattle 
eat the herbage with avidity. 
Pond Spicewood. L. geniculata. 
American Olive. Olea americana. 
Spotted Haw. Fothergillia punctata. 

F. coccinea. 
Cabbage Palm. Chaemarops palmetto. — The greatest ornament of our 
sea coast ; they sometimes rise on a straight column eighty feet. The 
foot stalks of the old branches enclose the trunk like a coarse net work. 
The timber resists the Gulf worm, so destructive to vessels. Hats, bas- 
kets, mats, &c. are manufactured from the leaves. The embryo head is 
excellent food* Bears and other animals feed on the berries. Confined 
to the coast and islands ; not seen farther west than St. Andrew's Bay. 
Cotton Tree. Populus grandidentata. 

P. angulata. 
Juniper. Juniperus alba. 
Red Cedar. J. virginiana. 

Sweet Gum. Liriodendron styraciflua — rivers, hammocks. 
Live Oak. Ouercus virens. 
Cettis. C. occidentalis. 
Mulberry. Morus rubra. 

M. alba. 
Saponaria. Sapindus saponaria. 
Sidiroxelon. Bumelia lycoydes. 

B. languinosa. 
Halesia. H. tetraptera. 

SHRUBS. 

Azalea. A. calendulacia — the most beautiful native shrub of Florida. 
Flame colored, pink, yellow, streaked and mottled,, with every interme- 
• diate shade. 

*On removing the large branches the cabbage is discovered lying - in many thin, white, 
brittie flakes, which taste like unripe chestnuts. It should be boiled in two waters ; the first 
thrown away. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 85 

Haw. Crataegus grus galli. 
C. lucida. 
C. flava. 
Salicifolia. Spinasa salicifolia. 
S. tomentosa. 
Andromeda. A. axillaris. 
A. acuminata, 
A. mariana. 
Hammock Berries. Vaccinium myrtilloides — about the size of a cherry, 

usually grows near streams; ten feet high. 
Clethera. C. tomentosa. 
Styrax. S. grandifolium. 
S. lave. 
S. glabrum. 
Hydrangia. H. quercifolia. 

Annana. A. incarnata — five feet high, flowers large, white, many on a 
large panicle ; fruit size of a small cucumber ; pulp yellow, and tastes 
like custard. 
Sumach. Rhus vernix. 

Sensitive Shrub. Mimosa eburnea — the first plant which grows on the 
sea sand ; excellent for hedges and ornament. 

Herbs. 

Scull Cap. Scutilaria hysopifolia. 

Blue do. S. laterifolia. 

Coral Tree. Erythrina herbacea. 

E. coralodendron. 
Cassia. Sesbania macrocarpa. 
Senna. C. marylandica. 

C. tora. 

C. occidentalis. 

C. ligustrina. 

C. aspera. 
Lindernia. L. dilatata. 
Bellwort. Uvularia sessilafolia. 

U. perfoliata. 
Fairy Flax. Houstonia ccerulea. 
Star of Bethlehem. Hypoxis electa. 
Slender Lobelia. L. kalmia. 
Indian Tobacco. L. inflata. 



86 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

Ladies traces. Neottia tortillis. 
Domestic Ipecacuanha. Gillenia trifoliata. 
Scabious. Erigeron philadelphicum. 

E. hederophyllum. 
Asclepias. A. tuberosa. 
Pentstemon. P. pubescens. 
Starwort. Aster lineafolium. 

A. solidaginoides. 

A. flexuosus. 

A. sparsiflorus. 

A. reticulatus. 

A. virgatus. 
Bird Pepper. Capsicum minium. 
Turnera cistoides. 

Wild Sunflower. Helianthus truncatus. 
H. longifolius. 
H. multiflorus. 
Annemona. A. thalictroides. 
Milkwort. Polygala purpurea. 
Pogonia. P. verticillata. 

Smilacina. S. canadensis. 
Cancer Root. Orobanche virginica. 

O. unifolia. 
Wormseed. Chenopodium anthelminticum. 
Lamb's Quarter. C. alleum. 

C. botrys. 
C. ambrossoides. 
Poke. Phytolacca decandria. 
Sheep Sorrel. Oxalis acetosilla. 
Spanish Moss. Tilandsia usneoides. 
Indian Agave. A. virginiana. 
Ground Sorrel. Rumex acetosa. 
Jimpson. Stramoneum datura. 
Phlox. P. Carolina. 

P. uniflora. 
Broad Thistle. Sonchus macrophyllus. 
Cotton do. S. oleraceous. 

Narrow leaf. S. floridanus. 

Small yellow. S. carolinianus. 

Milk Thistle. S. accuminatus. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 87 

Wild Baum. Melissa. 
Golden Rod. Solidago reflexa. 
S. laterifolia. 
S. rugosa. 
S. villosa. 
S. ulmifolia. 
Tarragon. Artemissia caudata. 
Wild Parsnip. Sison trifoliatum. 
Ranunculus. R. recurvatus. 
R. muricatus. 
Wild Fennel. Antherim finiculeum. 

Poppy. Papaver — white and yellow, petals four, stamens many, pistil 
one, leaves jagged and thorny, sap a yellow juice somewhat corrosive ; 
these plants are new to me, and although very common on the shores 
and old fields, it is doubtful whether they are not exotics naturalized. 
Mallows. Malvus virginicus. 
M. militaris. 
M. speciosus. 
Water Cress. Sisymbrium nasturtium. 

S. .amphibium. — This plant is found on sea 
islands in other respects barren, and on the shore ; the sands often drift 
over it, but it shoots through again ; it is a delicious and most healthy 
herb, especially in scrobutic affections. 
White nettle. Urtica alba. 

U. pumila. 
Domestic Euphorbium. E. cordifolia. 

E, polygonifolia. 
E. gracilis. 
E. helioscapia. 
E. paniculata. 
Aurantium. A. coccinia. 
Veronica. V. angustifolia. 

V. praealta 
Eupatoreum. E. foeniculaceum. 
E. coronopifolium. 
E. hysopifolium. 
E. aromaticum. 
E. ccelestinum. 
Graphalium. G. polycephalum. 
G. purpureum. 
G. plantaginum. 



88 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

Senecio. S. hieracifolium. 

S. suaviolens. 
Chrysopsis. C. pinafolia. 
Verbesina. V. sinuata. 
Cancer Weed. Salvia lyrata. 

S. coccinia. 

S. azurea. 

S. aborata. 
Madwort Alyssum. halifalius — common. 
Jacobean Lilly. Amaranthus formassissima — wet pine lands. 

Vines. 

Fox grape. Vitis vulpina. 
V. cordifolia. 
V. riparia. 

V. aestivalis — usually cultivated for arbors, it is also a good 
wine grape. 
Bignonia. B. radicans. 

B. crucigera. 
Rhus. R. radicans. 
Poison Vine. R. toxicodendron. 
Crimson Woodbine. Caprifolium sempervirens. 
Yellow do. C. flavum. 

Supple Jack. Rhamnus volubilis — Twisted walking canes of this vine 
are much admired. 

R. carolinianus. 
Yellow Bell Flower. Convolvulus obtusilobus 

C. panduratus. 
Jpomea. I. coccinea. 

I. tricocarpa. 
Ivy Vine. Cessus hederacea. 
Yellow Jessamine. Gelsemum sempervirens. 
Yellow Echites. E. diformis. 
Aristolachea. A. tomentosa. 
Purple Thyrsa. Thyrsanthus frutescens. 



These may be divided into three kinds. First, those formed on the bor- 
ders of rivers, by inundation ; these are the richest swamps, and most ex- 
tensive. They are usually separated from the stream by a ridge of dry 
land, formed by the heaviest parts of the alluvial matter, which is deposited 
immediately after leaving the current ; this ridge, or natural embankment, 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 89 

prevents the waters from draining off, as the surface of the rivers subside. 
They are, usually, densely covered with heavy timber, and this tangled 
with innumerable vines, which renders them almost impenetrable. Second- 
ly, pine barren swamps, which are natural basins, containing the waters of 
the surrounding country. These swarnps, when covered with small coast 
cypress trees and knees, are usually, but improperly, termed cypress galls. 
Cypress knees are hollow cones, which rise from roots of the cypress tree, 
from one to six feet high, and terminate in a blunt point. These never shoot 
up into trees, as has been imagined, from the circumstance of large cypresses 
being supported on hollow cones, similar in appearance ; in the latter case, 
the tree first grows up straight, and the cone gradually swells out under- 
neath it, as high as the highest stage of the water. Savannas are no more 
than natural reservoirs of water like the swamps ; except that they are cov- 
ered with grass and herbs instead of trees and vines ; they are usually 
founded on clay or marie, but sometimes only on a hard sand. They are 
frequently extensive, and form excellent grazing lands. The third kind of 
swamps are those spongy tracts, where the waters continually ooze through 
the soil, and finally collect in streams and pass off. These are properly 
termed galls, sometimes sour, sometimes bitter lands. They arc the coldest 
soils we have, and the waters arising through them are frequently impreg- 
nated with sulphur, vitriol, and iron. When their foundation is alluvial 
matter, it is usually very thin, like quagmire : the land may be shaken for 
acres in extent. When the base is sand, it is always a lively quicksand, 
very dangerous for cattle. These galls are usually covered with titi and 
other andrornedas, loblolly and other laurels, vacciniums and vines. 

The trees most peculiar to swamps, are, 
Cypress. Cupressus disticha. — A large and beautiful tree, often rising one 

hundred feet, makes excellent boards, scantling, palings, and shingles. 
Pine barren do. C. imbricarea. 

Swamp Ash. Fraxinus epiptera. 
White do. F. acuminata. 

Oval-leaved. F. platycarpa. 

Black. F. pubescens. — Red ash in ponds. 

Willow Oak. Q,uercus phellos. 
Water do. Q,. aquatica. 

Lyre-leaved. Q.. lyrata. 

Chestnut do. Q,. prinos. 

Velutinian. Q,. michauxii. 

Pignut. Juglans porcena. 
Tupelo. Nyssa unifolia, 

12. 



90 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

Ogechee Lime. N. capitata. 
N. aquatica. 
Loblolly. Laurus carolinaensis — grows in every kind of swamp, from ten 

to seventy feet high ; the beauty and aroma of its flower is well known. 
Swamp Magnolia. M. glauca. 
Swamp Poplar. Populus angulata — river swamp. 
Whohao. Ulmus alata — high pine barren. 
Bumelia. B. lycoides — galls. 
Plane Tree. Planera gmelini — grows in river swamps, and resembles 

elm. 
Soap Tree. Sapindus saponaria, do. near the sea coast. 
Winter Plumb. Prunus hiemalis, do. back from the coast 
Gordonia. G. lasianthus i do. 

Shrubs. 

Buttonwood. Cephalanthus occidentalis — near the Atlantic coast. 

Swamp Dogwood, Cornus canadensis. 

Amorpha. A frutescens — river swamps. 

Strawberry Tree. Euonimus americanus, do. borders of streams 

Viburnus. Viburnum dentatum, do. swamps 

Swamp Haw. V. nudum, do. do. 

Sambucus. S. canadensis — deep inland swamps. 

Laurel. Laurus millisafolium, do. and in bay galls. 

Andromeda. A. axillaris. 
A. acuminata. 
A. ligustrina. 
A. racemosa. 
A. speciosa. 

Sorrel Tree. A. arborea. 

Titi. A. angustifolia. — this class furnishes most of the shrubs found in 
our swamps ; the titi, in particular, occupies the same situation south of 
Georgia that the alder does in the northern states. It grows from six to 
twelve feet high ; the stoles are slender and set so thickly together that 
their shade keeps the small streams cool for a great distance from their 
fountains. In March, their racemes of white flowers are abundant and 
very ornamental, and their singular strings of three cornered seeds often 
hang on the bushes till winter. 

Billberry. Vaccinium corymbosum. 
V. virgatum. 

Spice wood. Laurus benzoin. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 91 

Herbs. 
Bird Shot. Carina indica — river swamps. 
Herbaceous Cnnna. C. salicornia — savannas. 
Spring Callitriche. C. callitriche — bay galls. 
Virginian Gratiola. G. virginica — ditches. 
Yellow do. G. aurea — pine barren swarnps. 

Hairy do. G. pilosa — near swamps. 

Round Fruit. G. sphserocarpa — lake shores, and savannas. 

G. quadridentala, do. 
Square-stemmed. G. tetragona, do. 

Lindernia. L. dilatata, do. 

L. attenuata, do. 

Round Micranthemum. M. orbiculatum, do. 
Big-leaved do. M. emarginatum, do. 

Floating Utriculare. U. inflata, do. in still water, fresh. 

Purple do. U. saccata, do. 

Yellow do. U. longirostris, do. 

Small do. U. biflora, do. 

Bristle. stalked. U. setacca — pine barren swamps and savannas. 

Narrow-leaved Lycopus. L. europius, do. 
Sallop-leaved do. L. sinuatus, do. 

Blue Tripterella. T. ccerulea, do. 

Variegated Iris. I. versicolor, do. the root is a remedy for 

dropsy. White Iris. I. alba. 
Three-petaled. I. tripetala, do. rare. 

Blue. I. hexagona — rich river swamps. 

Yellow Tricoma. Lachranthes tinctoria — pine barren swamps and ponds. 
Creeping Comelina. C. communis, do. 

Blue do C. longifolia, do. 

Moss-leaved Syena. S. fluviatilis — bay galls. 
Proserpina. Proserpinaca palustris, do. 

P. pectinata do. and savannas. 
Coonta. Zamia integrafolia — south of 29° 30' in rich pine lands, all the 

way to the Capes. 
Tetragon. Diorea tetragona — galls. 
Three-leaved Galium. G. trifidum, do. 

Centaurella. C. verna, do. 

C. paniculata, do. and swamps. 

Sanguisorba. S. canadensis, do. 

S. media. 



92 VEGETAELE PRODTTCTIOKS. 

Potamogiton. P. pinnatum — stagnar/. 

P - . m, do. 

VillarBia. V baeliyapemM« do. 

Lysimachia. L. eXafa — oaft. 
v, P. fivancati — i eri is 

Cardinal flower. Lobelia cardinalis. do. beautiful scarlet. 

L. am ana. do. blue. 
Pinckneya. P. pubens — gulls and savannas. 
Solanum. S ■ a — anas. 

unoeum — low swamps. 
Swamp Milkweed. AadefH aa, do. scarlet flo m 

H/irolea. ELquadcan - — galk. 

H --; do. 

Erynguim. E rV.-dum. do. 

E padki, 
Hy — stagnar. • 

H .mbellata — swamps. 
Wild Annise. Ammi copilla'. — _;dls. 

A. fpa*attww EW5." 

Cicuia. C maculata, do. 

Sundew Drasera. D. rotundifolia — galls. 

do. 
Spanish Mose. Tilandsia usneoides — swamps. 
T. lectin : do. 

.oee. Pontederia cordata — galls and savannas. 
an. P. meneaauai — savannas and swamps. 
Smooth Pair, e - —galls near the sea shore. 

urns. Acorus calamus — muddy galls. 
I Typba latifolia. do. 

A. Juncus effusus — galls and savannas. 
J. setaceus, do. 

J. triflorus — river swamp edges. 

J. : — ..as. 

Rumex- N. britarmicus. — shady swamps. 
i -juatica. do. 

na Lolly. Saururus cernuus — galls. 
K:.exea. R. virginica, do 

R. I 
Blue Scull-cap. Scutelaria laterifoha — swamps and galls, 
.gonuin. P. birsuturn, do. 

P. persecaria, do. and ponds. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 93 

P. mite. 
P. incarnatum. 
Penthorum. P. seoides — swamps and ponds. 
White Pond Lilly. Nymphfea odorata — in swamps, ponds, and ditches'. 

The root used by the natives to cure felons. 
Sarracena. S. purpuria — swamps, galls, and savannas. 
S. rubra, do. 

S. flava. 
S. variolis. — The leaf of this singular plant is a tube which 
v/idens towards the top in the two latter species ; in the two former, 
they are contracted near the top. The inside of the tube is covered with 
viscid hairs, which prevent insects from retreating, when once they have 
entered for shelter or food. They are always partly filled with insects. 
The leaf is beautiful, both as to shape and color, and the flower is of a 
deep gaudy redish brown, and remarkable for having two calyces. 
Hypericum. H. parvafiorum. 
H. ameerum. 
H. nudiflorum. 
H. glaucum. 
Elodea. E. virginica. 
Ranunculus. R. hederaceus. 
R. oblongafolius. 
R. nitidus. 
Caltha. C. ficoloides — swamps. 

C. brassera — ponds. 
Cyamus. C. luteus, or Yellow water Chestnut — ponds. The capsule con- 
tains from four to ten edible chestnuts — Hogs will swim in the water to 
obtain the fruit. 
Polygala. P. lutea — ponds and galls. 

P. corymbosa, do. 

Winged Dolichos. D. luteolus, do. 
Aromatic Liatris. L. odoratus — galls and savannas. 
Purple Veronica. V. oligophylla — edge of swamps. 
Eupatorium. E. perfoliatum, do. A decoction of tins plant 

operates as a gentle emetic. Indians use it as a sudorific in fevers. 
Conyza. C. marylandica. 
Black Root. Pterocaulon pychnastachum. — The famous Indian remedy 

for pulmonary disorders. 
Butter Weed. Senecio lobatus — swamps. 
Slender Aster. A. carolinianus, do. 
A. dracunculoides, do. 
Solidago. S. virgata, do. 



94 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

S. pulverulenta — swamps. 
Baltonia. B. asteroides, do. 

Heleneum. H. autumnale, do. 

H. quadridentatum, do. 
Yellow Bidcns. B. coreopsis — ditches and galls. 
Ghana. C. capitata, do. 

Duck-meat. Lemma minor — stagnant waters. Often covers the surface 

of the water in form of a green scum. 
Bristly Typha. T. latafolia, do. 

Sparganium. S. americanum, do. 

Carex. C. stipata — swamps. 

C. scirpoides, do. 

C. scoparia, do. 

C. crineta, do. 

C. trichocarpa, do. 

C furcata, do: 

Orchis. O. ciliaris, do. and galls. 

O. cristata, do. 
Calopogon. C. pulchellus, do. 
Sagittaria. S. sagittifolia, do. 

S. graminea — swamps and galls. 
Arum. A. dracontium, do. 

A. triphyllum, do. 

A. alba, do. 

Vines. 
Cissus. C. ampelopsis — swamps. 
Echites. E. diformis, do. 

Dolychos. D. luteolus, do. near salt water. On sand hills. 
Apios. A. tuberosa, do. This vine has numerous tubers of the 

size of hickory nuts. The Seminoles raised great quantities for food. 
Glycine. G. reflexa, do. 

Grape. Vitis labrusca — in all swamps. 
Muscadine. V. rotundifolia — edges of swamps. 
Smilax. S. pastata, do. very common 

Smooth Briar. S. bona nox. 

S. quadrangularis. 

S. walteri. 

S. sarsaparilla. 

S. pseudo china. 

S. caduca. — These briars cover wet lands of every descrip- 
tion. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 95 

Pistache. Amphicarpe monoica. — This is a singular plant, stem decum- 
bent, climbing angular, red at the base, light green above, branching, 
twenty inches to two feet long. They were greatly cultivated by 
the Seminoles, and are now much used by the Americans of West 
Florida. This vine produces a large crop on sandy land. They are 
baked or roasted in the shell, and are much used by the confectioners. 
The pistache is a native of Spain, from which it was, but a few years 
since, transferred to the gardens of France and Italy. With us it is per- 
fectly naturalized. 



Rhynchospora. R. cymosa — galls and savannas. 

R. distans, do. 

R. sparsa, do. 

Cyperus. C. articulatus, do. 

C. vegetus, do. 

Spanish Grass. C virens, do. 

Yellow Cyperus. C. flavescens, do. 

C. tenuiflorus, do. 

C. odoratus — edge of rivers. 

C. strigosus — galls and savannas. 

C. speciosus, do. 

C. enslenii, do. 
Scirpus. S. filiformis, do. 

S. validus — in lakes and ponds. 

S. minimus — galls and savannas. 
Fringe leaved. S. ciliatifolius — savannas. 
Dichromena. D. ciliata — margin of ponds and swamps. 

D. latifolia. 
Trichophorum. T. cyperinum — savannas. 
Cane. Arundenaria macrosperma. 

A. tecta — edge of swamps and marshes. 
Spring Trichodeum T. laxifiorum — swamps. 
Leersia. L. oryzoides, do. inland. 

Phalaris. P. americana, do. fresh and brackish. 

Early Paspalpum. P. precox, swamps. 

Joint Grass. P. distichum, do. 

Large Spiked Panicum. P. italicum, do. 

Cockfoot. P. grus-galli, do- 



96 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

Water Panicum. P. geniculatum — swamps. 

Compressed. P. anceps, do 

Sword-leaved. P. ensifolium — galls. 

Aira. A. palustris — swamps and savannas. 
Proserpinaca. P. palustris, do. 
P. pectinata, do. 
Arenarea. A. glabra, do. 

Liatris. L. tormentosa. do. 
Veronica. V. oligophyla, do. 
Awlwort. Sibularia aquatica — river swamps, and wet sea beach. 

MARSHES, 

Are of two kinds, fresh and salt. The former are usually situate on the 
borders of some large body of water, in the interior of the country. The 
latter on the sea coast, or near the estuaries of rivers. There is a great di- 
versity of marshes ; much depends on the substratum on which they are 
based. For instance, the most extensive marshes of West Florida are based 
on limestone, which renders them extremely fertile in aquatic vegetables ; 
some of the fresh marshes, on the contrary, are merely quicksands, covered 
with a very thin soil, and are of course quite barren. Others have a clay 
foundation, and may be cultivated to advantage* Marshes produce no 
trees ; a few shrubs sometimes skirt the edges of them. The salt marsh 
has been found to be an invaluable manure for our sandy soils. The herbs 
most common, are, 

Micranthemum. M. Orbiculatum — fresh marsh. 
Triptaleria. T. cffirulea, do. 

Creeping Comelina. C. communis, do. 
Convolvulus. C. sagittifolius — salt. 

C. repens, do. near the mouth of rivers. 

Marsh Rosemary. Statice limonium — salt marsh near the the shores. 
Pancratium. P. mexicanum — fresh. 
Dracocephalum. D. variegatum, do. 

Cardamine. C. pennsylvanica — salt — near the sandy shore. 
Pistia. P. spathulata — rivers and lakes in Florida. It floats on the sur- 
face, the roots hanging like threads in the water, and often forming float- 
ing islands. 
Sagittaria. S. lancifolia, do. 
Arum. A. virginicum, do. and fresh. 
Iresine. I. celosioides — salt and fresh. 
Acnida. A. rusocarpa — fresh. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 97 

Water Plantain. Alisma plantago — brackish. 
Marsh Reed. Phragmites. 
Great Reed. Debox. 

Grasses. 
Schcenus. S. effusus — fresh marsh. 
Rhynchospora. R. longirostris, do. 
Scirpus. S. simplex, do. 

S. palustris, do. 
Round-head. S. capitatus — salt marsh. 

S. mucronatus, do. 
Large Marsh. S. lacustris, do. 
Salt Rush. S. spadiceus, do. 

Downy Flower. S. ferrugineus, do. 
S. maratimus, do. 
Eriophorum. E. virginicum — fresh do. — in boggy clumps. 
White Rush. Spartina juncea — salt do. — forming also tufts. 

S. polystachya — brackish do. 
Salt Marsh Grass. S. glabra — salt marsh. 
Ceresia. C. fluitans — fresh do. 

Smooth Panicum. P. laevigatum — fresh do. 
Soft do. P. molle, do. 

Sea-shore do. P. virgatum, do. 

Johnny Bartram. Lycium carolinianum — salt do. 
Black Rush. Juncus acutus — brackish do. 

Arenaria. A. canadensis, do. 

Aster. A. flexuosus, do. 

A. subulatus, do. 

Zizanea. Z. aquatica. This is the most common grass at the mouths of 
rivers where the marsh is often overflowed ; grows six to ten feet high ; 
is eaten freely by cattle and horsos. Miliacea is not eaten by either. 
Z. fluitans. 
Z. miliacea. 
Sea Wrack. 
Sea Ware. 
Indian Grass. 
Dulce. 
Tangle. 

On approaching the 27th degree of N. latitude, the whole vegetation be- 
gins rapidly to change. Oaks and yellow pines become rare, and at length 

13 



98 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

disappear. The Hawey, Caccaloba and Gum Elemi. take their place on 
the sea-coast, and pitch pine takes the place of the yellow pine in the inte- 
rior. Among other timbers the following are found about the capes and 
keys. 

The White Mangrove grows to the size of a forest tree, one and a half 
feet in diameter, and often rises to the height of sixty feet, without a limb. 
It grows ill profound swamps, unmixed with any other timber. Trees are 
connected together by large hooplike roots, that rise high above the ground, 
that is covered by every tide. Nothing will grow beneath them except a 
sickly harsh-looking glasswort. This wood being impervious to the worms, 
s useful for boat timbers and for wharves, &c. 

The Black Mangrove covers most of the low islands and shores of the 
keys, as well as the southern shores of the peninsula. The seeds, which 
are abundant, shoot up through the saltmarsh in every direction. A por- 
tion of the limbs hang down in a straight perpendicular line, to the water. 
The end is directly covered with young oysters, which grow rapidly as the 
limb swings about ; at length they anchor it to the mud. It then throws 
out branches and becomes the body of the tree. Thus all the trees of an 
island appear to grow together. Sometimes the large body of a tree is 
mounted on a few slender roots, ten feet from the ground. 

Lignumvitae — guacum officinalis. This useful wood covers the higher 
points, of the interior keys. 

It grows to the size of a small apple tree, which it resembles in shape. 
Mahogany — Swetonia. This tree grows to a large size, straight and 
free from knots. The best are cut off from the keys. 

Maderia — S. Niger. This is a tree of the same species, but of a dark- 
er and closer grain. 

Logwood. — Haamatoxilon. The four last mentioned trees, are natives of 
the keys, but the best part of the timber has been cut off by the Bahama 
wreckers. 

Sea Grape. (Ovino.) Cacaalobe vivifera. — This beautiful tree resembles 
the Fig, in shape and size, its leaf is equally large, but oval ; the clus- 
ters of fruit are numerous, generally a foot long, and of the size of a 
musket ball. They taste much like a clingstone Peach. 
Wild Cinnamon. — Called by the inhabitants, Naked Wood. The bark is 
strongly aromatic, and flavored much like the Laurus cinnamon, but 
is more pungent. 
Gum Elemi. — Called by the inhabitants Gumbo-limbo, is a large spread- 
ing tree, with a smooth brown bark, which has the appearance of hav- 
ing been varnished. The juice, which is a white milk, is converted into 
bird-lime by boiling it to the consistence of a soft gum. This is the 
grandest tree of our southern latitudes. 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 99 

Sattin Wood. — It does not grow large, but makes beautiful furniture. 

Mastic. — This is very common. It bears a plum which is much esteemed 
when boiled. The timber is excellent for small vessels. 

White Mastic. — Is a softer wood. 

Black Wood. — White Wood. — Dog Wood. — Iron Wood. — These four 
kinds of wood are all exceedingly hard and heavy, and are altogether 
different from those trees, which bear the same names in our northern 
states. 

Water Willow. 

Sapadillo. 

Button Wood, or Bastard Lignumvitse. — The timber of this tree resembles 

the real lignumvitse, but is not as heavy. 

Howey. — This tree bears a multitude of little figs, not bigger than a grain 
of corn. They are of a dark brown colour when ripe. Information and 
taste, they are perfect figs. 

Papayer. — This tree bears large lobed leaves, like the Palma Christi ; 
which rise directly from the trunk, on long foot-stalks. The fruit is of 
various shapes, like the long or round garden squashes. These also 
spring directly from the stalk from under the head of leaves. 

Hickok, or Coco Plum. — The fruit of this tree, is of the size of a pullets 
egg. They are black, yellow and pale red. They are very abundant 
about the capes ; and extend as high as 27°. 

Pigeon Plum. 

Dow land Plum. 

Corker Plum. 

Huesco Plum. 

Horse Flesh. 

Custard Apple. 

Seven-years Apple. 

Manchineal, Hipomone. — Extremely poisonous. 

Hackberry. 

Red Bay. Laurus borbonia. — Much used for cabinet work. 

Nopal. Caetus Casti. — This is a tree whose body and limbs are articu- 
lated without leaves. Numerous small red flowers spring from the 
limbs, they nourish the cochineal insect. 

Bay Cedar. 

Prickly Ash. Different from the northern. 

White Stopper. 

Red Stopper. 

Cocoanut. — This is probably not a native, but is perfectly naturalized. 

Palm. 
The herbs and plants are not so numerous on the keys, as the trees are. 



100 VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 

the Magui or mexican alloe is abundant. It is a splendid flowering plant ; 
its fruit stalk rises to twenty feet high, and is surmounted with a multitude 
of splendid white flowers, on long pendulous foot-stalks. The fruit stalk 
when dry, is lighter than cork, and about as soft. The fibres of the leaves 
are worked into white cordage: 

There are two kinds of Yucca, and three kinds of Cactus, the palmated, 
the triangular, and the round or Napal. The cotton shrub is common, and 
usually grows about six feet high. The wild Thyme is one of the most 
conspicuous plants in the southern region. Of this is made the Tea Bin- 
cum, which immediately cures the Dangue. The bird pepper is the most 
common weed, about the keys ; wherever the woods are cleared from the 
land this capsicum immediately covers the ground. 
Sesbanea Coccina. — A beautiful scarlet bell shaped flower, very common 

on the keys. It has a strong woody stalk, ten feet high, the leaves 

laurel shaped, large and rough. 
Guilandina Dioica. Nicker-nut. — This is a thorny vine, has pods from 

four to five inches long which contains hard blue seeds, of the size and 

hardness of musket balls ; they resemble marbles. There are two other 

species of Guilandina, one is a beautiful tree with hirsute leaves ; they 

grow as high as the 27° of latitude. 

FISH. 

On this department of the natural history of Florida, we are very imper- 
fect. The subjects are numerous, but so many of them bear Spanish or 
Indian names, and vary, so materially from those found in the Northern 
States, that without authorities, which we connot here command, it is im- 
possible to class them. 

The Gulph Whale. This fish, very common on the western coast, is 
probably the Grampus orca. It is usually from twenty to twenty-five feet 
long and very broad and thick. There are many other fish of the Dolphin 
tribe, as the — 

Porpoise. Phocenae. These are very abundant on the coast and very 
large, often eight feet long. They sport in shoals and delight to play 
around a vessel sailing near the shore. In our bays and rivers they pass up 
the channels at day break, fishing for the sea bass, when their exertions are 
perfectly astonishing. They usually go in pairs and assist each other in 
detecting their flying prey. There is no doubt, that fisheries might be 
profitably established on the coast for them, as their oil is very valuable. 

Manatee. Beluga. This is a shy fish and is mostly confined to the 
grassy bays and particularly to the deep springs on the coast. They feed 
on grass and are considered excellent food. Their ribs are used for ivory. 
They are usually shot while feeding near the shore. 



FISH. 101 

Of the Cartilagenous tribe. The Shark, squalus — stands foremost. 
Of these there are several kinds. The white carepalus, is the largest and 
most formidable. They are sometines twenty-five feet long, and delight to 
sport in the surfs. They are often very dangerous, and have, in the Gulf of 
Mexico often been known to destroy persons ; yet at other times are perfectly 
inoffensive. I have seen a boat sunk, at the Pass L' Este, on the western 
coast, among numbers of the white sharks, as well as other kinds, and not 
the least attempt was made, by these sea monsters, to seize the men who 
were for a long time plunged in the breakers, before they could secure any 
thing to float on. 

Dogfish. Caracida. This is a large black fish extremely ferocious. 

The small Dogfish. Calutus — is from three to four feet long. Perfectly 
black, with a broad flat nose, perhaps the most voracious fish that swims. 

The Blue Shark. Glaucus — is common in the bay, as well as along 
the shores of the Gulf. He is from five to seven feet long. He sometimes 
ascends the rivers for mullet. 

The Sawfish. Priscae — is from five to fifteen feet long, and their saw 
is usually one third the length of their bodies. 

Angelfish. Squintina — is broad, with extensive fins and a brilliant silver 
colored skin. 

Catfish. Stettarus — is small in the sea, but in some of our deep rivers, 
grows to a great size. 

Eel, swordfish, conger eel, flounder, perch mackerel, lasher, minna, 
mullet, flying-fish, herring, cod, mud-fish, black-fish, white-fish, (trout silver, 
yellow and blue bream, in lakes and springs. Gar, gorupers, porgys, sheep- 
head, bass, grunts, yellow-tail, barracooter, permits, king-fish, jew-fish, 
stingray, whipray, moray, hog-fish, ponk-fish, hound-fish, pompano, mutton- 
fish, snapper, margate-fish, amber-fish, bill-fish, sturgeon, whiting, drum, 
skate and whip-jack. 

SHELL FISH. 

Of Multivalves, we have here two species of the chiton ; the C. spinosus 
and C. larvaeformis. The finest I found near Palm Sound, on the Gulf 
shore, and the latter on St. Rosa Island. 

Of the Acorn Shell, or Lepas, there are several kinds ; some of them ex- 
tremely mischievous, destroying in a short time, not only the bottoms of 
vessels, but wharves, piles, and every kind of wood that is exposed to the 
sea. Tar, sulphur, and paint, give way to them in a few days, and no- 
thing but copper can check their devastations. It is said that they will 
not meddle with the timber of the mangrove ; it is held in high estimation 
on that account. The tough fibres of the cabbage palm also resist these 



102 FISH. 

insects, and for piles it answers a good purpose. The tintinabula and the 
antiferaare the worst of these insects. 

Of Bivalves, the mya or gaper holds a conspicuous station. The fresh 
water, pearl muscle is said to abound in our great inland lakes. When 
Ferdinand De Soto invaded Florida, the natives possessed great numbers of 
pearls ; and the Spanish writers state that they were found in Lake Myaco, 
as well as in the Appalache Bay. The latter must have been the mya 
margaratiferoe, which shell is still found there. The trincata, or thick shell- 
ed clam, is found in the sand of all the bays and lagoons. 
Razor Shell. Saler. 
The Scimetar. S. ensis. Is common. 

Violet Radiated is found about Cape Sable, and is much used in ornament- 
al shell work. 

Of Telinas there are several species. 
Cockles. Cardium. An abundance of different species on every part of the 

coast. The Common. E. edule. Grow very large on the grassy 

shores of the Gulf of Mexico. During storms they are often driven on 

shore. 

The Fluted Heart. C. castatum. 

Venus Heart. C. cardbsa. 

Yellow Ribbed. C. magnum. Are very common. 
The Bear's Paw. C. Rusticum. Only about the Camachee Fields on the 

S. W. coast. 
Mactra. M. stuttonim. I have in several places on the Gulf discovered 

these among old heaps of shells, but have not discovered them on the 

shore. 
The Wedge Shells. Dorax. Are very common on the Atlantic coast. 

They are small white shells, with purple rays. Some are white, with 

the inner side purple. 
The Venus abounds on every part of our coast. The ridges go round the 

shell, instead of across, as in most shells. The V. edentula is, perhaps, 

as beautiful as any of the species. It is diaphanous, tinged with red, the 

inside of a gold color. 
The Spandylous I found most numerous about the Hillsborough Inlet. 

It is eared and spiny. 
Area. Of this class, the tortuosa is the finest species that inhabits our 

coast. They are thin, but peculiarly delicate. The mouth of Appa- 

lachicola Bay affords the finest specimens. The noae is common. 
No part of America can boast finer oysters than St. Andrews Bay. I 
have seen them 12 inches long, and very fat. 

Besides the edules, or common oyster, there are the marima, or scallop, 



SHELLS. 103 

the radula, varia and fasicula, besides one or two kinds of sole. The leaf, 
folium, is rare. A long kind, called racoon, are extremely abundant about 
the Florida Keys. It is this kind that grow so abundantly on the man- 
grove bushes. 

Anomias. Of these there are green, black, and yellow, on every part 
of our coast. The white and yellow are translucent. 

Mytillus. Sea Muscle. There are several beautiful species on various 
parts of our coast. Groups of the edulis are found in the baj^s of the Gulf, 
attached to the ostrea and especially to the old shells ; they also adhere to 
various other substances. Some beautiful species are attached to the coral- 
ines. The shells of these are variegated with very beautiful colors. I have 
seen the shell of the margaratiferous both in the Appalache Bay and at 
Hillsborough Inlet, on the Atlantic coast : and there can be no doubt that 
the pearls might be found there, if we had persons that understood fishing 
for them. 

Pinna. We have but the pictinata, at least, I have observed no other. 
They are small and rare on the Atlantic side of Florida. The sea is there 
too rough ; the pinna delights in calm bays, where it can wave about in 
security. In the Bay of St. Joseph's ihey grow to the size of twelve or 
thirteen inches in length, and have been known to weigh five pounds. 
Their bysus, or silky cordage, is of a reddish cast. 

Argonauta. Paper Sailor. This beautiful little adventurer is frequent- 
ly driven on shore, about the Inlet of St. Augustine. The coast below 
Indian River is often covered with them in the winter season. 

Nautilus. The spinula is found in various parts, but I have not discover- 
ed the pompilius. 

Conus. The cone shells are scarce on our coast. The virgo is occas- 
ionally found ; and a larger species, crowned with a black epidermis, with 
a beautiful pearly substratum, is sometimes found near the capes of 
Florida. 

Cypree. The finest specimens of these shells are found on the Bahama 
Islands. The finest species of C. arabica, called mikrimak, is found about 
the roots of the mangroves, on the Florida keys. The limax crawls out 
of his shell and basks in the sun ; as he covers the shell with his body, no 
person unacquainted with it, would suspect the shell to exist. On being 
disturbed he slowly withdraws himself again into his fortress. The shells 
are usually boiled to extricate the animal. Fine mikrimaks, at Key West, 
sell from three to six dollars per dozen. The lurida and some other kinds, 
are rarely found about the keys. 

Bulla, or Bubble. Of these, the ficus or fig are abundant, on the St. 
George Island. The ampulla or pewit's eggs are found about the north 



104 SHELLS. 

entrance of the Caximba. The terebellum or augur are seen occasionally 
in various places, and the unseemly slug, B. aparta is often seen along 
the shores of the Gulf. 

Voluta. The 01ivia : usually called Paramars, are found on every part 
of our coast, but the finest are about the islands in front of St. Andrew's 
Sound. The peninsula mistica and glans, are occasionally seen on both 
coasts. 

Bucciniurn. The Ariola, or dice shell, is found on St. Rose Island, 
some of a pure white, andoth ers finely checqued. The dalium strigilatum 
palulum and reticulatum are. rare. 

Strombus. The Fucus and palustris are common. 

The Pes Pelicani are found abundantly in old heaps about the sea, but 
recent shells of this species are rare. The urcius and geblerulus are found 
about the capes. 

Murex. Several of the kinds are scattered over our coasts. The tribu- 
lus, ramosus rana and moncinella are rare. The celebrated Tyrian dye, 
was contained in one of these species. 

Trochus. The dolibratus is the most common of the species ; the per- 
spective and zyziphorus and several others are occasionally seen. 

Turbo, mericatus anguis and tenebra, are common. The chrysostomus 
rare. The mericatus and littoris, perewinkle, of every color, and variety, 
are found on the mangroves, about the keys, in great numbers. 

Helix. This class is extremely diffuse, inhabiting the ocean, the rivers, 
and the land. We find on the Atlantic, a large snail, of light brown color, 
and a small one, of a rich purple. The columna is found in our hammocks, 
three inches long, of a rich brown color. The nemoralis is common. Our 
savannas afford a great variety of beautiful small correas. Every different 
quality of land affords a different kind of Helix. 

Nerita. Common in many parts of the coast. The litoralis live upon 
the bullrush. 

Haliatis. This class is rare on our coast. The impertura is most fre- 
quent, and is a beautiful little shell. 

Patella, Dishes. Called in England, Limpet. This is a very numerous 
class of shells. The animal is fixed to the rocks, at the bottom of the sea, 
and the shell covers him like a dish. The granatira would scarcely be 
supposed to contain any living creature ; it is a mere mass of shell. The 
gracea and sanguinelenta, are very common on the southern coast. 

The serpulae lumbrecalis, is common on the western coast, from Sarrazota 
Bay to Cape Sable. And there are also many other species of serpula 
wholly new to me. 

The Teredro navalis, the destroyer of our vessels, are infinitely numerous, 
as they are in most tropical regions. 



AGRICULTURE. 105 

CRUSTACjK. 

The large Cray-fish of the Florida keys have been seen only one or two 
hundred miles north of the capes. The coral reefs are their appropriate 
region. Their flavor is equal to that of the lobster, and they are equally 
large. 

The Rock Crab is common on the Atlantic coast. The meat is stronger 
and less delicate than the Black Crab. 

The Black Crabs are abundant in our salt lagoons. Their flesh is very 
white, and delicate eating. 

The white Sand Crab is confined to the sandy shores of the Gulf of 
Mexico. They are good for nothing but to bait the red bass. They bur- 
row in the dry sandy shore. 

The Shrimps are numerous in autumn, and are finely flavored. 

Fiddlers and black Water Spiders are infinitely numerous. They afford 
excellent food for hogs. 

The Moluscas on our coast are extremely numerous, comprehending 
nearly all the known varieties. 

AGRICULTURE. 

The course commenced in Florida is the same that has generally 
been pursued, in all the slave holding states, north of us. A course 
which has destroyed the native fertility of the soil, from the Chesapeake 
Bay to the St. Mary's River, with few exceptions. The object has been 
to cultivate as much land and with as few hands as possible. To exhaust 
the soil and turn it common, and then to remove and pursue the same course 
again, upon new land. It is greatly to be hoped, that in future, some 
system may be adopted, which may tend not only to preserve, but to im- 
prove the soil we cultivate. Near the sea coast we have boundless means 
in the sea weed and marsh mud, to improve our lands ; and facts abun- 
dantly demonstrate, that it is much less expensive to preserve the fer- 
tility of a good soil, by manuring it, than to clear up new and heavy tim- 
bered lands. Besides, it is something, to preserve the fruits that we have 
planted, and the improvements we have made in early life, or those which we 
have received from our ancestors. Besides, we are approaching the limits of 
our peregrinations, unless we fly off in a western tangent ; and it will be a 
long journey ,m that direction, which will bring us to good uncultivated lands. 

The Sea-Island Cotton has hitherto been our principal crop, near the sea 
coast, and the Green Seed Cotton in the country. But at present the sugar 
cultivation is taking the lead in the Middle and Eastern Districts. This 
ought to be the staple of the country. Experiments in every part of the 

14 



106 AGRICULTURE. 

Territory prove, that all our good lands will produce sugar cane as well as 
any other crop, and that it is more ceitain and more valuable, in most places. 
Besides, there can be no danger of glutting the market with sugar. Three 
kinds of cane are planted in the Territory, the Creole, otaheita, and ribon. 
The creole cane is said to produce the most sugar, when perfectly ripened, 
but it requires a longer season than either of the other kinds. The ribon 
cane comes to maturity quicker than either of the other kinds, and of course 
may be cultivated farther north, but the albumen of the stalk is much harder 
and requires a stronger power to grind it. When cut, it does not ferment 
so soon as the creole cane. South of 30 degrees of latitude the yellow 
kinds are preferred. At the time the cane is fully ripe, it is the best time to 
plant it, for a future crop. One of our principal planters has raised cane 
six years from the same roots, without replanting, and there are yet, no 
signs of depreciation : how long they will continue to yield good crops is un- 
known. It is a very great saving of labor. But this rat toning cannot be 
practised in climates where the frost is sufficiently severe to kill the roots. 
The top of the stalk makes excellent fodder, for cattle and horses. In 
spring the cane should be headed two or three times. It then covers the 
ground sufficiently to smother and kill out the weeds, A general opinion 
has prevailed that sugar could not be made to advantage, unless a great 
capital is invested; but experience abundantly proves, that a small capital may 
be as profitably employed in the culture of cane, as any other product. 
The cane produced on less than ten acres of ground is usually ground in a 
wooden mill, which floes not cost one hundred dollars, the work of the far- 
mer himself, while the juice is boiled in the common utensils of his kitch- 
en, and the produce is usually greater in proportion to the stock worked, 
than where the machinery has cost ten thousand dollars. 

Cane is cultivated with more ease than corn, because it does not require 
so much hoeing. From midsummer to the time of harvesting, the hands 
may be employed in other business, but at the time of manufacturing, a 
greater number of hands will be required. 

One hand may tend five acres of cane, with the hoe, or eight acres, with 
the assistance of a horse and plough. At the same time he may raise his 
provisions ; 1200 pounds to the acre, is about a common yield. This at 7 
dollars per hundred, amounts to 420 dollars for five acres. The molasses 
is always expected to pay the expense of manufacturing. Fifty acres of cane 
well managed will produce 4200 dollars ; certainly the most profitable 
crop, that can be raised in any part of the United States. 

The Cuba Tobacco stands next to sugar, in the estimation of our small 
farmers. It is not a crop fit for a large plantation. It has the finest flavor 
when grown on old lands that are well manured. Our sandy soil near the 



AGRICULTURE. 107 

sea coast, is well adapted for this production ; and a usual season will pro- 
duce three good cuttings from the same stalks. The seed should be sown 
in December, on rich beds finely pulverized, and kept constantly damp. 
When the plant first springs from the ground, it is very fine and should be 
watered by a pot, pierced with very small holes. From February to March, 
the plants will be fit to transplant into the field, which ought to be well 
ploughed and manured. The plants may be set five feet apart, or six if the 
soil be not strong. From this period they must be tended with the hoe, care- 
fully observed from day to day. The grub will cut down some every night, 
which must be replaced. If watered with strong soap suds, the grub will 
leave them. The ants will then pierce the hill so full of holes that the rays of 
the sun will kill the stalk, or they will cover it up with sand. The hoe alone 
can cure this evil. A large green catterpillar, next attacks the leaf ; these 
must be daily picked off and destroyed, or they will leave the stalk bare. 
A small striped catterpillar next attacks the buds and the flower, and lastly 
the large striped tobacco worm, feeds on the large leaves, and cuts them 
full of holes. There is no crop that requires such constant attention as 
tobacco. And it is remarkable that so noisome a plant, should harbor such 
a variety of insects. When it is properly cultivated, suckered and topped, 
and the leaves carefully gathered and cured, 700 lbs. is an average crop, to 
the acre, which will make 100 boxes of cigars, worth from 10 to 14 dol- 
lars per box. Deduct for rent three dollars, one hand six months, 60 dollars, 
and making the Cigars 250=313, and 687 dollars will remain for the nett 
proceeds of one acre of ground. The objections to this crop, are, the con- 
stant attention required, not only in the cultivation, but also in curing the 
tobacco ; the risk of damage by storms, which in some seasons, blow 
the leaves in pieces, and third that the market is easihy glutted with cigars. 

Sea Island Cotton is peculiarly adapted to our sea coast and islands, 
and although good crops may sometimes be made at some distance in the 
country, yet they are uncertain, and always degenerate in proportion to 
their distance from the sea. Our islands and coast are made up of the de- 
bris of sea shells, a small portion of clay, and vegetable matter, with a 
large portion of silicious sand. The larger the proportion of vegetable mat- 
ter and clay, the larger is usually the crop of cotton, but the less of these 
matters contained in the soil, the finer and more glossy will be the staple of 
the cotton, and no kind of manure has been found that will increase the 
quantity, without at the same time injuring the quality of the cotton, except 
it be sea-weeds, or marsh mud. These do increase the quantity, without 
materially injuring the staple. By means of these exhaustless manures, 
our poorest pine barrens may be rendered fertile, and thus all our lands 
Bear to navigable waters may be improved to advantage. In order to cul- 



108 AGRICULTURE, 

tivate a good crop of colton, the land should be well ploughed; the seed 
should be chosen with great care ; that which contains a small bunch of 
hairs on the end is said to be the best. The distance of the drills should be 
determined by the quality of the soil, say six or seven feet. The plough 
may be used to great advantage in clearing out the weeds. After the first 
hoeing, the soil ought not to be drawn up to the stalks. The pods sometimes 
begin to open in August, but generally in September. The cotton ought 
to be picked soon alter the capsules open, as the fine gloss of the herl is in- 
jured by exposure to the weather, and particularly by rains ; the wind al- 
so dislodges it from the pod. It is usually exposed to the sun on scaffolds 
a short time before ginning. The smooth roller gin is the only machine 
that has been discovered to extricate the seed without injuring the herl. In 
ginning, the cotton should be equally distributed upon the rollers, for a hard 
pressure destroys the elasticity of the cotton. The best planters do not 
average more than three acres of cotton to the hand. The best land will 
produce in good seasons one bale to the hand, but in general half that quan- 
tity can be depended on. The value of this crop depends, more than any 
other, on the manner in which it is handled and put up for market. Some 
of the crops raised on the islands of South Carolina bring 1 dollar per lb., 
but here it usually sells from 20 to 50 cents. The crop is liable to many 
accidents. The caterpillar sometimes destroys whole fields in one night. 
The red bug pierces the pod and discolors the cotton, and heavy winds 
destroy the pods ; besides, it is a tedious crop to clear and prepare for mar- 
ket. It ought never to be cultivated on lands that will produce either sugar 
or tobacco, but to be confined to light hammock lands, within the range of 
the sea-breezes. 

The Mexican and Green Seed Cotton is still cultivated hrthe country. 
High oak land is the only kind which produces this crop to advantage, and 
at the price now given, it does not, in Florida, pay the expense of cultiva- 
tion. 

Rice is a valuable crop, where fresh water can be had to flow the ground 
during the dry season. Thebordersof St. Mary's River afford the finest lands 
for this crop of any in the Territory. There are some excellent lands for this 
culture on the Appalachicola River. There is not tide enough in the St. 
John's, above the salt water line, to render rice planting profitable. The 
upland rice however, may be cultivated without water. Our pine lands, 
when trod by cattle, has often produced sixty bushels of rough rice to an 
acre. This is a profitable crop. With one months' labor, one hand with a ' 
horse and plough, can raise ten acres of rice, which is worth $450. The 
rice sells at seventy-five cents per bushel, besides, the straw makes excellent 
fodder for cattle. Deducting ten dollars for the hand, the same for the 



AGRICULTURE. 109 

horse and plough, and three dollars for the rent of the land, and we have 
$100 left, beside the straw. On marsh land where water may be comman- 
ded, three barrels of six hundred pounds each, are raised on the acre ; and 
one hand will cultivate three acres with the hoe. The value of each 
hand at this culture, is estimated at one hundred and fifty dollars per an- 
num. Nett profit, one hundred and twenty dollars. 

Indigo was the principal staple of the Florida planters, while the British 
possessed the country. It brought the highest price of any brought into 
the London market, with the exception of that from Caraccas, which was 
said to have been manufactured in a better manner. Except cane, this is 
the most certain crop raised in Florida. It is a native of the country, our 
pine barrens are covered with it. The old fields cultivated by the English, 
sixty years ago, are still covered with it, in spite of time and cultivation. It 
is subject to no risk, the only objection to its culture arises from the un- 
healthiness of its manufacture. This may now be avoided by curing 
the leaves and sending them in bales to market. The highest price is offer- 
ed in New-York, for the article prepared in this way. While it was raised 
and manufactured on the same plantation, the usual product to each hand 
was one hundred and seventy-five pounds, and it sold at one dollar per 
pound. 

Silk. As our climate is the best in the world for the production of this 
article, and as we have considerable districts of country, that will produce no 
crop, so well as the mulberry tree, the culture of silk ought certainly to be 
encouraged. Every species of mulberry will grow as far south as the 27th 
degree of latitude. South of that they are smaller till you reach the 
capes, where the tree is rarely seen. Cocoons of the silk worm are often 
found on these, as well as on other trees in a wild state. Our native red 
and black mulberry are said to produce silk equally as good as the white. 
The rough pubescent leaved mulberry, is said to produce a larger quantity, 
but of a coarser staple than either. The best way to obtain a grove of 
mulberry trees, is to take cuttings from old trees, just as the bud begins to 
push out. These should be planted in beds made rich and mellow. The 
butt of the stalk should be inclined say twenty degrees, with a bud just 
at the surface of the ground. Twenty feet is a proper distance apart. In 
four or five years you may begin to feed from them.* But the leaves 

*Since writing the above, the Multicaulis has been introduced into the United States, 
and bids fair to supercede all other kinds of mulberry. They are more easily raised, their 
foliage is more abundant, and it is much easier to gather the leaves from this shrub, than 
from trees ; we are also assured that the silk is at least equal to that made from any other 
species of plants. After having planted at Bayard, twenty-five cuttings of the Multicaulis, 
at the expense of half as many dollars, they were all eat down by the mules of a company 



110 AGRICULTURE. 

ought never wholly to be stripped off. It would be better to leave one-half 
at least, for several years. 

The worms should be kept in a light, airy room, on shelves of thin 
boards, planed, and bored full of holes ; while another should be placed 
underneath, to catch the dirt that falls through. It is very important that 
their dwelling should be kept sweet and clean. They eat sparingly in the 
first stages of their existence, but grow extremely voracious as they in- 
crease in size, and they must then be well supplied with fresh leaves, as 
often as they are required. The under shelves ought to be frequently 
washed in lime water, and particular care should be taken that the ants do 
not approach them ; they are so numerous in this climate, that they would 
very soon destroy all the worms. From the time that the mulberry puts 
forth its leaves, until the insect accomplishes its whcle work is about forty 
days. At this period the cocoons should be laid up in a cool place until 
the next season, unless a second crop should be required. For this, there 
is plenty of time in this climate, nor do I know any good reason why it 
should not be improved. The manner of reeling the cocoons is a matter 
to be learned by experience, and a detail here would be useless. We have 
not had in Florida, a sufficient number of experiments to ascertain the ex- 
pense, or the value of this pursuit, in comparison with other crops. "We 
can only say that the culture is appropriate, and easily carried into effect. 

The Cochineal insect is a native of Florida, and as the male nopal is 
also a native plant, found about the Florida Keys, it is confidently believed 
that it might be cultivated to a certain extent. The insect is seen hovering 
about the leaf of the prickly pear, quite in the northern parts of the Ter- 
ritory. The female nopal is cultivated in Guatemala to support the insect. 
It is planted in rows on rich land well prepared, and must be kept perfectly 
loose and clear of weeds. When twenty months old they are fit to inocu- 
late which is the placing of the insect on the plant. The seed insect is 
ver\" minute ; it is preserved in boxes and sold by the pound. Twenty-five 
pounds will inoculate one thousand plants. About a tea spoonful is put in 
a small piece of gauze, and attached to the plant with a thorn, from this 
they crawl over the plant, and in about two months come to maturity. It 

of volunteers, in the winter of 1836. Three sprouts only were found rising- from roots left 
in the ground. These were taken up, and planted at Picolata in December. Much care 
was taken to lay down the stoles, when about three feet high, and in May, 1837, we success- 
fully transplanted from these three stocks, four hundred and twelve plants. 

During the last year, a gentleman from the city of New-York, planted four hundred 
stalks of the Multicaulis, on a poor lot of ground in St. Augustine, that cost him, with the 
buildings, about eight hundred dollars. His crop of Multicaulis was carefully cultivated, 
and in one year he sold the lot for sixteen hundred dollars, besides having sold enough of 
the plants to pay the original cost of the lot. 



AGRICULTURE. Ill 

is then scraped off the nopal with a feather, and exposed to a hot sun for 
twenty successive days, on a piece of polished tin or other metal. It then 
assumes a silvery grey color, and is called grana. The granilla and cas- 
carilla are inferior qualities procured by scalding. Great care is taken to 
pack it in several mats to preserve it from the least moisture, which would 
spoil it. 

Corn is the most important article of food in a southern climate ; to the 
negro it is indispensable, and many of the white inhabitants prefer corn 
bread to wheat. Although Florida is south of the best corn climate, still 
very good crops are raised in many parts of the Territory, and every 
planter ought to raise enough for the consumption of his family. This 
crop is cultivated most successfully in the Middle District, and on the 
Chattahooche River. Forty bushels are often produced to the acre on the 
best land, while in the Eastern District from twelve to fifteen bushels to 
the acre, is an average crop on good land. In the Middle District it is 
usually worth more than thirty-seven and a half cents per bushel, while at 
St. Augustine and Pensacola, it is more frequently worth one dollar per 
bushel. Tt is therefore worth cultivating for use, but not as an article of 
commerce. The weavil destroys corn very soon after it is harvested. 
When stored away in the husk, it resists these insects for a longer period. 
Our seasons are long enough to produce two crops, but the late crop is 
usually much injured by the corn worm, which is the same that preys on 
the cabbage. — Phaleena oleracea. 

The Guinea corn, Otaheite corn, and Millet, succeed very well. The 
latter in particular, is a useful and safe crop. 

The Sweet Potato is next to corn, in the estimation of the Florida planter. 
The pine land furnishes its natural soil. This root is agreeable to almost 
every taste, is very healthy, contains much nutriment, and will often pro- 
duce 400 bushels to the acre. The potato is planted in seed beds, and 
when the vines have grown three or four feet long, they are cut and trans- 
planted into ridges, thrown up lightly for that purpose. The top of the 
ridge is opened with the hoe, and from four to six vines laid side by side, in 
a row extending the length of the ridge ; the earth is then hauled over 
them in spots one foot apart, the intermediate space left uncovered ; from 
thence the vegetation spreads above ground, while the covered spaces throw 
off roots, to furnish the tubers. This is altogether a laborious cultivation. 
One hand can scarcely attend more than five acres, for weeds must not be 
suffered to grow among the vines. But supposing them to produce only 
one thousand bushels of potatoes, it is a valuable crop. At Pensacola, and 
St. Augustine, 75 cents per bushel is a common price, and they are worth 
fifty cents, for the purpose of feeding to cattle and hogs. 



112 AGRICULTURE. 

The Irish Potato produces a good crop, if planted in the winter. They 
ought always to be covered with seaweed, or coarse compost, to shield the 
roots from the heat of the sun, which is powerful in the spring. The clayey 
soil of the middle district suits this crop, better than the sandy soil of the sea- 
coast. The potato raised here will not keep, as m.> t' 1 as those brought from 
the north, nor will they answer to plant again, '-.paey run to vines, with- 
out producing any tubers. 

Pumpkins, squashes, water mellons, and musk mellons are produced 
with great ease, and are equal in flavor to any in the world. Cucumbers, 
gherkins, &c, succeed well in wet seasons. Turnips are a valuable win- 
ter crop ; beets, carrots, onions and radishes, as well as most other garden 
roots, succeed well in quantity and quality. 

The English pea succeeds only in the winter. The cow pea, lady pea, 
and chickasaw pea, produce excellent crops during the heat of summer. 
They also ameliorate the soil and prevent extreme evaporation. Cabbages 
succeed best in winter, but Tomatoes and Egg plants as well as acras re- 
quire a warm sun. The pea nut produces a large crop, with little care, 
and is a useful article in the desert. 

Of fruits the orange stands preeminent in the eastern section of the Terri- 
tory. Groves have, for many years, been increasing in the neighborhood 
of St. Augustine, and St. John's River. They are now extending to every 
part of the eastern coast, 2,000,000 are annually shipped from St. Augus- 
tine, and forms the staple commodity of the country. The western and 
middle parts of the Territory are too cold for the successful production of 
this fruit. The china orang-e tree requires a rich sandy soil. It produces 
fruit in about seven years from the seed. By engrafting, this period may ■ 
be shortened two or three years. The tree grows larger here, than in the 
West Indies. One hundred is as many as can grow profitably, on an acre. 
When full grown they will usually average 500 to the tree, each year, and 
they are worth 7,50 per thousand, which would amount to 375 dollars per 
acre. Some groves produce much more than that. One tree in Mr. 
Alvarez' grove has produced more than 6000 in one year. A grove is, on 
the whole, a valuable property. The care and attention necessary in prun- 
ing and manuring, bears a small proportion, to the labor necessary in 
raising other crops. It is necessary to keep the head of the tree pruned 
often, so as to throw the weight of vegetation to the extremity of the limbs. 
No moss ought to be suffered to grow on the bark. The ground about 
them should be kept clear of weeds and grass, and the roots ought to be 
annually manured. The frosts of the winter 1835, destroyed all the china 
orange trees, and most other fruit trees in Florida, as far south as the 28th 
degree of latitude. South of that, the wild orange and lime groves were 
injured, but not destroyed. See page 20. 



AGRICULTURE. 113 

The Seville, or Bitter Sweets, are common forest trees, indiginous to 
the eastern and southern districts. The pulp of the fruit is equally pleasant 
as that of the China orange ; but the pellicle, which separates the pulp in- 
to lobes, is bitter. To a stranger, this is usually very unpleasant, but cus- 
tom soon reconciles . ^ taste to it. It is thought to be very healthy. 
The sour orange is a!, j abundant in the hammock lands, but is used only 
for its acid juice, which is often converted into shrub. 

Very few of the shaddocks are cultivated in Florida. Forbidden fruit, ci- 
trons, lemons and limes are rapidly increasing. 

The Pomegranate is a useful as well as an ornamental shrub. The fruit 
is used as a healthy and cooling desert. The blossom is among the most 
beautiful of our native flowers. It arrives to perfection in almost every 
part of our territory. Most of our gardens are enriched with its blossoms 
and fruit. Mr. Darby recommends it for hedges. If intermixed with our 
poppinac, (mimosa eburnum,) it would doubtless form a hedge equally 
splendid and formidable. 

The Apple and Quince both succeed very well in the north and western 
parts of Florida, but neither of them will bear fruit near the sea coast. 

Figs are abundant and richly flavored. They are raised with great ease. 
A limb cut from a bearing tree will produce figs the second year after 
planting. No attempts have been made to preserve them, bu: there is 
little doubt that it may be done successfully. 

Peaches and nectarines succeed perfectly. Large orchards of them are 
cultivated in the middle and western districts. They do not succeed so 
well near the sea coast. 

The Persimmon of Florida exceeds that of the Middle States. The 
fruit is larger and more soft and juicy. It is ripe about August. It is sold 
in our markets as a delicate article of the desert. The former natives 
pressed the pulp into cakes, which were dried and eaten as bread during 
the year. 

The Hawey is a fig in miniature ; it grows upon a large and beautiful 
spreading tree, in the southern district. The fruit is the size of a hazlenut 
and springs from the limb of the tree, without any apparent flower. It is 
of a dark brown color, is soft and in taste resembles the black fig. 

The Cocoanut is a native tree, or at least naturalized, south of the 27th 
degree of latitude. It rises above all the trees of the forest. This fruit 
ought to be extensively cultivated. It is about fifteen years coming to per- 
fection, but then it bears abundant crops, without any farther attention, for a 
long period of years. Many of these trees planted in 1824, are now in full 
bearing at Key West. 

- The sugar apple and custard apple grows perfectly well, about the capes, 

15 



114 MANUFACTURES. 

and keys of the southern district. The few planted at St. Augustine 
flourish and bear fruit. 

The Caccalobe or sea grape ornaments all our southern coast with its 
abundant clusters. The tree is about the size of our fig tree, its leaves 
large and woolley and the clusters usually a foot long. The grape tastes 
much like a cling-stone peach. 

Of Plumbs, we have the chickasaw, the hickok, corker, dowland, 
huesco, mastic and pigeon ; all these are natives. The plumbs of the north- 
ern states succeed better in the middle and western districts, than at the east 
and south. 

Of Cherries we have only the black wild cherry. The fruit of this is indif- 
ferent, but the timber is far superior, to that of the Northern States. 

The plantain and bananna succeed to perfection in the southern district. 
At St. Augustine and Tallahasse, the bananna has been cultivated with 
success. The Papayer is a native on the waters of Musquito and thence 
south. The Guava usually produces abundantly, but it is occasionally cut 
down by the frost. The Tamarind and the Olive are growing in many 
places and will doubtless become productive. 

We have native blackberries, dewberries, billberries, whortleberries and 
strawberries, in abundance. 

MANUFACTURES. 

Except domestic clothing made in the families of the planters, for their own 
use, little can be expected for many years. The staple articles of com- 
merce, sugar, cotton and rice, will for many seasons, employ the inhabitants 
of the Territory, more profitably than manufactures. Some of the most 
important productions of the country indeed, require to be manufactured on 
the spot ; such are, sugar, indigo, myrtle wax, quercitron, sumach, sessamy 
and palmachrystie. Bricks are sent in considerable large quantities, from 
Pensacola to New Orleans. Fire bricks, in particular, are in high demand. 
Some lime, has also been mn.de, for exportation. Rum and peach brandy 
will presently make considerable items in our list of manufactures. Cigars 
have already been made for exportation in considerable quantities. They 
are considered, in no respect, inferior to those made in Cuba. The cultiva- 
tion of this article ought to be extended. 

Our shores are peculiarly well calculated to produce salt in large quan- 
tities. Many of the southern keys are covered with salt ponds, which 
with little preparation would produce sufficient for the consumption of the 
southern States. At Key West several hundred bushels are annually 
collected from the natural salt ponds. Extensive works have been for 



COMMERCE, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 115 

some time preparing at Duck Key for evaporating the sea water, as well 
as at Key West. 

COMMERCE. 

Our commerce, like our manufactures, is in its infancy. A moderate 
coasting trade is all that Florida yet can boast. Dry goods are brought 
from New York, and provisions from New Orleans and Charleston. Our 
exports consist of live oak and cedar timber, cotton, bricks, pine lumber, 
staves, hides, horns, tallow, bees-wax, peltries and oranges. At St. Joseph's 
a line of packets has lately been established to run to Liverpool. 

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 

These are various, as the different originals which make up the popula- 
tion of the country. This having, at different periods, been conquered by 
the French, Spaniards and English, the inhabitants of these various 
countries were, much intermixed when Turnbull intioduced into East Flo- 
rida a colony composed of Minorcans, Greeks and Italians. The Greeks 
for the most part perished, but the Minorcans, even now, form one of the 
strongest portions of the eastern population. The Creoles had, before the 
transfer of Florida to the United States, assumed something of a national 
character. But between Pensacola and St. Augustine there was very lit- 
tle communication, and considerable difference of habits and manners exist- 
ed between them. They were both military posts. The inhabitants were al- 
most entirely confined to these fortifications. A few cow-pens in the coun- 
try formed the only exceptions. Most of the respectable inhabitants held 
commissions in the army, or in some of the departments of the government ; 
they lived on their salaries, paid no taxes, and were rarely called to a 
strict account for their actions. The balance of the people, the military ex- 
cepted, kept little shops, cultivated small groves or gardens, and followed 
fishing and hunting. They were a temperate, quiet, and rather an indo- 
lent people ; affectionate and friendly to each other, and kind to the few 
slaves they held. The even tenor of their way was not often interrupted. 
Dances, card parties and patgoes were the diversions of the west, and po- 
sey balls and masquerades of the eastern portions of Florida. Sherivarees 
were common to both. 

The exertion am] bustle, of a mixed American population, for a time 
threw the old inhabitants into the back ground ; but the new corners met 
with little success, in the first attempts at speculation, and at present they 
seem disposed, rather to settle down to the easy habits of their neighbors, 
than to pursue a course of active industry themselves. To this, however, 
there is some honorable exceptions. Tt was a misfortune, that most of the 
American emigrants to Florida brought with them the expectations of ac- 



116 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 

cumulating rapid fortunes ; being disappointed in their hopes, many left the 
country in disgust, and most relaxed in their exertions. The few who settled 
down to a course of patient industry, are realizing a decent independence. 
Nothing is now wanting, but for the old and new inhabitants of the Ter- 
ritory, to unite in establishing a common system of education. That once 
performed, all distinctions will soon be lost, and Florida will enjoy a most 
happy population. 

Balls are the most common amusements of the Floridians. The Patgoe 
of West Florida is rather the introduction to a dance. . A wooden bird is 
fixed on a pole and carried through the city, by some slave ; on presenting 
it to the ladies, they make an offering of a piece of ribon, of any length or 
color that happens to suit their fancy or convenience. This is fixed to the 
bird, which soon becomes decked in a gaudy and abundant plumage. A 
time and place is then set apart for the fair patrons of the Patgo to assem- 
ble, who are usually gallantly attended by their beaux, with rifles or fowl- 
ing pieces. The Patgo is set up at a proper distance, and shot at, the for- 
tunate marksman who first succeeds in striking it, is proclaimed king of the 
entertainment. The Patgo becomes his property, by right of conquest, and 
is, by him, presented to the fair lady of his choice, who by accepting the 
present, becomes queen of the festivities ; his majesty then becomes entitled 
to the enviable privilege of paying the expense of the entertainment, over 
which he with his royal consort presides 

The Posey Dance, of St. Augustine is introduced in a different manner, 
but results in the same amusement. The females of a family, no matter 
what their rank or station in life may be, erect in a room of their house, a 
neat little altar, lit up with candles, and dressed with pots and festoons of 
flowers. This is understood by the gentlemen as a polite invitation to call 
and admire the taste of the fair architects. It is continued for several suc- 
cessive evenings ; in the mean time the lady selects from her visitors, some 
happy beau, whom she delights to honor, and presents him with aboquet of 
choice flowers. His gallantry is then put to the test : should he choose to de- 
cline the proffered honor, he has only to pay the expense of lighting up the 
altar. But if he accepts the full dignity offered him, he is king of the ball, 
which shortly after succeeds, and the posey lass becomes queen, as a mat- 
ter of course. The posey ball is a mixed assembly. People of all ranks 
meet here on a level, jet so far as we have been acquainted with them, they 
have been conducted with the nicest decorum, and even with politeness 
and grace. 

Sherivarees are parties of idle people, who dress themselves in grotesque 
masquerade, whenever a widow or widower are married. They often pa- 
rade about the streets, and play buffoon tricks for two or three days ; haunt- 
ing the residence of the new married pair, and disturbing the whole city 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, TOWNS. 117 

with noise and riot, until they can be bought off with money or whiskey. 
This foolish custom is common to West Florida. It has become a disgust- 
ing bore to the inhabitants, and will soon be forgotten. 

The Carnival is a scene of masquerading, which should commence three 
days before Lent. It was formerly celebrated by the Spanish and Minor- 
can population, with much taste and gaiety ; but since the introduction of 
American population, it has, during the whole winter season been prosti- 
tuted, to cover drunken revels ; and to pass the basest objects of society, 
into the abodes of respectable people, to the great annoyance of the civil 
part of the community. It is not one of those pastimes that ought to be 
upheld, by the fostering hand of a moral society. 

Dancing is the favorite amusement of all our southern inhabitants. The 
Spanish dances are still preferred, by the natives, while the -Americans con- 
sider cotillions as more genteel, and object to the waltzing that is practised, 
and indeed mingled in all the Spanish parlies of pleasure. They are easy 
and graceful, and will probably preserve their present standing in Florida. 

Private entertainments are frequent in our old towns ; perhaps more fre- 
quent than prudence might dictate. We are a social and friendly people, 
but few of us have fortunes, to justify excess of fashionable amusements. 
Simple habits are commendable in a republican government, and all at- 
tempts at useless splendor ought to be discouraged. 

With our country people, hunting is a favorite amusement, and the abun- 
dance of wild game, that stocks our woodlands, renders the amusement 
useful and interesting. The training of our frontier inhabitants to the use 
of the rifle, is not the least of its benefits. 

TOWNS. 

St. Augustine is the oldest city in the United States. It was first set- 
tled by the Spaniards under Pedro Mendez, in 1564. It is situate two 
miles back from the Atlantic shore, near the southern point of a peninsula, 
nearly surrounded by water ; defended from the surf by Anastasia Island, 
which is not high enough to obstruct the sea brsezes, or a view of the 
ocean. The situation is peculiarly serene, healthy and pleasant. The 
site was originally a shell hammock, scarcely twelve feet higher than the 
surface of the sea. The soil, although sandy, is rich in calcareous and ve- 
getable deposites, finely calculated for horticultural pursuits. The town is, 
in fact, embosomed in a grove of orange trees* Abundance of fresh water 
is found near the surface of the ground, which, although it is not so pure as 
that of the country, is used without any inconvenience for all the purposes 
of drinking, cooking and washing. The climate of St. Augustine is pro- 
bably equal to any on earth. Snow is almost unknown, and frosts are 
felt in one or two months only of the year, and many winters pass without 

*1834, before the great frost. 



118 TOWNS. 

discovering a mark of frost. In the summer season the air is tempered 
daily by the sea breezes, while the land breezes render the evenings cool 
and pleasant. Heavy rains are frequent during the summer months, but 
from October to May the air is usually temperate, and the sky serene. 

In form, the town is a parallellogram, fronting to the east, on the Ma- 
tanzas Sound, which spreads a half mile in width between the town and 
Anastasia Island, forming a harbor sufficiently capacious to contain a large 
fleet in perfect safety. From the old magazine on the south to the gate- 
way on the north side of the city, the distance is about one mile, and from 
the Matanzas to the St. Sebastian's on the west, is about three fourths of a 
mile. Not more than one half of this extent is compactly built. It con- 
tains upwards of three hundred houses, more than half of which are 
built of shell stone, called by the Spaniards coquina. Most of the old 
houses are two stories high, the lower floor of which is of tabby* ; in some 
instances the upper floor and roof are of the same material. These are 
now generally removed, on account of their great weight, from the upper 
parts of the buildings. The principal streets cross each other at right an- 
gles, but they are narrow, and many of them very crooked. A fine large 
square opens from the Matanzas into the eastern part of the town, in the 
centre of which stands a monument, dedicated to the constitution of the 
Spanish Cortez. On the west side of the public square, where the old go- 
vernment house formerly stood, in the centre of ihe botanic garden, enclosed 
by high walls, a neat court house has been erected. It is two stories 
high ; in form of an L. It is built of coquina stone, and contains, besides 
the hall of justice, and jury rooms, apartments for all the public offices of 
the district. On the north stands a splendid catholic church, and the ruins 
of the old custom house, which was burnt down in January, 1825. On the 
south side are several elegant dwelling houses, and the new trinity church, 
a very neat edifice of the gothic order. In front of the harbor stands a neat 
market place ; dwelling houses and orange groves fill up the intervening 
spaces round the square, which give it rather a rural than commercial ap- 
pearance. 

Fort Marion stands at the north end of the town, directly opposite to the 
entrance of the harbor, which it perfectly commands. It is built after the 
system of Vauban, and is said to be a very good specimen of military archi- 
tecture. It is a trapizum with bastions at each corner, the walls are 21 

♦Tabby is formed by mixing' a quantity of lime with the fine coquina shell cast on shore 
by the tide. These materials are with fresh water mixed into a stiff mortar, and then spread 
from four to six inches thick, cither on the ground, or on a flooring of boards. It is then 
beat with a heavy stamper, similar to that used by pavers to smooth their work. When 
beat till no more wafer appears on the surface, it is left to dry. It is then in substance very 
similar to the coquina rock, except that the surface, by beating, becomes very smooth. 



TOWNS. 119 

feet high. The whole work is casemated, and bombproof. The ditch is 
forty feet wide. The covered way, glacis raveline and place of arms are 
entire, but the water batteries are giving awajr to the tides, which are rap- 
idly undermining its base, and require immediate repairs. The fort is cal- 
culated to contain one thousand fighting men, and formerly mounted seventy 
pieces of heavy ordinance. They are at present dismounted. A small 
part of the fort is still occupied as an arsenal ; the balance is used as a 
jail for criminals. The following inscription is sculptured in stone, under 
the Spanish arms, which are placed over the principal gate. 

Reynando en Espana el son Don Fernando sexto, y sierdo C4overnador y 
Coptan General di esta Plaza de san Augustin, de Florida, y su Provincia 
el Mariscal de campo D n Alonzo Fernandez de Heredia se conduyo este 
Castillo el ano de 1756, dirigiendo las abras el capitan ynginero Don Pedro 
de Brazas y Gar ay. 

Don Ferdinand the sixth being King of Spain, and the Field Marshal 
Don Alonzo Fernandoz de Hereda being Governor and Captain General 
of this place, St Augustine of Florida, and its province. This fort was 
finished in the year 1756. The works were directed by the captain engi- 
neer Don Pedro de Brazas y Garay. 

From the fort, a sea w T all seven feet high, and five feet thick, was exten- 
ded from the fort to the public square. This wall is now rebuilding at the 
expense of $50 000, under the superintendence of Mr Daney, late of the 
army, and will be extended in front of the whole city, to check the inroads 
daily made by the tides. Great injury has already been sustained, by one 
or two eastern gales, for want of this barrier. 

In the south part of the town, fronting the Matanzas, the barracks occu- 
py an important situation. It is erected on the ruins of an old pile of build- 
ings, formerly constructed by the Franciscan order of Friers, as the head 
quarters of their fraternity. The vessel which brought their General and 
principal men from Cuba, was wrecked on the coast, in sight of their dwell- 
ing, and the passengers and crew all perished. Since that time it has been 
occupied as a barracks, successively by the Spaniards and British, until it 
was destroyed by fire. Since the change of governments, it has been re- 
built at an expense of twenty-five thousand dollars. An extensive garden 
is attached to the building, which affords at times, abundant vegetables for 
the troops stationed there. 

The city contains 1739 inhabitants, of which 498 are males, 519 fe- 
males, 151 colored persons free, and 571 slaves. Of this population, nearly 
one-half are natives of the United States, the balance are descendants of the 
Minrocan families introduced by Doct. Turnbull ; Spaniards, French, En- 
glish, Greeks, and Italians, who are all rapidly amalgamating into one peo- 



120 TOWNS. 

pie, and will, ere long, assume a general national character. r They are social 
and friendly in their manners, kind and hospitable to strangers, industrious 
and frugal in their habits, fond of amusement, void of intemperance and 
public spirit, but content with their situation. The religion of at least one 
half of the inhabitants, is the Roman Catholic, the balance who profess 
any religion, are Presbyterians, Episcopalians, and Methodists. 

The market is rather scantily supplied with meat and vegetables. Fish 
arc 'abundant, of various kinds and finely flavored. Fowls are rather dear 
and scarce. 

Of schools there are few, and in the whole department of education, there 
is great room for improvement. We need schools to be established on a 
liberal foundation, such as would enable the poor as well as the rich to re- 
ceive instruction, and above all, the children of the old inhabitants should be 
encouraged to attend the same schools as the Americans, that their habits 
and manners ma}*- the sooner become united. 

Directly behind the town, an inlet of salt water enters from the southern 
marshes, and extends nearly to the north ditch. It is called Mary Sanches 
Creek. The space between this and the Matanzas River, is divided into 
squares of irregular dimensions. The western division between the creek 
and St. Sebastian's River, is laid off into lots of different size, from two to 
twenty acres. Most of these are covered with fruit trees, such as mulberry, 
plumb, peach, fig, pomegranate, and oranges. Across the creek, an excellent 
stone causeway is erected The St. Sebastian's is crossed by a bridge 500 
feet long, and a causeway is extended over the marshes, about seven hun- 
dred yards. The soil of the city and neighborhood is excellent for horticul- 
tural improvements, and much of it is cultivated in gardens, as well as 
groves. The timber which was originally abundant around the city, has 
in a long course of years been cut off to a considerable distance. Wood 
and fencing materials are consequently scarce and dear. Most of the lum- 
ber used here, is brought from northern parts. This renders building rather 
expensive. Notwithstanding this circumstance, the inhabitants are begin- 
ing to repair most of the old dwellings, and to erect some new and elegant 
buildings. The Presbyterian church in the south part of the town, has 
lately been enclosed, and finished in a plain but neat style. A small Me- 
thodist church was built in 1833, on Charlotte-street. 

The old Government House has, heretofore, been occupied by all classes 
of Protestants as a meeting-house, and also as a hall for the courts of jus- 
tice. This was once a large and splendid building. The extensive gar- 
den, enclosed by a formidable stone wall, and still containing a few ancient 
fruit trees, the remnants of Governor White's old and valuable botanic 
garden, now serves for the pen of a herd of swine, who appear the only 
.tenants of a spot lately devoted to the choicest gifts of Flora. 



TOWNS. 121 

The powder magazine, situated at the extreme south part of the town, 
is a large, plain, well-built house, constructed of stone and covered with 
tile. It is going rapidly to decay. 

At the opposite part of the town stands the gate-way. Its two bold 
pilasters remind us of years long past and gone. The old moat, also, and 
ditch, extends from the fort to the St. Sebastian's River. The public road 
crosses it over a decent stone bridge, under which the tide regularly ebbs 
and flows. 

The city contains ten lawyers, three doctors, one printer, seven dry goods 
stores, six boarding houses, thirteen groceries, one painter, seven carpenters, 
four masons, two blacksmiths, one gunsmith, two shoemakers, one baker, 
two tailors, one tanner, five segar makers, one regular packet, which runs 
to Charleston. 

The city is governed by a mayor and four aldermen ; they are chosen 
from any part of the city. The revenue amounts to about fifteen hundred 
dollars. It is raised by licences on stores, taverns, groceries, carts, and 
slaves. The languages usually spoken are English, Spanish, French, 
and Lingua Franca. 

St. Augustine has become a place of great resort for invalids, affected by 
pulmonary and bronchial complaints. To this circumstance and the sale 
of oranges, the place owes her prosperity. The accommodations for 
strangers are rapidly improving, and it is believed, that, in a short time, per- 
sons of the first rank, will be under no necessity for visiting Italy or the 
south of France, for the improvement of their health, as our climate is 
equally salubrious and the conveniences and luxuries of life may easily 
be obtained, when it is known that they will be required. 

Tallahasse, the seat of government for the Territory, is situated in Leon 
County, about twenty-two miles north of St. Marks, and about midway 
between the eastern and western extremities of the Territory, on a hio-h 
and commanding eminence, in the bosom of a fertile and picturesque coun- 
try. A pleasant mill-stream, the collected waters of several flue springs, 
winds along the eastern border of the city, until it falls fifteen or sixteen 
feet, into a gulf scooped out by its own current, and finally sinks into a 
cleft of limestone rock, at the base of an opposite hill. Numerous springs 
flow from the southern border of the town. In every part of the place 
good water may be obtained by sinking wells, from six to thirty feet, 
through a clay formation. In the spring of 1824 the first house was 
erected in Tallahassee. The first legislative council sat there, in the win- 
ter of the same year. In the winter of 1825 it was incorporated, and the 
government of the city was vested in an intendant and five aldermen. It 
now contains little short of fifteen hundred inhabitants, and three hundred 

16 



122 TOWNS. 

houses. The corner-stone of the state house was laid in January, 1826, 
and one wing of the building was erected during the same season. Sev- 
eral religious societies have since been established there. An academy, 
masonic lodge and chapter, an agricultural society, and. many others ; 
— two printing presses, and several public offices. The market is well 
supplied with meats of various kinds ; vegetables, fresh butter, cheese, 
fowls, eggs, &c, are abundant, and excellent of their kind. The situation 
is healthy and pleasant, and few places in the southern part of America 
are more rapidly improving. Within four years past, the limits of the 
town have been greatly extended, by grants of land from the United States, 
which have been laid off into lots, and many of them improved. It must, 
in a few years, become a charming place of residence ; it never was ex- 
pected to become a place of extensive commerce. A railroad, however, 
has been constructed to St. Marks, and much of the commercial business 
of the country will now be transacted here. 

Pensacola is situate on the north side of the bay of the same name 
about ten miles from the sea, in latitude 30° 23' 43" and in 10° 5' longi- 
tude west from Washington City. An establishment was made at the 
entrance of the bay by Ariola, in 1696, as a check on the French at Ba- 
loxi Bay. In 1719 this post was broken up by Bienville. The Spaniards 
then removed to the west end of St. Rosa, across the channel, and two 
wooden forts were erected to protect their village. But as the land was 
poor and water scarce, they obtained permission of the Pensacola Indians 
to plant on the north side of the bay an extensive field. Here, in time, a 
village was built round their corn field, now the public square. At length, 
the natives vanished by degrees, and the whole Spanish population concen- 
trated here. In 1763, when the English took possession of Florida, this 
was laid out in form of a city on an excellent plan. The streets were wide 
and crossed at right angles, making squares of four hundred by two hun- 
dred and fifty feet, with the large common fronting on the bay, one thou- 
sand six hundred feet long, by nine hundred wide. This square is now 
sold out in lots, except two small squares of 500 feet, at each end of the 
original common, and will soon form the most important part of the city. 
Most of the principal buildings were erected during this period. The two 
barracks, and Cassa Blanca, the residence of the governors, were superb 
buildings; they have since been burned down at different periods. Agri- 
culture was greatly encouraged, and commerce in lumber, naval stores, in- 
digo, skins, peltries, &c, was greatly extended. The gardens of Pensa- 
cola were the pride of Florida. Every city lot had appended to it a garden 
lot in the suburbs ; their ruins are still apparent, though overrun with 
weeds and bushes. In 1781 the Spaniards, under Count Galvez, again at- 



TOWNS. 123 

tacked and conquered'West Florida. Pensacola was defended by General 
Campbell, but the magazine at Fort St. Michael being blown up, the place 
surrendered. From this period the city declined. In 1814 the plan of the 
city suffered a reformation, like many that occur in our times. The gar- 
dens in the suburbs were sold at auction, in arpent lots, after which, none 
of them were ever improved. A slice was cut off the public square and 
built up. The body of the square was sliced into irregular lots, some of 
which were sold by the Intendant, and some by the Ayuntamento, to suit 
their private purposes. Streets were laid off to meet the general confusion, 
of various lengths and widths. Two small squares of five hundred by three 
hundred feet were saved from the confusion. The western, called the 
square of Ferdinand, and the eastern, the square of Seville. 

The public buildings in Pensacola are a court house, church, market 
house, custom house, and public store. An episcopal church has lately 
been erected. 

There is a wooden building two stories high, formerly the government 
house of the Spaniards. It stands near the bay, on the old common. It has 
lately been fitted up and painted by order of the government, and the yard 
has been enclosed with a handsome paling. But the orangery and out 
houses have been suffered to go to ruin.* 

The catholic church stands on the beach. It was formerly a warehouse, 
and is large enough for present use, but very inconvenient and illy calcu- 
lated for the purpose to which it is appropriated. 

The market house is a very neat building, situate at the foot of the 
square of Ferdinand, near the beach. The productions of the market are 
yet small, but improving. The beef is plenty and good. Pork, mutton, 
veal and venison rather dear. Fish are plenty and cheap ; oysters and 
crabs are also plenty. Vegetables have, within two years, increased in 
quantity and quality. The government of the city is vested in a mayor 
and nine aldermen, to whom is committed the police and fiscal concerns of 
the place. The health and quarantine regulations are referred to a board 
of health, appointed by the city council. The revenue amounts to about 
two thousand dollars per annum, drawn from a tax on real estate, slaves, 
pleasure carriages, saddle horses, and licenses on shops, stores, taverns, 
billard tables and carts. A large and extensive wharf is among the most 
useful of the late improvements. The number of inhabitants is less than 
two thousand. 

Magnolia was established in 1827, by some enterprising individuals, un- 
der the expectation that from its position on the river St. Marks, it would 
command the trade of the adjacent country. In this however, they have 

* The building since torn away. 
16* 



124 TOWNS. 

not been successful, as the trade has found its way fo St. Marks and Tal- 
lahasse. 

Gluincey, the seat of Justice for Gadsden County, was Jaid out in 1825 
in a rich tract of country, on the waters of Attapulgas Creek. It has im- 
proved into a pleasant village. 

Monticello was surveyed for the country seat of Jefferson County, at the 
beginning of 1S28. It has improved very considerably. A court-house 
and several respectable dwelling houses have been erected, and several 
stores established. The situation is high, and surrounded with springs of 
fine water. The site was formerly an old Indian town. It is twenty-five 
miles N. E. from Tallahasse, and two from the Micakasookej Lake. 

Marianna is situate on the Chipola River ; it was incorporated in 1829, 
and is a thriving country village. 

Webville had grown into a considerable village, before it was laid off 
into lots. It was incorporated in 1829, when one half of the lots sold for 
8000 dollars, at public auction. It is situate on the high grounds, about 
six miles west of the Chipola River, in a country of very rich land. 

Fernandina is a small village, established about the year 18C8, on the 
north end of Amelia Island, and is the seat of justice for Nassau Coun- 
ty. It became a considerable sea port, during the embargo times of Jeffer- 
son's administration ; but it has since that period, diminished to an incon- 
s'derable village. Its fine harbor, ihat used to contain at one time, 300 
sail of square-rigged vessels, is now scarcely visited by one ship in a year. 
It may st'll, at some future day, become a place of consequence. 

Jacksonville is the seat of Justice, for Duval County. It is situate on the 
north side of St. Johns River, at the Cowford, thirty miles from the bar. 
Here the Kings road crosses the river. It contains a large courthouse, a 
jail, and several private dwellings. 

Appalachicola is a sea port town situated on a bluff, at the mouth of the 
River Appalachicola ; west side. It was incorporated in 1830. The 
plan of this town was re-modelled and improved in 1836, since which 42 
brick stores and ware-houses, besides many wooden dwellings and stores, 
have been already added to the improvements of this thriving place. 

This town has one large hotel, three taverns and private boarding 
houses. It has two banks; is a seat of admiralty jurisdiction, and issues 
one newspaper, the Appalachicola Gazette. 

The exports of Appalachicola were last year, 58,500 bales of cotton, — 
and including its foreign as well at domestic trade, there were 300 entries, 
and the same number of clearances at the customhouse, from the 1st Septem- 
ber, 1836, to 1st July, 1837, a large proportion of them ships and square 
rigged vessels. There are twenty steam-boats besides barges and small 
crafts employed in the navigation of the river Appalachicola. 



TOWNS. 125 

Shell Point, a few miles west of the Appalache, is a pleasant and healthy 
situation, which the proprietors are laying off into lots, for the accommoda- 
tion of those who wish to avail themselves of a pleasant summer retreat, on 
the sea shore. 

St. Josephs, a new town commenced in 1836, on the east shore of St. 
Josephs Bay, from which a rail road is constructed to lake Wimeco, is a 
thriving town where considerable capital is embarked. It has already a 
Printing Office, a Hotel, &c. 

Mico is the seat of justce for Hamilton County: Ochesee is a town laid 
out at the Ochesee bluffs, on the Appalachicola River. Vernon is another 
laid off eight miles below the junction of Chattahooche and Flint Rivers. 
Aspalaga is situate between the two last mentioned towns. 

Key West is a town on the north end of the Island, of the same name. 
It is finely situated for commerce, admitting into the harbor, vessels draw- 
ing 27 feet water ; and capable of being well fortified. It maj' yet become 
the key of the Gulf of Mexico. It was incorporated in 1829, and laid off 
into lots the same year. It contains a court house and jail, two extensive 
ware houses, 14 stores, 8 groceries, and about 60 dwelling houses, 10 Law- 
yers, 2 Physicians, and about 600 inhabitants. The wages of mechanics 
are high, and there is good encouragement for every species of industry. 
There is a channel passing by the west side of Key West, into the Gulf of 
Mexico in a N. W. direction, through which vessels may pass, drawing 9 
feet water. This is not only safer than the circuit round the Tortugus's, 
but it shortens the distance 90 miles. 

COUNTIES. 

The Territory is divided into twenty counties, Escambia, Walton, Wash- 
ington, Jackson, Gadsden, Leon, Jefferson, Madison, Hamilton, Allachua, 
Nassau, Duval, St. Johns, Musquito, Monroe, Fayette, Columbia, Franklin, 
Dade and Hillsborough. 

Escambia county is bounded west by the Perdido Bay, north by the 
31st degree of north latitude, which divides it from Alabama, east by Wal- 
ton, south by the Gulf of Mexico. It is about fifty-four miles long, from 
east to west, and fifty miles wide, from north to south. A large portion of 
the land in this county, is poor pine barren. The Bay of Pensacola enters 
the heart of it, and the lagoons and rivers connected with it, spread through 
every part, and bring a good navigation, to the very doors of the inhabit- 
ants. Small hammocks skirt these navigable waters, presenting eligible 
situations for country seats. 

The pine lands, on the waters of the Perdido, afford excellent grazing and 
much good pine timber. The bottom lands on the Escambia River are 
very rich, but are subject to be overflown. A kind of second bottom, or 
hammock rises between the interval and the pine lands : these are generally 



126 TOWNS. 

cultivated and produce very good crops. Excellent springs of pure water 
burst out from the foot of the pine ridges. The peninsula between the 
Pensacola and Yellow Water Bays, is covered with pine and black jack 
timber, some savannas of good moist grazing land and a few hammocks. 

The pine level is an extensive tract of land, spreading from the Escambia 
to the Black Water River. It is watered by numerous springs that unite 
in the Cold Water Creek, a branch of Black Water. The best farms in this 
country are situated here. The soil is a sandy clay, which yields good 
crops of corn, potatoes, peas, upland rice and green seed cotton, peaches, 
grapes and vines. Apples and figs do well, and will in future, be greatly 
increased. The peninsula between Pensacola Bay and St. Rosa Sound, 
is a mixture of pine and black jack ridges, bordered with hammocks of live 
oak, black oak, red bay, magnolia, &c. with strips of wet savanna, giving 
rise to abundance of fine streams that fall into the bay and sound at short 
intervals. The land on this peninsula, from Town Point, to Williams Creek, 
was purchased and appropriated by the former administration, for a live oak 
plantation, as an appendage to the Naval Depot, at Tartar Point. Notwith- 
standing the favorable reports of the commissioners of the Naval Depar- 
ment, appointed to examine and report on this location, it has furnished to 
the ignorant and the designing a fruitful source of complaint, against the 
Delegate in Congress. Much of the land had been formerly cultivated, and 
the large timber cut off. A new growth of young trees, of various descrip- 
tions, had succeeded. The course of improvement has been to cut away 
all other timber, except the young live oaks, to prune them and keep out 
the pines. In this way, thirty thousand trees are preserved in a rapid state 
of growth, which will be ready to supply the navy, when the old trees are 
all cut from the public lands. This live oak plantation is about twenty-five 
miles long and from one to three miles wide. From the live oak plantation 
to the Chactawhatche Bay, the sound presents many picturesque scenes, 
and several tracts of excellent land, especially at the west end of the lake ; 
and the main land, on the east side of Pensacola Bay, affords excellent graz- 
ing land and fine timber ; it is traversed by many streams of good water 
which rise on the high lands, north of the Chactawhatche Bay. Between the 
Black Water and Yellow Water Rivers, the pine ridges are usually poor land. 
In all the waters that traverse this county, fish and oysters are abun- 
dant, and excellent of their kinds. It is generally speaking, a healthy 
country ; the see breezes cool the air during summer, and generally prevent 
the effects of frost during the winter season. The establishment of a Naval 
Depot, and the erection of a large fort on the west end of St. Rose Island, 
have, and will for a long time to come, give employment to every species of 
industry, and afford great facilities to commercial speculation. A great 



COUNTIES. 127 

quantity of good land remains uncultivated. Exhaustless banks of clay 
render brick making a lucrative employment, and the grazing of cattle is 
still pursued with great success. 

WaltdYi County is fifty-four miles long, from east to west, and thirty-six 
miles wide, from north to south. It is bounded north by the thirty-first de- 
gree of north latitude, east by Washington County, south by the Chactaw- 
hatche Bay, and west by Escambia County. This county is diversified with 
knolls and ridges of very poor land, and hammocks of great extent, of a 
very excellent quality. The most extensive tracts are the Uche and Ali- 
qua vallies, the Yellow Water Settlement, the hammocks of McDavids 
pond and those on the north side of Chactawhatche Bay. A high ridge 
divides the waters that descend easterly into the Uche Creek, and Aliqua 
River, south into the Chactawhatche Bay, west into Pensacola Bay, and 
north into Shoal River. The north and south sides are steep and cut up 
with deep ravines, the east end terminates in sharp peaks, the west end 
slopes gradually into the low pine lands. This ridge is more than thirty 
miles long, generally sandy, but, in some parts covered with iron sand 
stone, which does not appear to enter deeply into the earth : the noblest 
springs issue from its sides, descending with rapid currents to the Bay on 
the south, and to Shoal River on the north side. At a distance of three or 
four miles from their sources, they become deep enough to navigate with 
large boats. These waters are very pure and cold. Five considerable 
streams are thus formed and pass into the Bay. Twin Creek is the first 
that enters Lafayette Bay, a western arm of the Chactawhatche. This 
Bay extends 7 miles into the country. There are three principal branches 
that unite and form Boggy Creek, which is navigable four miles from the 
Bay. Rock Creek is also navigable seven miles from the bay. Ali- 
qua is the largest of the streams, that rise in this county. It is navi- 
gable, fifteen miles from the Bay. It then divides into three principal 
streams, that head in the knolls, which terminate the great ridge ; they 
interlock with the heads of Shoal Creek. The two eastern branches undu- 
late through extensive cane brakes, and water a large extent of good land 
supported by a substratum of soapstone. The Aliqua enters the bay, over 
a bar of five feet water. 

The Yellow Water Settlement is in the north part of the county, on both 
sides of the river of that name. Here is a tract of excellent land, very well 
improved for a new country. The droughts of summer, affect this tract of 
country less than any other part of Florida. Cotton, corn, potatoes, rice, 
peas and vines make up the principal sum of the crops. Fruits, especially 
peaches, succeed perfectly well. Mills were early established, and since 
the river below has been opened, this settlement enjoys a convenient market 
for their produce. 



128 COUNTIES. 

The Uche Creek vises north of the Aliqua, and after running a course of 
thirty miles S. E. it falls into the Chactawhatche River, twenty miles from 
the bay. The valley watered by this creek is among the best land in the 
county. It is founded on limestone. Here is a large settlement of indus- 
trious Scotch farmers, who till their lands with their own hands, assisted 
with very few slaves, and are rapidly increasing in wealth and respecta- 
bility. 

On the north line of the county there is a thriving settlement of farms 
around McDavid's pond, a very handsome sheet of pure water, of an oval 
form, about three miles long and two broad. The land on its borders is 
formed of a rich clay and sand, which produces excellent crops of corn, 
cotton, etc. From this pond a large creek issues and unites with Shoal 
Creek. The farmers of Walton County are generally a stout, industrious, 
hardy and healthy class of people, very attentive to their own business, and 
are calculated to support a very fair standing in the mixed population of 
Florida. About one-third of this county is good, tillable land. On the 
east side of the Aliqua river the streams head in gentle vales, like grass 
savannas, from which they pass into brakes of reed cane, and then titi 
thickets succeed, and ultimately the banks become covered with forests of 
oak, hickory, magnolia, gum, and poplars. It is, on the whole, a beautiful 
country. 

Washington County is about fifty-four miles long, from Hickory Hill 
to St. Joseph's Bay on the south, and ninety from the Pass L' Este on 
the west, to St. Joseph's Bay on the east. It is an irregular triangle in 
shape. This county boasts of one of the finest bays in Florida. The St. 
Andrews occupies the heart of the county. The hammocks on its banks 
contain live oak sufficient to build a navy, and although there is much poor 
land contained in its limits, especially along the sea-shore, yet there is al- 
ready two very good settlements. Holmes Valley on the east side of the 
Chactawhatche River, extends eastward ten or twelve miles, parallel with 
Holmes Creek, from which it is separated by a sand ridge from one to two 
miles wide. It contains from eight to ten sections of good land, sunk near- 
ly one hundred feet below the level of the surrounding pine country. The 
soil is a dark sandy loam, covered with white, black, red and water oak, — 
white ash, black gum, wild cherry, red bay, and magnolia, with witch hazel, 
pawpaw, sassafras, and haw shrubs, the whole mixed with wild cane of an 
extraordinary large growth. A good mill stream runs through it, collected 
from springs which issue abundantly from the sides of the valley. Near 
these springs, in the pine woods, the inhabitants usually fix their residences, 
while they cultivate their fields in the valley below. The lands in this 
valley are well cultivated by a hardy, industrious people. 



COUNTIES. 129 

Holmes Creek rises in Richmond County, Alabama, passes through 
the north-west corner of Jackson County, and falls into the east side of the 
Chactawhatchee River, about seven miles above the Cow Ford. This 
creek has a channel deeper than the river, and the enterprise of Messrs. 
Shackleford and Merlet has rendered it navigable, as far as Hard Labor 
Creek, by clearing out the timber, which had before that time obstructed 
the channel. They have erected warehouses about forty miles from its ' 
mouth, to receive the produce of the Chipola planters. The Big Spring 
of Chactawhatche rises near the mouth of this creek, with which it 
unites its waters. Six feet of water can be carried from the bay into this 
spring, which will be hereafter more particularly described. Groves of 
fine cypress clothe the margins of this creek, and a few good hammocks 
skirt its banks. 

There is another very good settlement on the Econfina River, which is 
navigable fifteen miles from the Bay of St. Andrews. The limestone lands 
on this stream are very fertile, producing in a natural state, the finest groves 
of white oak in Florida : there is also a large quantity of wild cherry and 
red cedar of superior quality. All the productions of this country are 
raised in abundance here. Numerous springs of fine water are found con- 
venient to every farm, and the county is healthy as it is fertile. 

The hammocks on the north side of the main body of the bay and of 
the eastern arm are extensive and rich, and will afford excellent farms, for 
ten or twelve miles, with good grazing lands in the rear. They will also 
enjoy every facility of commerce, with the finest fish and oysters at their 
doors. The lands north of this arm of the bay are clayey, and although 
covered with pine timber, are, for the most part, capable of successful cul- 
tivation. The banks of the Chipola are in many places very fertile. The 
western arm between the sea and Chactawhatche Bay is covered with 
sand hills, scrub, and miserable swamps. The borders of the bay are an 
exception, having some very good hammock lands. From the east end of 
the bay to the Econfina River, there are extensive ranges of ponds, with 
poor pine ridges between. In progress of time its commercial advantages 
may render this county one of the most important in the Territory. 

Jackson County is bounded north by the Alabama line ; east, by the 
Chattahooche and Appalachicola Rivers ; south, by Washington County ; 
and west, by Walton County. It is forty-eight miles in length, from east 
to west, and thirty-two from north to south. It is one of the most 
populous counties in the Territory. Near the centre of the north line 
arises Spring Creek, from several very large springs which rise on both 
sides of the line ; this is the largest tributary stream of the Chipola River, 
which rises in Richmond and Columbia Counties, Alabama. It meanders 

17 



ISO COUNTIES. 

through the heart of Jackson County, more distinguished for the good 
lands on its borders, than for its size or beauty. 

From the natural bridge, to the head of Spring Creek, a distance of near- 
ly twenty miles, the rich land extends three or four miles west of the river, 
but narrow on the east side. The soil is a soft chocolate colored loam, on 
red clay, and amorphous limestone. The timber in a state of nature, large 
white oaks, gum, hickory, and dogwood, thickly filled up with cane. The 
lands also, on the borders of the Chattahooche and Appalachicola, are very 
fine. There is also a considerable extent of good land about the Big Spring 
of Chipola, near the south line. Here also are some excellent farms under 
cultivation. In the western part of the county, oak and hickory hills, almost 
the only eminences in the country, stand insulated in the pine barren, which 
extends a great distance around them ; above this plain they are elevated 
some hundreds of feet, covered with a rich soil and forests of oak and hick- 
ory timber, of a very large size ; the finest wild cherry in the Territory, 
white ash, chesnut, black gum, sorrel and red bay, with an under-growth 
of cane. Oak hill is nearly round and may contain one and a half sections 
of good land. Hickory hill stands about two miles distant, in a western di- 
rection ; it throws off a spur or ridge, which extends about six miles to the 
S. W. Both these hills derive their names from the timber that predomi- 
nates on them. Hickory hill contains four or five sections of good land, 
some of it excellent. Abundant springs gush from the sides of these hills, 
many of which are absorbed by the sands of the plains below. Dry Creek, 
and Hard Labor, are the only two streams that convey currents through 
the pine barren. The balance of this county consists of pine barrens, inter- 
sected with ponds and sink holes. The caves, natural bridges, and noble 
springs of this country, are noted under the head of natural curiosities. The 
limestone that subtends the whole region, varies considerably in quality 
in different parts, which has an evident effect on the natural productions 
of the soil. 

Gadsden county extends from the Georgia line, to the Gulf of Mexico, 
a distance of sixty-six miles, and from the Appalachicola to the Oclockony 
River, from thirty to thirty-six miles. Dog Island, on the coast, is attach- 
ed to it. The lands on the Appalachicola are very rich, covered with very 
large timber, interspersed with luxuriant cane brakes. Musquito Creek and 
Sweet Water, small b anches of the Appalachicola, water considerable 
tracts of good land on the west, while Little River and its branches, spread 
over the N. E. quarter of the county, and irrigate some of the finest land in 
the Territory. The Oclockony is navigable for large boats. Vessels drawing 
six feet water, can enter the bay, and ascend as far as the crooked stream will 
render it profitable. The principal settlements are on the Attapulgas, Rocky 
Comfort, and Robinson's Creek, branches of Little River, which enters the 



COUNTIES. 131 

Oclockony, about five miles below the Tallafaasse road. The high grounds 
between the Appalachicola and the waters of the Oclockony, are usually 
pine barren. The south part of the county is covered with pahnettoes, 
ponds and swamps. Low marsh lands border the Oclockony bay. Alliga- 
tor Harbor lies south of this bay, in front of James Island, which is formed 
between the two arms of the Oclockony River. This county already em- 
braces a valuable population, which is daily increasing. Quincy, the seat 
of justice, is situate on the west side of the Attapulgus Creek. 

Leon County is bounded west by the Oclockony River, north by 
Decatur County, Georgia, east by Jefferson County, and south by Appa- 
lache Bay. It is forty-eight miles long, from north to south, and thirty- 
eight, from east to west. The sea coast is generally marshy. Four miles 
east of the Oclockony Bay, there is a little archipelago of islands, some of 
them covered with live oak and cedar, but many others only with grass and 
reeds. The Appalache Bay makes a sweep, of something like one hun- 
dred miles ; the circle is very gradual. The water is shoal, for many miles 
into the sea. The bottom, an amorphous limestone, with nodules of flint or 
hornstone. Oysters grow to the rock, in large masses, and grass is so 
abundant, even to the depth of several feet, that the coast at low tide, has the 
appearance of a green meadow. The forests rarely approach within three 
or four miles of the tide. On these marshes however, there are frequent 
keys, which rise like small islands, covered with live oak, cedar and cabbage 
palms. These are most frequent, where streams of water enter the hay. 
The high grounds, bordering the marshes, are usually rocky, but covered 
with a great variety of heavy timber. A ridge of rocks, runs parallel with 
the coast, at about six to nine miles distance ; it does not rise high, above 
the surface of the earth, but causes ripples and falls, in all the streams that 
pass into the bay, east of the Wakully. There are many rich hammocks, 
on the borders of the Appalache Bay, and the streams, that fall into it 
There are also detached hammocks that are surrounded by fine lands, 
The latter kinds are most frequent, between the Oclockony and Wakully. 
Much of the pine land near the bay, has a rich soil and is very productive. 
The streams are usually so full of grass, as to impede the navigation. 

The whole county abounds in lakes, ponds, subterranean rivers, sink holes 
and large springs. To the distance of about twenty miles, from the coast, 
on the rocky pine lands, the waters are strongly tinctured with lime, but 
upon the uplands, the springs and streams are very pure. The flat country 
abounds in fine yellow pine timber, under which the wild grass grows luxu- 
riantly. It is a good grazing county, and much of it might be profitably 
cultivated, especially with sea island cotton, where the quality of the cotton 
is far superior to that produced on the uplands. From this level tract of 
pine land, the county rises in gentle swells, of red and white clay, covered 



132 COUNTIES. 

with an excellent brown soil, and crowned with wide spreading oaks, tall 
hickories, liriodendrons, magnolia and gum trees. Between the swells, 
every valley is enlivened with streams of pure water. They however gen- 
erally sink into the earth, before they leave the upland country. This kind 
of land, in many places, extends into Georgia. In other parts, the low pine 
country makes deep indentations among the hills. The argilaceous re- 
region extends through this county, from east to west ; in width, it is from 
ten to twenty miles. The traces of subterranean rivers, which sometimes 
burst from the earth, only to sink again; the very great diversity of soil, 
scenery and timber, renders the county of Leon, a situation of much interest 
to the curious. One half of the lands in this county is considered to be 
very good and the greater part of the other moiety, tolerable. This part of 
Florida is rapidly settling by men of wealth and enterprize. The face of 
it is covered with extensive fields of cane, cotton, and corn. Ease and op- 
ulence are the certain results of a moderate industry. 

Tallahasse, the capital of the Territory, is rapidly increasing in wealth 
and population. Magnolia has already become a place of considerable 
commerce, and St. Mark's, since the completion of the rail road to Talla- 
hasse, has become a place of active business, and, if not retarded by fe- 
vers, may become a port of great commercial consequence. 

Jefferson county is bounded west by the county of Leon, north by the 
Georgia line, east by the Ocilla and its eastern branch, and south by the 
Gulf of Mexico. It is about 39 miles long and 18 miles wide. The north 
end of it is very good land. The best is, perhaps, in the neighborhood of 
Monticello, the county seat. It was formerly an old Indian town. The 
principal Mickasooky towns were situate on the eastern borders of the 
lake, which bounds this county on the west. There is also considerable 
first rate land in the forks of the Ocilla river. These lands were occupied 
and cultivated by the Seminole Indians after the Mickasooky towns were 
broken up by General Jackson. The Massasaugea Sinks are situated 
about two miles S. E. from the lake, on the line between Leon and Jeffer- 
son counties. Here the waters of the lake, with several other streams 
unite, and together plunge into the earth. On one of these streams Col. 
Baily has erected extensive mills, &c. Colonels White, Gadsden, Murat 
and Gamble, and many other gentlemen of distinction, have extensive 
plantations in this county. 

Madison county is bounded by Jefferson county on the west, the Georgia 
line on the north, the Withlacooche and Suwanne rivers on the east, and 
the Gulf of Mexico on the south. It is about 96 miles long and 48 wide. 
It is diversified with very good and very poor land. The north and west 
have excellent tracts of considerable extent. The centre is generally poor. 



COUNTIES. 133 

The S. E. has many sections of very superior sugar land. The principal 
settlements are north of the road leading from Tallahasse 1o St. August- 
ine. This part of the country is rolling oak land, interspersed with fine 
springs and streams of water. Old Hick's Town was formerly a favorite 
settlement of the Seminoles. The borders of San Pedro Lake were early 
occupied by the Spaniards as a missionary establishment. Much of the 
pine land on the great road, east of the Ocilla, is rich and productive. The 
Histahatchee, Chattahatchee, and Achenahatchee, and Fcenahalloway, a 
large branch of the Ocilla, water the southern part of the county. A 
great number of small lakes are scattered over it ; of these, the largest is 
San Pedro, which is the source of the Chattahatchee. The south-east 
corner, near the Suwanne, contains some excellent cane lands ; some va- 
luable settlers are opening plantations here. 

Hamilton county is bounded west by the Withlacooche River, north by 
the Georgia line, east and south by the Little Suwanne River. It is 
about 36 miles long and 20 in the widest part. This county has acquired 
a considerable population in a short time. It is said to contain much good 
land, and is finely watered. The Little Suwanne skirts it for 40 miles. 
The Allappahaw passes through the centre, and the Withlacooche washes 
the western side. The line which separates it from Georgia, runs on a 
ridge that divides the waters which fall into the Suwanne on the south, 
and the Oquefanoke Swamp on the north. Mico, situate in the forks of 
Allappahaw, is the seat of justice. 

Columbia County is bounded west by the Suwanne River; noith, by 
the Georgia line ; east, by the St. Mary's River and Duval County ; and 
south by Allachua County. It is about seventy-two miles long and sixty 
wide. It contains much poor pine barren land. In the northern part there 
are detached spots of good farming land. In the southern part, about the 
Santaffe and its tributary streams and lakes, there is considerable good 
land. The settlements are much scattered over the county. It is almost 
surrounded by the Suwanne, the St. Marys, and the Santaffe Rivers. 

Ocean, or Randolph Lake is situated about twelve miles from the St. 
Marys, on the north side of the road leading to St. Augustine ; it is about 
seven miles long and five wide ; it discharges its waters into the St. Marys. 
Alligator Lake is, in a wet season, three miles long and two wide ; but in 
a dry season, the waters of six considerable streams sink into the earth : — 
the surface of the land is soon covered with grass, and herds of cattle are 
seen during summer, where shoals of fishes and alligators swim during the 
winter season. When a sudden drought has withdrawn the waters, 
millions of fish have been left to perish on the muddy bottom. The al- 
ligators are more provident, — they withdraw with the water to the great 



134 COUNTIES. 

sink hole. Whether the waters of the lake arise again at New River, & 
branch of the Santaffe, or at Echalucne, a great spring south of the 
natural bridge, is uncertain : both are large creeks that arise at once from 
the earth, not many miles distant. There are several other large lakes 
in this county, but little known. Gadsdens' Spring is celebrated for its 
medical qualities ; it is situated in the seventeenth section of the first town- 
ship in range fourteen, on the south bank of the Little Suwanne. It is 
situated on the bank of the river, is about sixty feet across, and thirty to 
forty deep. A small village is here incorporated. This county is a fine 
grazing tract both for cattle and hogs. 

Duval County is bounded north and north-west by Nassau ; east, by the 
Atlantic and St. Johns River ; south, by Allaehua ; and west, by Columbia 
Counties. It is about eighty-four miles long and thirty wide. The seat of 
justice is at Jacksonville, on the north side of the St. Johns River, about 
thirty miles from the sea. The eastern part of this county is low and 
marshy. The Nassau River separates it from the county of that name 
on the north. On the bar of that river there is eight feet water, but the 
country affords but few objects for commercial enterprise. Some live oak 
has been cut. In some future time, rice plantations will be cultivated. 
Considerable business is done on the St. Johns. Live oak to a considerable 
amount is annually exported — cotton, oranges, lemons, moss, jerked beef, 
and lumber. Both sides of the St. Johns is cultivated by industrious far- 
mers. There is a safe inland passage from the St. Johns to Savanna. 
Steam Boats have already passed back and forth from that place, and it is 
confidently expected that much business will hereafter be done in that line. 
Groves of fruit, trees are rapidly extending, cotton farms, and sugar planta- 
tions are increasing in number and extent. Black Creek, a tributary of 
St. Johns, is a fine navigable stream for fifteen miles. Should the canal 
ever be carried into effect across the peninsula, the forks of Black Creek 
will become a valuable situation for business. The islands of Fort George 
and Talbot are well cultivated, and produce abundance of provisions and 
fruit. The first is wholly owned by Mr. Kingsley, the second by Messrs. 
Houston and Christopher. 

Nassau County is bounded west and north by St. Marys River ; east by 
the Atlantic ; and south, by Duval County. The lands of Nassau are 
generally low and level, but it is well settled by an industrious and thriving 
population. Amelia Island extends the whole length of its eastern line, 
and is divided from the main land by a navigable sound, which has lately 
been improved by a canal about half a mile in length. The Harbor cf 
Fernandina is the best south of Chesapeake Bay. Some of the planta- 
tions on the St. Marys are very productive in rice and sugar. The plan- 



COUNTIES. 135 

tation called White Oak while it belonged to Z. Kingsley, Esq., is said to 
have produced crops of the value of ten thousand dollars in one year. In 
1829 he made five thousand bushels of rough rice, fifty hogsheads of 
sugar, besides a large quantity of cotton, corn, peas, potatoes, &c. The 
seat of justice for Nassau County has lately been removed from Fernan- 
dina to a settlement north of Nassau River. 

Allachua County extends from the south line of Columbia, south to the 
Talassee pond, and Paines Landing, a distance of sixty-six miles. And 
from Orange Lake, on the east to the Wakasasse Bay, and Suwanne 
River on the west, forty-eight miles. It embraces oneof the largest tracts 
of good land in the Territory. It was from the time of its first discovery, by 
de Soto to the present day, covered by a dense population. In 1812, the 
seat of the Seminole nation, governed by Paine, and Bowlegs was in this 
county, and so continued till their power was broken by Col. Newnan. The 
site of their principal towns, i3 comprehended in the grant of land made to Ar- 
redondo. This county embraces the great Lakes of Orange, Pithlachucco, 
and Hogmasters, and the Prairies of Allachua, Kanappaha, Wakahoota, 
and many others. The great plantation of Lang Syne, Oakland and 
Tarvers, and many others, produced great quantities of sugar and provi- 
sions. The herds of cattle, and droves of horses that ranged over these 
prairies, were almost innumerable; good judges have estimated that the 
Seminoles have, since this war commenced, driven off more than thirty 
thousand head. The Allachua savanna, is during the winter season, usu- 
ally covered with water if the season be very wet ; a stream flows from it 
into Orange Lake. But as the dry season approaches, the water with- 
draws into a sink hole, near the north shore, and leaves a green meadow 
fifteen miles from east to west, and six from north to south. It is probably 
one of the best spots for grazing in the world. The grass is often so tall 
as to hide the droves of cattle, and deer from sight. The sink hole that re- 
ceives these waters is a deep rocky dell in the north bank of the prairie, 
shaded with lofty oaks, and here in the dry season may be seen innume- 
rable fishes and alligators. A large stream runs from the Pithlachucco 
Lake, through part of the savanna into this Sink Hole. Almost any quan- 
tity of fine trout may be caught in this stream. The hammock lands, on 
the borders of this great prairie, are very rich and afforded many delightful 
prospects, and many rich farms, before the Seminole war. 

From the Allachua uplands, the country descends westward, about 
twenty miles, to the Wakasasse River, is covered with pine timber, and is 
diversified by a variety of grass ponds and swamps. The Wakasasse is 
formed by the collection of many springs and drains, from the wet savan- 
nas. The whole country is excellent for grazing. 



136 COUNTIES. 

From the Wakasasse to the Suwanne, the country ia rolling pine land 
until you approach the coast, when it becomes flat and wet, in many places 
very swampy. 

Dade County, erected expressly in memory of the lamented officer, who 
was massacred by the Seminoles, is bounded by Allachua County on the 
north, the Seminole reserve on the east, Tampa Bay on the south, and the 
Gulf of Mexico on the west. Ouithlacooche River gives a leading feature to 
this county J\A.t some future period, this river will be the great thoroughfare 
across the peninsula. There is no other place where the Atlantic and the 
Gulf can be connected at so small an expense, nor where the fertile lands 
of the east, can be so generally benefit'ted by such a communication. From 
the Ouithlacooche to Chicuchatte Settlements, there is a great quantity of 
excellent land, but it is interspersed with very poor lands in a singular man- 
ner. The Big Hammock, is the largest tract unbroken by waste lands in this 
part of Florida. The Olocklikane, or Spotted Lake, is a tract of grass 
meadow, covered from one to six feet deep with water, sprinkled all over with 
islets of rich land and cypress swamps. Many of these spots were, before 
the war, and perhaps are at this time, thickly settled with Seminoles. Col. 
Lane explored two of them, on which he found 150 cabins, cultivated 
fields, and 700 head of cattle. One of the old Indian negroes, long ago, in- 
formed us that on one of these islands the Seminole chiefs kept their magazine 
of ammunition concealed from the great body of their own people. West of 
the Olocklikany, the country falls westward over rather barren pine lands 
to the Gulf. The country around Chicuchatty, is high table land formed 
of the rich red clay, so predominant in Middle Florida. In this part of the 
country there are many delightful situations for planters, with pleasant and 
extensive prospects, fine air, abundant springs of good water, and excellent 
grazing land. 

Hillsborough County, is bounded north by Dade, east by the Indian Re- 
serve, south by Charlotte Harbor, and west by the Gulf of Mexico. This 
County embraces Tampa Bay. 

On the east side of Hillsborough Bay the pine lands have a good sub-soil 
of rich clay. Southwest of Manatee River, on the borders of Tampa, and 
progressing towards the Sarrazota Bay, there is considerable live oak ham- 
mock, interspersed with cane and tall palmettoes. The soil appears to be 
rich. The best part of these hammocks are about Oyster Creek. On the 
east side of the Sarrazota there has been a considerable tract improved, and 
would now afford a fine settlement. From this to Charlotte Bay, the lands, 
so far as they have been explored, are poor. Some beautiful situations are 
found on the coast, especially about Palm Sound ; below which, the pine 
lands extend to the Gulf for a distance of 12 or 15 miles, to Cleni Sound, 



COUNTIES. 137 

an arm of Charlotte Bay. In addition to Arridendo's Allachua grant, 
there is another of eight leagues square, 308,640 acres, claimed by the 
heirs of Miranda, situate on the heads of Hillsborough and Tampa Bays. 
This grant contains a fine commercial situation and considerable good land. 
The title is now before the Superior Court of this District, and will proba- 
bly be soon decided. The tract of country embraced within the boundaries 
of this county, would probably have been well settled by this period, had 
the titles been decided. 

The seat of justice is established at Newnansville, now in Columbia, 
until another be selected, south of the SantafTe, and a little village is rising 
around it. 

St. John's County is bounded north by Duval, east by the Atlantic, south 
by Musquito, and west by Allachua and Duval. It is about 72 miles 
long, and from thirty to forty-eight miles wide. This county contains much 
valuable land, and most of it is situate on navigable waters. The St. 
John's river passes through the western part, while the eastern side is 
abundantly watered by the North River and Matanzas Sound, branches 
that disembogue at the St. Augustine Inlet. The north part of the county 
embraces the Cabbage Swamp and Diego Plains, both containing superior 
land. They are separated from Durbin and Twelve Mile Swamps by a 
ridge of pine land, three or four miles wide, which extends from the north 
line to St. Augustine. There is a considerable settlement around Julington 
Creek. Although the hammocks are not extensive, yet the pine land 
five or six miles from the river, has a rich clay foundation, and produces 
excellent crops. The shores of St. John's river are generally clothed with 
forests of live oak and orange trees. In many places the soil has been ex- 
hausted by long cultivation ; but there are still more than have ever been 
improved. It is generally believed that the eastern side of the St. John's 
produce better lemons, citrons and oranges than the west; that fruit is 
larger, and the trees less liable to receive injury from storms ; we think 
these opinions incorrect. Cotton and corn grow equally well on the west 
side, and the few experiments made, in cane, have been perfectly success- 
ful. While the English occupied Florida, this fine river was skirted with 
rich plantations, nearly to Lake George. Some of their distinguished no- 
bility and statesmen had seats on its waters. The ruins of their mansions 
are now mouldering in dust. 

At this time there is but one considerable establishment above Palatka, 
which is a little south of St. Augustine, except the hammocks, which 
border the small streams running into the St. John's and the Atlantic. 
There are in this county several swamps of very rich land. Cabbage, 
Durbin and Twelve Mile have already been noticed. There is, besides, 

18 



138 COUNTIES. 

Turnbull, which extends from Six Mile Creek to the south end of Twelve 
Mile Swamp. Pivit lies two and a half miles west of St. Augustine ; in 
which Mr. Hanson has now in successful operation a large sugar planta- 
tion. Cowan Swamp lies two miles west of it, at the head of a western 
branch of Moultrie Creek. The last mentioned swamps contain several 
sections of good farming land within 4 miles of St. Augustine. All the 
lands on the North River, which extends 25 miles north of St. Augustine, 
are good. Many of them have been exhausted by long cultivation, but 
the means of renovating them are at hand, in the salt marshes that skirt 
the river. The tract situate between the river and Guanna Creek, has all 
been cultivated time out of mind, and was nearly abandoned, when Mr. 
Jenckes, a gentleman from Rhode Island, purchased New Waterford, near 
the head of the river, and has already rendered it a delightful spot. Mr. 
Perpall is now cultivating a plantation lower clown the river. These lands 
afford excellent orange groves. South of St. Augustine, the lands are 
not so good as they are in the northern part. Near the Matanzas bar, 
however, there is considerable excellent land. Dunn's Lake and Lake 
George, both furnish some good hammocks and much excellent grazing 
land. 

Kingsley's Island contains two or three thousand acres of superior land. 
It is situate near the outlet of Lake George. The plantation of Esperan- 
zee, on Dunns Lake, is a beautiful situation. Considerable improvements; 
had been made on it by the proprietor, Mr. Joseph M. Sanches, before his 
death. It is at present purchased by a gentleman who will cultivate it. 
A superior sugar plantation might be made here. Schooners enter the lake 
in front of this plantation. On Pallaciers Creek, there is a large extent of 
good hammock land, some of which has been long under cultivation. 
Mala Compra the seat of General Hernandez, is situate at the head of the 
Matanzas Lagoon. It is an extensive cotton plantation. The large sugar 
plantations of Major Samuel Williams, and that of Col. Williams of Mary- 
land, are situate on the north end of Graham's Swamp. Live oak, oranges, 
and cotton, have hitherto been the principal articles exported from this 
county, but sugar will probably hereafter, supercede the cotton crop. The 
culture of oranges is rapidly increasing. Lemons, limes, guavas, and figs, 
are increasing, and some successful attempts at the cultivation of the vine, has 
lately been made. Within two years, this county has made much improve- 
ment in agriculture, in population, and in the value of property. Since the 
Seminole war commenced, all these plantations have been laid waste. 

Musquito County is one hundred and ninety miles long, and sixty broad. 
It is bounded on the north by St. John's and Allachua counties, west by 
Allachua and the Seminole reserve, south by Monroe county, and east by 



COUNTIES. 139 

the Atlantic Ocean. There is a considerable settlement on Tomoko and 
Smith's Creeks, on the Halifax River, and at New Smyrna ; the balance of 
this county is unsettled. 

In so great an extent of country, as Musquito, there must necessarily be 
a great diversity of soil and climate. The north line, which cuts Graham's 
Swamp in the centre, passes over some excellent land. The savanna that 
extends from Mala Compra, to Smith's Creek, a distance of thirteen miles, 
has a superior soil of rich clay and marl, covered with vegetable mould. 
But it is too wet to cultivate without draining. A company is formed to 
cut a canal through this savanna, from Mala Compra, at the head ofMatan- 
zas Lagoon, to Mr Bulow's plantation, on Smith's Creek, a water of Hali- 
fax River. From this savanna, to Graham Swamp, the pine land is of a 
good quality, and there is some hammock intermixed. Graham's Swamp 
is a narrow strip of land, that runs parallel with the coast, commencing at 
the head of the Matanzas Lagoon, and extending to the Tomoko River. 
It is scarcely over two miles in width, but the lands are of a superior quality. 

The plantation of the late Mr. Bulow, is one of the finest in Florida. 
About eight hundred acres were under cultivation before the war. Messrs 
Lawton, Mr. Dummet, Mr. Andrews, and Mrs. Anderson, have all exten- 
sive and valuable plantations. All these were in full operation before the 
Seminole war. The land cultivated by Col. Dummet, is salt marsh drain- 
ed. His fields have produced excellent crops, six years in succession from rat- 
tones. He made about fifty hogsheads of sugar a year, with a very small 
force. On all the water courses in this quarter of the country, there are ex- 
tensive marshes, equally valuble, as the expense of draining is less, than 
that of clearing the heavy timber from our swamp lands. 

On the west side of Halifax River, Messrs Armstrong and Simmons, 
Harriet and Williams, had opened extensive sugar plantations ; and at New 
Smyrna Messrs Crugher and Depuyster and Mr. Hunter were also commenc- 
ing very extensive sugar establishments. The former had their manufactory 
erected and had commenced making up their last years crop, when the war 
broke out. This part of the county affords extensive tracts of swamp and 
hammock lands, of the first quality. Turnbulls swamp, which extends from 
Spruce Creek, to about five miles south of New Smyrna, wasdrained by Doct. 
Turnbuil, in 1768. Two large canals were cut from the Hillsborough River, 
three miles back into the swamp, and one cut nearly the same distance, 
into Spruce Creek. These are connected, by ditches, that drain the swamp 
in every direction. It is thought that one hundred thousand dollars would 
scarcely procure the labor, that has been expended here. It has fully pre- 
pared the lands for cultivation, except taking off a second growth of tim- 
ber, which has sprung up, since these improvements were made. What 



140 COUNTIES. 

is of still more consequence, it has rendered the country healthy. McDou 
gals swamp commences, where Turnbulls ends, there is only a narrow 
grass savanna, that separates them. This swamp embraces the heads of 
Indian river ; and extends in length, on the west side, at least thirty miles ; 
on the east side, it terminates in a hammock, west of Ross place, about 14 
miles from itsc ommencement. It is, in many places, more than two miles 
wide. Some places, in the centre of the swamp, are overflowed in wet 
weather, but the borders are, at all seasons, fit for cultivation. The country 
west^of Graham, Turnbull and McDougal swamps, is, for about twenty 
miles, a piny glade, diversified with cypress swamps, grass savannas and 
ponds. There is no line marked, between this county and the Indian reser- 
ervation. The St. Johns River runs through the heart of this county, until 
it terminates in broad grass savannas, deeply covered with water. The 
lands on this river, towards its head, are usually low, rich hammocks. In 
the forks between this river and the Ocklawaha, the sand hills and ridges 
rise to a consideradle height, often chequered with ponds and bay calls. 

From the head of Indian River to Jupiter Inlet, a distance of more than 
a hundred miles, the country is greatly diversified. The sea shore below 
Cape Canaverel is cut up into islands which are not usually more than a mile 
in width, the eastern slope being washed by the sea ; the sand hills are 
raised very high, in the centre ; behind them range the shrub oaks and pal- 
mettoes, while the eastern shores of Indian River are usually covered with 
a rich forest of hammock trees and vines. In several deep bends of this 
coast, very good plantations might be cultivated. These islands are cover- 
ed by a grant of the Spanish Government to Eusebio Gomez of twelve 
thousand acres. Merritts Island claimed by Gen. Clinch, lies within Indian 
River. The western shore of Indian River, is skirted with cabbage ham- 
mocks on a rich but rocky surface, which usually extends some distance 
up the tributary streams. One of these is the N. W. Branch, which rises 
in the vicinity of the St. Johns River, between which and this stream there 
exists a very narrow pine ridge. On both sides of this stream there is ex- 
cellent land for some distance into the country. Delespines large grant of 
forty-three thousand acres is situated on the west side of Indian River, and 
nearly west of Cape Canaverel. Between Hillsborough Lagoon and In- 
dian River, there is a narrow portage of nineteen hundred and eighty feet. 
The land which it crosses, is dry savanna or prairie, quite rocky, but has a 
tolerable soil. Boats appear to have been hauled across this portage time 
out of mind. The land cannot be more than four feet above the water. 
Very little tide is perceivable on either side. 

Elbow Creek enters Indian River opposite the south end of Merritts Is- 
land. It opens into a fine large cove with hammocks on each side, upon a 



COUNTIES. 141 

low rocky shore. This is however a short stream, rising in a swamp five or 
six miles back. The pine lands soon succeed the hammocks, and cypress 
covers the swamp. 

Crane Creek enters two miles below Elbow. It has a very narrow en- 
trance, but widens for half a mile, into a broad lagoon ; a marsh succeeds in 
which the creek again becomes narrow. Above this, pine lands succeed, 
with high banks and a clay soil, and appears to be good land. This is a 
beautiful stream and abundantly stocked with fresh water trout. 

Turkey Creek enters two miles farther south. It is a short stream and 
the land on its banks appears to be light and sandy. South of this creek the 
bluffs of yellow sand rise very high, on the west bank of Indian River, 
and here the coquina rocks cease to appear, on this shore of (he river. The 
bluffs are marked on the old charts, Les Tortolas. Shells succeed the rocks 
on this shore of the river, and the quality of the land is not so good. 

St. Sebastians Creek is a considerable river ; it enters eighteen miles 
south of Merritts Island. A high bluff of very yellow sand, rises on the 
south point of the entrance. The banks of this creek are generally high, 
and usually covered with pine timber. This river appears to rise about 
thirty miles south west, nearly opposite to the narrows, in ponds and exten- 
sive savannas. For several miles, from its mouth, it traverses a high and 
rolling country, of pine lands of a tolerable quality. On both sides of this 
creek, is located Flemmings Grant, of twenty thousand acres. 

St. Lucia River enters twenty-six miles south of St. Sebastians. From 
the western shore, in this space, the land rises into sand hills and again re- 
cedes into low pine lands, which extend back, a few miles ; the savannas 
then become very frequent. A fine cabbage hammock rises about two 
miles north of the St. Lucia and extends up that river, about eight miles ; it 
then terminates in good pine land. On the north shore, the coquina forma- 
tion again appears, in high rocky bluffs. The south shore near the mouth, 
has a deep hammock of hard timber, but it does not extend so far up, as on 
the north shore. The pine lands that succeed, are mixed with oak and 
hickory shrubs. The river divides into three large branches, about nine 
miles from its mouth. In these forks the country is covered with pine, but 
the soil is good ; near the south branch, there are large islets of hammock 
land, surrounded by pine. South of St. Lucia, an extensive tract of man- 
groves extend from the coast, three or four miles back, and seven or eight 
miles south, to Hobe Sound. This tract is cut up by numerous deep, but 
narrow channels, which traverse it in every direction. On the west, a rich 
low pine country succeeds, covered with high grass, forming an excellent 
grazing country, for several miles ; when wet savannas succeed, which 
terminate in cedar swamps. 



142 COUNTIES. 

On the west of Hobe Sound, the land rises into hills and ridges of light 
sand, scattered over with shrub pines and vacciniums. This tract is marked 
on the old charts, the Bleach Yard. On Gomez Island, north of Jupiter 
Inlet, is the old plantation of Padre Torry, now grown up with bushes, but 
embracing several fruit trees, that contend with the cabbage-palms for pos- 
session. 

No person has penetrated the country, many miles west of Indian River. 
West of Delespines tract, an extensive grass savanna, is bounded by a 
large water course, which by the surveyor was supposed to be the St. 
John's. But it is more likely to be one of those lakes, that in many places 
intersect the interior of the country, to a great extent. Occasionally cab- 
bage hammocks of considerable extent, rise in the midst of these glades. 
Near the heads of St. Lucia, a broad savanna was coasted many miles 
north, and at length was crossed, where it was from four to five miles wide, 
and the water was from three to four feet deep, but wholly covered with 
grass. Still farther west, numerous branches traversed the pine lands, and 
run in the direction of the St. John's. 

Greenville Creek, Middle Creek, Jupiter Creek, and Fresh Water Creek, 
all enter the south end of Hobe Sound, near Jupiter Inlet. The country 
through which these streams pass, is unexplored. Jupiter Creek is said to 
head in a large lake, about four miles west of the Rio Seco, forty-five miles 
south of Jupiter inlet. Between this creek and the coast, is Fresh Water 
Lake, which extends near forty miles, parallel with the coast, and only two 
or three miles distant. Some very rich marsh lands separate Fresh Water 
Lake from the Lagoon of Rattones and Hillsborough Inlet. The northern 
branch of this inlet, which receives the waters of the Rattones Lagoon, is 
named Potomac, and this stream is the southern boundary of Musquito 
County. 

Monroe County is bounded on the north by Allachua and Musquito Coun- 
ties, east by the Atlantic, south by the Florida Channel, and west by the 
Gulf of Mexico. It embraces all the south end of the Peninsula, from 
Charlotte Bay to Hillsborough Inlet, a distance of one hundred and 
fifty miles ; together with the Florida Keys. These have been described 
under the head of islands. The coast has also been generally described, 
and the interior is very little known. A very few additional facts we shall 
here state. 

The Sandwich Gulf, or Bay Biscayne, extends from Key Biscayne, in a 
N. E. direction, about eighteen miles, and receives the Miami and Rattones 
Rivers from the glades. New River, that enters the Atlantic, nine miles 
south of Hillsborough Inlet, also communicates with the glades, and boats 
can ascend any one of these rivers into the glades, and from thence descend 



COUNTIES. 143 

the others into the Sandwich Gulf, and from thence into the Atlantic. On 
the south side of Hillsborough, there is a large prairie, which may contain 
one thousand acres. It appears like an old Indian field, but the land is 
rather poor. It is surrounded with pine lands, broken by lagoons, which 
extend with some interruptions, to New River. 

On the west side of New River, there is a considerable tract of rich ham- 
mock land, part of which is cultivated by a few families that reside on the 
coast. At the east side of the river, a sand beach extends nearly six miles 
S. W. from this settlement, passing the mouth of the river over a sand bar 
of six feet water. 

On the west side of Sandwich Gulf, there is for two or three miles, above 
and below the Miami River, a tract of rocky land, but which has a rich 
soil. The shore is high and precipitous, with cocoanut trees jutting from 
the fissures of the rocks. A considerable settlement has been established 
here for 22 years past, but they have made very little improvement. On 
the north side of the Miami, is located the large grant of Aronbede, of ninety 
thousand acres of land. It has not been surveyed, but embraces the head 
of the Gulf, and the River Rattones, with the inclined plane that descends 
from the glades to the sea. 

Below Cape Florida, the coast declines again into sandy pine lands, for 
several miles, until Fresh Water Creek enters the Gulf. Here again is a 
small quantity of good hammock land, called Cocoanut Point. From this to 
Cape Sable, the prairie approaches near the coast, extending into the country, 
usually about fifteen miles. It is interspersed with pleasant hammocks of 
good land. This prairie usually terminates in cypress swamps, and those 
in the interminable glades. 

Fayette County was organized in February, 1832. It is bounded north 
by the Alabama line, west by Jackson County, south by Washington 
County, and east by the Chattahooche, and Appalachicola Rivers. It is 
about 36 miles long, and 24 miles wide. The lands on the rivers are gene- 
rally very fertile. The centre of the county is generally pine barren, 
and water is scarce. The Big Spring of Chipola, rises in the S. W. part 
of the county. It is particularly described, under the head of curiosities. 
The greatest population is on the borders of the Chattahooche, but the 
lands on Spring Creek and Chipola, are rapidly selling. 

Franklin County was established at the same time as Fayette. It is in 
shape, nearly a triangle, each of whose sides are about 48 miles. It was 
cut out of Washington and Gadsden Counties, embracing the Appalachi- 
cola River, below the Chipola inundation, and embracing also the Islands of 
St. George and St. Vincent. The lands of this county are very low and 
wet. Ponds, swamps, and marshes are liberally distributed over the face 



144 ROADS. 

of it. The lands bordering the river, are very rich, but have not been con- 
sidered healthy. Collinton, laid out on the site of Fort Gadsden, 25 miles 
above the bay, is not increasing. But the Appalachicola Town, at the 
mouth of the river, is rising to a place of commerce. Few places in Flori- 
day, export more produce. 

ROADS. 

When Florida was ceded to the United States, there was but one road 
of any consequence in the Territory. That called the King's Road ex- 
tended from St. Augustine to the River St. Marys. It had been well con- 
structed by the English, and at first extended to New Smyrna, but the 
lower part was wholly grown up, and the balance much out of repair. 
Trails leading from Pensacola to Mobile, and up the Escambia, were 
scarcely passable for carts. In 1824, twenty-five thousand dollars were 
appropriated for a public road, to be opened from Pensacola to St. Augus- 
tine. Unfortunately for the Territory, it was located through a wilderness 
part of the country, a great proportion of which has never been inhabited, 
and the road, in those parts, has never been used. Another appropriation 
was made, for a road from Jacksonville to Tampa Bay ; this was well con- 
structed, and has proved a useful route. In 1828 the King's Road was 
reopened as far as Tomoko, forty miles south of St. Augustine, and to 
about ten miles north of Jacksonville. It has lately been opened to New 
Smyrna. 

Attempts were made to open roads as far as Charlotte Harbor, on the 
west, and Cape Florida on the east side of the Peninsula ; but the face of 
the country was found to be covered with extensive swamps, and it was 
thought that the expense of constructing the roads could not be justified 
by any advantages likely to accrue. 

A great variety of public roads have within the last three years, been 
constructed by the several counties of the Territory ; so that in general, 
communications from one part to another are much more convenient than 
formerly. Much, however, still remains to be done, to facilitate travelling, 
through the Territory. In 1830 congress granted an appropriation of two 
thousand dollars, for repairing the road between St. Augustine and Tala- 
hasse : also, two thousand for opening a road between Marianna and the 
mouth of the Appalachicola River : also, a large sum for constructing a 
road between Pensacola and Blakely* In 1835, seven thousand dollars 
were appropriated further to repair the road from St. Augustine to Pensa- 
cola. Part of this sum was expended in repairing the road from Bayard, 
on the St. Johns, to Newnansville, when the Indian hostilities put a stop 
to the work. 



145 



CANALS. 

A Canal across the Peninsula of Florida has been located, by the En- 
gineers of the United States, under an Act of Congress ; — a report of 
which was made in the spring of 1829. The first project of this canal 
submitted to Congress, proposed a ship canal, but on examination, the table 
land of the Peninsula was found to be much higher than was anticipated, 
in consequence of which, a steamboat canal was recommended by the En- 
gineers. A speedy execution of the work has been strongly recommended 
to Congress, as highly important to the commercial interests of the eastern 
and western parts of the Union. The location commences at the south 
branch of Black Creek, twelve miles westward of St. Johns River, in 
Duval County, and proceeds by Kingsley's Pond, down Alligator Creek 
to Sampson's Ponds; thence to the Santaffe River and along its channel 
to the natural bridge, thence westward to the Suwanne River, and from 
this river ultimately across the country to St. Marks, and thence to the 
Gulf of Mexico. When completed, much of the produce of the western 
country is expected to be conveyed across the Peninsula to the port of 
Fernandina, at the mouth of St. Marys River. To facilitate which, the 
inland communication between the Rivers St. Johns and St. Marys is to 
be considerably improved by deepening and straightening the channel, — an 
appropriation of fifteen thousand dollars having been made and expended 
on this route to very little purpose. A dredging machine is still slowly at 
work at the Sisters, a little north of the St. Johns. 

A company has been incorporated to connect the waters of Oclockony 
River with Lake Jackson ; should this be accomplished, it will greatly add 
to the commercial importance of Tallahasse. 

Another company has been incorporated to connect the eastern arm of 
St. Andrews Bay with the Chipola, and thence, with the Appalachicola 
River. When the titles to the country about St. Andrews are set at rest, 
this project will afford one of the most promising speculations in the Terri- 
tory. The countries watered by the Chattahooche are extensive, and rich 
in commercial products. The Bay of St. Andrews is one of the pleasant- 
'est, as well as the healthiest situations in Florida. It affords an entrance 
and safe anchorage for any number of vessels drawing eighteen feet water. 
These water-courses are separated by a level tract of land only eight miles 
wide. 

The Legislative Council of the Territory in 1832 incorporated a company 
to open a canal from the head of Matanzas Lagoon, to Smith's Creek, a 
tributary of Halifax River. With this act, a memorial from the company 
was presented to Congress, asking for a grant of land for the location, and 

19 



146 RAIL ROADS, CURIOSITIES. 

to assist in carrying- into effect the purpose of the company ; five sections 
were appropriated for that purpose. The company propose to commence 
this canal at the plantation of Mala Compra, the seat of General Hernandez, 
and carry it through a rich wet savanna, parallel with the coast, to Smith's 
Creek, about 4 miles above Mr. Bulow's plantation. The distance may 
be 11 or 12 miles at most. 

A similar act was passed, incorporating a company to construct a cana 
from Six Mile Creek, below Picolata, on the St. John's River, to St 
Augustine. The distance from the navigable waters of Six Mile to the St 
Sebastian's, will not exceed twelve miles. An excellent steamboat now 
plies between Savannah in Georgia, and Six Mile, Creek, through the in 
land passages, touching at Darien and St. Mary's, in Georgia, and at Jack 
sonville, on the St. John's. 

A survey has lately been completed between Mobile Bay and Pensacola, 
and a canal to connect those waters is located and levelled. 

Indeed, the whole of our extensive sea coast is lined by inland water 
courses, that might, at the expense of a few miles cutting, be rendered 
navigable for steamboats, and the whole danger from our southern reefs, 
keys and currents, be obviated. 

RAIL ROADS. 

A company has been incorporated for the purpose of constructing a rail 
road from Tallahasse to St. Mark's ; a distance of about 20 miles; which 
has been completed. 

Many of our projected canals will probably be superseded by rail roads. 
Where the elevation requires much lockage, rail roads will be far preferable, 
and less expensive. Stone for locks is scarce, the eoil is light, and 
scarcely solid enough to support heavy dams, and they are very easily 
undermined by the water. Near the coast, where thorough cuts can be 
made, canals may answer, but in the rolling country, rail roads are both 
cheaper and more expeditious, besides, they are far more permanent. 

CURIOSITIES. 

Florida is, itself, a natural curiosity. It is a curiously shaped and curious- 
ly formed terminal appendage to the great United States. Not absolutely 
a sand bank, as alledged by Mr. Seagrove, but a calcareous fragment of 
the Appalachian mountain, clothed with some sterile sand banks, some 
rich variegated clay banks, and some beautiful coralines. It is traversed, 
also, by many beautiful streams and lakes, but some of them have a 
curious fancy for traversing a considerable part of their course under 
ground. It is common to observe pleasant streams of sweet limpid water 
plunge headlong into some wild cavern and disappear altogether. It is 



CURIOSITIES. 147 

equally common to see navigable streams jet forth from the earth with all 
their inhabitants of fish, turtles, and alligators. Most of our readers, it is 
presumed, have observed Bart ram's description of the springs near Lake 
George, the Allachua, and Suwanne ; as well as the article of Mr. Shep- 
herd on the same subject, in the Journal of Science, for October, 1823, 
which it is not my intention to repeat, but will add a few other specimens 
not less extraordinary, merely remarking en passant, that Mr. Shepherd has 
mistaken Tallahassache, an old Indian town on the Little Suwanne, for 
Tallahasse, the seat of government of this Territory, one hundred miles 
south west from the Alligator Hole. 

The Wakully River rises about ten miles N. W. of St. Mark's, from 
one of the finest springs in Florida, or perhaps in the world. It is of an 
oval form, the largest diameter of which, is about six rods. It is of an 
unknown depth and perfectly transparent. In looking into it, the color re- 
sembles a clear blue sky, except near the border, where it has a slight tinge 
of green from the reflection of the surrounding verdure, which hangs over 
it in drooping branches and waving festoons. The eastern side presents a 
rugged rocky precipice, all else is an abyss of boundless depth. Squadrons 
of fishes are seen careering round "their own world" in perfect security. 
The water is moderately cold, and highly impregnated with lime. The 
beauty of the fountain, the luxuriance of the foliage around it, and the calm 
retirement of the whole scene, renders this one of the most charming spots 
that West Florida affords. 

The Big Spring of Chipola, offers a very different scene. Here also, a 
river bursts from the earth, with giant force, from huge masses of rugged 
rocks, with furious rapidity, as though impatient of restraint. The orifice 
opens to the south west, from a high swelling bank, scattered over with 
large oak trees. East and west, the orifice may be thirty feet by eight 
feet wide. A large rock divides the mouth almost into two parts, at a 
considerable depth below the surface. The water acts as a prism : 
all objects seen through it on a sun-shiny day, reflect all the colors of 
the rainbow. This spring at once forms a river, six rods wide, and eight 
feet deep, which joins the Chipola River, at about ten miles distance. 

The Wakully rises gently from a retired dell, in a low flat country, sur- 
rounded by deep embowering groves, from which hang numerous vines, in 
rich festoons, waving gracefully in every breeze. The Chipola bursts from 
the side of a hill, in a rolling country sparsely covered with oaks. There, 
all is calm unrufled quiet ; here, all is Ufa, activity, animation. 

The St. Mark's River rises in a small pond at Rockhaven, about fourteen 
miles from St. Mark's, where it forms a junction with the Wakully, and 
from thence, both rivers lose their name in that of Appalache. 

Besides these, the springs already described, there is one on the Chactaw- 



148 CURIOSITIES, — LIME SINKS. 

hatchee, another on the west side of the Chipola, five or six on the Su- 
wanne, and five times as many on the St. John's River, some of them lar- 
ger and very beautiful. Some of these are highly medicinal, containing 
iron, sulphur, vitriol, and lime. One of these fine springs, quite warm, and 
highly impregnated with sulphur, iron, and other minerals, is situate six 
miles belowBayard, and on the west side of the St. John's. 

LIME SINKS. 

Nearly allied to these springs, are the sink holes, or lime sinks that are scat- 
tered all over the Territory, and mark the course of the subterranean 
rivers. They are formed by holes in the earth, above these subter- 
rene reservoirs, like the sand in an hour glass, the earth caves in and the 
hole is filled with water. They are often very deep, and from them I have 
often taken fine stiings of trout. Many large ponds are formed on the 
same principle. Two instances have occurred within our own knowledge, 
where persons have camped under the pines one night, and the next, earth, 
trees, and all have disappeared, and an unfathomable sink has supplied the 
place. The water in the sinks as well as in the large springs, are all 
strongly impregnated with lime, and many of the springs deposite a bluish 
white coagulum on the bottom and sides. 

Several considerable rivers sink under ground and rise again. The San- 
tafee sinks about a mile above the Tallahasse road, in Allachua County, 
and it rises again about two miles below. During the rainy season, the 
orifice is not able to receive all the river, and then a broad torrent passes 
across the road, often so deep, as to swim a horse. Such also, are the 
Ocilla, the Chipola, Econfina, and others 

Several considerable lakes also, sink through the summer season in dry 
weather, the bottoms become rich meadows of grass, and feed vast herds of 
cattle, but during the heav} r rains of winter, the sinks cannot receive the 
water, which soon fills the vallies and swarms with myriads of fish. The 
river Styx drains the waters from Pithlachucco Lake, into the Allachua 
savanna, where it is joined by several other streams, which all fall into a 
sink of a semicircular form, about one hundred and twenty yards across, 
which is almost surrounded by high rocky banks, from which the orifice 
may be discovered. It is a vast abyss, situate on the north side of the sav- 
anna. At the begining of summer, when the waters are withdrawing, it is 
crowded with alligators and fish. The grass quickly sprouts up from the 
savanna to such a height, as almost to conceal the heads of cattle that 
graze over its surface. During the winter the same valley presents a lake 
fifteen miles long, and six wide. The Alligator Lake in Columbia County, 
presents the same phenomena ; it is about three miles long, by two wide. 



CAVES. 149 

This last lake is probably the alligator hole, spoken of by Bartram and 
Shepherd, as the place where the great river bursts from the earth. 

An account of an extraordinary fountain, bursting from the Atlantic 
coast, about nine miles south of St.. Augustine, and from one to two 
miles from the east shore of Anastasia Island, has been published on the 
authority of Captain Sisson. The subject had been mentioned to me seve- 
ral times by persons who alledged that they had not only sailed across it, 
but had drawn from the fountain buckets of tolerable drinking water. 
Fearing that there might have been some mistake in the matter, I have 
heretofore hesitated to introduce it. As the subject has now been published 
from an authentic source, I think myself justified in stating the matter as 
it has been represented to me. On approaching the place, says my in- 
formant, the sea appeared to be ruffled with short waves, as though rocks 
lay beneath the surface, and the color assumed a yellowish cast, which led 
him to fear that they were approaching a shoal : as the wind was light, he 
ordered the lead to be cast, and found from seven to eight fathoms quite 
across the rippling space, that in some places boiled and whirled, at inter- 
vals, in a very singular manner. The whole space agitated was, perhaps, 
six rods across, and the water was considerably deeper here than on the 
adjacent coast. The captain, who left the above account, is now dead. 

CAVES. 

Nearly allied to the sinks, are the subterranean Caves. 

The Arch Cave is situate in Jackson County, about three miles west of 
the Chipola River. An aperture opens to the east, beneath a vast lime- 
stone rock, about five feet high, and thirty feet wide. The passage de- 
scends gradually for about four rods ; the cavern then opens to the extent 
of a hundred feet wide, and fifty feet high. A deep channel of cold trans- 
parent water skirts the south side for some rods, it then breaks off into wells 
and finally disappears altogether. The course of the cave now bends to the 
north-west, grows narrow, and resembles an arch of the gothic order. Af- 
ter proceeding about sixty yards, the cave is crossed by another stream, 
twenty feet wide, and five feet deep, in which are seen a great number of 
white cray-fish. The passage now turns north east, and opens into a hole 
one hundred feet in length, with a very uneven floor of red clay, in which 
are piles of debris from the decomposed rock above. A cluster of stalec- 
tite columns support the centre of this room, while thousands of stalectites 
of various lengths and sizes, hang from the roof dripping upon the white 
bases below, to assist them in their growth, that they may be joined in 
solid columns. Many large holes in the rock above, are filled with myriads 
of bats. These on the approach of lights, flit off to other dark recesses 



150 EVERGLADES. 

with a roaring sound like a heavy wind or a torrent of water. The passage 
now becomes crooked and intricate for a few rods, it then leads into another 
lofty apartment, from which there are many avenues, but these were bound- 
ed by water courses at the time we visited the cave in 1825. Since that 
time, we are informed that it has been examined to a much greater dis- 
tance. It is evident that the debris of the rock, is in rainy seasons carried 
off by the currents of water that pass through these caves, and thus they 
become more and more enlarged, and when the rock is fritted quite through, 
the earth losing its support, falls into the cave, and forms a sink hole. 

This cavern has been penetrated near six hundred yards. The chrystal- 
izations on the sides, as well as on the stalectites, present the appearance 
of a brilliant gray ice ; they often project in curling and folding masses, re- 
presenting draperies, mouldings and bas reliefs of singular appearance ; the 
projections are nearly white, but they present the same sparkling chrys- 
taline appearance. The regular stalectites are hollow, the outsides are 
soft and chalky from recent deposite, the inside almost as hard as flint, and 
often enclose irregular chrystals of spar. 

In the neighborhood of this cave, Col. Stone attempted in three several 
places to dig wells, but in every instance the workmen came to hollow 
spaces in the earth, and at length became frightened at the danger of fall- 
ing into some fathomless abyss, and the project was abandoned. 

The Ladies Cave is about one mile south east from the arch cave ; it 
opens to the north west ; the entrance is wide and easier of access, than the 
former ; it is also more spacious within. About fifty paces from the en- 
trance it is divided into two passages, the left, about fifteen yards in extent, 
terminates in a deep stream, which passes to the north, under a bold arch 
of sparry congelations, which has not, and cannot, without a boat be ex- 
plored ; the banks are bold, rocky and difficult of access. The right hand 
passage is also pushed forward among rugged masses of rock, bold project- 
ing columns, curious excavations, and fanciful galleries, which it would be 
difficult to describe. The congelations are fine and infinitely various. The 
passage, terminates in a narrow chasm, which appears to have been a water 
course ; through which, at about three rods distance, another room appears, 
which however has been but imperfectly explored. To the right of this 
last branch of the cave, the clefts have been traced about one hundred feet ; 
many small passages lead off in different directions and may terminate in 
other rooms. 

EVERCLADES. 

That part of the peninsula of Florida that lies south of the 28th degree 



HISTORY. 151 

of north lalitude, declines towards the centre in form of a dish, the border of 
which is raised towards the coast. Near Cape Florida, this border is from 
twelve to twenty miles from the sea beach. It is formed of the same cal- 
careous rock which skirts the Gulf of Mexico as far west as the Appalache 
River. This vast basin is filled with marshes, wet savannas, intersected 
by extensive lakes and lagoons, forming a labyrinth which taken together, 
is called the Everglades. It is very little known. It is drained on every 
side by rivers of different dimensions. The St. Johns drains it on the north, 
The St. Lucia, Greenville, Jupiter, New River, Rattones and Miami on the 
east, and Snake, Swallow, Delaware, Caloosahatche, and Macaco on the 
west. Behind Cape Florida, the glades approach within twelve miles of 
the coast. The inlets may here be ascended in one day, notwithstanding 
the swiftness of their currents. 

/"On reaching the level of the glades, a vast grass meadow is expanded, 
apparently as boundless as the ocean ; you then pass on the winding la- 
goons from six to twelve miles westwardly and the grass, by degrees, dis- 
appear and you are left in an unexplored grassy lake to which you can dis- 
cover no bounds. It probably extends near to the eastern shore of the Gulf. 
The grassy borders of this lake is usually covered with water during the 
winter season, not so deep however, as to hide the grass which is very thick 
and tall. During the summer, the ground is often dry and hard for ten 
miles from the timbered land. This tract is at all times stocked with wild 
game, and would afford a superior range for cattle. On viewing for the 
first time, this singular region, I was led into many reflections on its origin, 
capabilities and future destination. Has it recently risen from the ocean ? 
Is the land still rising on the border and encroaching on the lake, from the 
masses of grass and other plants so abundantly produced from this very pro- 
ductive limestone rock ? 

Could it be drained by deepening the natural outlets ? Would it not open 
to cultivation immense tracts of rich vegetable soil ? Could the water 
power, obtained by draining, be improved to any useful purposes ? Would 
such draining render the country unhealthy? Can the Spanish tradition be 
true, that pearl fisheries were formerly established in these lakes ? 

Many queries like these passed through our minds. They can only be 
solved by a thorough * xamination of the whole country. Could the 
waters be lowered ten feet, it would probably drain six hundred thousand 
acres ; should this prove to be a rich soil, as would seem probable, what a 
field would it open for tropical productions ! What facilities for commerce ! 
La Vego relates that pearls were abundant among the natives of Florida at 
the time of the invasion of De Soto. An old manuscript in my possession 
asserts that a governor of Florida appointed a commission, for the purpose 
of seeking pearls in these lakes, and that they were successful. 



152 HISTORY. 

HISTORY. 

1497. Sebastian Cabot, sailing under the flag of England, first discover- 
ed the coast of Florida and sailed along its easternshore, but did 
not land to examine the interior of the country. 
1512. Twenty-two years afterwards, Ponce de Leon, a Spanish adven- 
turer of Hispaniola, was led, by the fictions of a Carib girl, to ex- 
plore the country in search of a fountain, which she stated would renovate 
old age and restore departed youth. But old age and infirmities grew upon 
him during his search, for which he was never so fortunate as to discover 
a remedy. He landed at a place called Punta Tanchi, now Cape Sable. 
It is the southernmost point of Florida. It was on Easter Day, and the 
country being covered with a verdant foliage, induced him to bestow upon 
it the name of Florida. In attempting to penetrate the interior of the 
country, which is low and marshy, he lost many of his people, and the rest 
re-embarked, greatly distressed for want of food, which they could not 

obtain till they arrived at the islands. 
1516. A second voyage made by de Leon, to search for gold, was not 
more successful, for being attacked by the natives in their swamps, 
they lost several brave men, and the remainder were obliged to retreat on 

board of their vessels. 
1518. Two years after, Luke Valasquez sailed from Cuba and landed 
at St. Helena, S. C. The natives received him in a friendly man- 
ner, and supplied his crew with provisions. He returned their kindness 
with apparent civility, and invited a great number to go on board his vessel, 
which they had no sooner done, than they were seized and bound in chains. 
Some few jumped overboard and swam to the shore, where immense 
numbers being gathered, they were fired on by Velasquez, and many of the 
astonished natives were wantonly killed and wounded. Velasquez having 
arrived at Cuba, disposed of his cargo for the purpose of working the 
Mexican mines. Numbers of them had starved themselves to death ; 
others died of grief. The white monster was so well satisfied with 
1520. his success, that he tried the event of another voyage, and it were 
greatly to be wished that all kidnappers might meet the same 
punishment. The natives were not a second time deceived, but fell upon 
them as soon as they had decoyed them from the coast, and killed two 
hundred. The rest fled to their vessels and immediately set sail, but 
encountering a terrible storm they were shipwrecked and all perished 
except Velasquez himself; he was picked up, and returned to pass the 
remainder of his life in misery and remorse. Spanish historians assert that 

he incurred the King's displeasure, and was recalled. 
1524. Florida had by this time acquired considerable importance in the 
eyes of the Spaniards. They could not conceive that any people 



HISTORY. 153 

should fight with so much determination, unless they had mines of gold to 
defend. Francis de Guerray obtained a grant of the country from the 
King of Spain, but dying soon after, he was succeeded by de Allyon, who 
raised forces and invaded the country. Instead of gold mines, he found 
only swamps filled with armed savages ready to attack them at every 
natural defile. He soon fled from the coast with the loss of half his 

men. 
1528. Four years after Pamphillo de Narvaes, succeeded to the honor of 

sacrificing himself, and a small army of adventurers to the prevail- 
ing thirst for gold. He set sail with 400 foot, and forty horse, from St. 
Jago de Cuba, and arrived on the coast of Florida on the 12th day of April, 
and took formal possession of the country, for the King of Spain. It is un- 
certain at this period, at what place Narvaes disembarked his troops, but 
from the length of time he spent in traversing the country to Appalache, he 
must have landed as far south as Charlotte Ba} r . He landed in a deep bay, 
in sight of Indian wigwams, but the natives had deserted them. He proceed- 
ed inland with his force?, and struck another still larger bay, and soon dis- 
covered savages, who offered him corn. Among them he discovered some 
wooden cases containing dead Indians, covered with skins, ornamented with 
paintings, together with pieces of cloth, and sprigs of gold. On being in- 
formed that the gold was brought from Appalache, Narvaes immediately 
ordered his troops to march thither by land. His treasurer, Cobeca de 
Vaca, endeavored in vain to dissuade him. He commenced his march on 
the first of May, with 300 foot and his 40 horses, having distributed to each, 
two pounds of biscuit, and half a pound of pork. Fifteen days they tra- 
versed a desolate country, void of inhabitants and food. They at length 
reached a large river, which they crossed, partly by swimming, and partly 
on rafts ; the opposite shore was inhabited by Indians, who furnished them 
with corn. Having rested and explored the coast, they found it shoal and 
without ports. They then proceeded 15 days without any signs of an in- 
habitant, till the 17lh June, when they fell in with a tribe of savages 
whose sachem was clothed in a deer's hide, elegantly painted. The Indi- 
ans took them to their town, and supplied them with corn and venison ; 
informed them that they were enemies of the Appalacheans, and pointed 
out to them the course to pursue. After exchanging presents, the 
Spaniards departed, and travelled six days through swamps and marshes, 
almost impassable. On the 25th they reached Appalache, an inland town, 
and at once fell upon the natives, without warning or parley, and slaugh- 
tered them without mercy. The town consisted of forty comfortable wig- 
wams, v/ell stocked with corn, skins and garments made of bark cloth. 

20 



154 HISTORY. 

But they found no gold. They continued 25 days at this village, dining 
which time, they were twice assaulted by the natives. 

Narvaez divided his troops into three companies and directed them to 
scour the country, but their labor was vain ; they discovered neither gold 
nor food. They kept the Indian Chief in chains, and travelled south for 
nine days, when they reached another savage town. During this route 
they were constantly harrassed by the savages, who continually lurked 
about their camp, and killed many of their horses during the night. On 
approaching the town of Auta they were attacked by the natives, and a 
bloody battle ensued, in which many Spaniards, but more Indians, were 
slain. The wild troops at length were broken and the town sacked and 
plundered. A great quantity of com, peas, gourds and fruits were found 
which furnished a seasonable supply to the starving Spaniards. 

De Vaca was then despatched with an exploring party to examine the 
coast. In three days he returned with information that the sea was distant, 
and that the deep bays were lined with dismal swamps and marshes. 
Their horses were nearly all destroyed, they could proceed no further by 
land, and they had no boats to convey them to sea. 

In this distressed situation they moved slowly down the river, and at its 
mouth killed the few remaining horses, made boats of their hides, and 
twisted ropes from the hair of the manes and tails, cut up their shirts for 
sails, and by the 20th of September they set sail in five boats, directing 
their course towards Mexico. During this extreme exertion, the natives 
retaliated upon them the cruelties they had before inflicted at Appalache. 
Ten of the Spaniards were picked off while they laid at Auta. 

They set sail on the 22d of September, but made little progress. They 
wandered seven days in unknown bays. At length they found their way 
into the open sea, and stretched northward along the shore, but they suffer- 
ed excessively for want of water. Fish they caught in considerable 
quantities, but no fresh water could be found near the beach, and they he- 
sitated to penetrate into the country, from fear of the savages. At length, 
with great difficulty and danger they weathered the southern point of a 
long cape, (South Cape,) and again approached the continent. Here the 
natives appearing friendly, they ventured on shore, and were supplied with 
fresh water and fish. This treatment lulled them into security, and they 
went to rest after so many sufferings : but in the dead of night the Indians 
made a sudden and fierce attack upon them, and rescued the imprisoned 
chief. The Spaniards broke in confusion and fled to their boats, which 
they were happy to regain, short as they were of provisions and water. 
Narvaez here received a severe wound. 

They sailed three days, and then were again obliged to put in shore for 
water. Here they took the precaution to exchange hostages with the na- 



HISTORY. 155 

lives, before they proceeded to the watering place ; but the savages soon 
retook their hostages, and kept the Spanish hostages prisoners. 

Narvaez was obliged to run out to sea and leave these men to the mercy 
of the enraged savages. The surf beat so violently on the coast that they 
were obliged to keep far from the shore, where they were soon separated by 
stress of weather, and but one of them was ever heard of afterwards. 
That commanded by Cabecca De Vaca was driven upon an island, where 
they found about one hundred Indians, who at first attacked the Spaniards, 
but being allured by some gaudy presents they became friendly, and supplied 
them with water and provisions. These, however, were soon exhausted and 
the Spaniards were again obliged to proceed on their voyage. Their suf- 
ferings were extreme, for a great length of ume, on a barren coast, lined with 
savages, and fifteen, only, of the eighty soldiers that embarked at Auta, 
under De Vaca, reached the province of Mexico. 

It was customary at this period for the Indians on the coast of Florida, to 
destroy all their prisoners. A singluar exception to this practice, soon after 
occurred. Among the few of Narvaez soldiers, who were so fortunate as 
to escape, there was a man named Ortez, active and enterprizing, who 
among others, got back to Cuba in a small boat. In detailing the events of 
their defeat to the wife of Narvaez, she was led to suspect that her husband 
might have been abandoned by his troops, and might still be living on the 
Florida Coast. She prevailed upon Ortez, by a great reward, to return 
and search for him, and fitted out a small pinnace to convey him back to the 
hostile coast. Ortez returned, but being watched by the natives, he was 
taken prisoner. 

While on the point of being sacrificed, the daughter of the Indian Chief 
interceded in his favor, and obtained him from her father, and he lived 
several years with her. But being honored with the defence of a burying 
ground, where some chief was lately deposited, he suffered a wolf to disinter 
and drag out the body, and although he pursued and killed the wolf, yet he 
was a second time sentenced to death, when his wife again privately re- 
leased him, and directed him to flee southward until he should reach the 
confines of the Tampa Bay ; where he should find Macaco, a powerful 
chief, a friend of hers, who would protect him. He fled accordingly, and 

found an asylum from his enemies until the conquest of De Soto. 
1539. It was eleven years, before a leader could be found to reassert the 
Spanish claim to Florida. Ferdinand De Soto, a brave Spanish 
cavalier who had greatly distinguished himself in the conquest of Peru, and 
thus rendered himself an object of suspicion to the ambitious conquerors of 
that important kingdom, was induced to relinquish the path of glory, at the 
price of a million and a half of dollars. 



156 HISTORY. 

Hearing the country of Florida described, and the destruction of his 
countrymen lamented, he seemed disposed to make an essay, to redeem the 
national honor. He therefore applied to the King for permission to fit out 
an expedition for that purpose. His petition was readily granted. He 
proceeded to purchase seven ships, and three cutters, which he armed and 
equiped for the expedition. He enlisted one thousand men, three hundred 
of whom were cavaliers, well mounted on excellent horses ; he sailed in the 
spring of the year, as far as Cuba, where he made some stay, and here he 
married the sister of the famous Bovadilla. He at length proceeded to 
Florida, and landed at Tampa Bay. The country bordering this bay was 
governed by an Indian chief, named Hiriga, who also gave the same name 
to the province, as was the custom among these people. 

De Soto forbid his followers to molest the natives, as they had shown 
no hostile disposition towards the Spaniards, and he was desirous of 
cultivating their friendship. But Porcello, one of his captains of horse, had 
observed the old chief Hiriga, to enter a deep swamp, very frequently, and 
he thought that he might distinguish himself, by seizing the old man and 
conveying him to his general. He therefore watched an opportunity to 
surround the swamp, with his squadron, and beat up the old man's quar- 
ters. Hiriga was not to be surprised, he poured a shower of arrows on the 
Spaniards, accompanied with hideous yells. The horses were frightened, 
and fell into confusion, and Porcello was obliged to retreat. He became a 
subject of sport to his companions, which mortified him to such a degree, 
that he begged a cutter of the General, to convey him out of the camp ; 
this was granted to him, and he returned to Cuba. 

Soon after this event, a reconnoitering party was sent under Col. Mu- 
caco, to explore the interior of the country. They were one day suddenly 
surprised by a small party of men rushing upon them. Taking them for 
enemies, Mucaco ordered a charge, when one of the assailants cried out, in 
the Spanish language, begged them not to kill their countryman. Muca- 
co was astonished, and witheld his men from the assault. An explanation 
ensued, and Ortez, of whom we have before spoken, made himself known 
to his countrymen. He had remained a prisoner twelve years, had acquired 
the language of the country, and was from this period, of infinite service to 
de Soto, in his intercourse with the natives. 

Mucaco, the chief who had protected Ortez, governed a Province which 
was situate fifty-one miles east of Hiriga, and was near the present Indian 
town of Hichapucksassy. Through the mediation of Ortez, this chief be- 
came the friend and ally of the Spaniards. He also induced his kinsman, 
Uribarricuxi, who governed the next district, to become also an ally. 



HISTORY. 157 

Acuera, was the next province, it was divided from Uribarricuxi, by a deep 
swamp, beyond which it extended northwardly sixty miles. De Soto also 
acquired the friendship of Acuera, and during twenty days that the Spanish 
troops traversed his dominions, he supplied them with abundance of food. 
The province of Acuera, probably embraced the Indian towns of Oakahum- 
ky, or Piclaklakaha. 

The next province entered by the Spaniards was called Ocala ; it must 
have been the neighborhood of Fort King. For thirty miles they marched 
through a country of tall pines, more fertile than the lands near the sea. 
The population was more dense, and tho lands were well cultivated. For 
some leagues, the houses were thickly scattered along the road, before they 
reached the town. Ocala contained six hundred houses. The chief was 
friendly, and supplied the Spaniards abundantly with walnuts, sun-raisins, 
beans, millet, and other provisions. For eighteen miles beyond Ocala, the 
lands continued fertile, with pleasant rustic dwellings, the country spotted 
with ponds and small streams. 

The Spaniards left Ocala, and marched twenty-four miles in two days. 
On the evening of the third, the weather being fine, they marched all night, 
and early in the morning they reached the town of Ochili, perhaps Chichile. 
This was a large town in the province of Vitachucco, and must have been 
south of the Allachua prairie. It was fortified with pallisadoes, it contain- 
ed near five hundred houses ; that of the chief, was one hundred and twen- 
ty feet long, contained a great many rooms, and was placed on an artificial 
hill. 
De Soto here departed from the pacific course which he had hitherto pursued 
towards the natives. His army dashed suddenly into the town, the aston- 
ished inhabitants flew to arms, and made a short resistance ; it was wholly 
useless against the arms and discipline of their invaders, they submitted won- 
dering what kind of enemies had assailed them. De Soto then endeavored 
to conciliate them with kind treatment, and believed that he had secured 
their friendship. 

Vitachucco was governed by three brothers, who alternately assumed 
the reins of Government, during which time they resided at the Capital, 
while the other two retired to the country. At this time the last mention- 
ed brothers came into the city, appeared friendly, and presented vegetables 
(legumes) to the troops, who with great pleasure returned their good will. 
Two days march brought the Spaniards to Vitachucco, the Capital. Here 
the chief received them, in a very friendly and hospitable manner, and 
lodged De Soto in his palace. 

This town contained about twenty houses, for the chiefs, that were very 
large, and a great number of smaller ones. Here the Spaniards continued 



158 HISTORY. 

four days, during which time, some of them discovered that great quantities 
of arms were brought into the city, and that large bodies of men were con- 
cealed at a short distance, behind a copse of woods. De Soto was immedi- 
ately notified of these facts ; he concealed the information from Vitachucco, 
who continued to treat his enemies with great hospitality. 

On the morning of the fourth day, De Soto led forth his troops in order of 
battle, attended by Vitachucco and a large guard of Indians. Just as they 
were emerging from the wood into a large prairie, Vitachucco snatched De 
Soto's sword and made a violent pass to stab him. De Soto parried the 
stroke, and beat the savage to the ground ; he was saved by his guards, 
and a fierce battle succeeded. Six thousand Indians occupied the wood 
and the prairie, they fell upon the Spaniards with hideous yells, and the 
battle raged most of the day. The Spaniards were faithfully supported by 
their Indian allies, especially by the Uribarricuxians, who fought most 
bravely. The Vitachuccans were at length driven into an extensive grassy 
lake filled with water, where the Spaniards could not follow them. De 
Soto placed sentinels around the borders of the marsh, and rested on the 
field of battle. During the night the Vitachuccans rallied in the marsh, 
and broke into the prairie, but great numbers of them being killed, the rest 
retired. 

In the morning De Soto proceeded on his march towards Osachili, the 
Tallahasoche of the Seminoles, near Mico, in Hamilton County, twelve 
miles. At evening they encamped on the banks of a large river. This 
river (probably the Suwanne) separated the provinces of Vitachucco and 
Osachili. On the western side the natives had assembled in great numbers, 
to oppose the passage of the Spaniards. Early on the next morning the 
troops were in motion ; several large rafts were constructed, on which were 
pushed over one hundred fusiliers, and sixty cavaliers with their horses. 
Their landing was sharply disputed, but the natives at length gave way 
before the fire-arms and discipline of their invaders, and the whole army 
followed in quick succession. A beautiful country opened here to the 
Spaniards ; the earth was covered with corn, vegetables, grapes, and nuts. 
The capital of the province was at no great distance. It contained about 
two hundred houses ; the possession of it was sharply and resolutely con- 
tested by the inhabitants, but the Spaniards at last forced a passage and 
entered in triumph. De Soto, by great kindness, soon quieted the fierce 
savages, and when he learned that the Appalacheans were making war 
on Osachili, he volunteered his services to assist in conquering that rich 
and powerful province, where, he took it for granted, that he could spend 
the winter in peace and plenty. He spent but three days at Osachili to 
recruit his troops, and to collect a stock of provisions for the journey. On 
the morning of the fourth day they commenced their march for Appalache, 



HISTORY. 159 

and in three, days they had progressed thirty-six miles, through a barren 
country of pine trees, destitute of inhabitants. On the fourth day they 
arrived at an immense swamp (Oscilla,) covered with weeds and vines, 
with water from two to six feet deep. It was more than two miles across ; 
the devious path which led through it had been fortified by the Indians in 
the best manner their ingenuity could suggest, by floating logs, trees and 
brush across it, and fastening them with vines and wythes. They also 
dug many holes under the water and stuck down sharp stakes to maim 
the horses. De Soto was anxious to avoid this place and to find another 
crossing. He therefore encamped his army, and sent an exploring party 
of two hundred infantry and thirty horsemen to examine the country, but 
the swamp continued in front of them, with no other pass across it. On 
their return, De Soto drew up his army and made a desperate attack with 
his whole force, but was beaten back and obliged to retreat to his camp. 

The battle was renewed the next day, with no better success. The 
pass swarmed with Indians, who closed in with the Spaniards, hand to hand 
and fought with desperation, and being perfectly acquainted with the 
ground, had many advantages over their invaders. Besides, they had 
twelve years before successfully attacked Narvaez in this very place, and 
felt certain of defending the pass. 

On the third day, De Soto placed himself at the head of his troops and 
led them to the charge, and was bravely supported by Col. Mucoco, at 
the head of his guards ; they bore down all opposition and after six hours 
desperate fighting, they forced a passage through the swamp and encamp- 
ed on the western side, upon a low savanna. Here they rested the next 
daj" and sent out reconnoitering parties, to examine the country. These 
parties w T ere constantly waylaid, and many of the soilders were severely 
wounded by arrows. ' They discovered that another swamp (Mickasukee) 
lay before them, at a few miles distance. During the night, the savages 
hovered about them, howling like wolves, but made no attack. At an early 
hour in the morning the army took up the line of march, and having reached 
the Other swamp they made no stop, but plunged in amid the howling 
savages, who received them with a perfect shower of arrows. 

Every obstruction, that savages could invent, was here opposed to the 
Spaniards, and they fought for their last stake, like brave men. The fire- 
locks and horses of the Spaniards confounded them. Inch by inch, the 
passage was contested, until every obstacle was demolished, and the 
Spaniards at length found themselves again on solid ground. At two 
o'clock in the afternoon a small village was gained, on the west side of the 
swamp, where the army encamped for the night. The Indians gave them 
no rest, but attacked the sentinels in every direction. At day light, they 



160 HISTORY. 

proceeded towards the capital, through rich and highly cultivated lands. 
Fields of millet and other vegetables covered the ground. Scattering 
houses formed an irregular village the whole way. 

Towards evening they arrived at a deep brook, with tall trees of hard 
wood on its banks ; here the Indians kept them at bay another night. 
The Spaniards made several unsuccessful attempts to carry a palisade, 
but at each attempt they were beaten off by the Indians, who fought with 
desperation. Early in the morning, De Soto made a final assault and 
forced a passage. 

From this place they marched without farther opposition, over highly 
cultivated fields to Appalache, the capital of the province. It was situated 
sixteen miles from the first swamp, (probably on the western side of Mick- 
asookee Lake.) It contained two hundred and fifty large houses, hand- 
somely built, and the adjacent country was thickly sprinkled over with 
buildings. 

Small villages of 60 to 70 houses lay in different directions, to the dis- 
tance of six or eight miles. Provisions were abundant for men and horses. 
Fish in particular were caught in great quantities in lakes and streams, 
both here and at Ochili. Reconnoitering parties were sent out to examine 
the country in various directions. They found the country fertile for 20 
miles generally. Towards the sea it became cold and and wet, and north- 
ward and westward piney and thin land. One party, under Mucoco, dis- 
covered the bones of Narvaez' horses at Auta Bay, thirty miles 
distant. 

When De Soto had become quietly settled in these quarters for the 
winter, he despatched a party of twenty cavaliers under the command of 
Dalhusco, to Hiriga, ordering the vessels to be brought round into the mouth 
of the Appalache River. This service was performed at gieat risk. 
The party escaped pretty well, by the rapidity of their movements, until 
they reached the Big Swamp, here they could not evade an attack ; it was 
a pass always guarded by the natives, but the intrepidity of the Spaniards 
beat down all opposition, and the swiftness of their horses soon bore them 
out of danger. At Osachili they were obliged to construct a raft to bear 
them across the current ; here the Indians collected again and showered 
arrows upon them, but they landed without any loss, and arrived in safety 
at Tampa. The. vessels soon after set sail and arrived in safety at Appa- 
lache River, at a place called Auta. 

About Christmas De Soto despatched Maldonado with a small body of 
infantry, to explore the coast to the westward of Auta. He returned in 
January and informed De Soto that he had discovered a good harbor, of 
excellent depth, 180 miles to the west, which the natives called Ochuse, 



HISTORY. 161 

and that there were considerable signs of gold in the neighborhood. De 
Soto was much pleased, and despatched Maldonado to Havana for warlike 
implements, as well as for tools to work the mines. The Indians, in the 
meantime, often attacked the Spaniards, and beat up their quarters in the 
adjoining villages, but they were usually repelled. About this time a 
young Indian was brought before the governor, who had been taken 
prisoner at Napetaka. He stated that he was a native of the eastern 
coast, at a country called Yupaha. That it abounded in gold, and he went 
on to describe the process of extracting it from the ore so minutely, that h^ 
imposed on those who were best acquainted with the subject. They stated 
to De Soto that it was impossible for the Indian to describe the matter 
so correctly, unless he had seen the process of smelting, refining, &c. 
This raised the spirits of the whole army, and De Soto determined to march 
for Yupaha in three days. Every man was ordered to prepare for himself 
provisions for a journey of 60 leagues. These consisted of corn, dried 
grapes and dried persimmons, with a little dried fish. They marched four 
days over a barren country, when they arrived at a large river, rapid and 
deep, (the Flint, in Early county, Ga.) They obtained a large canoe, and 
with the help of a long rope crossed the army over in a day and a half. On 
the 11th of March they arrived at an Indian town, called Copochique. 
Here the Indians became very hostile, often attacking the foraging parties, 
and were sure to cut off all stragglers. When pursued they threw them- 
selves into marshes, where it was in vain to follow them. De Soto left 
this place as soon as provisions were renewed, and marched to Toalli, 
which he reached on the 21st of March. At this place the houses were 
covered with reeds ranged like tiles, the walls built of pales, and so plaster- 
ed as to appear like stone. Tn these houses they built large fires, because 
the winter was rather cold. Their granaries were raised on four posts, 
with floors made of canes. Both in their dress and buildings, these people 
were more civilized than the Indians near the coast. Their deer skins were 
dyed of beautiful colors, and from the inside bark of a tree they made quite 
a handsome kind of linen cloth. 

They staid but two days at Toalli ; on the 23d, they approached 
Achesi ; the inhabitants retired, but the Chief being sent for, he appeared 
before de Soto, and made a handsome speech, desiring to know what the 
Spaniards sought in his country, and whether he could serve them. De Soto 
told him he was the son of the sun ; that he had left his abode, to seek the 
greatest land, and the richest province in the country. The chief said, 
that Acuta was the richest country, he knew, and that he would send 
guides, and an interpreter to assist him. Soto was much pleased, and di- 
rectly set at liberty, all the prisoners he had taken at Achesi. At the same 

21 



162 HISTORY. 

time he set up a wooden cross, and explained it to the Indian, who promised 
to treat it with great respect. The next day they marched to Allaraca ; 
and on the tenth of May, they reached Acuta. The cassique of this place, 
sent 2000 Indians to Soto, with provisions, consisting of paniers, loaded 
with cakes of dried persimmons, and a great quantity of dogs, which were 
killed and eat instead of mutton. The natives supplied themselves with 
abundance of wild game ; but the Spaniards had not time to search for it. 
Soto staid but two days here ; the Chief gave him 400 Indians, to carry 
his baggage, and he proceeded to an Indian village, called Cofaque, and 
thence to a larger one called Potofa. The country as far as Acuta, was 
found by the Spaniards, to be flat and wet, covered with pine trees, and 
rough bushes. But from Acuta to Patofa, it was a delightful country, of 
hard timber, with cultivated fields, and fine streams of sweet water. The 
natives were friendly, and cheerful. They told Soto, that there was no 
rich country, to the eastward of them, to their knowledge. To the north 
west, they said that the province of Coca, was fertile and populous. But the 
chief said, he would supply guides, to go with the Spaniards in any direction 
they should choose. It is not stated what course was chosen, but it is pro- 
bable N. W. La Vega states, that the young Yupaha Indian led 
them into a wild barren country, where there were no roads, and finally told 
them he did not know where he was. Soto was enraged, and determined 
to kill the guide, and give him to the dogs ; but Ortez representing that he 
was the only Indian that could understand the native language, Soto 
smothered his rage from necessity. For nine days, the army continued in 
this wilderness ; at length, their provisions failed altogether, and the soldiers, 
and horses became weak from fatigue and hunger. They had crossed se- 
veral large rivers, which were rapid and deep, and they at length, came to 
one which ran to the S. W. (the Chatahooche,) and which in their feeble 
state, they could not cross. 

While the troops rested, the General himself mounted a horse, and 
with a few soldiers, rode the whole day in search of a road, but returned in 
the ni^ht quite disheartened, not having discovered the least trace of a 
human residence, or trail. The next morning, he called a council of war, 
to consider whether they should proceed, or retreat. Tne latter was op- 
posed, because the country was exhausted, and the Indians ready to fall 
upon them. It was concluded to reconnoitre the country more extensively, 
and a party was sent out for that purpose, but they returned in the evening 
without success. The next day, Macoco, Danhusco, Romo, and Labhillo, 
each at the head of a party of cavaliers, were directed to take different 
routes, and explore the whole country. Several hogs had been brought 
over by the army, and had multipled very fast ; they had attended the camp 
during all the marches, they were now put in requisition, and afford^ 



HISTORY. 163 

about half a pound of flesh to each man, for a short period. The Patofa 
Indians were dismissed ; they departed with much regret, at leaving the 
Spaniards in so much distress, i 

On the fourth day Danhusco returned, with the pleasing intelligence, 
that he had discovered an Indian town, thirty-six miles down the river. 
This intelligence revived the spirits of the whole army ; they immediately 
formed the line of march, and in three days arrived at Aymay, where they 
found extensive granaries filled with corn. The inhabitants fled, but Soto 
took four prisoners, who informed him that another town, called Catifachi- 
que, lay near that place. The General proceeded in advance of the army, 
and on the way took three prisoners, who informed him that a great lady 
governed the country. The General sent a messenger to present his com- 
pliments, and offer her his friendship. She in return sent her sister, to bid 
him welcome. Her majesty soon after appeared, in a large canoe, full of 
Indians, and an awning supported by a lance, shaded the poop. Her seat 
was formed of two cushions, where she reclined, surrounded by her women; 
many other canoes accompanied her. Soto stood on the bank to receive 
her ; she landed and made a very handsome speech to the General, and 
then presented him with many presents, especially a necklace formed of 
very large pearls. Here the army rested several days, and were supplied 
with fowls, and other provisions in abundance, and here the army wished to 
make a final settlement. The country was rich in nuts, mulberries, and 
persimmons. The natives were a tawney, plump, well made people, well 
clothed in their style of dress. They were much more polished in their man- 
ners, than the coast Indians. The river was navigable, and they were not 
more than two or three days journey from the sea. 

It is difficult to trace the course of the Spaniards from Appalache to 
Catafachique. It is pretty certain that the latter situation was upon the 
Chattahooche River, about two hundred and fifty miles above Appalache- 
They appear to have marched northeastwardly at first, and it is difficult 
to determine when they should have changed their course, unless it was at 
the time they lost the road. It appears that the Chiaha, in Chicasa coun- 
try, was at this time twelve days journey to the north, and the sea three 
days journey to the south ; these data with the description of the place of 
their stay, must designate the place to be on the waters of the Chattahooche. 
But Soto could not be detained here, the riches of Peru swam in his imagi- 
nation, and he prepared for new toils, conciliating his troops, by stating that 
the provisions of the whole country here would not supply them for one 
month ; that he must at all events, meet Maldonado at Ochuse. That in 
case of any misfortune, they could return here, when the Indians would 
have their fields replanted. 



164 HISTORY. 

On the third of June, they left Catafachique, taking the queen along; 
she had been greatly dissatisfied with the conduct of the Spaniards towards 
her people. Soto's conduct towards her was very inhuman ; he ordered 
that she should walk on foot, with her attendants, alleging, that she wish- 
ed to escape, and with her people to leave him without guides or laborers. 
She endeavored to sooth him, by ordering the Indians to carry his baggage; 
they obeyed her orders with great alacrity. The country was wretched. 
They passed a village called Chatague, whose chief presented Soto with 
two deer skins ; they were all he could give. They had come from Ocala, 
one hundred and thirty miles, eighty of which were a perfect desert. They 
now had to pass a mountainous country, two hundred and fifty miles to 
Hualla. During the march, the queen gave them the slip, and carried off 
with her, a casket of reeds, containing pearls of great value. Parties were 
sent in pursuit of her, in every direction, but in vain. 

In five days after the army arrived at Q,uaxulla, but found so little pro- 
vision, that Soto sent an Indian to the chief of Chiapa, requesting him to 
send provisions to refresh his troops. This request was granted, and 
twenty men were sent, loaded with mulberries and other provisions, which 
were presented to him. The country from Catafachique to this place 
abounds in fruits. For five days they marched through a desert ; they 
were then met by fifteen more Indians loaded with corn from Chiapa, who 
informed Soto that much more was at his service, as well as himself, his 
people, and his country. Soto sent a messenger to return his grateful 
thanks. 

The town of Chiapa was situate on the banks of a large river ; (the Mobile) 
opposite was an island, one mile long and two bow-shots across. The lands 
on the river borders were sown with rice. Such was the friendly deportment 
of the Indians, that the horses were turned loose to graze, and the Spaniards 
encamped in groupes among the trees, without order. This relaxation was 
a great relief to both troops and horses : the latter became fat in a short 
time. For thirty days the army enjoyed this necessary repose, and the 
hospitality of the Indians remained unchanged, until Soto was prevailed on 
to request the chief to send some of his men to carry the baggage of the 
Spaniards, on their march. The chief drily replied, that he would propose 
the matter to his subjects. But the inhabitants all left the town and fled to 
the island, fearing the Spanish horse. Soto was about to pursue them, but 
the chief came to excuse them, and offered himself as a guide. The Gen- 
eral took sixty men and the chief, over to the island, and explained the 
matter to the natives, who agreed to return. 

While these matters were transacting, the chief of Acoste came to offer 
Soto his services. The General, as usual, inquired for gold. Acoste told 



HISTORY. 165 

him that farther north, in the province of Chisca, copper was found, and 
another metal, purer and more lively ; but though more beautiful, was little 
valued, on account of its softness. Soto was charmed, and ordered the 
troops to be ready to march for Chisca. In the mean time he sent forward 
an express, to learn whether the mountainous country could not be avoided, 
by taking 1 a circuit through the low country. 

Soto now took leave of Chiapa, making him some valuable presents, and 
proceeded to Acosta, where he arrived on the 12th of June; and having 
pitched his camp at a small distance, he entered the town with eight men 
only. He was respectfully received by the chief; but while they were in 
conversation, some Spaniards entered the town to look for corn, and not find- 
ing any to please them, they began ransacking the houses. This conduct 
was so highly resented by the natives, that they gave them a good drub- 
ing with their clubs. Soto saw his danger, and being in their hands, made 
a merit of necessity, and snatching up a stick, joined the Indians in beating 
his men ; despatching, at the same time, a man to the camp, to bring up 
the horse, without delay, to his assistance. He then took the hand of the 
chief, and insensibly led him, in conversation, towards the camp, until the 
horse rode up and surrounded them both, and took them into the camp. 
The chief and several of his principal men were confined until he agreed to 
furnish guides for the army, and also until his express returned from 
Chisca. 

Three days after, the express returned and stated, that the country was 
utterly impassable ; that the road shown them, by the guide was mountain- 
ous, rocky and barren. On receving this information, Soto directed his 
march to Tali, and the chief having furnished guides was set at liberty. 
They arrived at Tali on the ninth of July, and were kindly received, the 
chief giving them provisons, and sending some of his subjects to carry the 
baggage. For six days they marched in the province of Cosa and reach- 
ed the chief town, on the 16th. The chief of Cosa came out to meet the Span- 
iards, in great style. He was seated on a kind of palanquin, carried on the 
shoulders of his subjects ; surrounded by his troops, attended by musicians, 
singing and playing on some singular instruments. The chief was dressed 
in a robe of martin skins, with a diadem of feathers on his head. He re- 
ceived Soto with much civility and they entered the town together, well 
pleased with each other. The Spaniards were made welcome to the houses 
and granaries, which were well filled with corn, beans, gourds &c, and the 
trees were loaded with two sorts of plumbs, and persimmons. The houses 
of the town were placed in the midst of cultivated fields. Rivulets of charm- 
ing water meandered through the fields ; their banks were clothed with 
grass and flowers, and luxuriant vines hung in festoons from the tops of the 



166 HISTORY. 

trees. Soto had been acustomed to carry a chief along with him, until he 
entered the territories of another ; making use of such of the natives as 
chose to follow him, for the service of the army, dismissing them when he 
arrived at another province. But the Indians of course were indignant 
when they beheld their chief kept in confinement, by strangers, who had 
been treated so liberally, and they fled to the woods for shelter, against such 
oppression. Soto sent armed troops to intercept their flight, and several 
severe conflicts were had, before they could- be humbled, to perform the 
drudgery of the Spaniards. Their chief finally persuaded them to submit. 
Cosa was abandoned on the 20th of August ; Soto marched first to Talli- 
muchasse and thence to Itava, where he was obliged to wait for the waters 
to decrease, in a river whose banks were overflown. When the waters had 
sufficiently fallen, he marched to Ulliballi. This town was fortified with palli- 
sadoes ; a beautiful stream skirted its borders. On the other side of this 
stream, dwelt the chief, who was surrounded with so many Indians, in war- 
like attiude, that the Spaniards were induced to guard against surprise. 
Soto sent messengers to the chief, requiring his attendance, and he came 
without delay ; bringing with him several male and female Indians, for the 
service of the general. The Spaniards marched next to Toasi. In a culti- 
vated country, the army usually progressed about eighteen miles a day, but, 
when in a barren country, they increased their speed as much as possible. 
From Toasi they arrived in five days at Tallisse. It was a large town, sur- 
rounded with a well cultivated country. Here the chief of Cosa was dis- 
missed with presents. Soto permitted the army to repose here for twenty 
days. He then marched for Tascaluca and encamped in a wood, near the 
town. The next morning, he sent Lewis De Moscoso to wait on the chief. 
Moscoso found him seated on cushions which were raised on a fine car- 
pet. He was surrounded by Indians ; the most considerable of which, 
were allowed to approach pretty near him ; the rest were kept at a respecta- 
ble distance. A servant held an umbrella over his head ; it was made of 
deer skin, so beautifully colored, that it looked like taffety ; it was about 
the size of a target. He was a great warrior and had rendered himself 
terrible to all his neighbors, and his dominions spread over wide extended 
and populous countries. He was large and well proportioned. 

As soon as Moscoso had made his obeisance, the squadron of horse, 
which attended him, performed many evolutions : riding at full speed, close 
up to the chief, making passadoes to and fro. The old man observed them 
with fixed gravity, but without any surprise. In the mean time, Soto ar- 
rived. The chief making no motion to meet him, he went up and took him 
by the hand and set down by him. The chief then rose and made an elo- 
quent speech, offering his services to the Spaniards. Soto thanked him and 



HISTORY. 167 

told him he should be under the necessity, of taking him along with the 
army, to the next province, to which he submitted, and the army marched 
the next morning. In two days, the army reached Piache ; it was situated 
on a large river, over which, they passed on rafts, made of cane reeds. 
Soon after a Spaniard pursued an Indian woman who attempted to flee into 
the woods, the Indians killed the Spaniard and relieved the woman. Soto 
declared to the chief, that he should be kept prisoner, until the man was 
found and restored. The chief submitted and requested Soto to permit one 
of his Indians, to go forward to Manilla, one of his towns, which lay upon 
the road, to order provisions to be got ready for the army. Soto readily 
consented, but suspecting treachery, he sent a Spaniard to watch the mo- 
tions of the Indian. This Spaniard met them, before they reached the 
place and informed the general, that the Indians were collecting in great 
numbers and with very hostile appearances, at Manilla. The army reach- 
ed that place, on the eighteenth of October. The Indians had erected palli- 
sades around the town ; no resistance however was made, to his enterance. 
He kept eight of his foot soldiers and a few horsemen about him, as a 
guard. He entered a house, with the chief ; when they were seated, Tas- 
caluca used his endeavor, to persuade Soto to proceed no farther into the 
country : Soto refused. The old chief withdrew into another house and re- 
fused to return. Soto sent for him, but he fiercely answered that he would 
not return, and advised Soto to retreat out of his dominions, without mo- 
lesting him any more. Soto was aware of the danger of his situation, he 
therefore waited on the chief and tried to sooth him, but Tascaluca turned 
from him, with disdain, and refused to answer him ; nor would he see Soto 
any more. 

The Spanish officers were consulted ; they advised to offer the chief his 
liberty, if he would furnish guides and baggage carriers, to the next province, 
and a chief was requested by Soto, to convey the message to Tascaluca. 
The Indian peremptorily refused ; a Spanish officer resented the insult ; a 
scuffle ensued, in which the Indian was killed. This was the signal for a 
general attack. The Indians showered arrows from all quarters on the 
Spaniards, who charged them in turn, but in vain, they were too numerous 
and too well sheltered, by the houses. Soto was obliged to retreat. The 
Indians pursued, with true savage fury, wounding Soto and all of his guard, 
killing five Spaniards outright. They then attacked the Spanish baggage, 
which they took and carried into the town, releasing and arming the Indian 
carriers. The Spaniards here lost all the riches they had collected among 
the Floridians, consisting of rich pearls, robes of fur, arms &c. 

The moment Soto reached the plain, and obtained a reinforcement of ca- 



168 HISTORY. 

valry, he made a charge on the Indians, with such fury that he slew three 
with his own spear, and pursued them to the palisades. 

A monk, a secular, and a servant, were left in the town ; seeing the tumult, 
they barricaded the doors of the house, which they occupied. The Indians 
mounted the roof in order to uncover it, and play their arrows on the Spa- 
niards. The army was brought up bj' Mascoso, to the pallisades. A halt 
became necessary, and a consultation of the officers, whether to storm, or 
besiege the town ; the former, although more dangerous, was resolved on. 
The best men were dismounted, the army was formed into four battallions, 
and each was led to attack one of the gates. The Indians, resolved to die 
rather than to submit, urged their old Chief to take the baggage, and re- 
tire to the wcods ; he complied, though very reluctantly. Soto was soon 
apprized of ihe retreat, he ordered the battalions to extend their lines so as to 
surround the place, and to set it every where on fire. The signal was then 
given to engage, and a horrid carnage ensued. The Indians fought most 
bravely, and repulsed the Spaniards, several times. In the midst of the 
fight, the monk and his companions found means to escape, but two brave 
Spaniards, who protected them, were cut in pieces by the savages. The 
fight lasted several hours, the sun was hot, and the thirsty Spaniards drew 
off to drink at a pool, near the palisades. It was nearly half blood, but they 
were forced to drink it. They then returned to the charge with renewed 
vigor. The Indians were driven from their pallisades, Soto entered at the 
head of the horse, and scoured the streets, while the soldiers set fire to the 
houses. The miserable inhabitants, attacked at all points with unusual 
weapons, were no match for the Spaniards, who, with their sabres, swept 
them away in files ; but they fought hand to hand, until they were nearly 
exterminated, and the few that remained, cast themselves into the flames 
and perished. Two thousand five hundred Indians were killed, and many 
wounded, but all the clothes, arms, and baggage, except what they had on 
their backs, and in their hands, w T as lost. 

This was the first severe loss that the Spaniards had sustained, since 
they landed in Florida, and it was a severe mortification to Soto, who had 
just received intelligence of Maldonado's arrival at Ochuse, now Pensacola, 
with the tools for mining. His present situation was seven days journey 
from Ochuse. He had marched his arm}' in a circuit quite round the 
northern parts of Florida, in the space of one year ; he had discovered no 
mines, and the pearls he had obtained, were all lost. He came to a con- 
clusion, to repair his loss, before he let it be known to his countrymen ; he 
therefore forbid Ortez to mention the arrival of Maldonado, to the troops. 

After recruiting his men and horses one month in this fertile country, he 
collected his troops, and on the eighteenth of November, he marched north, 



HISTORY. 169 

still in search of gold. We shall not follow bis perigrinations 

1553. out of our own region, except to mention that he proceeded as 

May 1st. high as the Cumberland River, then turned west, crossed the 

Mississppi, and reached Red River ; in the course of two-years, 

from this period. Here Soto died from fatigue and disappointment. 

After the death of De Soto, the Spaniards elected Col. Moscoco, their 
General. He immediately proceeded to build boats, and collect provisions 
to enable him to evacuate a country, where, instead of finding gold, they 
had found diseases, hostile enemies, and total ruin. As soon as the annual 
floods had rendered the river navigable, they descended it, entered the Mis- 
sissippi, and thence proceeded to the Gulf of Mexico. They were pursued 
down the river by the natives, and attacked at every opportunity, but without 
any material loss. After entering the Gulf they proceeded westward to the 
river Panuco. in Mexico, where they joined their countrymen, with three 
hundred and eleven souls, the sole survivors of the gallant army that 
1553 invaded Florida. Maldonado having waited a long time at Ochuse, 
Sept. and learning nothing from De Soto, he returned to Cuba with the 
10. fleet. 

The Spaniards, at length became discouraged, at so many fruitless 
attempts to settle a country that yielded only misfortunes, and the natives 

remained undisturbed for twenty years. 
1562. At this period, religious persecution raged in France. The Hu- 
gunots under the protection of Admiral Coligny, conceived the pro- 
ject of withdrawing from their native country, and of seeking an asylum Li 
the wilds of America. To effect this purpose, application was made to Q. 
Charles IX, who readily granted them two ships, which were manned with i ' 
zealous Calvinists, commanded by John Ribault, an ex perienced navi gato r/ 
They set sail on the 18th February ,U862) lntendrngto enter the River ^^ 
Santee, but they made land about the lat. of St. Augustine. They proceed- 
ed north, and entered a large river on the first day of May, and therefore 
named it May River. They left this river and proceeded north, and finally 
disembarked at a place near where Beaufort now stands, and erected a fort 
which they named Fort Carolin. They found the country pleasant, abound- 
ing in mulberry and persimmon trees, and inhabited by a race of hospitable 
Indians, who supplied them with food for the merest trifles. 

Ribault being desirous to establish a colony there, while he returned to 
France to report his success, twenty -six of his crew volunteered to stay 
and keep possession of the fort, and Albert, his Lieutenant, was left to com- 
mand them. A little field sixteen rods long, and thirteen wide, was stock- 
aded in around the fort. It was near the middle of July, when Ribault set 
sail for France ; on his arrival he found the country so involved in broils 

22 



170 HISTORY. 

and confusion, that he could draw no attention to his colony, which was 
neglected for two years. In the meantime, Albert visited the Indian Prin- 
ces in his neighborhood, culivating their friendship and paying every atten- 
tion to their wants, and such was his success, that they readily supplied his 
people with provisions, and made them many presents of pearls, chrystals, 
silver, &c. The Colonists, however, were licentious, lazy and quarrelsome, 
and to preserve peace between them and the natives, he was obliged to ex- 
ercise a very strict discipline ; this they would not endure. Among the 
Colonists, was one Lachan, who was a popular demagogue ; he endeavored 
to reduce some of the Indians to slavery, which Albert would not permit, 
and compelled him to do justice to the natives. A mutiny was the conse- 
quence, in which Albert lost his life. The Indians then refused to supply 
them with provisions, and none being likely to arrive from France, the Col- 
onists resolved to leave the fort, and return to their country. They chose 
Nicholas Bornu for their Captain, and having constructed a small vessel, 
and collected a very small quantity of provisions, they set sail for France. 
They had not been long at sea, before they were becalmed, and remained 
in that situation for twenty days ; this reduced them to a state of starvation. 
They cast lots to select one who should be butchered to sustain his compan- 
ions, when Lachan the mutineer offered his throat to the knife, which was 
accepted. Soon after this, they were discovered, and picked up by an En- 
glish ship, which landed them on the coast of England. They were con- 
ducted to Queen Elizabeth, and their account of Florida, first turned her 

attention to this country. 
1564 Early this year, Coligny obtained permission to send three ships 

to Florida, under the command of Rene Lardoniere, who had before 
accompanied Ribault in the first expedition. A great many volunteers 
of respectable connections flocked on board this expedition, which was 
well supplied with arms, provisions, and tools for agriculture. They ar- 
rived at Fort Carolin in the month of June, but found it abandoned. Lar- 
doniere distrusting the natives, left the place and sailed south to May River;* 
here he built a small town, fortified it with palisadoes and a rampart of 
earth, and named it also Carolin. It was about six leagues above the 
mouth of the river, on the south side. The friendship of the natives was 
assiduously cultivated, and they supplied the colony with provisions and 
afforded them every facility for exploring the country. Lardoniere improv- 
ed this peaceable disposition by settling the petty disputes of the natives, — 
soothing their rough passions, and in preparing their minds for exploring 
the interior of the country, where he designed to search for gold, which 
was, at that time, the universal passion. Small quantities of the precious 
metals and some pearls had been discovered, and the natives pointed to the 

* Probably the St. Johns. 



HISTORY. ]71 

S. W. as the direction from which they were procured. Two of his best 
officers, with a strong escort, were despatched on this service, who pene- 
trated to the Mississippi River, but they found no gold. In this expedition, 
however, the French exhausted all their trinkets and goods, so that they 
had nothing to offer to their neighbors for provisions ; — a famine was the 
consequence. Lardoniere had sent a vessel to France for provisions, but 
it never returned. He fitted out two more ; the crews mutinied, turned 
pirates, and cruised against the Spaniards. 

Had the governor on his first arrival employed his men in the cultivation 
of the soil, all the necessaries of life might have been procured independent 
of the natives, and all these evils would have been avoided. A council was 
now called, and they resolved to build a brigantine, sail for France, and 
abandon Florida. At this time an English vessel, commanded by a Capt. 
Hawkins, sailed up the coast. This vessel Lardoniere purchased at a 
reasonable price, and after dismantling the fort, prepared to sail for his 
native country. This was prevented by the appearance of Ribault with 

nine vesssels equipped with all the supplies necessary for the 
1565. colony. Ribault now assumed the command, re-established the 

fort, renewed a friendly intercourse with the Indians, and was about 
to get up another gold seeking expedition, when a Spanish fleet appeared 
on the coast, and furnished the Frenchmen with other employment. 

At this time France and Spain were at peace. Philip the Second had 
leisure to reflect on the importance of propagating the gospel among the 
heathen of Florida, a patrimony granted to him by the Pope on that 
condition. Don Pedro Menendez de A villa was appointed Adelantado, who 
is said to have equipped at his own expense twenty sail of vessels for the 
expedition. It was at this time that Charles the Ninth gave notice of 
Ribault's establishment on the east coast of Florida; this information at 
once fixed the course of the Spaniards. Volunteers flocked on board the 
fleet, zealous to destroy the heretics, so that in a short time Menendez 
found himself at the head of three thousand men. The fleet had scarcely 
sailed when they were overtaken by a storm, which sunk and destroyed 
two thirds of them ; the balance were collected at Porto Rico in so shat- 
tered a condition, that a general despair pervaded the troops. But Menen- 
dez revived them by assuring them that the Almighty had reduced their 
numbers that his own arm might achieve the victory without any human 
aid. Ribault had arrived on the Florida coast but a few days before 
Menendez. Four of his ships were too large to enter May River, and lay 
at anchor off the bar. Menendez hoped to have taken them with the six 
ships still left him, but Ribault slipped his cables and ran to sea, where he 
was closely pursued by Menendez for a short time, when he returned to the 



172 HISTORY. 

coast ; fearing to enter the river with his small force, he retired down the 
coast and entered the Inlet at St. Augustine, where he disembarked, and 
laid the foundation of the first permanent town in North America. Ex- 
pecting an attack from Ribault, he fortified the post in all haste, determining 
to defend himself until reinforcements could be obtained from Cuba. 

Ribault was not behind him in exertion ; he returned to May River, 
collected his whole force, withdrew from the fort all the artillery, arms and 
men, except eighty, who were mostly invalids. These, with the women 
and children, he committed to the care of Lardoniere, and sailed in pursuit 
of Menendez. He found the Spanish vessels anchored off the bar of 
St. Augustine, and bore down for them, expecting to make them an easy 
prey, when he was struck by a sudden tempest, which forced his fleet down 
th<3 coast, and finally wrecked the whole near Cape Canaverel. 

Menendez saw the tempest continue and was satisfied that his enemy 
could not collect his vessels on the station short of several days. He therefore 
selected his best men with eight days provision, and marched across the 
country to attack fort Carolin, which he knew must be undefended. The 
fatigue of traversing these forests and wet swamps was extreme, but he 
arrived in the forest, in the rear of the fort, without alarming Lardoniere. 
Here the Spanish historian states, that Menendez prepared his men for the 
attack, by kneeling and praying for success. From prayers they rushed 
to slaughter, and very few escaped the onset ; seventy women and children 
are said to have escaped death and submitted to slavery. Lardoniere with 
about, twenty men leaped from the parapet of the fort and made for some 
small vessels which had been left in charge of young Ribault, which hav- 
ing reached, they dropped down the river out of the reach of the enemy. 
Those who escaped instant death were hung to the limbs of a tree and left 
for the buzzards and crows to feed upon. Menendez had a stone monu- 
ment affixed near the spot on which was written "Not as Frenchmen, but 
as Heretics." This scene of horror was left immediately, lest Ribault 
should return and attack the post at St. Augustine. On his return he was 
hailed as a conqueror. Te Deum was solemnly chanted. He soon learn- 
ed that the Frenchmen were on the coast below the Matanzas bar. 

Ribault had collected about six hundred men from the wreck of his fleet ; 
a considerable quantity of small arms had also been saved. With this force 
he might either have reached his fort, or have attacked Menendez in his, 
with a fair prospect of sucess. But the extraordinary reverse of fortune, had 
broken down their spirits and distracted their councils. They finally con- 
cluded to surrender themselves prisoners at discretion. They formed into 
two companies ; the first consisting of two hundred men, proceeded up the 
coast as far as Matanzas Inlet. Here they were met by Menendez who 



HISTORY. 173 

had, with forty soldiers sailed up the sound to reconnoitre. A French sol- 
dier was sent across the inlet to learn what terms could be obtained ; the mes- 
senger was detained. The boat was then sent across for ten Frenchmen, 
who were taken behind a sand hill and murdered. And in this man- 
ner were the two hundred men decoyed across the stream, by tens, and all 
massacred and left on the sand, to be devoured by the birds and beasts of 
prey. 

In two or three days Menendez again repaired to the scene of butchery 
with his main force, where he was soon met by Ribault with the balance 
of his wTecked companions. Here Ribault endeavored to enter into nego- 
ciations to ransom himself and his men. Menendez treated him civilly 
and offered him food, but demanded unconditional submission. Although 
Ribault was shewn the carcasses of his murdered men, still he had the 
madness to submit, and induced one hundred and fifty more to follow his ex- 
ample. They were murdered to a man. The rest of the French retreated 
back to the wrecked vessels, built a small fort and began to construct a 
small vessel to bear them from the coast. The natives informed Menendez 
of their situation, who fitted out a fleet of small craft and attacked the fugi- 
tives, who were obliged to abandon their fort. They however rallied on a 
sand hill out of the reach of the large guns. To these Menendez offered 
terms of peace and safety. Their leader would not listen to any terms, but 
finding a majority disposed to surrender, he with about twenty of his follow- 
ers fled to the woods and they were never heard of more. The rest being 
too insignificant to injure the Spaniards, had their lives spared. 

Thus the whole colony was destroyed. All France was indignant when 
informed of this infamous transaction. But the king seemed satisfied, and 
no public notice was taken of the matter till 1569, when the chev- 
1569 alier Dominique de Gourgas, revenged the insult offered to his na- 
tion, at the same time that he gratified his private revenge. 

De Gourgas was a Catholic, born of a respectable family in Coir.inges, 
at Mount Marsan. His youth had been spent in arms, and his reputation 
was of the first order. In Italy he served against the Spaniards, by whom 
he was taken prisoner, and consigned to the gallies. From this situation 
he was released by the capture of the galley by an Algerine pirate. The 
prize was soon after retaken by a vessel of Malta, and De Gourgas restored 
to liberty. He then betook himself to the seas, and in several cruizes 
against the Spaniards he acquired considerable wealth. He had just 
retired to private life when the news of the Florida massacres reached 
France. He immediately sold his property, purchased two gallies and 
a tender, under pretence of trading to Africa. His first care was to pro- 
cure one of Lardonierc's men who knew the coast, and had acquired the 



174 HISTORY. 

Indian language. One hundred and fifty picked men, many of them gen- 
tlemen adventurers, were enlisted for a cruize of twelve months. His pur- 
pose he kept a profound secret, until he reached the coast of Florida. In 
a masterly speech he then informed his crews of the object of his voyage, 
pointed out to them the cowardly atrocities of the Spaniards, and the dis- 
graces that their nation had sustained from suffering the murderers to go 
unpunished. His fellows showed their readiness to revenge the wrongs of 
their countrymen. 

The fleet soon entered the river and passed the forts without suspicion ; 
salutes being interchanged as though they were Spaniards. De Gourgas 
not thinking himself safe to attack his enemies until he could collect rein- 
forcements. The Indians were numerous on the coast, and as they 
knew Lardoniere, they were greatly rejoiced at meeting their old friends, 
the French, and readily combined their warriors with them, for the purpose 
of revenging the injuries done to both parties by the Spaniards. Besides 
Carolin, the Spaniards had built two other forts, nearer to the mouth of the 
river, and had mounted on the redoubts the cannon taken from the French ; 
the whole were garrisoned with four hundred men. Gourgas left his ves- 
sels and marched his combined forces down the north bank of the river to 
attack the forts in the rear. He calculated to have reached them before 
day light, but the paths being intricate, the sun had risen just as they 
came in sight of the lowest, fortification ; they turned again into the woods 
and led the troops in a circuit across a small river, and were close upon the 
fort before the Spaniards discovered them. A few cannon were fired from 
the ramparts, when the Indians rushing forward, scaled the palisades, and 
being closely followed by the French, the place was soon taken. Gourgas 
made no delay here, but jumped into a boat, crossed the river, followed by 
the Indians swimming, and in a few minutes another fort was taken by 
storm. Fort Carolin still remained ; there the Spanish governor resided, 
with a garrison of three hundred men. Gourgas learned from a prisoner 
that his forces were estimated much higher than they really were, thought 
it good policy to attack the fort before the terror of his arms should be dis- 
sipated by a knowledge of his weakness ; he therefore collected eight skiffs, 
and compelling a Spanish prisoner to act as guide, he came early on the 
next morning in sight of the fort ; after planting groups of Indians around 
the place, in every copse of wood, to cut off the retreat of the Spaniards, 
Gourgas led the French to attack a low situation which he had discovered 
in the fortifications. This was immediately carried. The governor sent 
sixty men to guard the spot, but they were all cut in pieces by the assail- 
ants. This event frightened the governor so much, that he attempted to 
fly to the woods with his garrison ; there they were intercepted by the 
Indians, and scarcely a man escaped death. 



HISTORY. 175 

On entering the fort, they found some of the skeletons of the former co- 
lonists hanging to the limbs of the trees, and the stone engraved, " Not as 
Frenchmen, but as herelicks." Gourgas ordered the bones to be buried 
and the Spaniards to be hung in their places, and affixed this label, " Not 
as Spaniards, but as murderers.'' 1 Gourgas being aware that his force 
was too small to hold possession of the country, joined the Indians in de- 
molishing all the forts, and then embarked his troops for Fiance. 
1 574. When the Adelantado Pedro Menendez, heard of the destruction of 

his garrisons at Carolin, his indignation was great, but his enemy had 
escaped him. He thoughtit betterto preserve his force entireat St. Augustine, 
than to weaken it by rebuilding those places that he had held at so uncer- 
certain a tenure. He continued to govern that post for twelve years, during 
which period he was indefatigable in reducing the natives of Florida, to the 
catholic faith. At his request, the King of Spain, sent out missionaries 
from most of the religious orders ; but the greatest number, and the most 
enterprising, were franciscans. These men were sent among the Indians, 
in every part of the country, and by the mildness of their manners, and by 
teaching the arts of civilized life, they acquired a complete ascendency over 
them ; so that at the time the Adelantado left Florida, the King of Spain 
was acknowledged ; and the catholic religion was professed by all the tribes, 
from St. Helena on the north, to Bocca Rationes on the south, and from 

the Atlantic, to the Gulf of Mexico. 
1578. On returning to Spain, Menendez invested De las Alas with the 

authority, and title of Governor of Florida. He assembled a conn- 
ed of the province, and imparted to them his instructions, which had been 
left by the Adelantado. In pursuance of the advice of this council, he des- 
patched embassies to all the tribes of Indians, for several hundred miles to 
the west, and north of St. Augustine. In this he was so successful, that all 

the tribes east of the Appalachicola River, received into their towns 
1581. Spanish garrisons, and many Spanish families to instruct the 

Indians. 

1583. This year the Chickasaws, Tacoposcas, Apacas, Tamaicas, 
Apiscas, and Alabamas, joined in allegiance with the Spaniards, 

1584. and during the next year, the Chischemacas came into the same 
terms, so that the Spanish authorities were acknowledged as far west, 

as the river Missisippi, (Empalaqada) and north one hundred and forty 
leagues to the mountains of Georgia. It was at this period that the Mis- 
sionary establishments, and convents were founded, whose ruins are at this 
time a subject of curious investigation, in the middle district of Florida. It 
was here that the see of Rome chartered a great religious province, under 
the order of the Franciscans, it was called St. Helena, and all the minor 



176 HISTORY. 

establishments throughout .the province, were represented at the great 
Franciscan house, at St.- Augustine. 

1585. Some private adventurers, about this time, fitted out a fleet of 
twenty-six vessels, in England, to cruize against the Spanish com- 
merce. Sir Francis Drake, was appointed Admiral, Forbisher Vice, and 
Knolles Rear Admiral. This fleet sailed in September. They sacked St. 
Jago ; raised a contribution of twenty-five thousand ducats on St. Domin- 
go, and took Carthagena, after a hard fought battle. From thence they 

steered for Florida, doubled the cape and sailed up the coast. On 

1586. the eighth of May, they espied on the shore a tower, which appear- 
ed to be a look out station. The Admiral suspected it to be some 

Spanish establishment, ordered the pinnaces to be manned and landed the 
troops on an island. On marching up the shore, he discovered across the 
sound, a fort, and farther up a town, built with wood. 

General Carlisle, of the land forces, took a skiff and crossed the sound to 
reconnoitre. Although very cautious he was discovered by the Spaniards, 
who took the alarm, and after discharging a few cannon, fled, believing the 
English were at their heels. The General, however, returned without dis- 
covering their retreat. At length they observed a French fifer, crossing 
the sound in a little boat, playing the Prince of Orange's march ; he inform- 
ed the guard, that he had been taken prisoner by the Spaniards, and that in 
the recent panic he had recovered his liberty, and offered to conduct the 
English to the fort. Drake then crossed the sound, and took the fort, 
which was deserted. It was a wooden entrenchment, enlarged by palisades 
of cabbage trees. The platforms were made, by placing large pine trees 
horizontally across each other, and earth rammed in to fill the space. This 
fort was called St. John, and fourteen pieces of brass cannon, were found on 
the platforms ; a chest of silver was also found, containing two thousand 
pounds sterling, intended for the payment of the garrison, which consisted 
of one hundred and fifty men. 

The next day he marched towards the town, but some unfavorable rains 
intervened, so that they were obliged to return, and embark in the pinnaces, 
and so proceed up the sound. On approaching the town, the Spaniards 
made a show of resistance, but on receiving a volley from the fire arms, 
they fled into the country, leaving the town defenceless. The Admiral had 
intended to attack St. Helena, but the surfs on this shore are dangerous, 
and he had no pilot on whom he could depend ; he therefore sailed for 

England. 
1665. Captain Davis, an English Buccanier, sailed from the West 

Indies to attack St. Augustine, and meeting with no opposition, he 
plundered the town, although it was fortified by an octagon fort, and two 



HISTORY. 177 

round towers, garrisoned with regular troops. It was about this period that 
the English made a permanent settlement at St. Helena, on the banks of 
what was at that time called May River. The Captain General of Cuba, 
was by the court of Spain, ordered to dislodge them, but it was never 

done. 
1680. This year, the Spanish Governor of Florida, Don John Menyers 

de Cabrana, become jealous of the Yamasee chief, Nichosatly, whose 
tribe was, at that time, very powerful in numbers and in bravery, possess- 
ng many flourishing towns in various parts of Florida. This chief resided 
near the new settlements of the English at St Helena. He denied that he 
had afforded any assistance to these new settlers, and professed much loyalty 
to the King of Spain, and allegiance to the catholic church. Yet he was 
condemned as a traitor. He exhibited a very christian temper, forgiving his 
enemies, and exorting his friends not to revenge his death. Nothing could 
appease Cabrana, and Nichosatty was publicly executed. The English 

took advantage of this event, to excite the Yamasees to a fierce war 
1686 against the Spaniards, who were shortly driven from all the islands 

north of St John's River. Cabrena was soon after recalled and 
punished by the King of Spain, but from this period the Spanish influence 

declined among the natives of Florida. 
1689. During this year an English colony was settled on Ashley 

River, where Charleston now stands. This settlement was patron- 
ized by Governor Sayle. It was also during this year that Monsieur 
Bienville planted a French colony on the Bay of Baloxi, opposite Ship 
Island on the Gulf of Mexico, and the Spanish court despatched Count 
Ariola to establish a fortified post at the entrance of Pensacola Bay to 
check the progress of the French. The post was named Anchusa, from 
an ancient Indian name of the bay. Ariola built a square fort with 
bastions, a church, and a few dwelling houses, near the site of the present 

fort of Barrancas. 
1693. The Count de Galvez, Viceroy of New Spain, being informed 

that the affairs of Florida were in a bad situation, he despatched 
Don Andrea de la Paez with an armament to Pensacola Bay ; he landed at 
Point Sequenza, on the west end of S. Rosa Island, where he planted a 
small village. He then made another establishment across the bay on the 
site of Pensacola. To this bay Don Tristan de Luna had given the 
name of St. Maria, and De Paez added the name of the Viceroy de Galvez. 

Before De Paez left Pensacola he erected a castle for its defence. 
1702. By this time, the English settlements in North and South Caro- 
lina had become strong and wealthy. Governor Moore, of South 
Carolina, projected an invasion of Florida. To promote it, the Legislature 

23 



178 HISTORY. 

voted two thousand pounds sterling. Six hundred volunteers were raised, 
and six hundred Creek Indians engaged and armed to accompany them. 
Several schooners and other merchant vessels were impressed as trans- 
ports to convey the troops to Port Royal, the place of rendezvous, where 
the governor in person joined the expedition in the month of September. 
Col. Daniel was appointed second in command, and was ordered to take 
with him one division of the army and to proceed through the inland pas- 
sages to the St. John's River, and from thence to scour the country to St. 
Augustine, and to attack that city in the rear, while the governor should 
enter the harbor and assault it in front. Col. Daniel was an officer of spirit, 
he pushed forward, entered and plundered the town before Covernor Moore 
arrived. But the Spaniards had collected provisions and withdrew into the 
fort of St. Mark's with their most valuable effects, and prepared for any 
emergency. On the arrival of Moore, the fort was regularly besieged with 
a force against which the Spaniards could make little resistance, and they 
lay quietly within their walls. Moore directly found that his artillery 
was altogether too light to injure the place. He therefore despatched Col. 
Daniel in a sloop to Jamaica for cannon and mortars. During his absence 
two Spanish vessels hove in sight. One of them carried twenty two and 
the other sixteen guns. Moore was struck with such a panic, that he fled 
through the country by land, and abandoned his whole armament, ships, 
stores and all, to the Spaniards. 

Col. Daniel soon after returned, and was entering the harbor when he 
discovered that Moore had raised theseige. He narrowly escaped capture. 
The Creeks were indignant at the conduct of their ally and abandoned the 
English with disgust. When the Governor returned to Carolina, very se- 
vere reflections were cast upon him. The expedition had cost the colony 
six thousand pounds sterling, which they were not then in a condition to 
pay ; and this great sum had purchased nothing but disgrace. In order 
to defend himself, Moore was obliged to keep himself surrounded by armed 

troops, and with these he put down all opposition. 
1704 Two years afterwards, Moore wishing to retrieve his character 

with his countrymen, applied to the Legislature to furnish him with 
troops to attack the Appalache and Yamasee towns in the western part of 
Florida, but they refused. They told him that he might raise volunteers 
and make war on the Indians if he chose, but declared their inability to 
supply him with funds. He therefore collected about twenty-five resolute 
Carolineans and proceed to the Creek nation, whose various tribes had long 
been at war with the Appalache, Yamasee and Attamasco Indians. He 
soon engaged one thousand warriors to march under him. With this army, 
he proceeded down the Flint River and entering Florida, made his first 



HISTORY. 179 

tiltack on Lewis 1 fort, situate about twenty miles from the sea and east of 
the Oclockony River. The Governor of Appalache, was Don Juan Mexia. 
The fort was garrisoned by four hundred men, a number amply sufficient to 
have defended the place against any number of men who were destitute of 
artillery, but led by a foolish spirit of chivalry, he marched out to meet the 
Creeks on their own ground. A terrible battle ensued, which terminated in 
the death of Mexia and nearly all the Spaniards under his command. The 
fort was taken and burned. A scene of general devastation succeeded, mon- 
asteries, convents and missionary establishments, sunk in succession beneath 
the flames, and such of the inhabitants as escaped the tommahawk and 
scalping knife were driven into captivity. Fourteen hundred Yamasees 
were driven into Georgia, some of them were made slaves and the balance 
were settled on the north side of the Savanna River. From this time the 
Spaniards abandoned middle Florida except the fort on the Appalachicola 
River, below the junction of the Flint andChattahooche, which was present- 
ly abandoned and the armament and stores removed to St. Marks, a new fort 
which was begun at the forks of the Appalache at the request of the Uche 
tribe of Indians. This was never finished, but a garrison was kept there 

until Florida was given up to the United States. 
1706. This year the French and Spaniards under Mons. La Febour, 

entered the port of St. Augustine on their way to attack Charles- 
ton. After taking a part of the garrison from the fort they sailed for Carolina, 
but on their arrival they found the country so perfectly defended by Gov, 
Johnston, that they found it necessary to retreat, after loosing three hundred 

of their best men. The combined fleet retired to Havanna. 

1715. On the 31st of June of this year, a Spanish fleet of fourteen sail 
of galleons on their return from Mexico through the Gulf of Florida, 

ran foul of the reef near Carysford, through the ignorance of the Admiral 
Don Rodrigues de Torres. Every ship but one was destroyed. The 
Captain of the ship that was saved disobeyed the signal of the Admiral and 
bore away. An immense treasure was lost. The Spaniards, some time 
afterwards, fitted out a company of wreckers and divers, and sent them to 
attempt a recovery of the specie and bullion that w T as on board the galleons, 
were very successful, and raised a large quantity of the treasure. 

1716. The English in Jamaica, learning how the Spaniards were 
employed, fitted out two ships and four sloops, under the commandof 

Captain Henry Jennings, who immediately sailed to the Florida Keys, 
anchored his fleet, and sent three hundred men on shore to attack the 
Spanish guard, which consisted of sixty men, who fled into the woods and 
abandoned to the English three hundred and fifty thousand pieces of eight, 
which was carried in triumph to Jamaica. 



180 HISTORY. 

1717. This year, the Spanish authorities in St. Augustine procured a 
general combination of the western Indians against the English 

settlements of the Carolinas. The Yamasees, Creeks and Appalaches, 
attacked the southern frontier ; while the Congarees, Cataubas and 
Cherokees, killed, burnt and destroyed the western settlements. Governor 
Craven, however, foitunately brought their united forces to a general 
battle, near a place called Saltcatchers, and totally defeated them, and 
pursuing his success, he drove them all across the Savanna River and ended 
the war. The Yamasees, thus humbled, retired into East Florida. For 
a long time they cherished the most deadly hatred against the Carolineans, 
and for many years they occasionally sent out scalping parties, who cut 
off the frontier families, and usually inflicted on them the most cruel 
tortures. 

1718. This year Governor Ayola was succeeded by Don Antonio de 
Benavuedi Barini y Malini, who put a stop to the hostilities against 

the English, and it was ihought that he treated his Yamasee allies with 
much ingratitude. He published an ordinance exiling them to the distance 
of 6 leagues south of the city of St. Augustine and also to the same distance 
from the Fort of St. Marks in West Florida. This fort had been erected by 
Governor Ayola at the special request of the Uche and Yamasee Indians, 
that resided near Coweta. 4t the beginning of this year the first garrison 
of Spanish troops took possession of it, and fortified it with cannon, in order 
to protect the natives from the frequent incursions of the northern Indians. 

The Yamasees remonstrated with the new Governor against his order ; 
stating to him, that, although they had at one time joined the English, to 
wit, after the execution of their chief Nichosatly, yet they had since re. 
psnted of that fault, and fought against them in behalf of the Spaniards. 
They said it would be a grevious act to drive them from their fields of corn, 
and their houses, while the English were their enemies. That they revere- 
ed the catholic King, and the holy church, and desired to have its rites ad- 
ministered to them, that they were content to live in peace with all nations. 
Malina was immoveable, and instead of granting any favor to their reason- 
able requests, he sent Captain Lewis Ortagas, with an armed troop to 
quicken their obedience. 

The Yamasees complied without further reply, abandoning their fields 
almost ripe for the harvest, their cattle, horses, hogs, furniture &c. Many 
of these poor wretches died of hunger, fatigue, and broken hearts. Great 
numbers of women, children, and infirm persons, were left, on the island of 
St. Mary's* being unable to travel. These were presently discovered by 
the English, who pursued the fugitives in their launches, on which they 
had mounted swivels ; these they brought, to bear on the miserable starving 

* Amelia. 



HISTORY. 181 

rabble, who had not a tree or bush to protect them, but were murdered in 
cold bloorl. Four hundred were thus slaughtered ; and of three thousand 
that now survived, more than two-thirds died in less than a year, by hunger 
and diseases. 

Thus was this once powerful and warlike nation, almost annihilated by 
those friends, for whom they had fought and bled in vain. The English 
soon occupied the fields thus abandoned. They planted a town on the river 
Jordan, which they called Savanna, and the surrounding country, they 

called new Georgia. 
17] 8. During this year also, the French established a fort on the north 

shore of St. Joseph's Bay, and planted about it a small settlement. 
The fort was named Crevecoeur ; but the Spaniards protested against this 
settlement, as an invasion of their rights, and the next year it was abandon- 
ed. The same spot was afterwards occupied by a garrison, sent there by 
the Marquis Salino Vive, under the command of Don Gregorio Salinas 
Barrera, but it was soon afterwards also abandoned by them, and the fort 

destroyed. 
1819. About the latter end of May, Mons. de Serigny, Governor of 

Louisiana, sent Mons. Chateaugue, with eight, hundred Indians, to 
invest the fort at Pensacola. It was built about twenty-two years before 
by de Pez ; but little progress had been made in settling the country. 
Mons. de Serigny proceeded himself, by water, with three ships. The 
Philip, and Thoulouse, carried each twenty-four guns, and the Hercules 
fifty six, and bore the Admirals broad penant ; they also carried out four 
hundred men. The Spaniards made a show of resistance, but fired only 
two or three shots, before they beat the chamade, and had the privilege of 
marching out, with their arms and baggage ; their arms were, however, to 
be delivered up on the esplanade. It was also agreed that they should be 
sent to Havanna, in French vessels. Accordingly the Thoulouse, and 
Marischal de Villier, which were about to sail for France, were ordered to 
land the Spanish garrison at the Havanna. They sailed on the beginning 
of June, but when off the Havanna, they were captured by a Spanish fleet, 
that were destined to break up the settlements of New Georgia. The 
ships were taken into the Havanna, and fitted up to return with a new force 
to Pensacola, to which place the whole fleet was now ordered. They 
arrived in August, with eighteen hundred troops, six hundred of whom 
were regular forces. The French withdrew the companies of two ships 
into the fort. They were summoned to surrender, but refused. However, 
a mutiny was soon after raised, which resulted in a capitulation, without a 
gun being fired. The garrison consisted of two hundred and eighty men. 



132 HISTORY. 

About the month of September Mons. Champslen appeared off the bar, 
with six ships ; — the Hercules, of fifty-six guns ; the Mars, of sixty ; the 
Triton, of fifty-four, the Philip, of twenty-four ; and the Union, of thirty- 
six ; with a brigantine. The Spaniards having heard of their arrival at 
Dauphin Island, were prepared to receive them. They constructed on the 
western point of St; Rosa Island a stockaded fort, with ordnance and men 
to defend it. But it was found too weak to withstand the heavy artillery 
of the French ships. It was soon battered in pieces, and most of the gar- 
rison killed. The Spaniards then drew up their fleet, consisting of eleven 
small vessels, and fought gallantly until all their ammunition was expend- 
ed : then they were obliged to strike their colors. The fort continued the 
action warmly for two hours longer, but finally sent out a flag and offered 
to capitulate, as they greatly dreaded the Indians who had invested the 
fort by land, under Mons. Bienville. The French refused any other terms 
than a surrender as prisoners of war. These terms being accepted, the 
fort was given up on the 17th of September; six hundred men laid down 
their arms. The French immediately demolished the fortifications, burnt 
up the houses, and left the place a scene of perfect desolation. 

This year a dispute arose between the governors of St. Augustine 
1725 and South Carolina. The Spaniards charged the English with in- 
truding on their lands, and the Englishmen charged the Spaniards 
with enticing away their negroes, and in urging the Yamasees to murder 
the frontier inhabitants. Gov. Malina recalled Antonio Macono, with 
those Yamasees that had survived their banishment, and having armed 
and equipped them, despatched them across the country into Georgia, 
where they ravaged the frontier settlements with horrible carnage, sparing 
neither age nor sex. Col. Palmer raised about three hundred militia and 
Indians, and entered Florida with a resolution to retaliate these injuries. 
He burned and destroyed nearly every settlement in the colony, to the very 
gates of St. Augustine. The inhabitants flew to the fort for refuge, but 
the poor Yamasees were most of them killed or made prisoners. The 
Spaniards saved nothing except what was protected by the guns of the 
fortress. Among other devastations, the Georgians plundered the chapel 
of Nostra Seniora de la Lache, which stood without the walls of the ciry, 
stripped it of the gold and silver ornaments, and took the infant image from 
the Virgin Mary and carried it as a prize to Col. Palmer, who lay at Fort 
Mosa, two miles north of the city. He cast the image into the field, and 
angrily told the soldiers that the Spaniards would one day punish them for 
their sacrilege. Palmer well knew that without cannon he could make no 
impression on the fort, he therefore retired with an immense booty, in cattle, 
horses, and other plunder. 



HISTORY. 183 

1740. Fifteen years elapsed before any event of importance occurred 
in Florida. The spirit of enmity was kept up between the Spanish 
and English settlements, by the Spaniards sheltering and protecting the 
negroes who ran away from the English colonies. This, they said they 
were bound in conscience to do, in order to convert them to the catholic 
religion and save their souls. General Oglethorpe, Governor of Georgia, 
projected an invasion of Florida, and wrote to the other colonies for assist- 
ance. They raised four hundred men and sent them to him, under the 
command of Col. Vanderdussen. He also engaged a large body of Creek 
Indians, so that in May he rendezvoused at the mouth of St. John's River, 
with more than two thousand men of all kinds. Commodore Price, com- 
mander of the English ships of war on that station, acted in concert, but 
neglected to blockade the harbor of St. Augustine in season. 

Oglethorpe selected four hundred men and a party of Indians, with 
which he invested Fort Diego, situate on the Plains of that name, twenty- 
five miles from St. Augustine. This fort, after a short resistance, capitu- 
lated. In this fort he placed a garrison of eixty men under the command of 
Lieut. Dunbar, and here the General committed an error, which in the end 
rendered the whole campaign abortive. Instead of pushing directly to St. 
Augustine, and taking the Spaniards by surprise, he returned to St. John's, 
where he was joined by more troops. While there, the Spaniards received 
into the harbor six half gallies, with a number of long brass nine pound 
cannon, and two sloops loaded with provisions, and all the cattle in the 
country were driven into the town. Thus provided, the Spaniards bid 
defiance to their invaders. 

Oglethorpe marched his army in a few days to the Fort Mosa, two miles 
north of St. Augustine ; this being destroyed, he proceeded to reconnoitre the 
town. The observations he made, and the report of prisoners tended 
much to discourage him. The fort, that had been a long time building, 
was now in a fine state of defence, from the cannon lately received ; 
besides, the town was entrenched with ten salient angles, on each of which, 
more or less cannon were mounted. The garrison consisted of seven hun- 
dred regulars, two troops of horse, and four companies of armed negroes, 
besides militia and Indians. It was utterly in vain to think of carrying the 
place with his means ; he therefore changed the siege into a blockade. 
The ships were moored across the harbor, and lines were established around 
the town by land ; Colonel Palmer with a company of Highlanders and 
forty-two Indians, stationed at Fort Mosa ; with orders to scour the woods 
and intercept all supplies of cattle, &c ; and for greater safety, they were 
directed not to come to action, but to keep strict watch, and encamp every 
night at a different place. He sent Col. Vanderdussen to erect a small 



184 HISTORY. 

battery on Point Q,uartell, and he, with his regiment of Georgians and the 
main body of Indians, passed over to Anastasia Island. From a battery 
erected at the north end he intended to bombard the place. Capt. Price 
stationed one of his ships off the mouth of the. Matanzas River, to prevent 
supplies from that quarter. With the assistance of the sailors, cannon 
were soon mounted on the batteries. The Spanish garrison was then 
summoned to surrender. But the Governor answered that he should be 
happy to shake hands with the General in the fort. 

Oglethorp was indignant, and renewed his exertions to reduce the place ; 
his batteries opened a hot fire, and a great number of shells were thrown 
into the town. The Spaniards returned the fire, with equal spirit, both 
from the fort, and from the half gallies. But the combatants were too far 
distant from each other, to do much execution. Capt. Warren, a brave 
naval officer, offered to attack, and carry the gallies in the night ; a coun- 
cil of war was called, to consider on the subject, but the plan was relinquish- 
ed, because the water was too shoal, to bring up any heavy vessel, to cover 
the attack, and the galleys laying under cover of the guns of the fort, it was 
thought, that the risk was too great. The Spanish Governor observing 
that some embarrassment had relaxed the fire of the besiegers., he sent out 
a detachment of three hundred men, with some Yamasees, against Col. 
Palmer. They surprised him at fort Mosa, while asleep and unguarded. 
The Highlanders, with their Colonel, were cut in pieces ; a few only escaped, 
who obtained a small boat, and joined the Carolina regiment, at point 
Quartell. The Spanish historians, assert that Col. Palmer was killed by 
Wakona the Yamasee Chief, on the spot where he had cast the infant 
image into the field. 

Another misfortune soon followed : a Cherokee encountering a Spaniard, 
cut off his head, and brought it to Oglethorp, but he spurned the savage, 
with abhorrence, and calling him a barbarous dog, bid him begone. The 
Cherokees said, that the French would have treated them very differently. 
They soon after drew off, and left the place. 

Soon after this, the ship placed off the Matanzas sound, was removed. 
Immediately several small boats entered, and brought several hundred men to 
reinforce the garrison ; with an abundant supply of provisions. The troops of 
Oglethorpe now lost all hope. They were enfeebled by the heat of the cli- 
mate ; dispirited by sickness, and fatigued by fruitless exertions, in a despe- 
rate cause. They deserted in large bodies. The fleet being short of provi- 
sions, and the stormy season approaching, the Commodore judged it impru- 
dent to risk the ships any longer on the station. General Oglethorpe him- 
self, fell sick of a fever, and the flux raged in his own regiment. The siege 
was raised, and the troops retired to Georgia. 

* This is denied by the Spanish historians. 



HISTORY. 185 

The General was blamed for his delay at Diego, for want of energy, 
in not attempting to carry the place ; for placing so small a party at Fort 
Mosa, exposed to the sallies of the enemy. The General alleged, that he 
was not supported by the troops, that he could place no confidence in them, 
that Palmer was lost on account of disobedience of orders and negligence. 
It is not probable that he could have taken the place, with double the force 

he possessed, unless by surprize. 
1742. Two years had scarcely elapsed, when the English colonies 
were, in their turn, made to feel the terrors of invasion. An army 
of two thousand men was raised in the Havanna, and Ar.tonio de Rodondo 
appointed Adjutant General, and Don Manuel Montiano General of the 
army. They were embarked in a number of vessels, which put into St. 
Augustine, about the middle of May. It was however, discovered, by 
Captain Haymer, who was cruizing on the coast. He immediately gave 
advice to General Oglethorpe, who sent to Glen, Governor of Carolina, re- 
questing assistance. He at the same time, despatched advice to Admiral 
Vernon, in the West Indies. 

The people of Carolina, had lost all confidence in Oglethorpe and refused 
to send troops to his assistance, but, in as much, as Georgia had proved a 
great barrier against the Indians, it was thought necessary to fit out some 
vessels, to cruise down the coast and see what could be done, for their re- 
relief. Oglethorpe made every possible exertion, to prepare for the event. 
He procured great numbers of Indians, from the Creek nation, with whom 
he was very popular. A company of Highlanders joined him, anxious to 
find an opportunity of revenging their companions, who were massacred at 
Fort Mosa. A company of Rangers also joined him at Frederica, where 
he fixed his head quarters. The Spanish fleet hove in sight on the last of 
June. It was under the command of Don Manuel de Monteano, governor of 
East Florida. It consisted of thirty-two sail of vessels, bearing more than 
three thousand men. The fleet came to an anchor, outside of St. Simons' 
bar, and boats were sent to sound out the channel. After which they entered, 
with the tide, and stood in for Jekyl, (called Oboloquina sound.) The batte- 
ries on St. Simons were opened upon them as they passed, and the fire was 
returned, by the fleet, until they were out of reach. They passed up the 
river Altamaha. There the enemy hoisted a red flag, at the mast head of 
the largest ship ; landed their forces upon the Island and erected a battery, 
mounted with twenty, eighteen pounders. 

The Spaniards had a fine company of artillery, commanded by Rodondo, 
and a well disciplined regiment of negroes, whose officers dressed, ranked 
and associated with the Spanish officers, without reserve. 

Oglethorpe found that his situation on the island of St. Simons was too 

24 



186 HISTORY. 

dangerous, he therefore spiked his cannon, burst the bombs and cohorns. des- 
troyed such stores as could not be carried away, and retreated to Frederica; de- 
termined to act on the defensive and with the greatest caution. He kept one 
part of his troopsbusily employed on the fortifications, while the balance scour- 
ed the woods, in every direction, to avoid surprise and to check any incur- 
sions. His Indians often fell upon the outposts of the enemy, and at length 
they brought in five prisoners, who informed him of the enemies force. 
His provisions were bad and scarce, but this he was obliged to keep secret, 
from his own troops. He still expected assistance from Carolina. And 
while the enemy commanded the river and harbor, no supplies could be ex- 
pected. His whole force, Indians, militia and regulars amounted only to 
seven hundred men. He exposed himself to the same fare and the same 
fatigues as the meanest soldier. 

Several attempts were made to force a passage through the woods, in 
order to attack the fort of the Georgians ; but the deep morasses and thick- 
ets were so lined with wild Indians and fierce Highlanders, that the Span- 
iards said, that the Devil could not get to Frederica. In two skirmishes 
with the exploring parties of the Spaniards, the latter lost one captain, two 
lieutenants and one hundred men, taken prisoners. Monteano then sent 
some gallies up the river, with the flood tide, to reconnoitre the fort, and to 
attract the attention of Oglethorpe to another quarter. A party of Indians 
were placed in ambush to prevent their landing. 

About this time an English prisoner escaped from the Spanish camp, 
and informed the General that the Cuba troops and the Florida troops had 
quarrelled, so that each had formed a separate encampment. He immedi- 
ately determined to surprise one of them. Being well acquainted with the 
woods, he marched out in the night with the Highlanders and rangers, in 
all, three hundred men. He approached within two miles and halted the 
troops, going himself forward with a small party to examine the situation of 
the enemy, but he was betrayed by a French deserter, who fired his musket 
and gave the alarm. Being thus discovered, he retreated back to Frede- 
rica, perfectly aware that the deserter would discover his weakness to the 
enemy. Oglethorpe was greatly troubled ; but on reflection he determined 
on a plan to avert the consequences. For this purpose he wrote a letter 
to the Frenchman, directing him to use every art to induce the Spaniards 
to make an attack on Frederica, by stating its weakness and defenceless 
situation. But if he could not succeed in that, by all means to prevent them 
from retreating, if it was only for three days, until the arrival of six 
British ships, when he expected to give a good account of the Spaniards. 
This letter was confided to one of the Spanish prisoners, who was bribed 
to deliver it to the Frenchman. The Spaniard, as was expected, gave the 



HISTORY. 187 

letter to Monteano. Various were the speculations and conjectures that 
this letter created ; some of the officers believed it to be true, and that the 
Frenchman was a spy, others gave no credit to the matter, believing it all 
a hoax. The Frenchman, however, was put in irons, and a council of war 
was called. While the Spanish officers were in conclave, consulting about 
the letter, three ships sent from Charleston appeared off the coast. This 
corresponded so well with the letter, that every man was convinced ; a 
general panic ran through the camp, the Spaniards set fire to the fort and 
embarked in perfect confusion, leaving behind them several cannon, and a 
large quantity of provisions and military stores. The wind opposed the 
entrance of the Carolina ships all that day ; before the next morning the 
Spanish fleet had slipped out, and were under way for St. Augustine. In 
this affair Oglethorpe retrieved his character with the colonies, both for 
personal courage and military skill. 

Monteano was fifteen days on a small island, with three thousand men 
and a powerful fleet, opposed to seven hundred troops of all kinds ; lost 
several of his bravest men, with several cannon and many stores, and gain- 
ed nothing. On his return to Cuba he was imprisoned and tried for mis- 
conduct. General Oglethorpe was also recalled and tried on nineteen 
charges, brought against him by Lieut. Col. Wm. Cook, who owed his 
preferment to the friendship of the General. He was honorably ac- 
quitted. 
1743. The next year Governor Oglethorpe retaliated upon the Province 
of Florida another secret expedition. He proceeded by land from 
St. John's River, attended by a numerous collection of Creek Indians. He 
proceeded with great caution to the neighborhood of the city of St. Augus- 
tine, where he planted an ambuscade, and then took possession of a small 
fort that had been erected to protect the King's workmen. A troop of 
cavalry was sent out to succor the workmen, and by accident the ambus- 
cade was discovered. Had this not been done, the cavalry would probably 
have been intercepted, and the gates would have been entered by the enemy. 
This stratagem having been frustrated, Oglethorpe perceived that an 
assault would be useless, he retreated back to Georgia after spending in the 
Province seventy-five days. 

A Yamassee chief, Pedro Christano, applied to Governor Monteana for 
permission to attack the Georgians on their retreat through the narrows of 
Fort George and Talbot Islands. But the governor thought it not prudent 
to make the attack until the enemy should be dispersed over the frontier 
settlements. He then furnished Christano with arms and ammunition, and 
supported him in several bloody incursions, until all the settlements of the 
English were broken up, as far as St. Simond's Island. 



188 HISTORY. 

1748. A treaty being concluded between Spain and England, the war 
ceased. But the English immediately pushed their settlements 
south as far as the mouth of the Santilla River. Notice was immediately 
sent to Governor Monteano, but he paid no attention to the subject. 
1755. This year Don Alonzo Fernandez de Heireda was appointed 
commandant of the Fort at St. Augustine. He ordered Captain 
Don Leo Joseph de Leon, with a company of mounted dragoons to go and 
recover the invaded territory. On the first summons, the English agreed 
to retire immediately, and being satisfied with their apparent willingness, 
De Leon returned. But the English kept their ground. The ambassador 
of Spain soon after obtained an order from the Court of London command- 
ing these intruders to withdraw, but the order was never enforced. 
1763. This year the King of Spain ceded Florida to Great Britain. 
There was but six hundred inhabitants in the Province, besides the 
regular troops, and they were very poor. Nearly all of them removed to 
Cuba, and left the country to be parcelled out among the half pay officers 
and disbanded soldiers, who had served in the American campaigns. Emi- 
grants also arrived from Great Britain and from many other parts of Europe. 
Several of the English nobility settled plantations at Hillsborough River, 
on the St. John's River, and on Amelia Island. A few also settled atPen- 
sacola. 

Lord Rolle obtained a grant of land on the St. John's, which he named 
Charlotia. To this p!ace he transported nearly three hundred miserable 
females, who were picked up about the purlieus of London. His object 
was to reform them, and make of them good members of society. They 

all died in a few years. 
1767. Doct. Turnbull tried a different speculation. He sailed to the 
Peloponesus, and for the sum of four hundred pounds sterling, obtain- 
ed permission from the Governor of Modon, to convey to Florida, a large 
number of Greek families. In 1767, he arrived with one small vessel, and 
took as many Greeks as he could obtain. On his way back from Modon, 
he put in at the islands of Corsica, and Minorca, and recruited his number of 
settlers to fifteen hundred. He agreed to carry them free of expense, to 
find them in good provisions and clothing, and at the end of three years, 
to give fifty acres of land to each head of families, and twenty-five acres to 
each child. If they were dissatisfied, in six months, he agreed to send 
them back. They had a long voyage, of four months ; many of the old 
people died. Twenty-nine died in one vessel. They arrived in the fall 
season. Sixty thousand acres of land, were granted them by the Governor 
of Florida. They built huts of palmetto, to shelter them through the win- 
ter, and in the spring they planted provisions. Their settlement was named 



HISTORY. 189 

New Smyrna. It was about four miles west of Musquito Inlet, and seventy- 
four miles south of St. Augustine. After a sufficient quantity of provisions 
were raised, Turnbull, turned his attention to indigo. In five years, they 
had nearly three thousand acres of good land, highly improved, and in one 
year, the nett value of the indigo crop, amounted to three thousand one 
hundred and seventy-four dollars. Turnbull, however, did not fulfill his 
agreements, with these people, his avarice seemed to increase with his 
prosperity. He selected a few Italians, and made them overseers and dri- 
vers. The rest, men, women, and children, were reduced to the most abject 
slavery. Tasks were assigned them, as large as they could possibly per- 
form during the week. The food of the laborers, was seven quarts of corn 
per week, for the whites, and ten quarts a week, for the negroes, a number 
of which had been placed on the settlement ; to the sick, three and a half 
quarts were allowed. 

Most of the Minorcans, and Corsicans, had brought a good stock of 
clothing with them ; when that was worn out, they were furnished with a 
suit of osnaburgs, each year. One blanket, and one pair of shoes, for the 
whole term of service were given to the men, but the women had no skoe.s, 
although many of them had been accustomed to live in affluence, in their 
own country. In this state of slavery, was this people kept for nine years. 
The tyranny exercised over them, was not exceeded, by the savage Spaniards 
of St. Domingo. The three last years, no clothing was given them at all, 
but they were permitted to buy it at a public store, and the debt thus incur- 
red, was assigned as a reason for their confinement. On the most trifling 
occasions, they were beatenexcessively, and the negroes were usually chosen 
as the instruments of diabolical cruelty. They were often compelled to beat 
and lacerate those w r ho had not performed their tasks, till they died. After 
scourging the skin from their backs, they were sometimes left naked, tied to 
a tree all night, for the musquitoes to suck their blood. These usually 
swelled up ready to burst, with their tortures. If induced by despair to run 
away, they were stopped, and taken up by the negroes on the neighboring 
plantations, who were paid for returning them. Some wandered off, and 
died in the forests. At the end of nine years, six hundred only were left, of 

fifteen hundred and their natural increase. 
1776. Some time in the summer of 1776, several English gentlemen 

from St. Augustine, on an excursion down the coast, called at New 
Smyrna, to see the improvements, especially a very large stone building, 
that was commenced for a mansion house. In the course of conversation, 
some of them made the remark, that if the people knew their rights, they 
would not suffer under such slavery. This was remarked by an intelligent 
boy, who told it to his mother. The old lady summoned a counsel of her 
friends in the night, and they devised a plan to gain more intelligence. 



190 HISTORY. 

Three of them were to ask for a long task, in order to gain time to go 
down the coast, to catch turtle. This was granted them, as a special fa- 
vor. They were assisted in finishing their task, by their fellow slaves. 
They then set off for St. Augustine, by the coast, and had to swim the 
Matanzas. They arrived safely, and the first man they met, was Mr. 
Younge, the Attorney general of the province. They made known to him 
their business, and he promised to protect them. A change of Governors 
had lately taken place ; Governor Grant, had been superceded by Governor 
Tonyn, Grant was supposed to have been connected with Turnbull, in the 
slavery of the Minorcans, Greeks, &c. Tonyn, on the contrary, had it in 
his power, to render himself popular, by doing an act of justice, to these long 
injured people. 

The envoys relumed, with the glad tidings that their chains where bro- 
ken, and that protection awaited them. Turnbull was absent, but they 
feared the overseers, whose cruelty, they dreaded. They met in secret, 
and chose for their leader, a Mr. Pallicier, who was head carpenter of the 
Mansion House. The women and children, with the old men, were placed 
in the centre, and the stoutest men armed with w r ooden spears, were placed 
in front, and rear. In this order, they set off like the children of Israel, 
from a place that had proved an Egypt to them. So secretly had they con- 
ducted the transaction, that they had proceeded some miles, before the over- 
seers discovered that the place was deserted. Some of them were well 
pleased, and joined them. Others informed the tyrant, who was at some 
distance from the place. He rode after the fugitives, and overtook themj 
before they reached St. Augustine, and used every exertion to persuade 
them to return, but in vain. 

On the third day, they reached St. Augustine, where provisions were 
served out to them, by order of the Governor. Their case was tried before 
the Judges, where they were honestly defended by their friend, the Attorney 
General. Turnbull could show no cause for detaining them, and their 
freedom was fully established. Lands were offered to them, at New 
Smyrna, but they suspected some trick was on foot, to get them into Tun> 
bull's hands, and besides, they detested the place, where they had suffered 
so much. Lands were therefore assigned them, in the north part of the 
city, where they have built houses, and cultivated their gardens to this day. 
Some by industry, have acquired large estates ; they at this time, form a 

respectable part of the population of the city. 
1781. This year Don Galvez, Governor of Louisiana, and Admiral Sa- 
lano entered west Florida, and laid siege to Pensacola. The place 
was strongly fortified, and General Campbell, at the head of a thousand 
regular troops, defended the place, for a long time, with great bravery. 
Fort St. Michael commands the town, and harbor. The officer of the day ob- 



HISTORY. 191 

serving that the gate of the principal Magazine was often opened, opposite the 
Spanish camp ; ordered it to be closed, and anolher opened on the opposite 
side. While some fixed ammunition was taking out, to serve the ordnance, 
a bomb struck the eastern glacis, and rebounding back, it entered this back 
gate, exploded, and blew up the magazine. The principal redoubt was 
carried away, and several lives were lost. Count Galvez availed himself 
of this misfortune, and immediately occupied the place. Dispositions were 
now made, to take fort St. Bernard, by assault. General Campbell, aware 
that the place could not be defended, entered into a capitulation. He ob- 
tained the most honorable conditions, and surrendered the city. 

The Floridas had been the most important acquisition which the English 
had obtained by the French war. These provinces rounded off their em- 
pire in America. But an attempt to oppress their colonies, was punished 

by the loss of those colonies and the Floridas besides. 
1763. Very great improvements were made by the English, during the 
twenty years they held possession of the country. They encourag- 
ed agriculture, in the east and west, by offering bounties on Indigo. Similar 
bounties were shortly after, given for the increase of naval stores. The 
country became cultivated to a great extent. They had commenced the cul- 
ture of the sugar cane, and the manufacture of sugar and rum in East 
Florida, was nearly as far advanced as it is at present. Some of the iron 
machinery, of their sugar works, have been dug out of the ground, be- 
low Tomoko, and again appropriated to the purpose, for which it was origin- 
ally intended. Some of the old boilers had wild orange trees of consider- 
able size growing in them. 

The re-cession of the country to Spain operated as a blight over the whole 
land. The English population removed, as the Spaniards had done before 
enmasse ; abandoning their gardens, fields, villages and towns. They 
sought shelter among the islands of the West Indies, and many from com- 
petency and ease were reduced to penury and want. A military govern- 
ment succeeded. A sparse population who barely existed on their pay, 
wholly inattentive to improvements of any kind. Their gardens, fences, 
fields and houses were suffered to grow up, with briars, or rot down, with 
time, or were burned up for fuel. In the space of forty years, the once 
flourishing settlements of Florida, dwindled down to two dirty towns, 
which, with all their dependencies, could not muster six thousand inhabit- 
ants. 

The persevering Minorcans and Greeks were an exception ; they continu- 
ed to fish, make canoes and cultivate their gardens, and still do the same, 

without any perceptible change. 
1792. Considerable disturbance was this year occasioned by an English- 
man named Bowles. He sailed from New Providence in a schoon- 



192 HISTORY. 

er with about sixty adherents. They landed on the Mnsquito coast, and pro- 
ceeded to attack a large Indian store, situate on the west bank of the river St. 
Johns, called Hamblys store. In order to facilitate the expedition, Bowles 
took with him from the vessel several iron swivels, but his progress had 
been observed, by the retainers of the house of Penton and Lesley, proprie- 
tors of the trading house, and they anticipated the attack of the marauders, 
by garrisoning the store with fifty Spanish troops and a large number of their 
own negroes. 

Finding the place too strong, Bowles sought for subsistence at Cuscowil- 
la, a Seminole town commanded by Payne, a very intelligent Indian. His 
men being broken down by fatigue and hunger, deserted him. Finding that 
Payne would not protect him, he fled to the Creek nation. There he mar- 
ried the daughter of Perryman, an intelligent Indian, and there he was join- 
ed by Daniel M'Girty, a white subject of East Florida. They made the 
Creeks believe, that the stores establised by Panton Lesley and co., had 
been sent by the English, as gifts to the Indians, and that they had a good 
right to take and make use of them. Kenhutry, Little Prince and several 
other chiefs were induced to join him. They established their head quarters 
at Mickasookie old town. While here, a small vessel arrived at Appalache, 
with goods for Bowles ; with these he made liberal presents to the Indians ; 
whom he told, that they were part, of the same goods, that the English 
had sent to Panton for their use. The house of John Forbes and co. had 
much influence with the Seminoles, they sent a Mr. Forest, to collect a 
body of Indians, to take Bowles prisoner. Kennard, Payne, Bowlegs and 
White King, with seven hundred Seminoles joined him, and they proceeded 
with the expedition, to Mickasookie. But M'Girty was on the scout, and 
gave notice to Bowles, who escaped to Oclockony River and hid himself. 

When the Seminoles arrived, the Creeks professed to give up all hostile 
views, and offered to go to St. Marks and make a treaty. The proposal 
was acceded to ; they went to St. Marks, and under the direction of the 
commandant, they entered into a treaty to retire home in a peaceable man- 
ner. The Seminoles dispersed. Perryman and Kenhutry returned to 
Mickasookie, where they were met by Bowles. He immediately led them 
to the great store on Wakully which they took, carried off the goods, and 
destroyed the store. A scene of drunkenness and confusion succeeded for 
several days. At length an armed schooner called the Sheerwater, arrived 
at the fort ; she was deeply laden with dry goods for the store. Bowles 
had immediate notice of it. He placed a large number of Creeks in am- 
bush, where the river was very narrow, and when the schooner entered 
the river, the Indians rose and took the vessel by surprise. During all 
these proceedings Bowles professed great friendship for the Spaniards. 



HISTORY. 193 

But when he found that the garrison at the fort of St. Marks were off their 
guard, he made a sudden assault and took the place. Here he rioted for 
several weeks with his Indians, until Gov. O'Neil arrived from Pensacola, 
with a detachment of Spanish soldiers and retook the fort. He found 
Bowles and all his Indians drunk and happy. He drove them off, but 
punished none of them. Orders were, however, sent to take Bowles ; he 
fled to the hickory ground in the Creek nation, where a reward being offer- 
ed, the Indians gave him up. He was conveyed in chains to Cuba, and 
confined in the Moro Castle, where he is said to have died. 

181 1. In January, iMr. Monroe, Secretary of State of the United States, 
wrote to Gen. George Matthews and Col. John McKee, informing 

them that he had appointed them Commissioners to carry into effect certain 
provisions of a late act of Congress, relating to the provinces of Florida. 
By this commission they were instructed to repair as privately as possible, 
to Folch, Governor of Pensacola, in the first place, and to accept from him 
a voluntary cession of the province, if he should deliver it up. If he 
would not, " should there be room to entertain a suspicion, that a design 
existed in any other power, to occupy the provinces," the Commissioners 
were then directed to occupy them by force, if necessary. They were 
also invested with discretionary powers to arrange the subjects of debts, 
land titles, offices, and laws : — to remove the Spanish troops, to pay money, 
etc. The conduct they were to pursue in regard to East Florida, " was 
to be regulated by the dictates of their own judgment," always recurring 
to the above instructions as the paramount rule of their conduct. All 
ordnance and military stores were to be held as Spanish property, to be 
accounted for by the United States. If the governors should insist on a 
re-delivery of the provinces at a future day, the Commissioners were di- 
rected to stipulate accordingly. 

In pursuance of these instructions, the Commissioners proceeded to Pen- 
sacola and St. Augustine, and made these propositions to the Spanish gov- 
ernors, but they refused to surrender the provinces. By this time, however, 
an idea had been generally circulated through Georgia and Florida, that 
the United States intended to occupy the provinces at any rate. It is said 
that Gen. Matthews and Mr. Mcintosh gave currency to the idea. 

1812. In the month of March, a large collection of Georgians and Flo- 
ridians, with all the wood-choppers and boatmen in the neigh- 
borhood of St. Marys, met at the dwelling-house of Col. Ashley and or- 
ganised a provisional government, and chose John Houston Mcintosh, 
Esq., Director. He appointed Col. Ashley commandant of the troops. 
Boats were then collected to convey them to Fernandina, a town on the 
Spanish shore. Here nine American gun-boats, under the command of 

25 



194 HISTORY. 

Commodore Campbell, formed a line in the harbor and brought their guns 
to bear on the fort. A flag was then sent to Don Jose Lopez, who com- 
manded the fort and the Island of Amelia, demanding of him ihe surrend- 
er of the place. He entered into a capi'ulation, a copy of which here 
follows : — 

" Articles of Capitulation, made and entered into between Don Justo 
Lopez, Commandant of Amelia Island, in the Province of East Florida, 
part of the dominions of his C. M. Ferdinand VII, on the one part ; and 
John H. Mcintosh, Esq. commissioner, named, and duly authorised by 
the Patriots of the district, of the Province, Wing between the Rivers St. 
John's, and St. Mary's, including the islands of the same, on the other 
part, viz : 

1. In consequence of superior forces, all communications and other re- 
scources cut off from St. Augustine, being impossible to defend the port and 
town of Femandina ; Don Justo Lopez, agrees to surrender the said port, 
and town, to the forces of the Patriots, with all the arms, public provisions, 
money, &c, that are in his possession, and all the duties owing to Govern- 
ment. 

" 2. The Commandant and troops, shall march out with the honors of 
war, and after laying down their arms, shall receive their parole not to take 
up arms against the Patriots, during the present contest. 

" 3. Individuals who are considered bona fide residents, who have grants, 
or just claims to obtain lands, or lumber by memorial, or evidence, or pur- 
chase, shall have them fully guaranteed, and in case of memorial, having 
complied, or not, with the conditions specified. 

" 4. The property of persons, of every description, shall be considered 
sacred, and neither examined, or touched, but remain, and be used in the 
same manner, as before the capitulation. 

" 5. The island, twenty-four hours after the capitulation, shall be ceded 
to the United States of America, under the express condition, that the port 
of Femandina, shall not be subject to any of the restrictions in commerce, 
which at present exists in the United States ; but shall be open as hereto- 
fore, to British, and other vessels, and produce, on paying the lawful ton- 
nage, and import duties ; and in case of actual war between the United 
States and Great Britain, the port of Femandina, shall be open to British 
merchant vessels, and produce, and considered a free port, until the first of 
May, 1813. 

" 6 The inhabitants, who have been bona fide residents of the district, 
and have had permission to cut lumber, shall have the same continued until 
the first of May, 1813, to the exclusion of others, and exactly as heietofore. 



HISTORY. 195 

" 7. All vessels of every description shall be protected, and clearances 
given to any port, as before, (excepting to the coast of Africa,) as well as 
all vessels of every description, arriving before the first of May, 1813, which 
have cleared from a Spanish pert, three months before the capitulation, and 
being the property of Spanish subjects of this Island. 

" 8. All British, and other merchandise, which has been regularly enter- 
ed, according to the laws and regulations of the Spanish Government, shall 
be exported from here, and admitted in the ports of the United States free of 
duties, until the first of May, 1813 ; and all vessels now owned by Spanish 
subjects, of this island, shall have the right, and receive registers in the 
same manner as American vessels. 

" 9. The inhabitants of this island who wish to remove shall have 
twelve months time to sell their property, or remove it, as may be most 
agreeable, without molestation, and in case of war between the United 
States and Spain, in said time, said inhabitants shall be allowed to appoint 
agents to sell their property. 

Fernandina, at 4 o'clock P. M. 17th March, 1812. 
Signed, 
George Atkinson, Justo Lopez, 

George I. F. Clarke, John H. Mcintosh. 

Charles W. Clarke, 
Archibald Clarke. 

Fernandina is, at this time, an inconsiderable village, on the North West 
point cf Amelia Island. During the memorable embargo, this place was a 
resort, for vessels of all nations, wishing to procure American productions, 
provisions, and lumber, in particular. At the lime of this revolution, the 
town contained about six hundred inhabitants, and was rapidly increasing. 
Smuggling was carried on to a great extent, and the slave trade was fostered, 
by speculators in human flesh, from all quarters. There being five fathoms 
on the bar of St. Mary's, at high water, it affords greater facilities for en- 
trance, than any inlet on the coast ; and the harbor before the town, is 
capacious and safe. 

The day after the capitulation, Lieut. Ridgely was appointed by the di- 
rector, to take command of the place, and Col. Ashley, with three hundred 
men, were marched towards St. Augustine, by the Cowford, now Jackson- 
ville. From this place, a detachment was sent to the Laurel Grove, to 
seize Zephaniah Kingsley, Esq. one of the most able planters in Florida. 
When brought to head quarters, he was offered his liberty and protection, 
on condition of joining the Patriots, and was threatened in case of noncom- 
pliance, with imprisonment, and confiscation of his goods. He joined them, 



196 HISTORY. a 

and was a distinguished partizan, until the whole revolution was checked 
by the government of the United States. Ashley then proceeded to Fort 
Mosa, within two miles of St. Augustine ; where he was reinforced by 
Col. Smith, with one hundred American regular troops. Here the Patriots 
became dissatisfied with Col. Ashley, and deposed him, and elected William 
Craig - , Esq. a planter, and one of the Spanish judges, as commander. 
Ashley retired with his staff, carrying with him, a large number of horses, 
that had been collected from the plantations in Florida. 

About the middle of June, Estrada, Governor of East Florida, pr. inte- 
rim, fitted up a schooner, with one twenty-four pound, and two twelve 
pound cannon, and two gun boats, to attack Fort Mosa. The schooner 
came to anchor before the fort, and began firing, before the gun boats could 
arrive, little execution was done for some time ; at length, a ball passed 
through the old fort. The Patriots having no cannon, were unable to de- 
fend themselves, and retreated to Four Mile Creek, where they encamped. 
In a short time, Craig removed to the St. John's River, and established a 
camp, called New Hope. 

Here a deputation of the Seminole Indians arrived, and offered their ser- 
vices to the director. They were met in council, by General Mathews, 
Mcintosh, and Kingsley, who advised them to remain peaceably in their 
towns, and not to interfere with the quarrels of white men. The young 
warriors, headed by Bowlegs, took this as an insult, and presented them- 
selves before the Governor of Florida, who received them with open arms, 
and supplied them with arms and ammunition. They immediately planned 
an attack, to sweep the settlements on St. John's River, and then to cross 
the St. Marys, and carry fire and sword into the heart of Georgia. 

The invasion of Florida, under the direction of General Mathews, an ac- 
credited Agent of the American Government, excited the attention of the 
Spanish and British Ministers, and strong remonstrances were made to our 
Government, by Don Onis, and Mr. Foster. In consequence of which, 
General Mathews received from Mr. Monroe, a letter, stating that the 
President disapproved of the invasion of Florida ; inasmuch as neither of 
the contingencies had occurred, which were to precede all offensive mea- 
sures. His conduct was attributed to a laudable, but mistaken zeal, for the 
public welfare. His commission was superseded by the appointment of 
Mr. Mitchel, Governor of Georgia. Who was instructed " to direct his ef- 
forts, in the first instance, to the restoration of that state of things in the pro- 
vince, which existed before the late transactions." To communicate with 
the Governor of East Florida, and to act in harmony with him, in the at- 
tainment of it. But inasmuch as the people, who acted under General 
Mathews, relied on the countenance and support, of the United States, Go- 



HISTORY. 197 

vernor Mitchel was directed not to expose them, to the resentment, of the 
Spanish authorities, but to require full assurance and satisfaction of their 
safety : and to apprize all the parties concerned, of his full reliance on it. 
Governor Mitchel was also requested to use the greatest delicacy towards 
General Mathews, who, the Secretary observes, " is held in high estimation 
by the Government, for his gallant, and meritorious services, during the 
American revolution, and for his patriotic services since that time." Ge- 
neral Mathews withdrew from Florida, and Governor Mitchel, on the 9th 
of May, wrote to Governor Estrada, in conformity with his instructions. 
While these commmunications were passing, Captain Williams of the Ma- 
rines, kept open a communication between Col. Smith, at Four Mile Creek, 
and Colonel Craig, at Camp Hope, 

In the meantime, a company of negroes was collected in St. Augustine, 
headed by a free black, called Prince. They were sent to form an ambus- 
cade in an impervious thicket, called Twelve Mile Swamp, through which 
the convoy under the command of Captain Williams had to pass. It was 
on the 12th of May, about 8 o'clock in the evening, that the wagons enter- 
ed the swamp. They were escorted by Captain Williams, attended by 
Captain Fort, of the Milledgeville volunteers, a non-commissioned officer 
and nineteen privates, besides the drivers. They had but just entered the 
swamp, when a deadly fire was poured in upon the escort, some of the 
horses being killed, the wagons blocked up the passage. The non-commis- 
sioned officer was killed, both Captains were wounded, Williams mortally, 
he was shot in eight places ; six privates were wounded. On the second 
discharge of the regulars, a charge was ordered, but the negroes fled into 
the woods. After this affair, Governor Mitchell ceased to communicate 
with Estrada. He wrote to the Secretary of State requesting that a 
reinforcement might be sent, that St. Augustine might be attacked, and 
shewed no disposition to withdraw the troops from Florida. 

On the 11th of June, Governor Kintelan wrote to Governor Mitchell, stat- 
ing that if Colonel Smith did not remove from Four Mile Creek within 
eleven days, he should be obliged to resort to disagreeable measures to 
compel him. Mitchel answered that the arrangements for the withdrawing 
the troops were making, but were stopped by the wanton attack on 
Williams ; that now he should await further orders from the government. 
The President finding that Congress would not support him in the occupa- 
tion of Florida, determined to abandon it. Gov. Mitchell was, therefore, 
very politely superseded by General Pinckney about the middle of 
October. 

About the 20th of September Col. Smith removed his camp to Davis' 
Creek, twenty miles north of St. Augustine ; the troop* had dwindled to two 



198 HISTORY. 

hundred and seventy, and many were sick, all of them nearly naked. 
The Seminoles, under Bowlegs, were ravaging the country, burning houses 
and orange groves, and driving off slaves and cattle from every quarter. 
Certain information was received that Payne, the civil chief, finding it im- 
possible to check the young warriors, who called him an old woman, for 
withholding them so long at bay, had finally taken command of one party, 
which was destined to sweep the St. John's settlements and meet Bowlegs 
at the head of another party in Georgia. Col. Nunen, Inspector General 
of Georgia, was a volunteer among the Georgia troops in Florida. He 
solicited permission to march at the head of a party of volunteers and attack 
the Seminoles in their towns. Permission was granted him, though with 
considerable hesitation, as it weakened the posts at Davis' Creek and New 
Hope. One hundred and ten men, many of whom had been discharged, 
volunteered their services in this expedition. About twenty of them were 
marines from Captain Williams' company, the balance were from Hum- 
phrey's riflemen and Fort's infantry. They rendezvoused at Laurel Grove, 
the seat of Mr. Kingsley, who sent them in his bcais to Judge Facio. 
Here they received an order to join Col. Smith at Four Mile Creek, from 
thence they accompanied the party to Davis' Creek, and were then again 
sent to New Switzerland, the seat of Judge Facio. They were marched 
the next day to Picolata, and crossed the river. In three days they arrived 
within seven miles of Payne's Town, situate near the great Allachua Savan- 
na ; here they were met by a party of Seminoles, consisting of one hun- 
dred and fifty, headed by Payne and Bowlegs, who had just set out on their 
intended war expedition. It was about twelve o'clock. Col. Nunen im- 
mediately formed his little army to receive the Indians. Capt. Humphreys, 
with the marines, was placed on the right. Captain Fort, of the infantry, 
on the left, and Lieutenants Reed and Broadnax formed the centre with 
twenty-five choice men. Two fallen pines shielded the centre in a partial 
manner against the enemies' fire. The right was defended by a pond, and 
the left by the head of a swamp. 

Payne and Bowlegs led the principal part of their Indians from a swamp, 
and very gallantly formed them in two columns, in full view of the Ameri- 
cans, and each took the command of a column. Payne was conspicuously 
mounted, on a white horse, and displayed much judgment during the ac- 
tion. The Indians commenced firing from the swamp, in rear of their 
main body. A smart firing continued about two hours, to very little effect. 
Nunen finding that the Indians kept close to their swamp, ordered a hasty 
retreat. The Indians pursued them with great joy and some confusion, 
when Nunen charged suddenly upon them ; killed a great number and 
Payne was himself mortally wounded. In a few minutes there was not 



HISTORV. 199 

an Indian to be seen. The Americans then began cutting pine trees, for 
the purpose of a fort; but half an hour before sunset, the In lians under 
Bowlegs, returned with a large reinforcement. They rushed from the 
swamp and charged within one hundred yards of the American line. They 
were received with a cool and incessant fire, which continued with little in- 
termission, till about nine o'clock at night. It was very dark, each party 
fired at the flashes of their opponents' guns. Five times, the Indians at- 
tempted to force the centre, approaching within twenty paces yelling like 
devils, but Reed and Broadnax kept their men behind the breast work, and 
pouted in such deadly discharges of buck shot, that the Indians finally re- 
tired, carrying off all their dead and wounded, except six, which they proba- 
bly could not find. Nunen had but one man killed, he received a ball in his 
forehead, while peeping over the log. The men although extremely fa- 
tigued, fixed up their logs in form of a pen, and encamped in it. The Indians 
besieged them on all sides, and kept them eight days in that situation, killing 
all the horses except one; that the Georgians killed themselves and eat him, 
having destroyed all their provisions. 

A straggling fire was occasionally heard, and some ineffectual attempts 
were made, by the Indians, to cut off small foraging parties. On the third 
evening after the battle, eight men under the command of Lieut. Reed, were 
detailed to scour the woods, for provisions. They fortunately killed a large 
bull, about twelve miles north of the fort, and conveyed it in, without moles- 
tation. In the night of the eighth day of the seige, Nunen ordered a retreat, 
despairing of receiving relief. Eight wounded men were placed on litters, 
and the fort was silently evacuated, while the tents were left standing. At 
day light, they had proceeded about six miles. The Col. being sick, they 
halted till afternoon. Here Captain Humphreys made an exertion, to draw 
oft' the troops and leave the Col. and the wounded men behind, but the 
troops would not consent. About three o'clock, they again proceeded to- 
wards Picolata. The Indians had discovered them, and fifty of the best 
warriors, under the young Governor, were placed in ambush in a hammock, 
beside the trail, where the troops had to pass. They had proceeded about 
three miles, when the Indians rose upon them. At the first fire, three men 
fell, two were killed outright, and the other mortally wounded. Nunen or- 
dered a sudden charge, which effectually dispersed the Indians. They 
were seen no more. The young Governor was killed. The retreat was 
continued eight miles farther, although the troops were almost famished. 
They encamped on a ridge of ground between two ponds, where a breast- 
work was hastily thrown up. An express was sent forward to procure pro- 
visions, and foraging parties sent to a short distance to hunt. Two 
alligator* were killed and eaten. On the fourth day, it was determined to 



200 HISTORY. 

conceal the wounded men in a hammock, for the troops had not strength to 
carry them, while they should attempt to reach the settlement. This step 
was rendered unnecessary by the arrival of sixteen horsemen with provis- 
ions. The wounded men were mounted, and the detachment arrived in two 
days at Picolata with seventy-five men. 

During the first battle, seven men, including the quarter master, surgeon 
and rear sentinel, deserted, and took away with them the best horses. 
They reported that the whole detachment was cut off. Mr. Kingsley 
raised twenty-seven men and sent them to pick up any stragglers they 
might find, and to collect intelligence. This party reached the battle 
ground the night of the retreat. Seeing the tents unmolested, they enter- 
ed the fort, but were surprised to find no occupants ; they concluded that 
the garrison was killed, and therefore retreated, as fast as possible, the same 
path they came. 

Nunen's expedition deranged the plans of the Seminoles, altogether. 
The loss of Payne was a serious misfortune to them. They were never 
successful afterwards. They kept small parties constantly abroad, taking 
cattle and horses, as well as negroes, from the patriots. Mr. Kingsley's 
plantation was besieged for nine months ; about forty negroes and all his 
cattle were stolen. These injuries were again retaliated on the loyalists ; 
they, also, took every species of property they could carry off, and burnt 
and destroyed houses, fruit trees, and crops of every description. East 
Florida became a scene of universal desolation, from which she has never 
yet recovered. 

1813. In the month of May, the American troops were withdrawn 
from Florida, and Fernandina was delivered to the Spanish au- 
thorities. At the same time a general pardon was proclaimed to all per- 
sons concerned in the insurrection. 

1814. In the month of August, Col. Nichols brought into the bay of 
Pensacola, a British fleet, from which he manned the forts of Bar- 
rancas and St. Michael with troops, and hoisted the British flag. On the 
31st, he published a proclamation, dated at "Head Quarters, Pensacola," 
in which he called the people of Louisiana and Kentucky to join his stan- 
dard, and release themselves from the slavish yoke of the United States. 
The Indians were abundantly furnished with arms and ammunition, and 
commissioned to butcher the defenceless inhabitants of the frontier states ; 
ten dollars a-piece were offered for the scalps of men, women, or children. 

On the 6th of November, General Jackson, with five thousand Tennessee 
militia, and a considerable Indian force, arrived in the neighborhood of 
Pensacola, and sent Major Pierre with a flag, to inform governor Manre- 
quez of the object of his visit. On approaching one of the fortifications, the 



HISTORY. 201 

flag was fired on by the cannon of the fort, on which the major returned. 
General Jackson, with the adjutant-general and a small escort, immediate- 
ly reconnoitered the fort, and found it manned with British and Spanish sol« 
diers. He returned, encamped for the night, and prepared to carry the 
town by storm in the morning. On the morning of the 7th, he marched 
with the regulars of the third, thirty-ninth, and forty-fourth infantry, part of 
General Coffee's brigade, the Mississippi dragoons, part of the West Ten- 
nessee regiment, commanded by lieutenant-colonel Hammond, and part of 
the Chactaws, commanded by Major Blue of the thirty-ninth, and Major 
Kennedy of the Mississippi troops. Jackson had encpamed on the north side 
of the town, on the Blakely road, which passed by the forts St. Bernard 
and St. Michael. 

The British naturally supposed that the attack would be made 
1814. from that quarter, and were prepared to rake the road with their 
Nov. 14. batteries ; to improve this idea, a part of the mounted men were 
ordered to show themselves in that direction, while the army was 
marched past the rear of the forts, to the east of the town, undiscovered, 
till within a mile of the streets. They were now fully exposed to Fort 
St. Michael on the right, and seven armed vessels on the left : several 
block-houses and batteries of cannon defended the streets. They however 
marched into the town with perfect firmness, and with trifling loss. As the 
centre column, composed of the regulars, entered, a battery of two cannon 
was opened upon it, with ball and grape, and a shower of musketry from 
the houses and fences. They had made but three fires, when the battery 
was stormed by captain Laval, who was severely wounded, but afterwards 
recovered. The fire of the regulars soon silenced the musketry of the Eng- 
lish. Governor Manriquez met the troops in the streets, and begged Co- 
lonels Williamson and Smith, the first officers he met, to show mercy to 
the town ; which request, by orders of the general, was granted, on an 
unconditional surrender of the town and forts. This was agreed to ; and 
the citizens, with their property, were protected : the fort St. Michael was 
withheld till twelve o'clock at night. On the morning of the 8th, the fort 
of Barrancas was blown up with a tremendous explosion, all the cannon 
spiked except two, and every combustible matter burnt to ashes. This act 
enabled Nichols to escape from the harbor with his fleet. Captain Wood- 
bine and the Red Sticks were conveyed by Nichols to the Appalachicola 
River, where a strong fort was built, about twenty-five miles above the 
mouth, and manned with three hundred troops, to which there was an im- 
mediate resort of Indians and runaway negroes. A small fort was also 
built, about two miles below the junction of the Chattahoochee and Flint 
Rivers, and one mile south of the old Appalachicola fort. 

26 



202 HISTORY. 

The principal fortifications of the harbor being destroyed at Pensaeola, 
General Jackson evacuated the town, after holding possession only two 
days. Major Blue was despatched, with a thousand mounted men, against 
the forts on the Appalachicola, while the General proceeded to the defence 
of New-Orleans. 

The Spaniards immediately commenced rebuilding the fortifications at 
Barrancas, in which Nichols proffered his assistance, but the governor an- 
swered hirn, that when he needed any assistance, he would call on his 
friend General Jackson. The conduct of the General appears to have 
been satisfactory to the Spaniards. At parting, he noiified them, if 
any injuries had been done to private property, to draw on him for pay- 
ment : no demands were made ; and although many thousand dollars da- 
mages were in 1825 proven to have been suffered, yet General Jackson 
always insisted, that five hundred dollars of damage had not been susiained. 

About the first of August, 1816, Colonel Clinch received advice from 
General Gaines, that he had ordered a supply of provisions, two eighteen 
pounders, a five-inch howitzer, and a quantity of ordnance stores, to ascend 
the Appalachicola River to Camp Crawford ; and in case any opposition 
should be made by the negro fort, he was instructed to reduce it. He im- 
mediately despatched Laforka, an Indian chief, to the bay, for intelligence. 
He returned on the 15th, with news of the arrival of Lieutenant Loomis in 
the bay, with two gun vessels, and two transports, laden with provisions, 
ordnance, stores, &c. On the 17th the Colonel descended the river with 
one hundred and sixteen chosen men, in two companies, the one command- 
ed by Major Muhlenberg, and the other by Captain Taylor. On the same 
evening, he was joined by Maj. M'Intosh, with one hundred and fifty Indians ; 
and the next day, by Captain Isaacs and Mad Tyger, with a large body of 
Indians, badly armed. The meeting was accidental : the Indians were on 
a long projected expedition against the negroes, with an intention of restor- 
ing them to their owners. A council was held, and an agreement entered 
into, respecting the campaign. Tne Indians were ordered to keep parties 
in advance, and secure every negro that could be found. On the 19th, 
they brought in a prisoner taken with a scalp, who said that the black 
commandant of the fort, and a Chactaw chief, with a party of men, had re- 
turned the day before to the fort from the bay, where they had taken a 
boat and killed several Americans. On the 20th, at two o'clock in the 
morning, Colonel Clinch arrived within cannon-shot of the fort, and landed 
behind a skirt of woods. Major M'Intosh was ordered to surround the fort 
with one-third of his men, and to keep up an irregular fire, while Laforka 
was sent to notify Lieutenant Loomis of the arrival of the troops. The 
enemy retired within the fort, and kept up a constant roar of artillery, 
which did no execution, except to frigthen the Indians. 



UISTORY. 203 

On the 23d, Lieutenant Loomis sent intelligence that he had ordered out 
a watering party, who were attacked by the negroes and Indians ; that a 
midshipman and two sailors were killed, one sailor taken, and one made his 
escape : he asked assistance to convoy up the boats. In the evening, the 
Indians demanded a surrender of the forts, but were treated with great con- 
tempt by Garqon, the commandant, and the negroes, who hoisted a red flag 
with the English jack over it. 

On the 24th, Lieutenant Wilson was ordered to descend the river with a 
party, to assist, in bringing up the boats. On the 26th, they arrived within 
four miles of the fort; and the Colonel went on board the gun-boat 149. 
After reconnoitering the river in company with the commander of the boat, 
he ordered Maj. Muhlenberg, and Captain Taylor to cross over to the west 
side of the river, with their companies, to erect a battery ; w T hile Lieutenant 
M. Garrick, with a party of men and the main body of Indians, were left 
to secure the rear. 

The battery was immediately commenced ; the vessels were ordered up, 
and the transport Similante was directed to be in readiness to land the artil- 
lery under cover of the night. At six in the morning, the two gun-boats 
sailed up in handsome stjle, and made fast near the battery. In a few min- 
utes after, they received a shot from a thirty-two pounder : it was immedi- 
ately returned in a gallant manner. On the fifth discharge, a Lot shot from 
gun-boat No. 154 en'ered the magazine, and blew up the fort — the explo- 
sion was awful, and the scene horrible beyond description. The fort con- 
tained about one hundred men, and two hundred womei: and children : not 
more than one sixth part were saved. The cries of the wounded, and the 
yells of the Indians, rendered the confusion most dreadful. The fort was 
situated on a beautiful high bluff, with a large creek below, and a swamp 
above, which rendered an approach with artillery extremely difficult. The 
parapet was fifteen feet high, and eighteen thick, and was defended by one 
thirty-two, three twenty-four's, two nine, and two six pounders, with an 
elegant 5£ inch howitzer. 

The property taken and destroyed, amounted to two hundred thousand 
dollars ; three thousand stands of arms, and six hundred barrels of powder 
were destroyed ; one magazine, containing one hundred and sixty-three bar- 
rels of powder, was saved by the victors. 

The negro force had been rapidly increasing for one or two years, from 
runaways : their fields extended fifty miles up the river. The Chactaw 
chief, and the negro commandant, named Ganjon, were put to death by the 
Indians. 

On the 30th, the ordnance and stores, were sent to Camp Crawford, in 
small boats. 



204 HISTORY. 

On the 1st of September, Colonel Clinch received notice that a large 
Seminole force was descending the river to attack him. He immediately 
placed himself in a position to receive them ; but they dispersed without 
making an attack, or even showing themselves to the American troops. 

The Seminole Indians, together with many vagabond Creeks, excited by 
Nichols and Woodbine, began, soon after the establishment at Appalachi- 
cola, to commit depredations on the frontiers of Georgia. General Gaines, 
stationed at fort Scott, demanded the murderers ; the Seminoles refused to 
give them up. 

A requisition w T as made on Georgia for five hundred more troops. The 
Seminole force was estimated at two thousand five hundred troops. The 
whole force under General Gaines, when joined by General Glasscock from 
Georgia, and six hundred Cherokees, amounted to two thousand five hun- 
dred. But the Georgia militia were raised for a term of two months only ; 
they were scarcely collected before they were dismissed, without having 
effected any essential service. 

In December, General Gaines despatched Major Twigs with two hundred 
and fifty men, to an Indian town, near Flint River, with orders to bring the 
chiefs to the fort. He arrived early in the morning, and was fired upon by 
the Indians ; he then returned their fire, and killed four warriors, and wound- 
ed many more. In the cabin of Neamathla, the chief, was found a British 
uniform, of scarlet cioth, with gold epauletts, and a certificate, signed by the 
secretary of Nichols, stating that Neamathla was a faithful British subject, 
&c. In a few days after, Colonel Arbukle, with three hundred men, was 
attacked about twelve miles from Fort Scott ; one of his men was killed, 
and three wounded. The Indians were defeated with a loss of ten killed. 
General Gaines despatched Lieutenant Scott, with fifty men, down the river, 
to meet and support Major Muhlenberg, who was ascending with two boats 
loaded with provisions. The Seminoles formed an ambuscade on the bank 
of the Appalachicola, about a mile below the junction of the Flint and Chat- 
tahoochee Rivers, at a place where the boats had to pass near the shore. On 
the first discharge, Lieutenant Scott and the best of his men fell : only six 
men escaped ; four of these were badly wounded : there were seven women 
on board, who shared the common fate of the soldiers. Lieutenant Scott 
had met Major Muhlenberg ; and had left twenty of his men, receiving as 
many sick, and the women, with some regimental clothing, and was return- 
ing to the fort. Two covered boats were sent down the river, under the 
command of Captain Clinch, to support Scott ; he passed the scene of ac- 
tion on the night after the engagement* On the 15th, the transports, under 
Major Muhlenberg, were attacked by an Indian force, amounting to twelve 
hundred, placed on both sides of the river. 



HISTORY. 205 

The attack was continued, with little intermission, to the 19th ; but no 
impression was made, as the boats were fortified with bulwarks, to secure 
the men from the enemy's shot. During the four days of the attack, two 
men were killed, and thirteen wounded. The boats finally arrived safely 
at Fort Scott. About this time, Captain M'Intosh was attacked in a small 
house, twelve miles from Fort Scott ; although surrounded several days, he 
defended himself without loss. The Indians at length retired with consid- 
erable loss, and the party was called into the. fort. 

On the 22d of January, 1818, General Jackson concluded a treaty with 
the Creek Indians ; and in February, the Creek warriors agreed to march, 
under their chief M'Intosh, to fight the Seminoles in Florida. 

About the 1st of March, General Jackson arrived at Fort Scott, and took 
command of the southern army. M'Intosh, with his Creeks, marched 
down the west bank of the Chattahoochee, with provisions for six days only. 
On the 12th of March, they arrived at Chaubulle Creek ; the waters being 
high, the Indians were obliged to leave their baggage and provisions, and 
swim a considerable distance, as the swamp was six miles wide. Hitche- 
taw town, commanded by the Red-ground King, Econchatti Micco, was sur- 
rounded ; but he escaped. The Indians were starving ; but here they ob 
tained food, and then pursued the fugitives ; came up with them, and took 
fifty-six men, and one hundred and eighty women and children : the rest es- 
caped. A quantity of cattle were taken. 

On the 26th, General Jackson left Fort Gadsden, and marched towards 
the Mickasookie towns, in East Florida. On the 14th, he met an abundant 
supply of provisions. His force consisted of five hundred regulars, one 
thousand militia, and eighteen hundred Indians. M'Intosh had not joined 
him with his seven hundred Creeks. On the 1st of April, the Mickasookie 
towns were destroyed, and the Fowl towns directly after. The Indians 
made little resistance. One thousand head of fine cattle, and many thousand 
bushels of corn, were taken. Jackson then proceeded to St. Mark's : the 
fort surrendered. Arbuthnot, the prophet Francis, and another Indian chief, 
were taken here. The two latter were immediately hanged. The fort was 
strongly fortified, and mounted twenty pieces of heavy ordnance. The 
garrison were sent to Pensacola. M'Intosh here took about one hundred 
Indian prisoners. 

At Mickasookie, three hundred scalps were found ; fifty of them were 
suspended over the square, on a painted war-pole. They were of every 
description ; men's, women's, and infants' : and most of them fresh. 

Early in April. General' Jackson marched for Suwanne, where about 
two thousand Indians and negroes were collected, acting under the orders 
of Arbuthnot, who had a schooner, loaded with arms, ammunition, and 



206 HISTORY. 

military stores, lying opposite the mouth of the Suwanne River, in Wa- 
kasasse Bay. On the approach of our troops a show of resistance was 
made ; but the main body of the Indians fled to St. Augustine. They 
were pursued some distance, when a camp of negroes was discovered in 
the night ; they fought desperately, and did not give way until eighty out 
of three hundred and forty, were killed. Three hundred Indian women 
and children, and a great many cattle, were taken prisoners ; and the In- 
dians killed many more, to prevent their falling into our hands. 

Arbuthnot, ignorant of the proximity of Jackson, approached the camp 
in a canoe, with two negroes and an Indian, in the evening, and was taken ; 
some boats were then sent down the river, or a raft, and the schooner seiz- 
ed. On the 1st of May a court martial was held on Arbuthnot and Am- 
biister, of which General Gaines was president. The charges were, ex- 
citing the Indians and negroes to commit murders, and supplying them 
with arms and ammunition ; and, secondly, acting as spies. They were 
both found guilty ; Arbuthnot was sentenced to be hung, and Ambrister to 
be shot. The sentence was immediately executed. Arbuthnot was the 
bosom friend of Woodbine ;* had been in every part of Florida, exciting 
the Indians and negroes ; and was the author of this war. Ambrister 
w r as, in appearance, a fine young man, about twenty-five years old, and 
was a lieutenant of engineers. He was sometimes called Warburton. He 
died like a weak woman. 

The Indian war being thus despatched, the General discharged the Ten- 
nessee volunteers ; and, with the regulars and friendly Indians, marched 
for Pensacola. 

On the 13th of April, M'tntosh met M'Q.ueen, with a party of Seminoles 
and fugitive Red Sticks, thirty miles east of Mickasookie ; a running fight 
took place ; M'Queen retreated, and M'lntosh pursued, about three hours ; 
killed thirty-seven, took one hundred women and children and six men pris- 
oners, and seven hundred head of cattle. M'lntosh then joined General 
Jackson at Suwanne. 

About the last of this month, Lieutenant Eddy was attacked by a party 
of Indians, while ascending the Escambia River with a boat loaded with 
provisions : he had one man killed, and two wounded. Major Young, at 
Fort Montgmery, put himself at the head of seventy-five mounted men, 
and pursued the murderers within one mile of Pensacola, were he encoun- 
tered them at the bayou Texar, killed thirty, and took seventy-four prison- 
ers. 

When Jackson had arrived in the neigborhood of Pensacola, and learned 

that the governor had refused permission for boats loaded with provisions, 
* Woodbine was lately murdered with his family, at Campeachy, by negroes — (1837.) 



HISTORY. 207 

bearing the American flag - , to ascend the Escambia, to furnish his troops — 
while they had issued provisions, arms and ammunition to the savages — he 
determined to enter the town again, and expel the treacherous Spaniards. 
The governor was apprised of his approach, and sent to warn him that he 
would be opposed by the whole Spanish force. The General said he 
would answer him the next morning, and continued his march. At nine 
o'clock the next morning he took possession without opposition. The 
governor had abandoned it, and taken shelter in the fort of Barran- 
cas. 

1818. Three days after, (May 28) the army was marched to the Bar- 
rancas, and a situation taken about four hundred yards west of the 

fort, where the men were set to work during the night, to erect a breast- 
work. In the morning it was discovered by the Spaniards, who commenced 
firing on it with two twenty-four pounders ; the firing was returned with a 
howitzer. At three o'clock a flag was sent by the fort, and a capitulation 
followed. The governor and garrison were sent to Havana. 

Captain Girt was sent with a company to scour the country between 
the Pensacola and Perdido Bays ; and Captain Bowles to perform a 
similar service about the Uche and Holmes' old fields, on the Chactaw- 
atchee. 

Colonel King was left in the command of Pensacola, while Gen. Jackson 
marched with the volunteers to Tennessee. 

A treaty of amity, settlement, and limits, was at length concluded 

1819. between His Catholic Majesty and the United States, by which the 
two Floridas and the adjacent islands were ceded to the latter. 

West Florida then extended westwardly to ihe Appalachicola River. The 
exchange of flags under this treaty took place on the 17th of June 1821, 
when General Jackson was appointed Governor of the Floridas, with very 
ample legislative, judicial and executive powers. 

Soon after the arrival of Governor Jackson at Pensacola, he received 
information that the Spanish ex-governor, Calleava, was about to send to 
Cuba certain papers and documents relating 10 the titles of lands, in viola- 
tion of the second article of the treaty of cession : he proceeded to make a 
demand of them. The ex-governor not complying in the manner and form 
that was thought proper, an order was issued for his imprisonment, and he 
was committed to the calabosa, some boxes of papers \vere seized, and 
Calleava was soon after released. Several Spanish officers feeling them- 
selves insulted by this degradation of their late Governor, sent to Governor 
Jackson a spirited remonstrance. This was so highly resented by Jackson, 
that he issued an order of banishment against twelve of them, and they 
were hurried from the Territory with the loss of nearly all their property. 



208 HISTORY. 

It having since been suggested to our general government that many 
important papers relating to land claims were still detained at the Havana, 
they sent an agent to examine the archives, and to collect other evidences 
on that subject. This agency was continued some years at a very great 
expense, but probably to little advantage. 

Governor Jackson removed the dividing line between East and West 
Florida, from the Appalachicola to the Suwanne River, thus rendering 
them more equal in size ; and established in each, courts with civil and 
criminal jurisdiction. At the same time he published several ordinances 

for their direction in the distribution of public justice. 
1822. On the 30th of March, 1822, Congress passed an act, erecting 
into a territory the two Floridas ; and his excellency, William P. 
Duval, was appointed governor for three years. A legislative council was 
formed, which held its first session in June. At this council, West Floiida 
was divided into two counties, Escambia and Jackson. East Florida was 
also divided into Duval and St. Johns Counties. Congress had, at their 
last session, established a Superior Court, to be held in each district of the 
Territory, corresponding to Jackson's division. 

The Legislative Council, in June, 1823, passed an act, appointing Dr. 
William H. Simmons, of St. Augustine, and J. Lee Williams, of Pensacola, 
Commissioners to locate a common seat of government. In October of the 
same year, they fixed the site, near the old fields of Tallahasse, the centre 
of the Fowl towns. In 1824, the town was surveyed, and the public offi- 
ces were soon after removed to that, place : where the seat of territorial 
government has since been established. 

Two more counties were this year established. Gadsden in West, and 
Monroe in East Floiida. The first embraced the country between Appa- 
lachicola and Suwanne Rivers, and the other all the tract of country below 
Charlotte. Bay and the Gulf south, together with the Florida Keys. This 
year Congress extended the term of the governor to four years. 

1824. The Legislative Council this year established the counties of 
Walton, Leon, Allachua, and Nassau. Congress established also 

a Court of Appeals, to be held by the several judges of the Superior 
Court, each year, in January, at the seat of government : and the Territory 
was divided into three Judicial Districts. The Eastern, to extend to the 
Suwanne River ' the Middle to the Appalachicola ; and the Western com- 
prising all the country west of that river. 

The Court of Appeals has been found of very little use. . The judges 
having once decided the causes in the Superior Courts of each district, 
usually confirm their own judgments. 

1825. The counties of Washington and Musquito were this year laid 
off. 



INDIANS. 209 

The privilege of electing members of the Legislative Council, was, this 
year, extended to the citizens of the Territory, by Congress, and the gov- 
ernor was empowered to divide the Territory into thirteen election dis- 
tricts. 

1827. Jefferson County was, this year, set off from Leon. 

The Southern Judicial District, was this year established, to em- 

1828. brace the Florida Keys, and the south end of the Peninsula, as far 
as Indian River and Charlotte Bay. Hamilton and Madison Coun- 
ties were set off from Jefferson. 

The privilege of electing all officers of the Territory, civil and mil- 

1829. itary, except such as are by law appointed by the President, was 
this year conferred on the citizens of the Territory. 

INDIANS. 

When Ponce De Leon visited Florida in 1512, the natives were repre- 
sented to have been a brave and warlike people, who wanted neither cour- 
age nor ability to defend themselves. 

In the succeeding invasions of Velasquez, in 1518, and of Pamphillo de 
Narvaez, in 1528, their bravery is equally well supported, but little more 
of their character is developed. The Spanish historians of that period 
were so engrossed in detailing the disasters of their own countrymen, that 
they did not trouble themselves to examine the character, policy or resour- 
ces of their enemy. 

In 1539, Ferdinand de Soto invaded Florida with an army that bore 
down all opposition, and for four years swept the face of the country like a 
desolating tempest. During this invasion the Indians did not exhibit less 
bravery than heretofore, but they had to contend with a distinguished chief, 
and men accustomed to overcome all opposition ; besides, De Soto carried 
with him a train of artillery and four hundred horses, neither of which had 
before been seen by the Floridians, and they were utterly astonished by 
their power and effects. Notwithstanding these disadvantages they fought 
many battles with desperation, hand to hand with their invaders, and in 
some instances, were killed to a man rather than retreat. 

In this campaign De Soto was accompanied by men who were capable 
of making correct observations as to the character, manners, policy, and 
resources of the natives. One of these, a Portuguese gentleman, has 
written a history of the invasion, which is now extant ; the others were 
carefully examined by Garcilasso de la Vega, the historian of the New' 
"World, and by him their narratives were committed to writing. Both of 
these writers have painted the natives minutely, and apparently with faith- 
ful colors. 

27 



210 INDIANS. 

It is not easy to determine, from what quarter the Florida tribes derived 
their origin ; or whether they were all connected with the Natchez. At the 
time the French settled in Louisiana, this nation extended up the eastern bank 
oftheMississippi, from near its mouth, to the Ohio River. Their traditions bore 
marks of probability, which have been confirmed, by the discoveries lately 
made, near the Gulf of Californa and on the Rivers Gila and Yaquisila. 
These traditions state, that the Natchez came from the South West, from 
a pleasant country and a mild climate, wheie they spread over an extensive 
territory of hills and plains, on the latter of which, their cities were built of 
stone, the houses several stories in height. Some of these people having 
been conquered by their enemies, their Sun, or Cacique, sent some of his sub- 
jects to discover a place of retreat ; on their return, they reported so favor- 
ably of the Mississippi country, that a large colony was sent to take posses- 
sion of it, where they resided in peace for many years. In process of time, 
the chief, Sun, came with the balance of the nation, stating that warriors 
of fire, who made the earth tremble, had visited their country, that the 
Natchez had assisted them to conquer their enemies, but the strangers then 
endeavored to enslave their allies; but rather than submit, they had aban- 
doned their country, and joined their friends on the Mississippi. 

Whether these people extended over Florida at the time of De Soto's in- 
vasion, or whether their example had tended to civilize the neighboring 
tribes, it is not easy to determine, but they were certainly far ahead of the 
other American savages, in civilization and all the arts of life. Those in 
the interior of the country, were also more civilized than those of the sea 
coast and islands. 

At the time of De Sotos' invasion, the countiy must have contained, ac- 
cording to La Vega, five times the number of inhabitants, that it does 
at this time ; this would have rendered wild game scarce, and would 
have necessarily induced the natives to adopt habits of industry and im- 
provement. At the same time, the abundance of fish and turtle on the sea 
coast, would lead to an erratic and idle life. The lands on the sea coast are 
also much poorer than those near the heads and sources of the rivers. 
There is no doubt that the mildness of the climate and the facility of pro- 
curing vegetable food, both tended to improve the social habits of the 
people. Accordingly, at Ocala, perhaps near Fort King, La Vega des- 
cribes a town of six hundred houses, and a few miles farther, another at 
Ochile (Chichila) of five hundred houses, enclosed with a regular palisado, 
and containing some buildings one hundred and twenty feet long. At the 
capital of Vitachucco, the cacique raised an army of six thousand men in 
four days, for the purpose of repelling their invaders. These people sub- 
sisted on fruits and grains, the produce of their industry, and they had abun- 






INDIANS. 211 

dance to spare to the Spanish army of twelve hundred men and four hun- 
dred horses. 

After the evacuation of the country by the Spaniards, the inhabitants 
were greatly diminished ; during the invasion vast numbers had peiished, 
both by the sword and by their extreme fatigues, in consequence of their 
being obliged to convey the Spanish baggage from one province to another. 
Indeed, they were so much weakened, that their enemies gained advanta- 
ges over them, which they never could have done, but for these disasters. , 

In 1564, Philip the II of Spain, conceived the project of converting the 
Indians of Florida, to the Catholic faith. For this service, he selected several 
missionaries, from the several orders of Spanish Friars, the most numerous 
as well as the most intelligent, of which, were Franciscans. These he sent 
under the protection of three thousand men, commanded by Don Pedro Me- 
nendez De Avilla, who was appointed Adelantado. The fleet anchored in the 
sound west of Anastatia Island, about the middle of September and a vil- 
lage was immediately commenced, on the western bank of the sound, and 
called St.. Augustine. A convent was also established for the missionaries 
and called St. Helena. From this place, they extended their labors over the 
whole country, as far west as the Mississippi and north to the Appalachean 
mountains. Few men have been more zealous or more successful than 
Menendez and his successor Alas, in the propagation of the Catholic faith. 
During the twenty-five years which they resided in Florida, they established 
several hundred societies of Indians, who sent regular deputies to the great 
convent of St. Helena. The missionary posts were establishments of much 
importance ; they were permanent stations where some special missionaries 
were permitted by the Indians to reside, to preach and to instruct the chil- 
dren of the natives, in the Spanish language, religion and the arts of life. 
In order to assist in these labors, several Spanish families were permitted also 
to settle at the posts ; they often encouraged marriages between the young 
persons of each nation, until they became like one people ; the country was 
extensively improved, and became very populous and very prosperous. 

At this period, Florida was divided between the Appalaches, who 
dwelt west of the Suwanne, and the Yamasees, who spread over the dis- 
trict between the Suwanne and the Atlantic, extending as far north as 
South Carolina ; these nations had long been at war with each other, 
but were reconciled by the Spaniards, and lived from that time in friendship 
and peace. 

De las Alas succeeded Menendez, as Adelantado of Florida ; the same po- 
licy pursued by his predecessors, was improved by him. In 1583, he 
united under the protection of Spain, the Chickasaws, Tocaposcas, Apacas, 
Tamaicas, Apiscas, and Alabamas ; and during the next year, the Chis- 
chemacas joined the confederacy. 



212 INDIANS. 

In 1680, de las Alas was succeeded by Don John Menyers de Cabrane. 
He became a bitter enemy to the Yamasees, suspecting them of being too 
friendly with the English of Carolina ; so far did his resentment extend, 
that he publicly executed their Cacique, Nichosatly. The English 
taking advantage of this event, engaged the Yamasees in a furious war 
with the Spaniards, which continued several years, until Cabrane was re- 
called to Spain. He was succeeded by Ayola as Governor. 

From this time till 1704, a space of fourteen years, the Indians of Flo- 
rida were alternately courted by the Spanish and French colonies in West 
Florida, and some of the young warriors were induced to take arms, but 
the body of the natives, remained peaceably at home, cultivating their 
lands. From this happy state, they were at length roused by the invasion 
of the Creeks, under the command of Governor Moore, of South Carolina. 
Two years before, Moore had attacked and beseiged St. Augustine, but 
was driven from thence with disgrace. To wipe off this stain, he, with a few 
more daring Carolinians, put themselves at the head of one thousand 
Creek warriors, who had ever been the enemies of the Florida tribes, and pro- 
ceeding down the Flint River, their first attack was made on Lewis's fort, on 
the east side of the Oclockony River, and about two and a half miles west 
of our Tallahasse ; this fort being carried, the whole country was swept of 
inhabitants, to the gates of St. Augustine. Many were destroyed, and the 
balance carried as slaves to the north side of Savanna River, and made to 
till the land. Two or three succeeding inroads cleared' the islands and 
coast of the Gulf of the Muspa and Caloosa tribes, as far as Cape Sable, 
and the Florida keys. The ruins of the Spanish monasteries and other im- 
provements, are still seen through middle Florida, and have for a long time 
been subjects of wonder, to inquiring travellers. 

In 1717, Governor Ayola succeeded in reconciling the Florida Indians 
with the Creeks, and planned a general attack upon the English settle- 
ments, in Carolina. The fragments of the Yamasees, and Appalaches, 
were united with the Creeks on the southern borders of the English settle- 
ments ; while the Congarees, Catowbas, and Cherokees, fell upon their 
western borders. The Indians being totally defeated by Governor Craven, 
the confederacy was dissolved, and the Florida Indians retired under the 
walls of St. Augustine. 

The next year, 1718, Ayola was succeeded by Malina, who put a stop 
to the Indian incursions against the English. He even drove them from 
their homes, near St. Augustine and St. Marks. This latter fort had been 
built by order of Governor Ayola, at the particular request of the scattering 
natives, and the Uchees who had removed from the neighborhood of 
Coweta, and was intended both to protect a trading house, and guard 



INDIANS. 213 

against the northern Indians. The natives were also ordered to remove 
from the neighborhood of the English colonies, and were compelled by an 
armed force to abandon their fields, then nearly ripe, and to encounter star- 
vation in the forests, exposed to those enemies that the Spanish cupidity 
had created against them. The consequence was, that vast numbers of 
them, men, women, and children, died of want and disease. 

After this, the surviving natives having retired to the southern pait of the 
peninsula, rested from war; but in 1725, Governor Malina, got embroiled 
with his English neighbors. He then sent to Macono, the Yama- 
see chief, to assist him, and defend the catholic faith against the heretics. 
This was ever the prevailing argument with those dupes of the catholic 
church. They forgot their injuries, and returned to fight the English ; and 
they ravaged the frontier settlements of Georgia, with fire and sword, until 
Colonel Palmer again drove them for shelter, under the walls of St. Augus- 
tine. Trifling incursions were kept up between the Indians and the English, 
until 1748, when a treaty between Spain and England laid the Savages at 
rest. 

In 1763, when these provinces were ceded to the English, the natives 
generally, retired from the towns, and commenced raising horses and cattle, 
in the deep forests. Here they continued to increase both by natural popu- 
lation, and by accessions from other tribes. The country was extensive, 
and became full of game : the climate was mild and produced many fruits ; 
all these circumstances tended to invite the neighboring Indians to collect 
and settle, especially around those pleasant prairies and old fields, abounding 
in peach and persimon orchards, and wild orange groves. By degrees they 
grew to a small nation, and were called Seminoles, or wanderers. 

Except some trifling disturbance, made in 1792, by an Englishman 
named Bowles, who joined the Seminoles, and excited them to some acts of 
hostility against the Spaniards, Florida remained quiet, until the Americans 
under Mathews, and Mcintosh, invaded East Florida, during the years 
1812, 13, and 14. At this time, being excited by the Spaniards in St. Au- 
gustine, their young warriors could not be restrained, but contrary to the 
advice of Payne, their civil chief, they committed many depredations on the 
American inhabitants. They were at length attacked near their towns, in 
Allachua, by Colonel Newnan of Georgia, where Payne was killed, and 
many of his warriors were cut off. 

In 1818, the Creek Indians under Mcintosh, their chief, attacked, and 
burned the Fowel towns on the borders of the Mickasookee Lake, and short- 
ly after, General Jackson broke up the main force of the Seminoles, near the 
Suwanne River, taking most of their women and children. The remaining 
warriors under Bowlegs, a brother of Payne, being wounded, took refuge un- 
der the walls of St. Augustine. 



214 INDIANS. 

Payne was the civil, and Bowlegs the military chief of the Seminoles ; 
they were the sons of Cowkeeper, a distinguished chief of East Florida. 
After the death of Payne, the eldest son of Solachoppo, or Long Tom, suc- 
ceeded him, but dying early of a debauch, his younger brother, Micanopy, 
became chief of the Seminoles. His father resided at Wealusta, or Black 
Creek, and owned many cattle, aud some slaves. He is a large fat man, 
rather obtuse in intellect, but kind to his people and slaves. One of them, 
Abraham, has long been an interpreter, and as such accompanied his mas- 
ter, and a deputation of Seminoles to Washington City. After his return, 
Micanopy gave him his freedom ; he is a sensible shrewed negro, and has 
ever been a principal counsellor of his master. Jumper was a Creek, and 
one of the leaders at the massacre of Fort Mimms, in 181 1. He came to 
Florida after Jackson's campaign, and married a sister of Micanopy ; since 
that time he has continued with the Seminoles. 

In 1823, 18th September, a treaty was concluded at Moultrey Creek, in 
East Florida, between the United States and the Indians of Florida, by 
which the latter agreed to surrender all their improvements in the Territory, 
except a part of the eastern peninsula, where they were to reside for twen- 
ty years. To this district they were removed during the winter of 1824, 
except some of their chiefs, who were granted reservations in West Florida. 
Hicks, one of the chiefs of the Mickasookies, removed with them, and 
retained the principal control of them till 1825, when he is said to have 
been shot or poisoned by some of Jumper's partisans. The Mickasooke 
Indians were principally Creeks, who, at the close of the campaign of 181S 
had taken refuge in Florida ; they had settled on the borders of the Micka- 
sooke Lake, the Oscilla River and Tallahasse ; their settlements were 
usually termed the Fowel Towns. Neamathla, a fugitive Creek, was their 
principal chief. Hicks lived near San Pedro Lake. Neamathla was 
opposed to the treaty of Moultrey Creek, but Hicks was in favor of it. 
Neamathla was with difficulty induced to sign the treaty. Two miles 
square of land on Rocky Comfort Creek, embracing the Tuphulga village, 
were reserved to him. He never resided on it, but returned to the Creek 
nation. The Mickasookies always expressed great unwillingness to leave 
the middle district of Florida. After settling on the Peninsula, they peti- 
tioned the government, through their agent, Col. Humphreys, to extend 
their lines farther north, which was finally granted, together with addition- 
al issues of provisions; still they continued dissatisfied, and during the 
years 1835 and 6 many of them were disposed to emigrate, and had their 
agent then been permitted to accompany them, it is believed that the 
whole nation would have left the Territory ; but he was soon after supersed- 
ed by Major Phagan, and he was in turn succeeded by General Willey 



INDIANS. 215 

Thompson. Complaints were often made by the inhabitants of Allachua 
that the Indians stole their cattle, and one or two acts were passed by the 
Legislative Council to restrain them within their boundary lines, and to 
prevent any intercourse or trading between them and the white inhabitants 
of Florida. In May, 1835, an Indian named Olapotha Hajo, who had a 
camp at the head of Salt Spring - , on the west side of Lake George, came to 
Switzers, a new plantation at the mouth of Silver Spring, and shot one of 
the laborers, a Captain Farnham, through the left shoulder. Farnham 
recovered, but it was evidently the intention of the Indian to kill him, as he 
took deliberate aim with his rifle. The plantation where this took place 
belonged to General Clinch ; the family of Switzer soon after abandon- 
ed the country, and the Indians, about nine in number, presently after came 
and robbed the house of such articles as they could carry away, and then 
burned the buildings to the ground, taking away with them a negro 
boy, who soon after escaped and returned to his master, Mr. Woodruff. 
About this time, Mr. Kerr, a public surveyor, while running lines west of 
Lake George, was fired on by the savages and driven off. Near the same 
period, Captain Willy, of the schooner Jane and Mary, ascended the St. 
John's as far as the mouth of the Ocklawaha, with a cargo of ammunition 
and military stores for Fort King ; the schooner was visited first by a few 
Indians, but afterwards by more, until about the third day their numbers 
amounted to forty or fifty. They grew impudent, and camped nearly 
around him. The schooner was well armed, but the crew consisted of the 
Captain and only three men. There can be no doubt of the intention of 
the savages to take the schooner, but Captain Willy, elevating one of the 
six pound field pieces over one of the Indian camps, fired it off. It had the 
desired effect ; the Indians soon scattered and left him. 

About the month of October, Major Lewellen Williams, and six of his 
neighbors, discovered a party of Indians near the Kenopaha Pond, butcher- 
ing one of their beaves. They disarmed five of them, and flogged some of 
them, but one got away, and two Indian hunters at the same time coming 
up fired on the whites ; a smart skirmish ensued, in which two of the Indians 
were killed, and three of the whites wounded ; one afterwards died of his 
wounds. 

Soon after this affair, the express riding from Tampa Bay, to Fort King, 
was murdered in a most shocking manner, by these Indians. 

Many other indications of the hostile feelings of the Seminoles and Mick- 
asookies were manifested during this summer, but they were but little re- 
garded by the Floridians ; they had long been accustomed to hold them in 
contempt, and treat them with indignity. 

General Willey Thompson, the Indian agent at Camp King, however, 



216 INDIANS. 

about, the 28th of October, notified the secretary of war. that about two- 
thirds of the Indians manifested an obstinate determination to disregard the 
treaty of Payne's Landing, and to resist a removal. 

The agent further stated, that immediately after the Indians had received 
their annuities, they purchased an unusual quantity of powder and lead, 
which he was informed, they had added to much greater stores, that they 
had before hoarded up. He advised that a large military force should be 
immediately placed in the nation, both to overawe the savages, and control 
designing persons, who he supposed were exciting the Seminoles to war. 
Those Indians disposed to emigrate, were commanded by the chiefs Holaste, 
Emathla, Fucaluste, Hajo, and Charley Emathla ; their numbers are sup- 
posed to amount to four or five hundred, but great exertions were made to 
prejudice them against the white population, and to make war rather 
than remove. 

In this exertion, none were more zealous than Powel or Oseola, a mixed 
blooded Creek of the Red Stick tribe, whose mother was a half breed, and 
his father an Englishman. He was without property or rank, until a daring 
spirit, about this time, distinguished him, before all his countrymen. It was 
at a talk held sometime during the summer of 1826, with the Indian agent, 
that Powel gave him the lie, said the country belonged to the Seminoles, 
and the whites had better be off; flourishing his knife in defiance. Gener- 
al Thompson reported his conduct to Colonel Fanning, who commanded 
the post, and Powel was seized by the guard, and put in irons. For some 
time he manifested great obstinacy and sullenness ;' finding this a useless 
course, he assumed a cheerful countenance, and pleasant demeanor, profess- 
ed a willingness to sign the articles for removing, and many of his friends 
the Mickasookies, of whom he had about seventy-five attached to him, 
came and voluntarily signed the treaty with him. He was at length relea- 
sed, and for some time he kept up the mask of friendship, and assisted the 
agent in restraining the Indians, especially the Mickasookies, from wander- 
ing out of their boundaries ; in some instances he inflicted severe chastise- 
ments on them. 

About the first of October, however, he cast off all connection with the 
agent, and united with Jumper and his adherents, and was the first to dip 
his tomahawk in blood. Charley Emathla was his first victim. The 
United States had agreed to purchase the cattle of the emigrating Indians, 
at a fair valuation : to this end, commissioners were sent to appraise them, 
on a certain day, which was generally advertised. The hostile chiefs for- 
bid the collecting and penning of the cattle, and threatened death to any 
that should disobey the order. Charley Emathla, one of the most sensible 
and prudent chiefs of the Seminoles, disregarding the threats of the hostile 



INDIANS. 217 

chiefs, about the 26th of November, came into Fort King, with his three 
daughters, and notified Colonel Yancey, one of the commissioners, that his 
cattle would be duly penned for appraisement ; on his return from the foit, 
he was beset by Powel, and about twenty of his followers, who pierced him 
with sixteen bullets. This murder struck such a terror through the Semi- 
nole tribe, that a stop was put to the further collection of cattle. A great 
namber of people, who had collected from every part of the neighboring 
country, to purchase cattle and horses, quickly retired to their homes. As 
no attempt was made by the officer in command at Fort King, to obtain satis- 
faction for, or to restrain these repeated aggressions of the hostile Mickasoo- 
kies, the friendly Seminoles became impressed with the idea, that the whites 
were too weak to defend them, and they reluctantly submitted to the Mick- 
asookies ; many of them at length joined in their war parties. From this 
period, Powel's authority and importance daily increased, which he sup- 
ported by daring acts of hostility against the Florida troops. 

In October, General Clinch advised the Secretary of War, that there 
was danger to be apprehended from the hostile chiefs, and required an addi- 
tion to the troops, located in that vicinity. Tt seems that, in consequence 
of the representations of the General, and the Indian agent, fourteen compa- 
nies of regular troops, were ordered to hold themselves in readiness, to 
march to Florida, from different posts, but such was the distance, and diffi- 
culty of transportation, that none of them had reached Fort King on the first 
of January. 

On the 21st December, Major Dade arrived at Tampa Bay, from Key 
West, with Company A. Infantry, thirty-nine men, and a small supply of 
cartridges ; to this was joined Gardner's Company of 2d Artillery, and Fra- 
zier's Company 3d Infantry, fifty men each. This force marched for Fort 
King on the 24th, attended by a 6 pounder, drawn by oxen, and one light 
wagon with ten days provision. They proceeded that day to Lit lie Hills- 
borough River, seven miles from Tampa. The field piece was, however, 
left four miles from Tampa, the oxen having failed. Major Dade sent back 
an express, requesting Major Belton to furnish another team, and push for- 
ward the field piece ; this was done the next day, and the piece reached the 
camp about nine o'clock in the evening. On reaching the Big Hillsbo- 
rough, the detachment was delayed some time, on account of the bridge 
having been burned by the Indians. 

On the 27th they reached the Big Ouithlacoochee. On the 28th, they 
continued their march about six miles, when they were suddenly attacked 
in an open pine country, by an unseen enemy. The attack commenced on 
the advance guard, but immediately extended along the front and left flank; 
several volleys were fired before an enemy could be seen. The first dis- 

28 



218 INDIANS. 

charge was the most fatal ; Major Dade was killed and nearly half the com- 
mand disabled. The remaining troops immediately took shelter behind trees, 
and Lieut. Bassinger poured in five or six rounds of canister upon the Indians, 
which checked them for some time ; they retreated over a small ridge and 
disappeared. When the Indians commenced the attack, they were squat- 
ting behind trees in the high grass ; after firing several vollies, they rose 
simultaneously, and yelled horribly. Capt. Frazier fell probably at the first 
fire, as he rode to the advance guard. Lieut. Mudge was mortally 
wounded, Lieut. Keys had both arms broken, they were bound up, and he 
reclined against some logs until he was killed late in the action ; Lieut. 
Henderson had his left arm broken, but continued to load and fire his piece, 
until late in the second attack, when he was killed. Capt. Gardener, Lieut. 
Bassinger and Doct. Gatlin were the only officers who escaped unhurt by 
the first volley. 

On the retreat of the Indians, Capt. Gardener immediately commenced 
cutting pine trees, and erecting a small triangular breast-work, with the logs. 
In about three quarters of an hour, their labor was interrupted by a return 
of the Indians. They came in vast numbers with horrid yells, and com- 
menced a cross fire on the breast-work with deadly execution. Lieut. Bas- 
singer continued to fire the six pounder, until all the artillerists were cut 
dowri by the enemy's shot. Capt. Gardener was at length shot down ; 
Doct. Gatlin with two double barreled guns, continued behind the breast- 
work filing on the Indians, until late in the action, when he fell and Lieut. 
Bassenger was severely wounded. About two o'clock the last man fell, and 
the Indians then rushed into the breast-work, headed by a heavy painted 
Indian, who believing that all were dead, made a speech to the savages. 
They then stripped off the accoutrements of the soldiers, and took their arms 
without offering any indignity ; they retired in a body in the direction from 
which they came. 

Soon after the Indians had retired, about fifty negroes galloped up on 
horesback ; when they reached the breast- work they alighted, and tied their 
horses. Then commenced a horrible butchery. If anv poor fellow on the 
ground shewed the least signs of life, the thick lipped savages sank their 
tomahawks in their brains, and with their knives stabbed and mutilated them 
amid yells and blasphemies. Lieut. Bassenger being still alive, started up 
and begged the wretches to spare his life; they mocked at his prayers, while 
they mangled him with their hatchets till death came to his relief. 

After stripping all the dead, the negroes took the field piece and cast it 
into a pond which was not far distant, shot the oxen, and burnt the wagon 
and gun carriages. Shortly after the negroes retired, a soldier named 
Wilson, of Captain Gardener's company, crawled out from among the man- 



INDIANS. 219 

gled bodies, and discovering that Rawson Clark was still alive, he asked 
him to go with him back to Tampa. As he jumped over the breast-work, 
Clark was about to follow^ when an Indian started from behind a tree and 
shot him dead. Clark again crawled down among the dead bodies, and 
laid still till nine o'clock in the evening ; he then crawled out, and with De 
Coney, another wounded man, made the best of their way for Tampa. 
The next day they met an Indian on horseback, with his rifle ; they sepa- 
rated, one ran to the right and the other to the left. De Coney was 
pursued and shot by the savage ; Clark, after reaching a scrub, hid him- 
self; the Indian came near him, searching the bushes, but at length rode 
off. Stiff and cold, Clark camped that night in the woods, surrounded by 
wolves, who scenting the blood, howled fearfully around him. The next 
day he reached Tampa and recovered of his wounds. Another soldier, 
named Thomas, who was partly suffocated beneath the bodies, recovered 
and found himself in the hands of an Indian that he knew ; he gave the 
Indian six dollars and was permitted to escape. H e reached the Fort at 
Tampa in safety. 

Jumper took the command of the Indians in this massacre, although it ia 
stated that Micanopy was compelled to commence the attack by firing the 
first gun. Lewis was the guide of Major Dade ; he was frequently absent 
from the troops in the march ; he fell on hearing the first gun, but directly 
after joined the enemy, and read to them the despatches and papers found 
upon the dead. He was a free negro, formerly the property of General 
Clinch. 

The number of Indians engaged in the above horrid affair was very 
great, and when it is recollected that a large party w r ere at the same time 
at Wakahoota, and another party at Allachua, under Powell, we shall dis- 
cover that the numbers of the Indians had been greatly underrated, and 
that their courage and ability to carry on the war, had been utterly misun- 
derstood by ths American government. 

The news of Emathla's murder reached General Clinch at St. Augustine, 
about the 1st of December. He was too well acquainted with the savage 
character to doubt the object of this daring stroke of Powel. He immedi- 
ately started for Micanopy by way of Jacksonville. From the latter place 
he addressed a circular to the inhabitants of Duval and Nassau counties, 
inviting two hundred volunteers to repair to the frontier posts, to check any 
attempts of the hostile Indians against the inhabitants. The population of 
these counties cheerfully responded to the call, and by the 15th, several 
companies, under the command of Colonels Warren and Mills, were at 
Newnansville, on their way to Fort Drane, where they were met by Gen. 
Call, at the head of five hundred men from Middle Florida. 



220 INDIANS. 

On the I7ih they arrived at the Allachua Prairie, where they were met 
by news that the enemy had appeared in force at Wakahoota, where they 
had burned and ravaged the plantations of Capt. Priest and others, and 
had wounded several men, among whom was a son of Capt. Priest. Gen. 
Call ordered a detachment under the command of Capt. Richards, to es- 
cort three wagons and a cart containing the ammunition and stores of Col. 
Warren's command, to proceed by the Allachua Prairie to Micanope. 
They proceeded round the west end of the prairie, it being full of water, 
until they reached Black Point, on the south side. W. Ives was placed 
one hundred paces in front with five men, and J. Sumeral with the same 
number in the rear ; thirteen continued in the centre with the wagons. 
The advanced guard had passed the point unmolested, but when the teams 
came opposite, and about forty yards from the point, a severe fire was 
opened upon them from the bushes. The front and rear guards were or- 
dered to the centre, but five only obeyed, to wit : Ives, Sumeral, Spark- 
man, and two teamsters without guns. Tillis fired three times and was 
then shot through the body. The Captain and all the rest ran off on the 
first fire. One horse was killed in the harness, and one broke loose. Ives 
and Sparkman placed Tillis in the cart and were driving it off, when three 
Indians ran from the brush to stop them ; they were all cut down by the 
fiie of those at the cart, who then retreated back, until they were met by 
Col. Warren. During their retreat the cart-horse received three balls and 
on reaching a spot of dry ground he fell dead. The Indians took the am- 
munition from the wagons and burned one of them. Soon after Capt. M. 
Lemore arrived and charged up to the hammock with his Orderly Ser- 
geant, Hurst, but was not followed by his company. Hurst was shot 
through the body and fell. Another attempt was made to charge the 
hammock, but the troops, with the exception of fifteen, refused, and the 
whole retreated to Fort Crum. One of the men, named McKee, was 
shot dead, Weeks and Tillis died of their wounds, Hurst recovered. 

On the 20th the troops again marched for Micanope ; the Indians had 
left Black Point, but on proceeding to Malachi Hagan's, half a mile north 
of Micanope, they saw his buildings on fire, and Indians running from 
them into a wet dense hammock. General Call ordered the hammock to 
be surrounded and scoured. On this service Capt. Lancaster received a 
dangerous wound from a rifle ; his company soon disposed of five of the 
savages : no more were found. Capt. Lancaster since recovered. 

On the 28th, the same day that Major Dade was cut off, Powel, with 
twenty of his band, came to the house of Mr. Erastus Rodgers, the suttler 
at Fort King, situated about two hundred and fifty yards from the pickets. 
Rodgers was at dinner with a party of friends, when the Indians fired on 



INDIANS. 221 

ihem through the door, and then burst into the house. Rodgers and his 
company jumped out of the window and fled, some towards Fort King, 
and some towards a neighboring hammock ; the former escaped ; the lat- 
ter, consisting of Rodgers, Suggs, and Hitzler, together with Gen. Wiley 
Thompson, the Indian Agent, and Lieut. Constantine Smith, who were 
walking out in that direction, were shot dead. The body of Gen. Thomp- 
son was pierced with fifteen balls, and that of Rodgers with sixteen. All 
of them except Suggs, were scalped and horribly mangled. All this oc- 
curred in open day light, in the face of a company of men, who heard the 
Indian rifles, but suffered the savages to escape unmolested. A negro wo- 
man, cook of Rodgers, hid behind a barrel and escaped observation. Powel 
entered the house, looked around, kicked over the table, and retired. 

On the 24th, General Call, with the volunteers from Middle Florida, and 
Colonel Warren's command of East Floridians, in all, five hundred men 
formed a junction with General Clinch, at Fort Drane. These troops had 
been levied for one month only, and their time was nearly expired. In order 
to avail himself of their services, General Clinch ordered Colonel Fanning 
from Fort King, with three companies of artillery ; they arrived on the 27th 
still they were detained till the 29th, for two detachments that had been 
sent out on the 25th, to scour the neighboring country. These ha vino- arri- 
ved, the little army marched for the Ouithlacooche, in the direction of Pow- 
el's town. 

On the morning of the 31st, at four o'clock, the baggage was left under 
the care of Lieutenant Dansy, three miles from the Ouithlacooche. Gene- 
ral Clinch pushed forward the troops, in hopes to surprise the Indians on the 
bank of the river. Several friendly Indians, among whom were Holate 
Emathia and his son, served as guides, and promised to lead the army 
to a ford that should be only waist, deep. They were mistaken ■ when 
the advanced guard reached the river at early day-light, they found it both 
deep and rapid. A hammock of thick woods, two hundred yards deep 
lined the river's bank. The negro guide stated that the Indians probably 
occupied this ground. The army was halted, and Adjutant Talcot was 
ordered forward with a few soldiers to reconnoitre the forest ; he was 
accompanied by Major Lytle. No Indians were found, but their tracks were 
numerous ; a pen extended into the water, and showed that cattle had 
lately been crossed. Opposite the pen, they perceived, on the other side of 
the river, a small canoe. 

These facts being reported, Captain Mellon, and Lieutenant Talcot, offer- 
ed to swim across the river, and fetch the canoe, but General Clinch forbade 
them ; he, however, permitted two of Captain Mellon's soldiers to cross, who 
soon bailed out the water, and brought the fragile bark to the shore ;it could 



222 INDIANS. 

bear only seven or eight men at a time. Captains Mellon and Drane soon had 
their companies across the stream, and paraded on the other bank. About 
seventy yards below this crossing, there was a small island, and some of 
the troops fell to chopping trees on the bank, and lodging their tops upon 
the island, to form a temporary bridge ; many of the trees were swept down 
the current. Impatient of this delay in crossing, Maxey Dill, one of War- 
ren's volunteers dashed his horse into the river, and although two or three 
times dislodged from his back, he safely reached the other bank. Colonel 
Mcintosh and Major Lytle, aids of General Clinch, then swam their horses 
across ; a few of the men, but none of the officers followed them. Two or 
three of the friendly Indians swam, and drove across about three hundred of 
the horses. It was eleven o'clock before General Clinch, Colonels Parkhill, 
Reed, Warren, Mills, Major Cooper, Captains Scott, Bailey, and some others 
got over. All the regulars, one hundred and ninety-five, and twenty-seven 
volunteers under Warren and Mills, were crossed. The south bank was a 
wet swamp, for two hundred yards ; this was succeeded by a thick scrub, 
beyond this there was a dry plain ; the trail led through this plain, and here 
the regulars were formed by Colonel Fanning, in double files, while Gen. 
Clinch was superintending the construction of the bridge, in order to facil- 
itate the crossing of Call's volunteers. The regulars were surrounded on 
the south-west and north by thick scrub ; about forty yards on the east 
there was a dense hammock. The soldiers being weary were permitted to 
sit at ease, some were lying on the ground, sentinels having been posted, 
some of them in the hammock. The timber, vines and brush were so thick 
that the Indians crept up very near to them before they were discovered. 
The sentinels were compelled to fly, and gave the alarm. The regulars 
were immediately in line on the plain ; an Indian soon discovered himself, 
when Capt. Mellon immediately fired at him. The savages then raised 
their yell, and opened a galling fire upon the troops, wholly unsheltered as 
they were. It was one o'clock. 

The moment of alarm brought General Clinch, with his Aid, Major Lytle, 
to the plain, where he assumed the command of the regulars. To extend 
the line and reduce the ranks was a matter of some difficulty, and occupied 
considerable time, under the heavy firing of the enemy. Several charges 
were made to the edge of the hammock, but it was too thick to enter in any 
order, and the line was ordered to return. It was believed that some soldier 
gave this order ; who he was, could never be discovered. It passed along 
the line twice, and was in both instances obeyed. 

The Indians made an attempt to turn the right flank, but Captains Gates 
and Mellon, being ordered to charge them, they fl d from the bayonets. 
The Indians continued their fire on our front, and also upon the left flank 
beyond the line of regulars, where the twenty-seven East Florida volunteers 



INDIANS. 223 

were stationed ; these men however, being sheltered by the trees, gallantly 
sustained their post. This however was a critical period, many of the of- 
ficers were badly wounded and the volunteers, though every moment ex- 
pected, did not cross the bridge to the support of the regulars. Gen. Clinch's 
horse had received two wounds, and was staggering under him, Maj. Lytles 
horse was shot through and ultimately died ; Col. Warren and Major 
Cooper, Capt. and Lieut. Graham and many of the soldiers were badly 
wounded. All fought for their lives, but the advantage was in favor of the 
savages. After the last charge, the line had retired thirty or forty yards. 
The word halt was given by Gen. Clinch and loudly repeated by all the 
officers. The line halted, the Gen. dismounted, drawing his sword, ap- 
proached the line and addressed his men. He spake with much feeling, 
told them they must defend their post, that he was there ready to die in the 
discharge of his duty, and there must be no retreat. He remounted, order- 
ed another charge, the enemy fled at every point and the battle ended. 

After the last charge was made, Gen. Call rode on to the field, and ad- 
dressing Gen. Clinch said, sir you must retreat across the river. Gen. 
Clinch asked him why he must retreat. Call answered that the militia 
would not support the regulars, and as their time expired the next day, they 
would return. Under these circumstances Gen. Clinch was compelled to 
submit, and accordingly gave orders to withdraw the regulars across the 
river. In this, the enemy, though numerous, did not attempt to molest 
them. 

Col. Parkhill, Ajt. Gen. from the beginning to the close of the battle, dis- 
tinguished himself by constant active services. Col Reed continued on 
the field, although he and his horse were both wounded, till he was ordered 
to the river for the volunteers, who were in vain ordered to the scene of action. 

Majors Welford and Gamble, aids of Gen. Call were engaged in most 
of the action. Col. M'Intosh, who lost his horse, took post with his rifle 
on the left, with Majors Cooper and Gamble, Captains Scott and Baily 
with the other twenty-seven volunteers, five of whom were wounded. Gen. 
Clinch was shot through his cap and coat sleeve. The dead and wounded 
were removed under the care of Doct. Waightman, who came over to the 
scene of action to attend them. Four men were killed and fifty-two wound- 
ed. After the last charge, many of the Indians were found dead on the 
field, but their whole loss is unknown. 

This battle was fought within three miles of Oseola's town ; the Indians 
were flushed with their triumph over poor Dade, and fought with desperate 
firmness ; their line at one time, extended more, than half a mile in a circu- 
lar form and threatened to surround the little band of regulars, until they 
were broken by the last effective charge. 

Could the General have availed himself of even half of the volunteer* 



224 INDIANS. 

it is more than probable that he would have ended the Seminole war at once; 
but his repeated orders to bring them into the field were disobeyed, and had 
the regulars and the 27 veteran militia been cut off, to a man, their five 
hundred brethren would probably not have been allowed, by their comman- 
der to afford them any assistance. For this disobedience of orders, he was 
afterwards promoted to the command of the army in Florida, and we shall 
see to what purpose. 

Gen. Clinch was now left with one hundred and fifty men, worn down 
with fatigue, to protect Forts Drane, Micanopy and Oakland, and to guard 
the trains of wagons necessary to bring from Gareys Ferry, sixty miles 
distant, the provisions and stores for their support. 

On the first of Jan. 1836, Maj. Stephens arrived with twenty volunteers, 
at Picolata, from Savanna, with two fine brass field pieces. They were 
followed the next week, by forty more volunteers, and from this time, com- 
panies from different parts of Georgia continued to arrive, during the winter. 
Provisions and military stores also were sent to Picolata, and thence by trains 
of wagons to Fort King, Fort Drane and Micanopy. The settlements 
were generally broken up in the centre of the Peninsula, part of the inhab. 
itants left the Territory, and the remainder erected stockades and defended 
themselves. 

Philip, with his gang of murderers, commenced hostilities on the eastern 
sea coast. The settlements at Musquito were destroyed, and the slaves car- 
ried off. Two companies of militia were sent to Tomoko under Maj. Put- 
nam and Capt. Keogh. The settlements on the Halifax River were aban- 
doned. 

On the 17th, Major Putnam embarked his company on board three boats, 
and proceeded down the Halifax River, to Dun Lowton, to bring away the 
corn, and other stores left there, by the family of Mrs. Anderson ; they found 
the house burning, but encamped near the ruins, for the night. Early in 
the morning, two Indians were discovered near the encampment ; these 
were fired upon by Mr. Dummet ; one of them fell, the other ran off. A brisk 
engagement ensued. About forty Indians first appeared, in the direction 
of the Sugar House ; they were soon driven back, but other parlies of ten 
and twelve, came in from different points, and in a short time out flanked 
them, so that the ruins of the building were no longer a shelter. As they 
were greatly out numbered by the savages, a retreat was ordered to the 
boats, which were anchored in the stream. In regaining the boats, most of 
their ammunition was wet, and rendered useless. The savages pursued 
them to their boats, one of which they took, compelling two young men, 
Marks and Gould, to swim to Pellican Island. Marks swam the east arm 
of the river, to Anastatia Island, and escaped, but Gould was overtaken by 



INDIANS. 225 

the savages, and shot. Seventeen were wounded, two mortally, and two 
more so badly, that they will never entirely recover. 

About this time, information was received, that General Scott had 
been appointed to the command of the troops in Florida, and that General 
Clinch, was, of course superseded. This act was achieved by the same 
influence, that has constantly poisoned the ears of the present administra- 
tion, in most of the appointments made for this devoted Territory, by which 
her prosperity has been for eight years checked, and the exertions of her 
best, citizens blasted. Our delegate in Congress was not consulted. Ge- 
neral Clinch, who conquered the foe on the banks of the Ouithlacooche, 
without the charge of a fault, without an intimation of dissatisfaction, was 
placed under the command of an officer, who, although one of the ablest, 
was utterly ignorant of the country, and equally ignorant of the enemy he 
was sent to encounter ; what belter could have been expected, than that 
which resulted from his labors. 

General Clinch, instead of retiring in disgust, sacrificed his feelings to 
the duty he owed to his country, and although a cypher in command, was 
looked up to by the soldiers as a warrior, and by the inhabitants as a pa- 
triot, without fear, and without reproach. 

About the 15th of January, General Gaines left his head quarters, at 
Memphis, Tennessee, on a tour of inspection. On his way to Louisiana, he 
heard of the war in Florida, and of Dade's massacre. He at once wrote to 
the Governor of Louisiana, for a body of volunteers, and proceeded to Pen- 
sacola, to get the assistance of the naval force there. Commodore Dallas, 
had anticipated his purpose, by sending down the coast, marines and muni- 
tions of war. 

General Gaines had ordered Colonel Twiggs, to take command of eight 
companies of volunteers, and all the regulars that could be drawn from the 
posts in Louisiana, and proceed to Tampa Bay. This force, eleven hun- 
dred strong, embarked in three steamboats, on the 4th February, under the 
command of the General, who had returned from Pensacola. They reach- 
ed Tampa on the 9th, and marched for the Indian country on the 13th. 

He first proceeded eastward, towards the Allafia River, expecting to find 
a body of the enemy, who had the day before attacked some friendly In- 
dians, that had been scouting from Fort Brook ; after two days search, and 
finding no signs of an enemy, he changed his course, and marched for Fort 
King, to obtain provisions, having seen the Quarter Master's order, dated 
21st January, directing twenty thousand rations to be sent to that post. 

On the 20th they passed Dade's Battle Ground, and interred the bodies 
of one hundred and six men. After this sad tribute of respect they pro- 
ceeded, and on the 22d reached Fort King. Here they were able to obtain 

29 



226 INDIANS. 

but two days rations ; the horses were therefore sent with an escort to Fort 
Drane for further supplies ; they returned on the 24th with eight day's 
rations. No more could be obtained in the country. The road from 
Bayard, opposite to Picolata, had been thrown up late in the autumn, and 
had not firmly settled. The season was very wet, and the heavy wagons 
directly cut it up so deeply, that horses could scarcely travel, even without 
loads. The inland posts were therefore destitute of provisions and forage. 
Thus circumstanced, General Gaines determined to return to Tampa by 
the trail of the Indian towns. He marched on the 26th, and reached the 
right bank of the Ouithlacooche at Clinch's Battle Ground. The army 
halted, and several officers rode down to the river to examine and sound the 
depth of water ; it was about 2 o'clock, P. M, when the Indians commenced 
a spirited fire on the left flank of the army from the southern shore, it was 
accompanied with the savage yell, and continued about half an hour, during 
which time eight of the soldiers were wounded, and one killed. The next 
morning the army moved down the river to a place where the banks were 
less shaded with woods ; here the advanced guard were attacked, and Lieut. 
Izard mortally wounded. As he fell, he commanded his men to lie close 
and keep the line. He died on the 5th day, and was buried on the banks 
of the river. During the whole of this day, except a short interval, the fire 
and the } r ells of the enemy were kept up, and one more man was killed. 
Captain Saunders, who commanded the friendly Indians, and Captain Arm- 
strong, of the schooner Motto, were badly wounded. This evening, an 
express was sent to General Clinch at Fort Drane, requesting him to 
co-operate with what force he could spare. But his force was barely 
sufficient to protect the post and without provisions ; besides, he was now un- 
der the command of General Scott ; of course, he was unable to leave the fort. 
On the 29th, one-third of the troops were ordered to strengthen the 
breast-work that had been erected, by piling a few logs upon it, and 
digging a ditch inside. The remainder of the force was employed in mak- 
ing canoes and rafts for crossing the river. About 9 o'clock, the laborers 
and the guard were at the same time assaulted by a vigorous fire from 
every side, except that side next the river, which was continued incessantly 
for two hours, during which time one man w r as killed, and three officers, and 
thirty non-commissioned officers and privates, wounded. General Gaines 
was among the wounded ; a ball passed through his under lip, and broke 
out three of his teeth. The enemy at length retired, leaving one of their 
dead ; they had dragged him a considerable distance, then took his rifle, 
and abandoned him with his powder and about sixty bullets. A field 
piece had been used to some effect, but its ammunition was expended, 
except six cartridges reserved to meet an assault. On the 30th another 



INDIANS. 227 

express was sent to Fort Drane soliciting provisions and a reinforcement. 
In the meantime General Clinch had sent an express to Picolata. General 
Scott on receiving it sent a messenger twenty miles on the road, towards 
Fort Drane, to stop the march of Major Cooper with his brigade of Georgia 
volunteers, who returned to the river St. John's, and Major Douglass' bat- 
talion was also detained much against its will, at Garey's Ferry, on Black 
Creek. 

On the receipt of the second message, General Clinch put himself at the 
head of all his disposable force, together with Captain Robertson's Augus- 
ta blues, and Captain Bones' company of hussars, and a large company of 
volunteers from Allachua, who drove about forty beeves collected by Mr. 
Dill; the General also took a large quantit}' of corn from his own private 
stores, and marched to relieve General Gaines. 

The provisions of the besieged army were so far exhausted that their 
remaining corn was issued a pint per day to each man, and this could last 
but a few days, and had to be parched, or eat raw. They had no covering, 
the ground was wet, and they were confined to the ditches day and night. 
Some horses were killed and eaten, and every dog was considered ^ luxury ; 
one biscuit sold for five dollars ; yet there was no murmuring, and no talk 
of a retreat. They were generally surrounded, and every night rows of 
fires were made by the Indians a little out of gun shot. 

On the five first days of March, the enemy continued both day and 
night to fire at intervals ; and the best marksmen in the camp watched 
every opportunity to pick off the Indians, whenever they approached suffi- 
ciently near, or left their covert of trees. 

On the night of the 5th an Indian called from the woods and hailed the 
camp ; he was answered, and asked his wishes ; he said the Indians were 
tired of fighting, and desired to make peace. The General directed an 
officer to tell him to come in the morning with a white flag, and he should 
be heard ; he answered, very well. Expecting some stratagem, a peculiar 
caution was kept up all night. This day one man had been killed and 
two wounded. These were the only casualties that had occurred since 
the 29th. 

On the 6th, about 10, A. M., three hundred Indians filed out from the 
river, and took a position five hundred yards in rear of the camp; at length 
a few advanced with great caution near to the camp, and waved the white 
flag. Captain Hitchcock was ordered to meet them ; he went with Capt. 
Marks, attended also by Major Lear, officer of the day. They all sat down 
upon a log. Powel, Jumper, and Alligator, on the part of the Indians, 
stated that they were tired of fighting and wished to remain in peace on the 
south of the Ouithlacooche, and they would leave the whites unmolested 



228 INDIANS. 

on the other side. Abraham, Micanopy's sense keeper, acted as interpre- 
ter. 

On reporting this talk to the General, he directed his officer to state to 
them that he had not power to treat with them, but advised them to leave 
the country, stating the force that was on their march to overwhelm them, 
&c. They said they would go and hold a council, and give an answer in 
the evening. They returned in the afternoon, and said they wished to 
consult Micanopy, their Governor, and asked a cessation of arms. They 
were answered, that if they retired south of the river, and abstained from hos- 
tilities, and would attend a council when called upon, that their request 
would be granted ; they promised to do so. At this time the body of the 
Indians, at a distance, were seen to break, and run for the river, and Gene- 
ral Clinch was seen to advance. His advanced guard of mounted men 
formed a hasty line on the left, and fired briskly on the flying Indians, but 
they were directly out of the reach of a rifle shot. Powcl and his friends 
were advised to retire also, which they did without delay. 

This relief was most grateful to the besieged army, wholly unaccustom- 
ed to privations and exposure of that kind. Several beeves were 
slaughtered, and an abundant meal, soon made them forget their recent 
hardships. Powel had, at the conference, told Captain Hitchcock, that 
General Clinch would be there in three hours ; he also told him that he 
well knew the army was out of provisions, and offered him three cattle, 
and a bottle of brandy, if he would send over the river for them. He stated 
the number of his warriors present, at eight hundred, said that many had 
been killed and wounded, and that the Indians were tired of fighting. 

On the 8th, a Negro man, whose wife and family, were in the Indian 
nation, was sent over the river to learn the situation of the warriors, and 
ascertain their intentions ; he returned on the evening of the 10th, and 
stated that they were seriously desirous of peace, and had dispersed two 
or three miles, in several encampments, said that they had seen our men 
fishing, but did not wish to molest them ; also that they had lost in the se- 
veral engagements with this army, thirty warriors killed, and many 
wounded. 

On the 9th, General Gaines delivered up the command of the army, to 
General Clinch. On the 10th, the whole marched back to Fort Drane, 
which they reached on the eleventh. 

Before proceeding to detail the events of another campaign, it may be 
well to pause, and for a moment reflect on the present situation of the war. 
Are the Indians sincerely desirous of peace 1 if so, it would be worse than 
folly, for General Scott to push the war again into their settlements. The 
evidences of their disposition, are discovered from their overtures, and their 
future conduct. 



INDIANS. 229 

Their proposition to General Gaines, was " that they were tired of fight- 
ing, and wished to remain in peace, on the south side of the Ouithlacooche, 
and they would leave the whites unmolested, on the other side." On these 
terms they undoubtedly desired peace. But having (says our government) 
agreed to leave the country, war was made to compel them to leave it. 

They asked for a cessation of hostilities, it was granted them upon con- 
dition of retiring to the south side of the river, and attending a council when 
called upon. They promised to comply, and retired, but never returned to 
attend a council. When Primus was sent to invite them, they kept him 
a prisoner, and sent no answer, except from the bore of their rifles. 

Thai the Hero of Erie, was completely hoaxed by the savages, is the 
universal belief in Florida. It was perhaps good policy in him, to put a 
different face on the affair. We give General Gaines credit for the best in- 
tentions, in visiting our Territory, and most sincerely regret that he was not 
more successful. 

On the 13th Gen. Scott arrived at Fort Drane, with two companies of 
regulars. He had left at Tarver's, on the Allachua Prairie, Douglass' Bat- 
talion of Georgia volunteers, and Wharton's dragoons. Col. Twigs, Maj. 
Mumford, Maj. k Lear, of the army, and Capt. Marks, of the Louisiana 
troops, left Fort Drane, and Gen. Gaines started for Tallahasse on the 
14th. 

The army was ordered to penetrate the hostile country in three columns. 
The right, commanded by Gen. Clinch, was to march by the Ouithlacooche. 
The left.commanded by Gen. Eustice, to leave Volusia, above Lake George, 
to pass by the upper crossing of the Ocklawaha, and thence to Pilacklaka- 
ha. While the centre, under Col. Lindsey, should march direct from Tam- 
pa to Chicuchatty. Here the three wings were expected to enclose the 
Indians and dispose of them. Gen. Scott's great fear was that they should 
slip by him and retreat south to the everglades. Each column as it arriv- 
ed at the place of destination, was directed to fire signal guns. The dis- 
tance that each column had to march to reach Chicuchatty, was about 
sixty miles. The 25th was the day appointed for the columns to meet. 
Such was the difficulty, however, of collecting the troops and procuring 
transportation, that neither the right or left wing took up the line of march 
before the 26th ; the centre marched on the 22nd from Tampa. 

The right wing, under Gen. Clinch, attended also by Gen. Scott, took 
the route by Fort Izard, on the Ouithlacooche, so named by Gen. Gaines. 
The rains had been incessant for several days, and the pine lands were 
very soft, so that the wagons moved very slowly ; they reached the river 
on the morning of the 28th. The savages directly let them know that 
they were at their old post, by firing a few vollies across the stream into 



230 INDIANS. 

the camp. Col. Gadsden immediately reconnoitered the spot, and selected 
a place for crossing ; the boats which had been brought from Fort Drane 
were launched, and every thing prepared for crossing the next morning. 
By four o'clock on the 29th the field pieces were brought up to the bank, 
and the sharp shooters ranged to cover the crossing column. Foster 
Blodget, of Robison's Augusta Blues, stripped and swam across the stream 
with a rope, which he fastened to a tree, and thus greatly accelerated the 
passage of the boats. Two companies of mounted men crossed the river 
one and a half miles below this ford ; another company swam the river at 
the ferry. By evening the whole arnvy had crossed. The rear under Col. 
Bankhead were attacked, but the enemy shortly dispersed. During the 
night a few shots were fired into the camp. 

On the 30th, the wing marched up the river, as General Clinch was sat- 
isfied that their enemy were concentrated near that place. About 10 o'clock 
small numbers of Indians were seen on an island, in a chain of lakes that 
lay on the right, and ranged along parallel with the river. These Indians 
were attacked, and pursued about four miles ; but they escaped, and the 
wing encamped for the night. Early the next morning, the enemy were 
discovered on another island, of Cypress Swamp. This island was 
attacked by Colonel Smith at one end, and by Colonel Bankhead on the 
other. The swamp was surrounded by a deep boggy savanna, which 
prevented the horse from acting. As the columns approached the higher 
points of the island, they received a sharp fire from the enemy ; but a rapid 
charge drove them from the island three or four miles, and they finally cross- 
ed the river, and again escaped. During this pursuit through hammocks, 
swamps, and savannas, the Indians availed themselvs of their knowledge of 
the paths and coverts, and never failed to attack our troops at every oppor- 
tunity, in 'front, flank and rear. The troops encamped on the bank of 
the river, and the next morning returned to the baggage waggons for pro- 
visions, having fasted twenty-four hours. 

April 1st, marched along the west side of the Lake Oloklikany, or Spot- 
ted Lake, which spread out between the army and the river. On the 
second, in the morning, reached the south extremity ; the pine woods were 
open, and afforded a good road for the waggons &c. At the S. E. end of 
the lake a post was established, and garrisoned by Major Cooper with his 
battalion ; here was left seventeen days' provision, and the wing with five 
days' provision proceeded to Tampa, where they arrived on the 5th. The 
last twenty miles the country was rough and difficult to travel ; the sick 
had increased to one hundred and fifty. Killed during the march, four, 
wounded, nine. 

About the middle of February, General Eustice despatched Major Kirby 



INDIANS. 231 

with two companies of regulars, and Colonel Brisbane with a battalion of 
S. C. volunteers, to scour the coast south of St. Augustine, as far as Mus- 
quito Inlet. They saw few of the enemy ; three men of Brisbane's were 
killed and scalped at Tomoko. 

On the 9th, Colonel Goodwin's regiment arrived at St. Augustine, and 
on the 15th, Colonel Butler was ordered to proceed down the coast, and put 
in motion the several corps for Volusia. The trails were so bad, and the 
country so wet, that it was the 22d before they generally reached the place 
of destination ; and Colonel Butler did not arrive until the 24th. 

On the 22d, Ashley and Trip's volunteers crossed the St. Johns, and 
were preparing to encamp, when one of the men in passing over a natural 
bank close at hand/was shot dead by the Indians, who rose from behind 
the bank and poured a galling fire on the volunteers ; they were answered 
with interest. Col. Brisbane, with two more companies, hastened to the 
scene of action, when a rapid charge dispersed the enemy, who left one of 
their dead on the ground, four more were by the Indians dragged to the 
river, and probably thrown in. Three of the volunteers were killed and nine 
wounded. The number of Indians seen, was about fifty. 

On the 24th, twenty-five men under Lieut Arnold, were sent out to scour 
the woods ; they fell in with fifteen Indians in the open pine woods, two were 
killed and the rest were permitted to escape. Arnold ordered a retreat, 
when the savages were in his power; for this cowardly conduct, he was 
dismissed. 

On the 26th the left wing crossed the river, except two companies of the 
South Carolina volunteers, under Major Gates, who were left to protect the 
post. The wing took up the line of march at one o'clock P. M. and pro- 
ceeded three miles and encamped; 27th marched eight miles. Thus far the 
roads are flat, wet and bad ; 28th they found the roads better, and marched 
twelve miles ; 29th marched twelve miles to the upper crossing of the Ock- 
lawaha, and built a pole bridge. The stream deep, about sixty feet wide. 
Lake Eustice about fifty rods above the crossing. 

A fire being discovered on the west side of the stream, a party was sent 
to reconnoitre ; four Indians were seen with some cattle, one was wounded 
by General Shelton, a volunteer from Georgia. The Indian fled but was 
overtaken by Shelton, when the savage raised his rifle and wounded him 
severely in the hip. He was soon despatched, and proved to be Yaha Hajo, 
or Crazy Wolf, chief of the Oclawahas. His village stood on the borders of 
the lake, but it had been for some time abandoned. The other three Indians 
escaped. The army encamped two miles west of the river. 

30th> Proceeded about nine miles, when the advanced guard were attack- 
ed by the Indians, concealed in a hammock near Oakhurnky; four men were 



232 INDIANS. 

wounded and two horses disabled. Kirby's regulars were brought up, the 
hammock was charged through by the advanced guard, but no Indians 
found. After passing a strip of pines, a fire was discovered near another 
thicket, where about sixty Indians in the edge of the woods, commenced a 
fire with rifles, which was returned with muskets. The enemy held their 
ground until the troops were within forty yards, they then retired, firing. 
A charge was made into the thicket, but it was found too close and too 
muddy to penetrate ; the battalion then joined in the line of march. 

31st. No Indians were seen this day; on6 hundred and twenty head of 
cattle were taken, and the army reached Pilacklakaha near evening. An 
express was sent to Fort King, who on his return, reported that Gen. Scott 
had crossed theOuithlacooche three days before, and that no provisions could 
be got there. Cattle were plenty about Pilacklakaha, this was Micanopys 
town, but it had been for some weeks abandoned. It was burned by order 
of the General. When cattle were first found, the Carolina troops made a 
free use of beef, but the General afterwards restricted them to regular ra- 
tions : in consequence of which, or from some other cause, the cattle were 
permitted to run away and provisions soon became scarce. On the 2d April 
the wing marched for Tampa. On the 4th they encamped fifteen miles 
from Tampa, where the baggage was left under charge of the foot com- 
panies, while the General with the horse proceeded to Fort Brook at Tam- 
pa Bay. 

Col. Lindsey arrived at Tampa about the 4th of March, with eight com- 
panies of Alabama volunteers, under Col. Chrisholrn ; where he found Maj. 
Reed, with a battalion of Florida militia, and on the 10th, Captain Marks 
arrived with a company of Louisiana volunteers. On the 12th, large fires 
were seen about the Allafia River ; Major Reed, with his battalion, was direct- 
ed to scour the woods in that direction, and give an account of the enemy. 
They executed the duty promptly, by attacking the savages in the night, 
killing three, capturing six, and driving the main body across the river. 

Col. Lindsey then marched to the Hillsborough crossing, on the road to 
Fort King, and built a stockade, which he named Fort Alabama. Major 
Reed was left in command, and the main force was marched back to Camp 
Brook. 

On his return, Col. Lindsey found at Fort Brook, Gen. Scott's plan of 
the campaign, and an order to be at Chicuchatty on the 25th, for the pur- 
pose of co-operating with the other wings. The order had been brought 
by some friendly Indians. In compliance with this order, he left Tampa 
on the 22nd. At Fort Alabama he was joined by Major Reed, and Capt. 
Marks, with the Louisiana volunteers, was left in command of the fort. 
About thirty sick were also left there. The great road was left to the 



INDIANS. 233 

right, and the wing marched over the hilly country to the north-west. 
After passing Elo Chute Ka, the Indians lay concealed in the numerous 
hammocks and thickets, and harrassed the flanks and rear of the wing. 
On the 26th one of the volunteers was killed, and another badly wounded ; 
as the force was passing through a dense hammock, the rear were briskly 
attacked by the enemy. Captain Benharn charged the savages, and was 
sustained by Major Talliafero, with Blount's company. The savages were 
soon driven from the hammock, but shewed themselves in a large body, 
dancing and yelling ; they were beyond the reach of our muskets. During 
the night the wing encamped by a pond ; while getting water, the men 
were constantly fired upon, from a hammock beyond the reach of our mus- 
kets ; a round of canister silenced them. On the 27th the wing sustained 
repeated attacks from thickets ; they w T ere soon repelled, but one man was 
killed and two wounded this day. On the 28th the wing encamped near 
Chicuchatty ; the Indians made an attempt to take the horses ; they were 
repulsed and driven off by detachments of the Florida and Alabama troops, 
under Captains Roulette, and Allison, Blount, and Nott. 

On the 30th, provisions becoming scarce, Captains Roulette and Tay- 
lor were sent, with two hundred and fifty men under Col. Cross, to forage. 
They procured beef for four days, but the men had neither bread nor salt. 
This day, the hostile chief, Charley Fiscico was killed by the friendly 
Indians. During the night, the sentinels were fired on ; the same thing 
occurred frequently. On the 31st another attempt was made to forage, 
but without success ; the Indians had driven all the cattle from the neigh- 
borhood. Colonel Lindsey had now remained at Chicuchatty eight days ; 
his signal guns had not been answered, and he was now destitute of provi- 
sions ; he was therefore obliged to fall back to Tampa, where he arrived on 
the 4th of April. 

Before the return of Colonel Lindsey, the enemy had collected at Fort 
Alabama to the number of three or four hundred, and made a violent attack 
on the post from eight o'clock in the morning till twenty minutes past ten, 
during which time they lost fifteen men killed and many wounded. Capt. 
Marks had one man killed and two wounded. They lay around the fort 
until the return of the main force, and then retreated in a body before them 
during a whole day. 

All the columns of the army rested in the neighborhood of Tampa, until 
the 12th of April, when the right wing, under General Clinch, w T as ordered 
to return to Fort Drane by the cove on Ouithlacooche. Colonel Lindsey, 
with the centre, to scour the country on the upper part of the river, and 
penetrate the forks from above. Colonel Smith, with the Louisiana volun- 
teers, to proceed to Charlotte Harbor, and ascend the Macaco, or Charlotte 

30 



234 INDIANS. 

River. Colonel Goodwin to march to Peas (Peace) Creek, and break up 
any settlements in that quarter. Major Reed to explore the mouth of the 
Ouithlacooche, and General Eustice, accompanied by General Scott, to 
return to Volusia. 

On the 17th, Generals Scott and Eustice reached Camp Shelton, where 
his foot troops had remained eleven days, most of the lime on half rations of 
pork and flour, which had created great displeasure among the troops. 
On the 18th he marched to the Hillsborough, at Fort Alabama ; 19th, 
marched 12 miles; 20th, they passed Colonel Lindsey's column at the 
Big Ouithlacooche ; 21st, marched 16 miles ; 22d, 18 miles, and encamp- 
ed four miles north of Dade's Eattle Ground ; 22d, marched 17 miles, and 
encamped two miles from the Ocklawaha : — the guard was fired upon this 
night without damage : — 23d, encamped nine miles east of the river ; 24th, 
pass the long scrub eighteen miles. On the morning of the 24th the 
wing reached Volusia. General Scott here took a steamboat and ran up 
the river to Lake Monroe, and returned on the 27th, reaching Picolata on 
the 28th. 

Colonel Goodwin's command marched about forty miles east of Tampa, 
and burned some large Indian villages on Peace Creek, containing three 
hundred huts, but they had been abandoned. He rejoined General Eus- 
tice at Fort Alabama. 

During the absence of Gen. Eustice, from Volusia, that post had been 
attacked by a large Indian force and two men killed. The discharge of a 
howitzer among them, set the Indians scampering and they were heard of 
no more. 

On the 26th, Gen. Clinch, with the right wing of the army reached Fort 
Drane without encountering the enemy. 

Col. Lindsey marched round the heads of the Ouithlacooche, while the 
Indians remained quietly in the forks ; of course he had no better success 
than Clinch, and returned to Tampa, without meeting an enemy. 

On the 26th, Col. Chrisbolm was sent, with six hundred troops to Fort 
Alabama, which it was determined to evacuate. Eighteen miles from that 
place, large Indian trails were discovered, apparently concentrating in a 
large hammock near Clonato LassoLake. Near the same spot, one of Gen. 
Eustice's men was found disinterred. On the 27th, fort Alabama was 
stripped and abandoned. A keg of powder was left, with a musket, whose 
spring triger was concealed in the magazine. The troops had proceeded about 
a mile, when a tremendous explosion proved that the enemy had entered 
the place and proved the fire-works. On reaching Clonato Lasso Creek, a 
regular soldier was found mutilated in a shocking manner, and stretched 
naked across the trail ; he had been intoxicated, and straggled from the line 



INDIANS. 235 

the day before. While a crowd was gazing at this body, a galling fire was 
opened from the hammock, first on the guard, then on the crowd collected 
about the dead body ; it directly extended to the artillery, and to the rear 
guard, near half a mile in extent. The first fire killed some brave men ; 
caused the team horses to run away with the wagons, and created some 
confusion. The fire was however returned from every part of the line, and 
the field piece was run up to the hammock and fired among the enemy 
with great effect. The hammock was then charged in every direction, and 
in one hour the enemy were completely driven and silenced. The detach- 
ment marched five miles farther and encamped wholly unmolested. 

The Alabama troops were soon after embarked for Mobile. 

Col. Smith proceeded up the Macaco River instead of the Peace, which 
enters Charlotte Harbor, near the same place. After ascending the largest 
branch as far as the boats could go, he then proceeded by land several 
days, on the south side, through a pine barren country, but discovered no 
Indians; he therefore returned to the harbor and embarked for New Orleans. 

Mejor Reed made a reconnoisance off the coast, at the mouth of the 
Ouithlacooche and then returned to St. Marks. 

Thus ended the winter campaign of 1836. The regulars were ordered 
to summer quarters, and the volunteers discharged and sent home. 

Shortly after the close of the Campaign, Gen. Clinch resigned his com- 
mission and retired to his family, at St. Marys in Georgia 

At this period of our history, our readers may inquire for the causes that 
gave rise to this Seminole war, and the reasons of the failure of a campaign, 
commanded by one of the most conspicuous Generals of the United States ; 
a campaign that cost more than a million of dollars, and many valuable 
lives — and resulted in the devastation of a valuable and highly improving 
district of country. 

In order to settle these questions, it will be necessary to take a retrospect- 
ive view of several facts in our civil his tor}', which have heretofore been 
omitted. 

When East and West Florida were purchased from Spain, they contain- 
ed only two settlements of any consequence, Pensacola, at the western ex- 
tent of West Florida, and St. Augustine, at the eastern extent of East 
Florida. Between these two towns, the distance is four hundred miles ; the 
intermediate space was occupied by the nation of Seminole Indians. There 
was no means of communication from one to the other, of these towns, ex- 
cept by water, through the Gulf of Mexico, a distance of one thousand miles. 
These facts suggested the idea of attaching West Florida to the state of 
Alabama, and East Florida to Georgia ; and much interest was used to ac- 
complish this arrangement. To this division of the new purchase, however, 



236 INDIANS. 

the General Government, as well as a majority of the inhabitants of the 
country, were opposed. It was therefore proposed to remove the Indians 
from the middle district of the Territory, to locate therein a common seat of 
Government, and to cover the country as soon as possible, with an efficient 
population. To this end commissioners were appointed to hold a treaty 
with the Seminoles, to induce them to give up their settlements west of the 
Suwanne River, and to locate themselves on the eastern peninsula. The 
treaty was held at Camp Moultrie, five miles south of St. Augustine, in 
1823. 

This treaty bound the Seminoles to remove from the country west of the 
Suwanne River, and confine themselves to a district of the eastern peninsula, 
that was afterwards surveyed to them. In consideration of which, the 
United States agreed to grant them an annuity of five thousand dollars per 
annum, for twenty years ; and tools, subsistence &c. to six thousand men. 
This arrangement was strongly opposed by Micanopy, the legitimate and 
hereditary chief of the Seminoles, and by Jumper his brother-in-law. Nea- 
mathla, and most of the Mickasookees, were also opposed to leaving the 
rich fields which they occupied on the borders of the Mickasookee Lake, and 
Oscilla River. Hicks, however, was disposed to remove, and his influence, 
together with several reservations, made to Neamathla, Bacca, Pechasse, 
E. Conchatte, Micco, and Colonel Blunt, procured the signatures of nearly 
all the chiefs. Micanopy utterly refused, and was by the commissioners 
treated with that indifference, that rendered him unpopular with his nation ; 
while Hicks was encouraged to assume the chief authority. 

Soon after the Indians were condensed within their limits, they experi- 
enced a scarcity of food ; they were too idle to clear up and cuiiivate new 
land ; game was scarce, and from moving about, they became indisposed 
to labor. The Government extended their boundaries, and once or twice, 
furnished them with provisions ; but more than half the donations made 
to them, stuck in the pockets of the agents. 

Difficulties soon arose between them and their white neighbors, about 
their cattle, ponies, and negroes, and some legislative acts were passed to 
prevent any intercourse between the white and red men. These acts, ten- 
ded rather to increase than to allay the prevailing animosities, and the 
Government came to a determination to remove all the Indians across the 
Mississippi. For the purpose of disposing of the Seminoles, Colonel Gads- 
den was commissioned to hold another council with them, and endeavor to 
remove them altogether. To this end a treaty was obtained at Payne's 
Landing, on the 9th of May, 1832. 

The great objections made to removing, were their ignorance of the 
country proposed to them, their doubts of security there, and their repug- 



INDIANS. 237 

nance to being incorporated among the Creeks, who still held out claims 
against them, for negroes alleged to have been stolen by the Seminoles • 
and perhaps a fear of losing the distinction of an independent nation, espe- 
cially the chiefs, who would necessarily be shorn of power and distinction. 

The Commissioner assured them, that the country on the Arkansaw 
was a good one ; that the title to the soil, should be secured to them, and 
their descendants forever ; that their nation, although it must become a 
constituent part of the Creeks, yet that their chiefs should be continued as 
their public officers, and their property should be secured. They finally 
agreed to send a deputation of their chiefs, to examine the tract of country 
proposed for their residence, and further, that if on the return of the deputa- 
tion, they reported favorably, and to their satisfaction, that then, the follow- 
ing articles should be binding on them, viz : 

1st. The Seminole Nation relinquish to the United States, the tract of 
country reserved to them, by the second article of the treaty of Camp 
Moultrie, and become a constituent part of the Creek nation. One third part 
of the nation, residing in and about the Big Swamp, to remove as early 
as practiable in 1833 ; one third in 1834, and one third in 1835. 

2d. The United States to pay to the Seminoles, for the improvements 
which they abandon, fifteen thousand four hundred dollars, and also to 
Abraham, the interpreter, and to Cudjoe, both free and influential negroes, 
two hundred dollars each. 

3d. Each Seminole to be supplied with a blanket, a homespun frock, and 
with corn, meat, and salt, for one year after their arrival at the place as- 
signed them. 

4th. To be furnished a blacksmith, at one thousand dollars per annum, 
and a schoolmaster. 

5th. The United States to pay the Seminoles three thousand per annum, 
for fifteen years, succeeding the treaty, in addition to the annuity of four 
thousand dollars, agreed on at Camp Moultrie, making in all seven thou- 
sand per annum. 

6th. The United States agree to investigate, and liquidate all claims on 
the Seminoles for negroes, to the amount of seven thousand dollars. 

This conditional treaty was signed by 

Hoi ate Emathla. — Leader, or go before. 

Jump er. — Hoilkle-matte. 

Black Dirt. — Fucta lusie Ilajo. 

Charley Emathla. 

Alligator. — Coa Hajo. 

Sam Jones. — Arpiuka. 

Mad Wolf. — Yaha Hajo. 



238 INDIANS. 

Micanopy. — Pond Governor, principal chief. 
John Hicks. — Tokasa Amathle. 
Little Cloud. — Calsha Tuslenugge. 
Blue King. — Holate JMicco. 
Broken Stick. — HUchitti Micco. 
Buzzard. — Enchah. 

Wolf Leader. — Yaha Emathla Chopko. 
Sleeper. — JWoke Js She Larni. 
Holate Emathla, Jumper, Black Dirt, Charley Emathla, Alligator, Sam 
Jones, and Mad Wolf, were sent under the direction of Major Phagan, the 
Indian agent, to explore the country ; while the United States sent three 
commissioners* to meet them there, and attend them in the examination of 
the country. When the Deputation were ready to return, the commission- 
ers induced them to sign, what General Jackson called " an agreement, by 
which they signified their satisfaction on these subjects, and finally ratified 
the agreement, made with Colonel Gadsden." Neither the Seminole dele- 
gation, nor the nation ever considered it in that light. The chiefs reported 
to their people on their return, that, the land was good, but it was situate 
near the Pawnees, and other thieving Indians, who robbed them of their 
horses and packs, and they feared that their situation would be unsafe. 
That the distance was great, and that removing would be troublesome, and 
dangerous. 

In the course of this examination and the incidents connected with it, 
the time had elapsed, in which, by the terms of the treaty, one-third of the 
Indians were to have removed. In 1834, Hicks, the friendly chief, was 
destroyed by some of his countrymen, that were jealous of, or dissatisfied 
with him, and it is said, that the agent dictated to the Indians the choice of 
Tustinuc Hajo, a half-breed, instead of Charley Emathla, who was a man 
much better in every point of view ; in particular, he was friendly to the 
whites, and a good man. Tustinuc, on the contrary, was sullen, obstinate, 
and has ever been our enemy. Major Phagan was, in 1834, superseded by 
General Thompson, as Agent of the Seminoles. In October, 1834, Gen. 
Thompson called a council of the chiefs to inquire whether they would 
join with the Creeks at the west ; — whether they would be paid for the 
cattle and poneys which they must leave in Florida, in money, or have 
them replaced in Arkansas after their removal; — whether they would re- 
move by water or by land ; — and whether their next annuity should be 
paid in money or in goods. With the exception of Holate Emathla, they 
answered that they were unwilling to go at all. Holate here appeared as 

* Montford Stokes, H. L. Ellsworth, and J. T. Schermerhorn. 



INDIANS. 239 

the speaker of the nation. Micanopy appeared to act under the control of 
Powel and Jumper. Thus the affairs of the Seminoles remained until 
April, 1835, when another council of the Indians was called by General 
Thompson, General Clinch, and Lieutenant Harris. There was great dif- 
ficulty in collecting them. When collected, the chiefs shuffled and made 
every excuse to avoid the subject of removal, until General Clinch told 
them that they talked too much and did nothing. He said the time was 
now come to declare whether they would abide by the treaty they had all 
agreed to, or not ; — he waited for a final answer. Eight out of the thir- 
teen chiefs present, reluctantly agreed to remove, five utterly refused ; 
among the latter was Micanopy, who left the council. Those who agreed 
to remove, begged to remain until they should collect their harvest. This 
was conceded to them, on condition of the whole nation removing at once, 
and the 1st of December was appointed as the time of removal. 

The chiefs also petitioned the government, to pemit them to live separate 
from the Creeks, on the opposite side of the Canadian branch, and lhat they 
might have an agent to reside with them* The government agreed to the 
first request, but decided that one agent must serve the Creeks and Semi- 
noles. From this period a deadly enmity was apparent, between the Indians 
who agreed to remove, headed by Holate and Charley Emathla, and those 
who were opposed, headed by Powel and Jumper, who threatened death to 
the first that should attempt to remove. Had means been used to remove the 
Seminoles as soon as the deputies retir.ied, there is no reason to believe that 
any opposition would have been made ; but two years delay opened a wide 
field for tampering with the ignorant savages. Part of the Creeks were op- 
posed to emigration. Their agents told the Seminoles, that when removed 
to the west of the Mississippi, they should reclaim the slaves which had 
been carried from the Creek nation to Florida. 

The State of Georgia claimed 250,000 dollars of the Creek Indians, for 
slaves stolen from them, or for the runaway slaves harbored among them. 
One hundred thousand of this claim has been allowed, and affords a claim 
on the Seminoles from which they dread a collision. Great exertions have 
also been made, to get the Indian negroes away, by other false claims, 
of individuals ; and under cover of these claims, many negroes have 
been taken away by force and fraud. There exists a law among 
the Seminoles, forbidding individuals from selling their negroes to white 
people ; and any attempt to evade that law, has always raised great 
commoiions among them. In 1835, Gen. Call asked permission of the 
President, to purchase of the Indians, one hundred and fifty negroes ; Presi- 

* The treaty with the Seminoles, promised them a particular portion of the country of 
the Creeks. But the treaty with the Creeks authorized the location of the Seminoles 
among them — no separate district of land. 



240 INDIANS. 

dent Jackson granted this permission. The agent in a letter to the Secretary 
at War, expostulated in a very strong terms against this traffic, as against 
the policy and laws of the Seminoles ; as unjust to the Creeks, and as hav- 
ing a tendency to set the negroes in opposition to a removal ; and it was 
well known that their influence with the Indians is usually conclusive. 

The Seminole negroes, for the most part, live separately from their mas- 
ters, and manage their stocks and crops as they please, giving such share 
of the produce to their masters as they like. Being thus supplied, the In- 
dians become idle and absolutely dependant upon their slaves. No one 
will suppose that negroes, thus situated, would be transferred to the sugar 
and cotton fields of the white planters, without exerting their influence with 
their nominal masters, to oppose it. Peace and idleness, had rendered the 
young warriors restless, their minds were easily excited, and their first efforts 
at hostilities, were excited by the whites ; being successful, and never being 
brought to punishment, or at most, but a nominal punishment ; they also 
tended to confirm the leading chiefs in their determination to fight, rather 
than to abandon their homes. To these causes, may be added the counsels of 
evil minded persons, who took pains to impress upon the heated minds of 
the savages, that they were cheated by the white people ; that they alone 
had a right to the soil, and ought to resist oppression. 

When the Indians had commenced burning houses and murdering the 
inhabitants, there was no force in Florida, sufficient to control or coerce 
them. This was the fault of the government. In Jan. 1834, one hundred 
of the inhabitants of Allachua, sent a respectful petition to the President, 
representing the hostile appearance of the Indians, and praying for protection 
against them. In Oct. of the same year, Gen. Thompson, the agent, ad- 
vised the Secretary at War that the Seminoles utterly refused to remove or 
adhere to the treaty of Payne's Landing, and urged an immediate reinforce- 
ment of troops, at Fort King and at Tampa Bay. In Nov. (same year) 
Col. Gadsden advised the Secretary at War — " You cannot, therefore, in 
the opinion of the undersigned, too soon, either re-occupy the Bay of Tam- 
pa, or re-inforce Camp King, so that, by a show of military strength, you 
may demonstrate the ability, promptly to enforce the final resolves of the 
government." Gen. Clinch also urged the certainty that the Indians 
H would not go, unless a respectable force be employed, and that it is very 
probable that such force would have to be actually used, in effecting the 
object." In Jan. 1835, the agent again informs the Secretary at War, that 
the troops are utterly insufficient to protect the country and the friendly In- 
dians ; that the hostile savages grow bolder by impunity ; that a " strong 
force is required." In Oct., Mr. Harris, the Dispensing Agent, confirms 
the state of hostile feelings, and tells Secretary Cass, that, "an increase of 






INDIANS. 241 

military force at Fort King: is necessary, say, from two to four companies." 
From the above advice, the government were fully aware, that the Semi- 
noles openly refused to leave Florida ; that they determined to make war 
on the whites ; that a large military' force was necessary to overcome them, 
and to protect the inhabitants of Florida and the friendly Indians. 

And what did the Government do 1 They ordered six additional com- 
panies to Florida ; the first of which arrived at Tampa Bay, from Key 
West, on the 21st of December 1835, two more companies followed about 
the last of the month, and the other three companies arrived about the 9th 
February, 1836. Of the seven companies, stationed in the Peninsula, du- 
ring the year 1835, there was scarcely at one time, two hundred and fifty 
men, fit for service. 

At the battle of Ouithlacooche, the six companies led into battle by Gen. 
Clinch, amounted only to one hundred and ninety-five men, instead of three 
hundred and thirty. The other companies sent to make up the fourteen, 
were equally deficient. Dade's company, the first that arrived, consisted 
of thirty nine men, instead of fifty five. To meet all the deficiencies and 
emergencies of removing, against their will, a nation of savages, the gov- 
ernment furnished — to the ear — fourteen companies of regular soldiers — or 
seven hundred and seventy men ; to the eye, they diwindled down to four 
hundred. But these never appeared till the battle was fought and the 
question of removal decided against us. Thus much for the causes of the 
war. We will now seek for the causes of the failures of the campaign. 

And first in the numerous list, was the appointment of a commandei, who 
had very little, if any, experience in Indian warfare, and was utterly unac- 
quainted with the country. In opposing a civilized enemy, General Scott 
would probably have been successful, but among savages he was out of 
his latitude. 

The campaign was commenced too late in the season. The stores and 
munitions of war did not generally arrive until late in the winter. The 
season was wet and the roads very bad, as they always are in a new coun- 
try. All these circumstances tended to delay active operations until the 
beginning of Spring. There was a strange want of every useful informa- 
tion. The number of the enemy was not known ; their resources and 
means of supporting a contest with the whites, were utterly mistaken. 
Their paths through the swamps were wholly unknown ; they could never 
be brought to an engagement, except at such time and place as they saw 
proper to intrude themselves. Their strong holds, where their ammunition 
and their children were secreted, are not known to this day. The num- 
bers of the Florida Indians have usually been rated at three thousand, 
when, in fact, they amounted to near five thousand. 

31 



242 INDIANS. 

The inhabitants of several large settlements around the Caximba Inlet, 
the heads of the Hujelos, St. Mary's, and other southern streams, never 
appeared at the agency, to draw annuities, but lived by cultivating their 
fields, hunting, trading at the Spanish ranchos, bartering skins, mocking 
birds and pet squirrels, for guns, ammunition and clothing, and sometimes 
assisting in the fisheries. This race of Indians would have remained peace- 
able to this day, had not an order been issued from the agency requiring 
them all to remove. The}' never agreed to remove, either personally, or by 
their representatives ; and they were easily excited to fight, rather than 
leave the home of their ancestors. Their knowledge of the passes of the 
country, and their long connection with the Spanish tiaders and fishermen 
afforded perfect facilities for supplying the Seminoles with arms and mu- 
nitions of war, and those facilities are at this time improved to our great 
injury. 

Had General Clinch been at once permitted to assist General Gaines at 
the Ouithlacooche, it is more than probable that an end would have been 
put to the war. The enemy would have been beaten, or forced south upon 
Colonel Lindsey, and they could scarcely have escaped. The excuse is, 
that there was not provisions at Fort Drane to supply them and to subsist 
General Scott's army on its arrival. But the provisions actually taken by 
General Clinch, at last, were principally corn, raised by himself, and cattle 
belonging to the inhabitants of Allachua. A few barrels of pork, and per- 
haps a small quantity of bread, was taken from the public stores. But 
delay had rendered the assistance of General Clinch utterly useless. 

General Gaines undoubtedly entered Florida from the best of motives. 
His troops were actuated by feelings of humanity for the suffering inhabi- 
tants of the country ; but Powel had the art to render them inefficient, and 
finally to hoax him with the pretence of a treaty, and. thus evaded a 
second stroke from Clinch. 

General Scott's plan of the campaign contemplated a junction of the three 
columns in the heart of the enemy's country. Each column approached 
the place of its destination, but no junction was formed. The Indians, 
instead of being penned up in their towns, had ample time to give each 
wing of the army a brush in succession, and then quietly waited till the 
storm passed by them. Had General Eustice, when he reached the Tam- 
pa road, proceeded ten miles down the forks of the Ouithlacooche, he would 
have entered the nest, the strong hold of the savages. Here was corn and 
beef without going to Fort King and Tampa. 

The Seminoles since the commencement of the war, have concentrated 
about the great cove of Ouithlacooche ; when sought there, they have al- 
ways been found, until General Jessup's last campaign, when they aban- 



INDIANS. 243 

vloned it for the everglades. It was there that Clinch, and Gaines, and 
Scott, and Call, found them. Why then was not the war carried on, at least 
as long as an enemy could be found 1 the answer is, that the army had 
only ten days' provision ; but a part could have staid and fought, while the 
balance should escort the wagons of provisions, either from Tampa, sixty 
miles, or from Volusia, fifty miles distant. There was corn also at Halli- 
man's Blockhouse, thirty miles distant. Instead of that, the several wings 
all left the battle ground, and marched in succession to Tampa, and there 
spent one half of the month appropriated for the campaign, comfortably 
drawing rations. Major Cooper, was indeed left near the scene of active 
warfare, with a single battalion of men, who found enemies enough to fight 
during the whole time. What might not one thousand of the force have 
done, had they been left to scour the country, under the command of Gene- 
ral Clinch, or any other active commander. 

The order given to General Scott, was to fight the Indians as long as a 
man of them could be found in Florida. Emboldened by this, the inhabi- 
tants of Allachua, and the adjoining country, proceeded again, to the culti- 
vation of their fields. Their cottages were again enlivened, by women and 
children, " hope told a flattering tale" to the industrious farmer. How 
were his hopes withered, when, at the end of one month, he sees another 
order, dismissing the volunteers, and throwing the regulars inlo summer 
quarters. Was this pursuing the enemy out of the country 1 was it not 
letting them loose upon the country, with tenfold rage ? The country was 
again depopulated, and fire and devastation swept the fields of the suffer- 
ing Floridians. 

About the first of May, Generals Scott and Eustice, took up their quar- 
ters at St. Augustine. Four companies were left at Tampa Bay, and ten 
or twelve were distributed between Fort King, Fort Drane, Fort Defiance, 
Fort Dobney, and Suwanne Old Town. 

About the middle of March, at the commencement of General Scott's 
campaign, he ordered Major M. Lemore to proceed to the Suwanne River, 
to procure a quantity of corn, and proceed with it to the Ouithlacooche 
River, for the use of the army. 

Major M. Lemore executed the order, and erected a small blockhouse 
for its protection, leaving Captain Halliman with a small party to defend it, 
until the General should send for the corn, and relieve them. But the Ge- 
neral appears to have forgotten them. Major M. Lemore died within a 
few days. On the 12th of April, Captain Halliman was attacked by a 
large Indian force, at the dawn of day ; depending on their overwhelming 
force, the Indians approached within point blank distance of rifle shot, but 
the execution done among them, soon taught them to keep at a more re- 



244 INDIANS. 

spectful distance. The Indians continued to surround, and besiege them 
for two months, and made more than twenty attacks on the post, but were 
always repelled. On the 13th of April, Eli Sealy was killed, and on ihe 
3d of May, Captain Halliman was shot, while engaged in strengthening the 
defence of the post. The command then devolved on Lieutenant Walker, 
who continued bravely to defend the place. On the 15th of April, the 
whole body of Indians, from five hundred to one thousand, made an onset 
upon the post, for two hours and forty-five minutes, but made no impres- 
sion. On the 24th, they made another severe attack, and set fire to the 
roof of the blockhouse by lighted arrows, shot by twenty-six Indians, which 
was finally destroyed ; they also cut loose the fiat and let it diift down the 
river. Four or five men were also wounded. The garrison were twenty- 
eight days without any thing except corn to eat, and nearly a month with- 
out any roof to shelter them. When Major, now General Reed passed the 
mouth of the Ouithlacooche, at the close of the campaign, he discovered 
the flat cut in pieces. From this time, it was generally supposed that the 
Garrison were destroyed, and the excitement through the Territory was 
very great. General Scott endeavored to cast the blame on Major Reed, 
but took no measures to look after the garrison. On the the night of the 
]0th it was determined to attempt sending an account of their situation to 
Tallahasse. To this end, three men were drawn by lot, from the garrison ; 
an old canoe was got afloat that had been riddled by rifle balls, they enter- 
ed it, and pushed down the river as silently as possible, while they heard 
the Indians running down the banks on both sides to intercept them. Fa- 
vored by the darkness, they escaped and reached the Gulf before daylight. 
The Indians fired on them near the mouth of the Suwanne River, but their 
balls did not take effect. 

On their arrival at Tallahasse, a volunteer company was raised, amount- 
ing to about eighty men, of which Colonel Reed took command ; they embark- 
ed on the steamboat Minerva, on the 22d of May, and arrived off the mouth 
of the Ouithlacooche the next day. In the evening, they ascended the river 
in a large barge, and reached the fort about midnight. After taking the 
little garrison on board, they descended the river again, and reached the 
steamboat by eight o'clock the next morning. The distance to the Block- 
house, was fifteen miles from the mouth of the river. Since that period, 
General Reed has published a satisfactory defence against the censures of 
General Scott, on the above subject. 

About the 1st of May, the Indians made an attack on the plantation of 
Judge Randal, about twenty miles east of Tallahasse, where they took 
some negroes, and did other damage. On the 8th, they were seen near the 
fort of St. Mark's. This boldness of the enemy, was a natural consequence 



INDIAN; 245 

of the disbanding of the militia, which left the whole country unprot-: 
It is true, that the citizens flew to arms and pursued the savages, but 
they ac'ed on their own responsibility, and could continue in the field no 
longer thai. . _ .Jered it necessary for self-defence. 

The month :■:' M: ;. was principally occupied by our troops, in conve 

provisions.. - from Blat ; forte King, Drane, and Defiance. 

her grew warmer, the troops became ver; .zd it 

ind to be impossible to supply ens, with the teams then 

provided for that service, and rm order was sent to abandon Fort King 

- ecordingly done on the last of the month The troops became 

more sickly as the season advance ; Heilitnan was appointed to 

the command of the troops west of the St. ' 5 wex, about the fit 

and General Scott was ordered to Georgia, to take the command of 
the forces sen: to subdue the Creeks. 

Major Heiiiman proceeded to Micanopy. about the eighth of June, on his 
Tiere he halted for the day. and sent off an express 
to Oakland, the plantation of Colonel M'Intosh. to Lieutenant Burke, who 
- 5 ationed there, to destroy all "... :.: that place, and retire tc Mi- 

canopy with his company. The ex td proceeded about half a mile, 

when he was f. Lieutenant Talcot observed it, and being outside 

the pick took about a dozen men with him. and ran to support 

the m sjes rectly observed several Indians and negroes, and 

two other parties of the enemy were seen in different 
tions. Lieutenants Wbeelock, and Humphries, collected their command, 
and pursued about two miles : juld not overtake the enemy. Tin 

was again sent. He returned with the intelhgence, that on the 7th, 
the Indians, about two hundred in number, had burnt the sugar ho - 

;al Clinch, and had attacked Oakland, and burned the sugar house of 
Colon-'. Iflnl ash. Lieutenant Burke, retired from Oakland to Fort Drane, 
Major Heiiiman concluded to halt at Micanopy. until the post could be rein- 
forced. On the 9th. about nine o'clock in the morning, the Indians fired 
two rifles, and shortly after two more, about a quarter of a mile from the 
fort, near the Oakland road, where the express on the day before had been 
fired on. Major Heiiiman considered it a challange, and un willing to disap- 
point the savages, he despatched Captain Lee to attack them on the right, 
and Lieutenant Wheelock with bis few Dragoons, on the left. Shortly 
afterwards, he ordered Lieutenant Humphries to move down, and attack 
their centre. Captain Lee, some paces in advance, soon found himself close 
to the enemy, who were watching the movements of Wheelock ; they turn- 
ed and fired on Lee, and wounded him severely. His men immediately 
came to his ass. stance, but he ordered them to push on after the enemy, 



246 INDIANS. 

who were retiring before Humphries and Wheelock, who had opened a 
brisk fire on them. The Indians continued to retreat, till they entered the 
hammock on the east side of the Tuscowellar Lake. 

Major Heiliman started with a six-pounder after Humphries ; but a mes- 
senger came from the fort, and stated that the Indians were threatening the 
fort on the opposite side. He therefore marched back, but found that it was 
a false alarm ; he immediately again sent forward the artillery, in time to 
prevent the enemy from turning the left flank, which was still at some dis- 
tance from the hammock. A few rounds of grape sent the red skins out of 
sight, and the troops retired to the fort. Lieutenant Wheelock, had five 
men wounded ; one mortally. Captain Lee had one wounded. Four 
horses were killed, and six disabled, in this affair. Seventy-five men were 
engaged. 

When Lieut. Burke arrived at Fort Drane, from Oakland, and informed 
the commandant that the stores were nut destroyed, Lieut. Temple took 
eighteen horsemen and marched down to that post in the night. On enter- 
ing the plantation, he discovered the dwelling house on fire, but the store 
houses, filled with corn, sugar, &c, were standing. He left the main body 
of his men in the lane, four hundred yards from the house, and proceeded 
with four men to the ruins, and seizing a brand from the fire, he soon lit up 
the store houses ; while doing this, an Indian dog barked, and Indians were 
heard to talk. Temple, however, staid till the flames were too far advan- 
ced to be extinguished ; he then retired to his troop, mounted and rode off 
at full speed, and barely reached the hammock as the Indians arrived to in- 
tercept them. 

On the 10th, Wheelock's dragoons were marched to Fort Drane, and 
returned on the 15th with provisions, attended by Lieut. Burk's company, 
that were intended to reinforce Fort Defiance. That afternoon Lieutenant 
Wheelock retired to a room and shot himself. He had complained of illness, 
and it was supposed that his fatiguing duties had rendered him delirious ; 
he was much regretted by the army, who buried him with the honors of 
war. 

Soon after these events, Major Heiliman died at Micanopy. He had 
been ill for several weeks, but still pursued his arduous duties, until the 
cords of life gave way, and the army lost one of her bravest and most 
efficient officers. May his ashes rest in peace, and justice do honor to his 
name. He was brevetted a Lieut. Colonel for his meritorious services, but 
he died before the arrival of his commission. 

As the season advanced, sickness continued to increase among the troops 
at Fort Drane and Fort Defiance. Every escort of wagons from Black 
Creek disabled from twenty to forty men, until they were so far reduced, 



INDIANS. 247 

that a company of six month's men, stationed at Mandarin, on the east side 
of the St. Johns, commanded by Captain Curry, -were ordered to assist in 
escorting the wagon train, which being represented to Governor Call he 
ordered Fort Drane to be evacuated. About the 19th of July the place was 
abandoned. Twenty-two wagons loaded with Quarter Master's stores, 
escorted by sixty-two men, left the place about eight o'clock in the morning. 
Twenty-six dragoons of the 2d regiment were commanded by Captain 
Ashley : thirty-six men detached from several artillery companies, and a 
five and half inch howitzer, under the command of Lieutenant Whitely. 
On passing the We-li-ka Pond, one mile from Micanopy, several rifles were 
discharged, which proved fatal to one of the dragoons, named Holmes. 

Captain Ashley immediately charged into the hammock from which 
the firing proceeded, but the enemy had fled. The train proceeded unmo- 
lested within a quarter of a mile of the fort, when they were again attack- 
ed by a strong body of the enemy, supposed to be two hundred and fifty in 
number. They poured a galling fire in on the front and right of the train, a 
quarter of a mile in extent. The fire was returned with great promptness 
and the battle raged for some time. Captain Ashley was wounded, but re- 
fused to leave the ground ; he, however, despatched a dragoon to the fort 
for a reinforcement. The dragoon was met by two detachments, led by 
Lieuts. Temple and Talcot, amounting to thirty-one men. Their arrival 
turned the tide of the contest. Lieutenant Temple charged the point of 
hammock from which the heaviest fire proceeded ; he then formed in line, 
and Captain Ashley then ordered a general charge, which decided the 
affair. The Indians fled and were seen no more. During the charge 
Lieutenant Talcot conducted the wagons to the Fort in safety. Captain 
Ashley sustained the action till loss of blood from his wound rendered it 
absolutely necessary for him to retire. Lieutenant Whitely rendered excel- 
lent service with the howitzer ; several of his men were wounded. Sur- 
geon Weightman was shot through the thigh. Five were dangerously 
wounded ; four severely and one slightly. The loss of the enemy could 
not be ascertained. Three horses were killed and several wounded. The 
worst consequences resulting from the abandonment of these posts, was the 
loss of ten or twelve thousand bushels of corn fit to harvest, in the fields of 
Gen. Clinch and Col. M'Intosh, which the extreme sickness of the troops 
rendered them unable to destroy. This was a clear acquisition to the 
enemy, and will help to sustain them through another campaign. 

All the improvements east of the St. Johns River, and south of St. Au- 
gustine and Picolata had, at this time, been destroyed, and the same fate 
had befallen the settlements on the west side of the St. Johns, south of 
Garey's Ferry and Newnansville. The green corn dance had been ceie- 



248 INDIANS. 

brated by the Seminoles, and parties of warriors had gone forth to distin. 
guish themselves by soma bold exploit.* About thirty warriors passed 
between Picolata and St. Augustine on the 16th of July, and proceeded 
round the head of Six Mile Creek to New Switzerland, twenty miles with- 
in our lines. Col. Hallowes and one other white person resided at the 
plantation. Some little negro children ran into the house early in the 
morning, and cried that the Indians were in the grove. Col. Hallowes 
arose and dressed himself, and sent one of his slaves to the next plantation, 
about two miles below, for several of his negroes who were at work ; soon 
after, while standing in his hall, he was laid senseless by a ball which pass- 
ed through his ear and struck his skull. He soon recovered, and he and 
the other person, with some of the negroes, ran out of the house, leaped 
into a boat and pushed from the shore, amidst a shower of balls. The ne- 
groes below had entered their boat and pushed from the shore, when they 
discovered an Indian with one of their fellow-servants running down the 
shore to intercept them ; they crossed the river and joined their master, 
when they discovered the steamboat Essayon, Captain Peck, coming out 
of Black Creek ; they entered the boat, and were conveyed to Picolata. 
Col. Hallowes' wound proved not to be dangerous. 

Lieutenant Taylor, in command at Picolata, despatched an express to 
Col. Crane, at St. Augustine, advising that a company should be despatch- 
ed to New Switzerland, by Six Mile Creek, to cut off the retreat of the 
savages ; while he, at the same time, despatched Lieutenant Watson, with 
eighteen men, to the landing on Six Mile Creek, to intercept them there. 
He proceeded to some distance on the trail towards New Switzerland, that 
evening, and lay upon the trail ; the next morning he proceeded, but his 
guide led him into a swamp on Trout. Creek, and said he had lost the way. 
After getting out of the swamp he returned to the landing place for pro- 
visions, but the boat was gone. The corporal and four men left in charge 
of her, got frightened and returned to Picolata. Major Putnam, on the 17th, 
arrived at Picolata with Dummet's mounted volunteers ; they returned the 
same day, seven miles to "Weedman's, near the head of Six Mile Creek. 
On the next morning they proceeded towards New Switzerland, until they 
fell in with Lieutenant Watson. They then returned to St. Augustine, 
and Watson proceeded to Picolata. 

Captain Peck, with the steamboat, returned immediately to the planta- 
tion of Col. Hallowes ; the Indians had gone back with their plunder, 
about three miles, to a cedar swamp, and left all but one of the negroes be- 
hind. To a negro named Harry, they gave a gun, and placed him on the 

* They shot Mr. Ridgley, proprietor of the steam saw-mill, about the last of May. 



INDIANS. 249 

river bank, to keep watch. On the approach of the Essayon, he called to 
Captain Peck, and informed him that the Indians were near. The Cap- 
tain, however, ran his boat on shore and took off all the negroes but one, 
that the Indians had with them. The negroes stated that they first plun- 
dered the house and then burned it. They then proceeded to Mr. Colts' 
and Dr. Simmonds' houses, and plundered and burned them. The amount 
of plunder obtained at Col. Hallowes' probably amounted to the value of 
two thousand dollars. How long they were collecting horses and carrying 
away their booty, no one can tell. The force at Picolata was barely suffi- 
cient to protect the place, and Curry's volunteers were on the way to Mi- 
canopy, escorting the wagon train. 

On the 28th of July in the morning, large fires were seen on the west side 
of the St. Johns, in the direction of Travers' Plantation. The Essayon 
started about eight o'clock for Black Creek ; on coming in sight of Col. 
Travers' plantation, the dwelling-house and kitchen were nearly demolish- 
ed. Captain Peck ran in shore close to the smoking ruins, but there was 
not an Indian to be seen ; — they had all gone back to the sugar-works, 
half a mile distant. Soon after retiring from the shore, the flames of the 
mill-house arose through the trees, and in half an hour after that, a huge 
column of flame arose from the boiling-house. Thus sank in flames, the 
fortunes of a man, who with a most interesting family, deserved a better 
fate. The volunteers had before destroyed his stock. 

As the boat passed the steam mill of the lamented Ridgley, Captain 
Peck discovered Indians, and fired a volley upon them ; they retired, and 
the boat proceeded to Garey's Ferry. 

Before the Essayon left Picolata, she towed across the river to Bayard, 
the flats, containing Lieutenant Herbert, and fifteen men, with forty horses, 
which they were conveying from St. Augustine to Garey's Ferry, by land. 
Lieutenant Herbert saw the fires, and was assured that the enemy were 
below ; he however, proceeded unmolested to Black Creek, and returned 
with his men, to Picolata in the Essayon ; he communicated to Captain 
Peck, and to his Sergeant, his intention of landing where the enemy had 
been seen the day before. The boat started at eight in the evening, fell 
down the creek five miles, and took in wood, and lay there till daylight, 
when she started and reached the mouth of the creek by six in the morn- 
ing. One of the hands said that he saw a man come out of the steam 
mill on the right bank. Capt. Peck ordered the boat to come too, and com- 
menced landing ; the boat's yawl could take but nine persons at a load. 
Lieutenant Herbert's intention was to march by land to Traver's plantation, 
a distance of two miles, as soon as the rest of his men could be landed. 
On reaching the shore he discovered moccasin tracks, thickly upon the 

32 



250 INDIANS. 

sand, and sent off the boat for the remainder of his rr.en. Three minutes had 
not elapsed before he discovered Indians in the hammock, which he en- 
gaged immediately. Herbert's men got the first fire, but the Indians were 
prepared, and quickly returned the compliment. The first rifle shot wound- 
ed one of the men who rushed into the hammock after the Indians. The 
wounded man on retiring from the hammock, told the Lieutenant that he 
saw about fifteen or twenty Indians drawn up in line, about fifty yards 
back, hidden by the woods ; they appeared to be waiting for another party. 
At this time most of Lieutenant Herbert's men were on the opposite side of 
the mill, examining Indian tracks in the road. Lieutenant H. immediately 
ordered his men out of the hammock, and directed them to cover them- 
selves behind the pillars of the saw-mill, trees, stumps, or whatever might 
shelter them best, and to keep up a warm fire on the enemy, who came 
rushing to the edge of the hammock, and firing incessantly. About the 
same time that the balance of the men arrived from the boat, the Indians 
received a reinforcement of twenty or thirty, who came running and yell- 
ing, from a camp up the creek. When they joined their companions, they 
raised a horrid yell and rushed towards the mill. Lieutenant H. ordered 
his men to reserve their fire, and load with buckshot, eighteen to each 
musket. When the enemy emerged from the hammock, at about forty 
yards distance, they poured in a destructive fire. The Indians raised a 
terrible scream and retreated, frequently calling to carry off the wounded. 
They remained back in the hammock eight or ten minutes ; they then 
cautiously approached again, endeavoring to outflank Herbert's men, by 
getting into a hammock in his rear. Twice they attempted it, and were 
twice repelled by a steady fire of buckshot ; but one Indian reached the 
place they sought, and he was shot down just as he entered. They twice 
attempted to rush upon our men, but so steadily did the men pour buck- 
shot upon them, that their nerves failed them. The action continued one 
hour and twenty minues, when the men informed Lieutenant Herbert, that 
their ammunition was nearly exhausted. He then, ordered the wounded 
to retire towards the boat, while he directed a rapid fire on the enemy, to 
mask their retreat ; the wounded were on board with the few that assisted 
them. Lieutenant H. retreated to the boat with the balance of his little 
band. As they came on board, Captain Peck ordered his men to fire on 
the Indians with six rifles, which they did till the boat was under way. 
The Indians threw about twenty balls into the steamboat, during the en- 
gagement. Pollidore, a negro belonging to Mr. Travers, acted as guide to 
Lieutenant H., and fought very bravely. The next day, Major Gardner 
sent a party of horse to scour the woods down to Ridgley's mill, which the 
Indians set on fire on the retreat of Lieutenant Herbert ; another party de- 



INDIANS. 251 

scended the creek by water, and landed at the place of the engagement, 
where they saw a few Indians at landing, but they immediately disap- 
peared in the swamps. The enemy shortly after retired ; their fires were 
seen for two days in the direction of Rice Creek. 

About the middle of this month (August) Lieut. Col. Crane, assumed 
the command in East Florida, in the place of Gen. Eustice, who removed 
to Charleston S. C. 

On the 15th, Major Pierce arrived at Garey's Ferry on Black Creek, 
and he took command of an escort, to conduct a train of wagons with 
provisions to Micanopy. On his arrival, it was reported that the ene- 
my had collected at Fort Drane ; he immediately communicated to his of- 
ficers, his intention to attack them. Notwithstanding the fatigues of a four 
day's march, they all cheerfully acquiesced. As soon as it was dark, two 
trusty spies were sent to discover the situation of the enemy, and Major 
Pierce prepared to move as soon as they should return. At twelve o'clock 
the spies came in, and reported that the buildings were burnt, and that In- 
dian fires were burning near the pickets of the fort. At two o'clock in the 
morning Major Pierce marched with one hundred and ten men mounted, 
one howitzer and a light four horse wagon. They arrived shortly after 
day light within a quarter of a mile of the pickets, and under cover of a 
small hammock, arranged the order of attack, in three divisions. The right 
consisted of fifty men, from companies D2 and G of the first Artillery, com- 
manded by Lieutenants Irwin and Herbert. The left, forty-five menofCapt. 
Child's company, commanded by Captain Childs and Lieut. Spalding. 
The balance, of fifteen men, with the howitzer, was under the command of 
Lieut. Pickell, who was ordered to move rather slower than the wings, and 
to operate as a reserve. The troops had scarcely formed, when two rifles 
were fired near the pickets, as signals. The right and left divisions moved 
off briskly, each making a circuit so as to arrive on opposite sides of the 
pickets. The enemy were soon discovered ; a large party were run- 
ning from the pickets, to join their main body at the south part of a corn- 
field : the whole were rushing towards the small hammock just left by the 
troops. They were charged by the right division, on horseback, in every 
direction, until they were wholly driven from the field ; several were killed 
and rode over, a few extra shots were fired by the men into those who shew- 
ed signs of life. The left, commanded by Capt. Childs also rode down and 
killed one savage, on their way to join the other troops. Two more were 
killed and rode over by acting Adjutant Betts, while bringing up the reserve, 
when himself and four of his men were wounded by a volley of rifle shot 
fired from the edge of the hammock, by the Indians. One of the mounted 
men stopped to take the rifle from an Indian, which detained him till the di- 



252 INDIANS. 

vision had passed ; he spurred forward and soon found himself among the 
Indians. He then attempted to retreat, pursued by ^five savages. He was dis- 
covered by Lieut. Herbert, coming over the crest of a hill. He immediately 
spurred to his relief followed by a few of his men; but before he could reach 
him, the poor fellow was shot from his horse, and the savages struck a 
tomahawk into his head, and would have scalped him, had not Lieut. Her- 
bert arrived in time to prevent it. Lieut. Irwin attempted to cut off their 
retreat, but they were too near the hammock and escaped. Irwin and 
Herbert carried off their mangled companion, who had six balls through his 
body. Lieut. Herbert carried off the contested rifle, that had cost the life of 
a brave soldier. 

The enemy being chased into a large hammock, nearly a mile from the 
place where the attack commenced ; the first division dismounted and form- 
ed on the west of a hill, about fifty yards from the enemies' line, which was 
also re-forming on the edge of the hammock. In a few minutes, Capt. 
Childs arrived and formed on the right ; in the mean time the wounded were 
conveyed to the rear, delivered to the care Doct. Triplet. The howitzer 
was brought to bear on the enemies' line, attended by regular and lively 
volleys of musketry, until the amunition was nearly expended, that cf the 
howitzer entirely gone. The enemies' fire had slackened and nearly ceased. 
Major Peirce directed our fire to cease, to mount and retire. The troops 
retired slowly and in good order, leaving nothing on the field. The wound- 
ed had been dressed, they were placed in the wagon and removed to Mi- 
canopy by ten o'clock, when the troops were glad to get their breakfast, 
having since two o'clock marched twenty-five miles, and fought the enemy 
successfully for more than an hour. The enemy were three hundred strong, 
commanded by Powel in person, who on gaining the hammock rallied his 
men, and marshalled them in a line, half a mile in length, and sustained 
our fire for nearly an hour with perfect steadiness and bravery. On our 
evacuation of Fort Drane, this chief it seems, had removed his people into 
regular huts, built in the hammock, close by the extensive corn fields of 
Gen. Clinch, and were quietly enjoying the fruits of his labors. 

Thus far, the summer quarters contemplated by General Scott, have 
proved more destructive to the health, and more productive of fatigues and 
death, than the most active campaign. All the posts between Tampa Bay, 
and Black Creek, could not, in the month of August, muster one hun- 
dred and fifty men fit for duty. 

On examining the state of the fort at Micanopy, Major Pierce found that 
there was not sufficient provision, to last until the train of wagons could go 
to Black Creek and return ; but four days' forage for the horses, that most 
of the garrison were sick, and the heat of the weather, and want of necessa- 



INDIANS. 253 

ries, were destroying the troops. Under these circumstances, he, with the 
unanimous advice of his officers, determined to abandon the place. The 
wagons were loaded with the sick and the stores, and the whole removed to 
Garey's Ferry, on Black Creek. 

On the 3d of .September, Maj. Pierce escorted a train of wagons, with pro- 
visions and amunition, to Newnansville, and reinforced the ganison of Fort 
Gilleland. No Indians were seen, although they had for some time past 
been prowling around that post in considerable force. 

On the 15th, a party of Indians attacked the house of Mr. Higinbotham, 
seven miles from Jacksonville. They slept in an out-house close by the 
dwelling, and at day light, as Mr. Thomas was striking a fire, they com- 
menced an attack upon the house. The door was closed, and the fire return- 
ed by Messrs Higinbotham and Thomas, with nine guns. The Indians re- 
treated carrying off the saddle and bridle from the out-house. Mr H. left 
Mr. Thomas and two women, Mrs. H. and T. to defend the house, and a 
sick man, while he rode to Jacksonville to give the alarm. Major Hart, at 
the head of twelve men, immediately went in pursuit. On reaching Mr. 
Higinbotham's, they found Mr. Thomas and the two women guarding the 
house, with guns in their hands, ready to repel an attack. A young lady in 
the house had risen early in the morning, and gone to a brook for water ; 
she had passed the Indians without discovering them, when they fired on 
her. The balls pierced through all her clothes without touching her body. 
She ran and hid herself, until an opportunity arrived that enabled her to 
gain the house. Major Hart took the Indian trail which led to the Talla- 
hasse road, and on that rode ten miles, to the house of M. Cormick, occu- 
pied by a Mr. Johns. This house was a heap of smoking ruins, in which 
was the remains of a human being burnt to a cinder ; near to the house 
was a quantity of female hair. The pursuing party finding fresh horse 
tracks still on the great road, they pushed on expecting to overtake the en- 
emy at Lowder's, seven miles ahead. On reaching this house it was aban- 
doned, but no traces of the savages were seen. They pushed on to Spark- 
man's, four miles further ; it was night. This family was in great distress. 
Mrs. Johns was there, still alive. Her arm and neck pierced with balls, 
and her head, as far as her hair extended deliberately skinned. The poor 
woman had her senses perfectly, and related the circumstances of the assault 
of their house. Mr. and Mrs. Johns were about twenty yards from the 
house, at about ten o'clock in the morning, when they perceived the Indians 
in the corner of a fence very near to them ; they fired and shot Mr. Johns in 
the breast, both fled to the house and closed the door. The Indians follow- 
ed close, firing on the house, and at length looked in between the logs, and 
in English told them to come out, and said they would not hurt them. 



254 INDIANS. 

Johns refused, but begged the Indians to save their lives. An Indian then 
gave an order to charge the house. They burst in the door and shot Mr. 
Johns through the head ; he fell dead, and his wife fell upon him. An In- 
dian dragged her to the door, and told her to go ; she asked where, he point- 
ed towards Black Creek. At that moment, she saw another Indian level 
his rifle at her ; she raised her arm, the Indian fired, the ball cut the flesh 
of her arm lengthwise, and passed through her neck. They then dragged 
her into the house, and tearing the siring and comb from her hair, with a 
large butcher knife skinned all her hair off her head, as the butchers would 
skin an animal. They then plundered the house, and among other things 
they took a portmanteau that contained one hundred dollars, and other valu- 
able articles. Finally they set fire to the house, one Indian applying a 
torch to the clothes of the poor bleeding victim. They then raised the war 
whoop, and hurried off in the direction of Black Creek. Feeling the fire of 
her clothing burn her leg, the poor woman seized handfuls of her own clot- 
ted blood to quench the flames. When the savages were gone, she raised 
herself up, saw the house in flames, and her husband bleeding on the floor : 
she crawled from the flames slowly, and frequently fainted with pain and 
the loss of blood. She reached a swamp, got some water, and laid down to 
die ; but the eye of a kind Providence was upon her, and she was preserved. 
About two o'clock P. M. Mr. Johns, sen., with two of his neighbors, rode up 
to the burning house, where lay the roasted body of his son. On further 
search, Mrs. Johns was discovered in the swamp. They took her on a 
horse, and conveyed her to Mr. Sparkman's together with Mr. Lowder's 
family, whose house they passed. It was the trail of Mr Johns and his 
party, that misled Major Hart thus far from the direction of the savages. 
Eight Indians, and one negro, were seen at Mr. Johns house, besides those 
who took charge of the horses, nine of which, they had stolen and taken 
with them. They tried to catch Mr. Higinbotham's horse, but he was 
frightened and kept out of their way. Early next morning, Major Hart, 
with his party, took the woods in the direction of Black Creek, struck the 
Indian trail early in the day, and pursued it to the head of Black Creek ; 
but the enemy travelled all night, and had six hours the start of them. 
The chase was given up with great reluctance. 

A notice of the attack had been sent to Black Creek, and Major Pierce 
sent several parties of men to intercept the savages ; he also headed one 
detachment himself, and pursued their trail near to Santaffe, but, without 
effect. The horses they had stolen were the best in the country, and they 
pushed them to their utmost speed. From the trail they came, and from 
other discovered signs, they had been a week or ten days in the neighbor- 
hood of Ewbanks and Hiffinbotham's. Mrs. Johns has since been removed 



INDIANS. 255 

into Jacksonville, and placed in a comfortable boarding house, where medical 
attendance, and the humane attentions of the citizens, have promptly 
administered to her necessities, and relieved many of her sorrows : she is 
in a fair way of recovery. 

On the 10th of September, a cart attended by three white men and two 
negroes was sent from Newnansville to gather corn in a field about a mile 
from the village ; they were fired upon by the Indians. The men and 
negroes escaped to the fort, but left the cart in the hands of the enemy. It 
was a rainy evening : spies were sent to discover the situation and force of 
the enemy. They were discovered in the hammock of San Filaseo, four 
miles distant, about three hundred in number. The next morning (Sabbath) 
Colonel Warren marched out to attack them at the head of one hundred 
and fifty men ; one hundred mounted volunteers, twenty-five gentleman 
citizens, and twenty-five U. S. troops. He advanced in three columns, the 
right led by Colonel Warren, the left by Col. Mills, and the centre by 
Captain Tompkins with the regulars, and a twenty-four pound howitzer. 
Within three-fourths of a mile, of the hammock they were met by the ene- 
my, and the battle immediately commenced along the right wing and 
centre, while the enemy attempted to turn the left flank ; but they were 
charged with spirit by Colonel Mills, who drove them into a scrub on the 
bonier of the hammock, from which they were routed by the artillery, which 
played upon them with great effect. Their next attempt was on the right ; 
but they were soon driven again under range of the howitzer, which did 
good execution. The Indians twice charged upon the centre, to take the 
howitzer, but were repelled, and they were at length routed at all points 
and driven one and half miles into a dense hammock. 

This engagement continued one and a half hours ; during a full hour, the 
firing was heavy along the whole line. The Indians sustained it with des- 
perate obstinacy, and twice charged on the artillery, with a daring beyond 
any former example ; but they fired very carelessly, as usual ; not one of 
our men were killed, and but five wounded. We know not the loss of the 
enemy ; many were seen to fall before the artillery, especially on the left : 
but no bodies were found on the field ; much blood was seen. A very tall 
Indian rode on horseback, and gave orders on the right ; a whole platoon 
directed their fire on him until he fell, but he was immediately carried off. 

The leaders of each column distinguished themselves, by great coolness 
and activity. Adjutant Gilleland and Captains Beckham, Walker and 
Ward and Lieutenants Breeton and Hindly, displayed great bravery and 
good conduct as did Doctors Pelot and Turtelot. Private W 7 eyman was 
wounded at the howitzer, by the first fire of the enemy, but he refused to 
leave his post, till compelled by loss of blood. 



256 INDIANS. 

About the middle of September, the Tennessee brigade under Gen. Arm- 
strong, at the solicitation of Gov. Call, left Montgomery in Alabama, and 
marched for Florida. At Tallahasse they drew provisions and proceeded 
to the Suwanne River, which they reached on the 26th. At Old Town they 
found but one small boat, and were three days crossing the river, by which 
time their provisions and forage were expended. At this post provisions were 
expected to have been drawn, but all that could be obtained was half rations 
of pickled pork and spoiled sea biscuit. Forage there was none ; but the 
troops being anxious to reach the enemy, pushed forward with tolerable 
spirits. At Old Town, Gov. Call was announced to the army as comman- 
der in chief. The Tennesseans remarked, that it would have been well for 
him to have placed in depot, some of the provisions and forage that he had 
promised them in abundance ; especially as they learned that he could com- 
mand the funds of the United States Treasury, as far as it should be neces- 
sary, in conducting the war, and he had the whole previous season, seven 
or eight months, to prepare for this emergency. 

On the 30th an Indian trail was discovered, leading to the right. Four 
companies, among which were the spies, were detached in pursuit of the 
Indians, with directions to join the army that night ; but the guide lost his 
way and the detachment did not join the army until the 3d of October, at 
Fort Drane. During this march, they lived on beef broiled without salt. 

The army, during their march, discovered a party of Indians collecting 
cattle ; twenty of which they had penned. Four of the Indians were kill- 
ed, and the cattle driven off and eaten by our troops. On Saturday, the 
first day of October, the army reached Fort Drane ; expecting to find Oseo- 
la and his red skins at that place ; they had marched thirty miles that day, 
and their mortification was excessive, on their arrival, to find it abandoned. 
Large smokes indicated the situation of the Seminoles about two miles east 
of the fort ; but the troops were encamped. In the morning all arose anx- 
ious, and expecting to be led in pursuit of the game almost in sight. No 
order was given for marching ; it was said that we must wait for the spies. 
Sunday passed, and on Monday evening the four companies joined the 
army. The Troops were on the alert again to pursue the enemy. A de- 
tachment of two hundered men, had been sent out, on Sunday to recon- 
noitre ; they discovered the Indian camp, recently abandoned. Victuals 
cooking on the fire ; cooking untensils, pigs and fowls tied, evry thing indi- 
cated a sudden flight, and cart tracks pointed out the course of the fugitives. 
But the commander in chief, said we must wait for provisions to arrive 
from Black Creek. The provisions did arrive, and the army finally march- 
ed on the 8th of Dec. to follow the enemy, who had ample time, either to 
hide, or choose his place of defence, as might best please him. The troops 



INDIANS. 257 

had submitted to live on half rations of weavel eaten biscuit, and ride their 
favorite horses without forage ; they had strained every vital to reach the 
enemy's camp ; they did this, expecting to take him by surprise and end the 
war at once ; and he was permitted to fly from them without an attempt to 
check him — to take their women and children, and their corn and baggage 
in carts, and quietly to wend their way to the strong holds of Ouithlacoo- 
che. 

Major Pierce arrived at Fort Drane with one hundred mounted men to 
escort the wagons. The army, one thousand eight hundred strong, with a 
large train of wagons and artillery, marched on the 8th, following the cart 
road the Indians had made on their retreat. They were five days reaching 
the forks of the Ouithlacooche. On the evening of the 12th, the advanced 
guard fell upon a camp of Indians just at the end of Long Swamp. They 
killed fourteen men, and took four squaws and six or eight children prison- 
ers. One of the squaws offered to pilot the army to Oseola's camp the 
next morning, which she said contained most of the warriors of the nation, 
and all the noted chiefs. On the 13th the army traversed the Long Swamp 
and entered the open pine woods, where the road divided ; one leading to a 
ford below the forks of the river, and the other across the north branch. 
Colonel Guild, with three hundred Tcnnesseans, was ordered to examine 
the latter, and attack a negro town, which was situate on the south side of 
the stream ; while Major Gordon, with the spy guard, should reconnoitre 
the former. Colonel Guild had proceeded about three miles to a stream, 
when the guide, Seminole Billy, halted to point out the fording place. 
First one, then a volley of rifle shots were poured upon the troops from the 
other shore. The guide fell dead. The troops dismounted and treed in 
the best manner they could, and opened a fire at random against an invisi- 
ble foe, for an hour ; during which time three were killed including Billy the 
guide, and nine wounded. The enemy ceased firing, but, without a guide, 
no one knew where to cross the stream ; they, therefore, returned to camp. 
Major Gordon approached the main river through a thick swamp ; the 
waters were high and covered the trail. At the bank of the river a fire 
was opened upon them from the western bank, but the distance being 250 
yards, little execution could be done. Major Gordon received a slight 
wound in the breast from a spent ball. Cudjoe, a negro guide, and the 
squaw, entered the river and offered to cross, but the troops were recalled. 
fj.^The army had now been from Fort Drane five days, and their ten day's 
rations were gone ; so says the report. Orders were given to march 
to Fort Halliman, near the mouth of the river, to meet General Reed, who 
was ordered to bring on supplies in steamboats. A detachment was sent 

forward to make discoveries and report. Early the detachment returned 

33 



25S INDIANS. 

and reported that no provisions had arrived. A council was called, and a 
retreat to Fort Drane determined on. 

It was afterwards discovered that the detachment never went to Fort 
Halliman ; that General Reed was in the river, but had lost his steamboat ; 
the bow and stern being aground at high water, on the falling of the tide, 
the centre of the boat settled and broke in two, and became a wreck. He 
afterwards built a large barge, and ascended the river; but no depot of 
provisions was ever placed there. 

The next day, the 16th, an express reached the camp of the Governor 
from Colonel Lane, who had just crossed the Ouithlacooche at Gaines' 
Battle Ground. An escort, under Lieutenant Petway, was sent to him, 
and he joined the army on the 19th at Fort Drane, with seven hundred 
friendly Indians. An express was sent to Black Creek with orders to 
Major Pierce to join General Call. The Tennessee brigade was ordered to 
Black Creek, having lost more than half their horses by fatigue and starva- 
tion. The troops were promised that their horses should be replaced in a 
short time. The friendly Creeks were spread over the woods from Fort 
Drane to Santaffe. 

Shortly after the arrival of Col. Lane, he expressed himself well pleased 
with his tour of service, and appeared in good spirits ; said his health was 
good, except something of a brain fever. He was invited into the tent of 
Captain Goff. On remarking that it was rather warm, Captain Goff 
stepped out to have the sides of the tent raised j on his return, he found 
Col. Lane on his knees, with the point of his sword entered above his right 
eye into the brain : he expired immediately. This disaster cast a gloom 
over the whole army. He stood high in the estimation of all the officers 
and soldiers of the army. The act was universally imputed to accident, 
not design. Lieut. Col. Brown made a report of the expedition from Camp 
Brook, Tampa Bay, to Governor Call. 

This detatchment consisted of regulars and friendly Creeks. They em- 
barked at Appalachicola on the 28th of September, and arrived at Tampa 
Bay the next day. The forces were landed on the 30th. Colonel Lane 
being informed that the Seminoles were committing depredations in the 
neighborhood, he started the same afternoon with twelve mounted men 
and one hundred Creeks, to seek the enemy. 

After a rapid march of twelve miles tho enemy were discovered on the 
east side of Indian River. Without waiting for the Creeks, he charged the 
enemy, two hundred in number, who concentrated themselves in a large 
hammock lower down the river, where they were kept at bay until Major 
Watson arrived with the Creeks. A warm engagement ensued for fifteen 
minutes, when Major Watson led a charge across the river. The Seminoles 



INDIANS. 259 

poured in their rifle shots until the Creeks reached the shore ; they then 
began sullenly to retire, still keeping up a running fire for one and a half 
miles : they then separated and fled in every direction. Colonel Lane and 
the mounted men pursued them till dark. During the engagement a Mr. 
Kelly observed an Indian take deliberate aim at Col. Lane ; he threw him- 
self before his commander, and received the ball in his body. This act of 
devotion, shews the enthusiasm of a lofty and generous mind, and deserves 
a record in the history of these perilous times. May the actor find a balm 
for his wound in the sympathy of his admiring countrymen. Maj. Watson 
and Lieut. Linnard are said to have distinguished themselves in this affair. 
Two only, of our men were wounded. 

Col. Lane continued at Tampa until the 10th October, when he crossed 
the Hillsborough River, and encamped one mile from the fort. In the three 
succeeding days they had progressed fifty-seven miles without discovering 
an enemy. On the 14th, having marched about four miles, a hostile Indian 
appeared on the right flank ; he escaped. On arriving at the place where 
he disappeared, the army were in full view of the Olocklikany, or Spotted 
Laks, which extended northwardly, as far as the eye could reach. It was 
sprinkled with islets of heavy timbered land, some of which were detached 
or insulated ; others were connected together by marshes more or less ex- 
tensive, and usually covered by tall, heavy grass. A fresh trail was soon 
found, and a village soon after discovered. Horses and baggage were left, 
and the trail pursued in a north-east direction to the village ; it was deserted. 
They turned southwardly, passed fine hammock land, arrived at a ford 
two hundred yards wide, dashed in, raised their ammunition on the point of 
their bayonets, and had to swim part of the way. They found the south 
shore covered by extensive corn fields, with a few cattle and ponies. Here 
was another small village. They followed the trail past this settlement, 
across a marsh, at least a mile in extent. The Creeks plunged into the 
water and mud, which in places was five or six feet deep. The volunteers 
followed ; the few horses rode this far were abandoned, and the balance of 
the way crossed on foot, up to their neck in water and soft mud. On 
reaching terra firma, they found themselves on a beautiful, fertile island, 
several miles in extent. The trail still continued southerly. In about a 
mile it led to an extensive village, recently abandoned. Here were cattle, 
hogs, domestic utensils, and several white mien's scalps. The trail then 
turned westwardly half a mile, and led to another large and flourishing 
village, with similar improvements. The two villages contained at least 
one hundred and fifty houses. In another half mile, the trail led to a de- 
clivity, at the foot of which was a small pond, skirted on the left by a 
dense scrub for half a mile ; on the right a hammock of thick, heavy tim- 



260 INDIANS. 

ber. Here the enemy made a stand, and saluted their invaders with a 
shower of rifle balls. The fire was promptly returned for half an hour, 
when the Indians retreated to the hammock. They were pursued for more 
than a mile, skirmishing the whole way. At length their path crossed an 
open field, across which the Indians scampered, our men in full chase. On 
reaching another hammock the Indians scattered in every direction, and 
the chase was given up. The loss of the enemy was unknown, as were 
their numbers. We had one man wounded. The troops drove two hun- 
dred head of cattle back on their return to camp, and killed probably one 
hundred, and as many hogs. During the night the Creeks increased our 
cattle to four hundred head. On the^lOth Col. Lane crossed the Ouithla- 
cooche, and joined the army under Gov. Call. 

During the first campaign of General Call, orders were sent to the 
Quarter Master at Garey's Ferry, to forward to the head of Lake George, 
a quantity of provision for the use of the army ; accordingly, the steamboats 
Santee, John Stoney, and Charleston were sent, loaded with stores, and 
having in tow two schooners. These vessels lay a week, or more, at the 
south end of the lake. On the return of the army at Fort Drane, they 
were recalled to Black Creek. 

Major Pierce was then sent to Savanna and Charleston, to procure more 
horses and forage. While the Tennessee volunteers were stationed at Black 
Creek, the Creeks strolled over the woods, between Fort Drane and San- 
taffe. The Governor's head quarters were at Fort Drane, until the 11th of 
November, at which time, the army, composed of the Tennessee brigade, 
one regiment of them on foot, under General Armstrong, 950 strong, 350 reg- 
lars, 200 Floridians, and the Creek regiment of six hundred Indians, 2 100 in 
all, marched again to the forks of the Ouithlacooche ; the next day they 
encamped within three miles of that river. 

On the 13th, the Tennessee volunteers applied for the honor of forcing a 
passage across the river ; but it being reported that the enemy had retired, 
they were detached to make an attack on the negro town, on the south side 
of Spring Creek, where Colonel Guild, with three hundred Tennesseans, 
had been foiled during the last campaign. 

The Creeks under Colonel Pierce, supported by the regulars, crossed the 
river without opposition. The water was very cold ; the stream, more 
than two hundred yards wide, one fourth of the distance swimming, and 
quite swift. Many of the troops suffered severely, and four of the regulars 
were drowned. 

The Governor afterwards crossed the river with Colonel Warren's mount- 
ed volunteers. The whole region of the cove had been deserted for several 
days. The freshest trails led towards the Wahoo Swamp, which extends 



INDIANS. 261 

up the south, or main branch of the Ouithlacooche, nearly to the Tampa 
road. 

Colonel Pierce with his Creeks, Warren's mounted volunteers, and part 
of the regulars, were detached to make a circuit round the south branch of 
the river, and to unite again with Governor Call, on the Tampa road ; 
while the Governor recrossed and joined the Tennessee troops at the camp, 
on the east side of the river. 

He found General Armstrong at the camp. The Tennesseans succeeded 
in swimming Spring Creek without opposition ; they burnt two negro villa- 
ges, and took a negro, old and infirm, who told them that all the Indians 
had removed into the Wahoo Swamp. 

The Governor then proceeded with the Tennessee and regular troops, up 
the east side of the Ouithlacooche, in search of the enemy. They were 
discovered about four hundred yards from the line of march, on the 17th ; 
they were encamped near a large hammock. Colonel Bradford's regiment 
was detached to attack them ; the enemy fled, leaving many of their packs 
of provisions behind them. At the edge of the hammock they made a 
stand, under cover of the forest trees. The volunteers were ordered to dis- 
mount ; while executing the order, tbey received the enemies' fire. The 
fire was quickly returned, and kept up until an order was given to charge 
the hammock, when the Seminoles fled, leaving behind their horses and 
baggage. Twenty red skins were found dead in the wood, and numerous 
bloody trails were followed into the swamp, where our men pursued them 
waist deep in mud. Our loss was one killed, and ten wounded ; one 
mortally. 

The army then retired about four miles to the pine "v^oods, and encamp- 
ed. On the 18th, the waggon train was placed under a strong guard, and 
Colonel Trousdale's regiment, part of the first regiment, and the spy com- 
panies, were sent under the command of General Armstrong, to penetrate 
the Wahoo Swamp ; they found a large trail which led through some 
hammocks and across two streams into a large field, covered with bur 
weeds, with a few houses. The enemy had set fire to these and retreated 
to the hammocks. Colonel Trousdale's foot regiment were formed in open 
order, to charge the hammock, while the horse were formed on the right 
and left to protect the flanks. Before the order was given to charge, a 
heavy fire was poured upon the whole line. Our troops returned the fire, 
and slowly approached the hammock for some time, until the order to 
charge, sent them shouting into the hammock. Immediately the enemy 
opened their fire on both flanks, and on the rear, where about fifty bolted 
into the field. The horsemen dismounted, and charged into the woods, 
where the ground was contested with desperation for more than half an 



262 INDIANS. 

hour, when the Seminoles gave way on all sides. Captain Fletcher, with 
a small company drawn from the left flank, charged, and dispersed the ene- 
my in the rear. The troops were then recalled to the field, and formed in 
order. Our loss was three killed, and fifteen wounded. Twenty-five In- 
dians were found dead in the hammock. The force of the enemy was 
supposed to be seven hundred. They had every advantage of position, and 
at one time surrounded us. Our open order, and rapid charge saved the 
army, which was marched back to camp in the night. 

On the 19th, the army was marched to Dade's battle ground, where a 
junction was formed with Col. Pierce. 

This division had been detained all the 16th in crossing Cove Creek, 
which they reached about five miles from their encampment at the Forks. 
On the 17th they marched about twelve miles in a southern direction, 
over a pine country ; encamped at four o'clock, and sent out several scout- 
ing parties. One of .the flanking parties had discovered five Indians, and 
gave chase ; the Indians dropped their packs, and made their escape. 

18th. Left the camp under a guard, and marched east on a plain trail, 
about six miles to the river. On the way, the advanced guard discovered 
five Indians, probably the same before discovered, on the edge of a small 
prairie, painting themselves ; gave chace, but the Indians escaped to the left 
of the trail. On reaching the river, a canoe was found at the landing ; one 
of the volunteers got into it, and paddled nearly across the river, but found 
it too deep to ford. On his return, one of the officers entered the canoe and 
examined the river ; after which the canoe was ordered to be cut in pieces. 
As soon as that was begun, a shower of balls from the other shore indicated 
that the owners put their veto on the act. The fire was returned, and kept 
up an hour and a half. Some of the enemies' balls struck our men without 
entering, and the distance was evidently too great to do much execution. 
The division was marched back to camp. At 4 P. M. the line of march was 
again resumed, and the troops finally encamped for the night, on the S. W. 
bank of the river, six miles south of the ford visited in the morning. Dur- 
ing this day's march, many Indian settlements were passed ; they were 
usually situate on the borders of the hammocks, or in the edge of the pine 
woods. 

At the present encampment, the western bank of the river was high, a 
plain trail led to a ford where a raft was tied ; it had lately been used for 
ferrying over cattle. The river was deep, about one hundred yards wide, 
and covered with bonnets, or nymphse. 

19th. Marched S. E. to the Tampa road, which they struck one fourth 
of a mile south of the south fork of Ouithlacooche. They forded the river, 
which was only knee deep, and continued five or six miles 1o the north 
fork, where they camped. 



INDIANS. 263 

20th. Proceeded to Dade's battle ground, and joined General Call. 
Preparations were made for another attack on the Wahoo. 

21st. The army marched in three columns. The Tennessee troops 
formed the right. The regulars with Colonel Warren's volunteers, the 
centre, led by Colonel Pierce. The flank regiment the left. They reach- 
ed the scene of action of the 18th, about 10 o'clock A. M. The Seminoles 
were ready to receive them. The right and centre columns marched di- 
rectly to the hammock in line of battle, received the enemy's fire, and with- 
out discharging a gun, rushed into the hammock, beat up the enemy, and 
then poured upon them a destructive fire, which immediately routed them. 
Their route was soon discovered. Colonel Pierce with his division and the 
Creeks, pursued. Colonel Trousdale, and Colonel Warren followed to sup- 
port them. Colonel Brown, with a small body of Creeks, followed close 
upon the heels of the enemy, until they entered a cypress swamp, where 
they were brought to bajr. They were strongly posted behind a deep 
creek, flanked by two boggy ponds. Major Moniac, an educated Creek 
warrior, in attempting to force the creek, fell dead, as did some other 
Creeks who supported him. The Seminoles were elated, and Colonel 
Brown considering his command in danger, retreated until the Florida mili- 
tia, and the volunteers of Warren arrived to support him. Several companies 
of artillery under Colonel Gardener soon arrived, and these were succeeded 
by Colonel Pierce, with Colonel Trousdale. Some of the regulars and Ten- 
nesseans, had unfortunately taken a trail that led into an impassable 
morass, from which they were with difficulty extricated. When the fire 
of all our troops opened upon the enemy, his fire slackened, but was par- 
tially continued in different parts of the line, till 4 o'clock P. M. During 
the engagement the hostile chiefs were heard to assure their men that the 
whites could not cross the creek, and our commander appeared to be of the 
same opinion ; for he withdrew the troops from the swamp and after form- 
ing them in the open field, they were withdrawn four miles to the camp ; 
where they arrived at 10 o'clock in the evening, and where the Seminoles 
followed them, and cut the throats of twenty of their horses. The next 
morning the army was marched for Volusia. Seven schooners, and four 
steamboats, awaited them at the head of Lake George, laden with provi- 
sions. Five regulars were killed, one Tennessean, and three friendly 
Creeks, among whom was Major Moniac. Captains Ross, and Maitland 
were wounded ; the former since died, the latter recovered. Seven regu- 
lars, and eight Tennesseans wounded. Ten Seminoles were found dead, 
north of the creek. There was no means of ascertaining their loss on the 
south side. 

The army arrived at Volusia on the 24th, where they were joined by 



264 INDIANS. 

General Jessup, who arrived from Tampa Bay with four hundred mounted 
Alabama volunteers. Here he received orders from the Secretary at War, 
to assume the command of the army, and Governor Call of course retired. 
On his rout, Gen. Jessup had taken thirty-three negro prisoners, and an 
Indian who was placed as a guard over them. These negroes were the 
property of Col. Rees, taken at Spring Garden plantation. They stated 
that they had generally been kept on acorns and such roots as they could 
dig in the woods. 

Thus ended the third campaign against the Seminoles. 

For this campaign, Gov. Call had the whole summer to prepare, with 
power to draw on the treasury of the United States for any amount of funds 
he might deem necessary, and to employ as many troops as he pleased. 

It was a service anxiously sought by him, if we may judge by his letters. 
That directed to the President, Jan. 9th, 1836, reads thus. " I should be 
highly gratified to command the army, and believe I could soon bring the 
war to a close. I fear however, that I cannot do it without injustice to Gen- 
eral Clinch. He is a brave and good man, but I fear he is too slow in his 
movements, to conduct a war against the Indians." His Excellency's 
letter on the subject of his appointment to the command, instead of Gen. 
Jessup, indicated a similar desire. We regret that we cannot at this time 
obtain a copyof it. 

The Seminole war has not yet been " brought to a close." So far from 
driving the Seminoles from Florida, they have driven his excellency from 
their boundaries. 

The army of Gov. Call, consisted of one thousand Tennesseans, four 
hundred regulars, two hundred Florida volunteers and seven hundred Creeks; 
in all two thousand and three hundred. With these, he was more than 
two months in the field. More than ten times the force, commanded by the 
slow General Clinch, and with fifty times his resources. Let us refer to his 
official report to see what he accomplished. 

" All the strong holds of the enemy have been penetrated and explored, 
and they have been defeated in four several engagements." This is very 
well if true. But other parts of the report seem to contradict these state- 
ments. " Yet the passage was not gained, for all previous attempts to turn 
or pass it had failed, and its practicability was unascertained. The officers 
in command of the troops engaged, decided that the attempt should not be 
made, at so late an hour in the day, with an entire ignorance of the country 
behind : and they accordingly withdrew their men." Withdrew them four 
miles from the swamp, to a camp in the pine woods, where the Indians fol- 
lowed them, and cut the throats of twenty of their horses before morning. 
We are informed, that on the 17th and 18th the Seminoles met our troops 



INDIANS. 265 

at the edge of the hammocks, from which, after sustaining sharp skirmish- 
es, they retired to one of " their strong holds," expecting undoubtedly to 
have been pursued, to a situation where they could defend themselves more 
advantageously. In this they were disappointed. On the third day, the 
21st, they effected their object, and what was the result. Take the words 
of the official report. "The officers commanding, decided that the attempt 
(to force the creeU) should not be made," and they accordingly withdrew 
the men. Can this be defeating the enemy 1 Is this penetrating their 
strong holds 1 The strong holds of the Serninoles, are the Wahoo swamp ; 
the islands of the Olocklikany ; Tokopalika and the Everglades. Governor 
Call's army have played around some of these ; they have penetrated not 
one. Col. Lane peeped into one or two of the Olocklikany islands, and 
drove off seven hundred head of cattle from them ; Col. Brown is still living 
and can point them out, when men can be found seriously disposed to beat 
up the strong holds of the enemy. 

But where are the four several engagements mentioned in the official re- 
port ? we can find but three hinted at ; unless the burning of the negro 
houses on Spring Creek be called an engagement. Were it not better for 
the Reporter to leave out the word defeated altogether ? 

" The army having exhausted the last day that could be spared, without 
incurring actual starvation." They had been absent from Fort Drane ten 
days. " Encumbered with an immense baggage train." — An immense 
baggage train ! from sixty to eighty five horse wagons, to hunt Indians, 
and carry only ten days' provisions ! ! I " The enemy weakened, defeated, 
dispersed, can offer no" effectual resistance to the fine army commanded 
by Jessup." We have no evidence that the enemy are either weak, low 
spirited, or fled. Rumor states that they are ordered to concentrate at 
Tokopalika ; this may be true, or it may not ; should it prove to be true, 
General Jessup will, at this late hour, have the bull to take by the horns. 
Tokopalika is the strong hold of Philip, the most mischievous of all the 
Seminole chiefs ; he who has committed more depredations in Florida, than 
all the rest of the nation put together ; and this Philip has not, during this 
long Florida war, been even pointed at. 

Now we will not say that our governor has done nothing : but we do 
say that he has done much less than he promised ; some think, much less 
than he ought, with the means and the time he commanded. His eulogizers 
would have clone their chief more honor, and themselves more credit, by 
acknowledging the injustice he did Clinch ; and instead of boasting of vic- 
tories, to have confessed that his errors in neglecting to prepare for the 
emergencies of the campaign, subjected him to great disappointments. 

We cannot dismiss the official report without one more passing commen- 

34 



266 INDIANS. 

tary. " This was really a most brilliant affair." " At the point of ground 
in the centre of the field, occupied by the commanding general and his 
staff the balls were distinctly seen, and heard to strike and cross each other, 
from three sides at the moment." 

The commanding general and his staff are greatly to be envied. There 
are few men of taste that would not volunteer one campaign, to behold so 
brilliant a phenomenon. These Seminoles are the most amusing enemies, 
and know how to distinguish the aristocracy of the army. The knaves 
made no bones of plumping the blood-thirsty Ross and Maitland, and Mon- 
iac, and the sorry fellows who pursued them to the border of their " strong 
hold " but fired their rifle balls slowly merely to be seen, not felt, by the 
" commanding general and his staff." 

One word respecting depots, and we dismiss this campaign. General 
Reed, early last summer, published at Tallahasse, an opinion on this sub- 
ject. He being supposed a favorite of the governor, his plan was consider- 
ed as rather official, and it was universally approved. The plan consisted 
in establishing dep&ts of provisions as near the heart of the Indian country 
as steamboats could ascend. Say on the Suwanne, the Ouithlacooche, 
and Spanish, or Clear Water River, — on the Gulf side ; at Volusia, and 
Lake Monroe, on the St. Johns River ; and if extended to the Atlantic, 
along the coast. Were this done, a detachment of soldiers, in pursuit of 
the enemy, would, at no time, be more than two days' march from a depot 
of provisions. This would save the expense of " immense baggage trains," 
with all their train of evils. We happen to know that some of the gover- 
nor's best friends approved of this, and urged upon him its importance ; and 
what is more, we have been assured that he approved of it, and said that 
it was perfectly consistent with his own opinion. Let us ask then why 
was it utterly neglected ? A writer in the St. Augustine Herald has 
stated, since this campaign has gone by, that it were folly to establish 
depots ; that to defend four depots would require more troops than the 
army contained. Yet the small post of Halliman's, was, by thirty men, 
defended six weeks against the whole Indian nation. General Jessup has 
declared that he could do nothing successfully, until a cordon of posts was 
established across the country. Dear-bought experience has taught us, 
that where military posts and depots of provisions cannot be maintained, 
the country must be abandoned to the enemy. 

December 13th. — A fourth campaign has commenced under the com- 
mand of General Jessup. He has left the " immense baggage train," 
and of the two thousand horses he has taken a few only to pack provisions. 
Tn the mean time, the General and his troops have taken packs of food 
upon their backs, and have sought the enemy in their swamps. We sin- 



INDIANS. 267 

cerely wish them success, but we know the country, and the resources of 
the enemy, too well to expect a conclusion of the war this season. 

The Tennessee brigade being collected at Volusia, moved with the army 
under General Jessup, who left about one hundred men under the command 
of Col. Gardener, to protect the post. 

By the middle of December General Jessup was prepared to commence 
operations ; he had sent orders to Tampa Bay for Colonel Foster to meet 
him, or rather to approach the west side of the Ouithlacooche below the 
military road, and to scour the hammocks and the cove of Oiocklikany, with 
all the troops that could be spared from Fort Brook; while he, with the 
troops left by Governor Call, pushed into the "strong holds" of the enemy. 
He explored the forks of the river, and the heart of the Wahoo Swamp, 
where he found the habitations of the Indians recently deserted, but not an 
enemy could be found. Having learned the force of the present command- 
er, they thought it not prudent to meet him on a spot that had become too 
well known. They had therefore removed their quarters. The two 
divisions of the army continued simultaneously to scour the country on 
both sides of the river, until the General was satisfied that the enemy had 
fled. One solitary native was found and taken prisoner. 

The army retired to Tampa Bay, where the Tennessee troops, under 
General Armstrong, were embarked for New Orleans, on their way home ; 
their time of service having expired. 

After the Tennessee troops were disposed of, General Jessup removed his 
head quarters to Fort Dade, a post that had recently been established at 
the point where the old military road crosses the south branch of the Ouith- 
lacooche. From this post reconnoitering parties were sent in every direc- 
tion to scour the country and endeavor to discover the enemy. It was at 
length discovered that the leading trails all pointed to the south east, towards 
the Everglades. 

On the 22d of January, General Jessup marched in pursuit of the enemy, 
pursuing their trails to the south east. 

On the 23d, Col. Cawfield, accompanied by Lieut. Chambers, was des- 
patched with a battalion of the Alabama volunteers, Captain Harris's com- 
pany of marines, and Maj. Morris's Indian warriors, to attack Osuche, who 
was reported to have a large force near the Apopke Lake : they were over- 
taken, and Osuche and his son were killed ; nine women and children, and 
eight negroes were taken prisoners; the rest of the Indians escaped. One 
of the friendly Indians was mortally wounded. 

As the trails still continued south eastwardly, they were vigorously pur- 
sued across the sand hills, that rise very high about the head waters of the 
Ocklawaha. The ascent of these hills is so great, that large details of men 



268 INDIANS. 

were employed with drag ropes to draw up the artillery and baggage on 
the 24th. 

On the 27th, numerous herds of Indian cattle were discovered feeding 
about the prairies of Thlapackhatche Creek, and the converging of the 
trails indicated the collecting of the Indians into one body. A careful 
reconnoisance was ordered. 

Col. Henderson, with Col. Cawfield's battalion, Harris's mounted marines, 
and Morris's Indians, were detached to scour the country, and, if possible, 
bring the enemy to battle. The detachment was accompanied by Lieut. 
Chambers, one of the General's aids. The enemy were discovered on the 
Hatche Luste Creek, near the Uche-anatho-clucco Swamp. They were 
attacked with vigor ; the Indians hastily fled into the swamp. Lieut. 
Chambers at the head of Price's Alabama volunteers, made a rapid charge 
on the horses and baggage of the enemy, and captured them, with twenty- 
five women, children and negroes. Col. Henderson pursued the fugitives 
into the swamp, and across the Hatche Luste Creek, where they made a 
short stand, but finally scattered and disappeared. 

The first express sent to the General, was shot by the Indiansi 

At this period information was brought in, that a large Indian force were 
lying about two miles to the right of the camp. Major Whiting's battalion 
being left in reserve, the sixth infantry, with Major Graham's company, and 
a small body of Creek warriors, were sent to that point, but the enemy had 
fled, leaving their fires burning and provisions cooking. Night approaching, 
the detachment returned to the camp, which they reached about nine 
o'clock. In about an hour afterwards Colonel Henderson also returned. 
During this day an Indian woman was taken sick on the trail ; her hus- 
band refused to leave her, and they were both taken to the camp. 

On the 28th, the above mentioned Indian was sentout to invite Abraham, 
the interpreter of Micanopy, to come into the camp. The army then 
moved on to Tokapalika Lake, and took up a strong position on the west 
bank, near to where the Big Cypress Swamp joins it. Several hundred 
head of cattle were taken on the borders of the Lake. 

On the 29th, the prisoner returned, and reported that Abraham and Alli- 
gator would visit the General. On the 31st, Abraham came in and 
conversed with the General. On the 3d of February he brought in 
Jumper, Alligator, Hopatophe and another. They agreed to meet General 
Jessup at Fort Dade, with all the other chiefs, on the 18th, to make another 
treaty. In the mean time, it was agreed that hostilities should cease. 

The army commenced its return march on the 4th, and reached Fort 
Dade on the 7th of February. 

Early in December, Col. Fanning was despatched to Lake Monroe, to 



INDIANS. 269 

establish a military post with about four companies of artillery, and a bat- 
talion of South Carolina volunteers, under Major Harlee, and thirty friendly 
Creeks, under Paddy Car, and Captain Piercy. A small picketing, and 
breastwork were commenced on the south west bank of the lake. On the 
8th of February, Philip brought a force of about four hundred Seminoles 
against them. He commenced his attack about 5 o'clock in the morning, 
by pouring a volley of rifle shot upon the tents, and raising the war yell. 
The troops directly turned out and returned the fire, and a smart en- 
gagement was kept up for three hours. The Seminoles dashed into the 
camp of Paddy Car, and ejected the Creeks without ceremony, carrying 
away their baggage. They at one time got behind one end of the line of 
pickets. Lieutenant Thomas was sent on board the steamer Santee, 
that lay at anchor in front of the post, from which he opened the fire of a 
six pounder, loaded with grape and cannister, and raked a part of the ene- 
mie's line. Early in the engagement, Captain Mellon, a veteran offirce of 
the artillery, was shot through the breast and immediately expired ; Lieu- 
tenant Langley was also badly wounded. About 8 o'clock, the enemy 
fled. They were followed by the Creeks, who mocked them and dared 
them to come back, but they quickly disappeared. We had one killed, and 
fourteen privates wounded. We have since* learned by negroes that have 
come in, that the Indians had twenty-five killed, and a much greater num- 
ber wounded. After retreating several miles, the Seminoles met three 
hundred of their companions coming to join them. They were about to 
return, but a runner came in from Micanopy, informing them of the Arm- 
istice. It is believed that Philip was badly wounded, as he has not been 
seen abroad since the time of the battle ; and the Indians say that he is sick. 

Several chiefs of the Seminoles came in according to agreement, and the 
old treaty of Payne's Landing, was agreed to be fulfilled. 

The Chiefs agreed to collect all their people, and have them ready to 
embark by the 10th of May, and to bring in, and deliver up to General 
Jessup, all the slaves they had taken during the war. The United States 
was to pay for all their cattle and ponies, and the annuities and subsistence, 
according to the former articles. Nearly all the chiefs signed this new 
treaty except Philip, who never came in ; Coe Hajo, however, agreed to an- 
swer for all his people, alleging that he, and not Philip, was their lawful chief. 
On the 10th, very few of the Seminoles had come in, and another day, the 
25th of May, was fixed on as the time for embarkation. In the mean time a 
great number of transports had been collected at Tampa Bay, for the pur- 
pose of removing them, the expense of which was enormously great. Be- 
fore the 25th, a report got in circulation among the Seminoles, that the 
pale faces were going to get them all embarked on board the transports 



270 INDIANS. 

and then cut their throats ; this was made an excuse for all the Indians 
to run to the woods again. General Jessup directed the chiefs to send out 
runners, and contradict the report, which they agreed to do, and a new 
day was set for embarking. In the mean time several murders were com- 
mitted in Allachua, and Columbia Counties ; several whole families were 
cut off, their houses plundered and burned. 

On the 5th of April, the commanding General issued an order, (No. 79 
which see in the Appendix B,) in which he forbids all white men, except 
those employed in the service of the United States, to enter any part of the 
territory between St. John's River, and the Gulf of Mexico, south of Fort 
Drane. 

This order gave great dissatisfaction to the inhabitants of East Florida. 
A large meeting was held at St. Augustine, and a spirited remonstrance 
was got up and published, and copies of it sent to General Jessup, and to 
the secretary of war. We have never heard any result of this measure, 
except that General Jessup directed that any slaves taken from the In- 
dians, should be sent to Fort Mellon, instead of St. Mark's. 

Large bodies of Scminoles, commanded by Powel, and Coe Hajo, col- 
lected near Fort Mellon, about the last of April, where a great ball play 
was got up, in order, as Powel said, to bring in all the scattering Indians. 
At the time appointed, the officers of Fort Mellon were invited, and many 
did attend. But they have never proceeded to Camp Brook to embark. 
On the contrary, it has been discovered that they have planted extensive 
fields of corn, and evince a settled determination to remain in Florida. The 
Seminoles continued in large parties around Fort Mellon, till the middle of 
June, drawing rations, but the chiefs rarely appearing, Colonel Harney re- 
fused to give them provisions. This brought Philip to the Fort. It was his 
first appearance ; he alleged that sickness had prevented him, and his ema- 
ciated appearance tended to confirm his statement. 

On the 2d of Jane, however, Powel at the head of two hundred Micka- 
sookies came to Tampa, surrounded the camp of Micanopy, and forced 
them all to take the woods. The sixteen hostages of General Jessup were 
thus safely disposed of, with the exception of Abraham, who continued in 
camp, to keep up the farce. Micanopy sent back word to General Jessup, 
that " he had a straight tongue." He sent also a sum of money to the suttler, 
which he owed him, and a horse that he had borrowed at the camp, with 
a general permission to the officers of the garrison, to ride over his ground. 

Powel also sent in a message stating that his reason for leaving the fort, 
was a fear of the small pox ; the measles having appeared among the 
soldiers, he said the Indians were alarmed. When the Seminoles returned 
to the neighborhood of Fort Mellon, they again visited the post as usual. 



INDIANS. 271 

Colonel Harney hearing of the flight of the hostages from Tampa, deter- 
mined to make prisoners of as many of their chiefs as possible. To this 
end he appointed a day to hold a talk with them, determining to close the 
gates of the fort on them ; one of the steamboats actually carried to the 
fort several pairs of handcuffs to secure them. The time arrived for the talk, 
but only a few of the sub-chiefs attended, and they conducted with much 
caution. Presently a message arrived from Powel, informing the comman- 
dant that he had heard of the compliment that awaited him and therefore 
thought it best to stay away. 

Volusia was abandoned early in June ; the troops were very sickly. On 
arriving at Picolata, there were very few fit for duty ; they all however, re- 
covered very soon after their removal. About the same time the garrison 
at Fort Mellon, were greatly afflicted with the cholera morbus ; it was 
attributed to the rapid falling of the waters in the lake and river. This disease 
was not fatal, nor did it continue long ; but the fort was ordered to be evac- 
uated, and Colonel Harney drew off the garrison to Picolata, about the 
middle of the month. 

At the time the troops left Fort Mellon, Coa-cou-che, the youngest son 
of Philip, w r as at the post. Colonel Harney observed to him, that unless 
the Seminoles removed according to their treaty, the whites would extermi- 
nate them. Coa-cou-che said that Tste chatte did not understand that word. 
General Thompson had talked that way, he said but he paid for it with his 
blood. The Great Spirit he knew might exterminate them, but the pale 
faces could not ; else, why had they not done it before. He did not how- 
ever, appear to be irritated, and promised that he would not burn the post 
after it should be abandoned. 

Directly after the evacuation of this post, the Seminoles spread themselves 
over the whole country, and the planters generally, abandoned their crops 
and retired to the vicinity of the posts for safety. 

On the 25th of June, a party of Indians shot Captain John Walton, of the 
light ship, stationed behind Carysford reef. Captain Walton had left the 
ship with four of his crew, all unarmed ; had gone to Kev Largo, where 
for some years past he had cultivated a garden. The Indians observing 
them, laid in wait until they landed ; they then rose and fired on them, kill- 
ing Captain Walton, and one of his men ; the latter fell in the water. The 
other three men escaped to the boat, and were saved, although two of them 
were wounded. The Indians pursued them to their boat, and in so doing 
wet their rifles, so that they were unable to use them until the men were 
out of reach. The captains of some of the wreckers with their crews, went 
to the island, where they found Captain Walton and his man, stripped, scalp- 
ed, and otherwise mangled. Their bodies were taken to Mattacumbe, and 



272 INDIANS. 

buried. Mrs. Walton and her family, were taken by Captain Sully, of the 
mail boat, and conveyed to Key West. The collector of the port, sent Cap- 
tain Wellington to take charge of the light ship. This act of savage bar- 
barity spread universal alarm among the Florida Keys, and has probably 
caused all the planters to retire to Key West, and Indian Key. Even at 
those places they are much exposed, there being no troops to protect them. 
The fires of the Indians are seen along the whole coast, from Cape Sable to 
Jupiter Inlet. 

About the 4th of June, three Indians were taken near Palatka, and a 
chief called Bowlegs, near camp Foster, and all detained as prisoners, 
being found out of the lines prescribed to them. Other Seminoles that visit- 
ed Fort King, about the first of July, were fed and permitted to go at large. 
At the same time Captain Gilleland was murdered near the Echatucney 
Spring, on his way from the Suwanne to Newnansville. 

About this time also, a severe engagement took place in West Florida, 
near the head of Black River ; between a party of militia, and a large 
body of Indians, supposed to be Creeks. The Indians were routed, but the 
Floridians had five men killed, and several wounded. 

SEMINOLE CHIEFS. 

The following is an account of the chiefs and sub-chiefs of the Seminole 
Nation, so far as we have been enabled to collect information on the sub- 
ject. 

Micanopy has ever been considered as the legitimate chief of the Semi- 
noles. He was formerly called Sint Chakke or frequenter of the pond ; but 
after the death of his brother, who was hereditary chief, being the eldest, he 
took the name of Micanopy or successor of the chief. He is a large man 
of sluggish, peaceable habits, and much under the control of others, 
more from indolence than want of good sense. He spent his early days on 
the Wealuste or Black Creek, below Garey's Ferry ; but after he assumed 
the title of chief, he fixed his abode in the heart of his tribe, and for many 
years past, resided at Pilaklakaha. 

Jumper is a Mickasooke, who left the Creek nation and joined the Semi- 
noles to avoid a treaty with Gen. Jackson. He was second in command of 
the Creeks, who committed the massacre of Fort Mims, Weatherby was the 
leader. Jumper married the sister of Micanopy, and has usually been 
considered his sense keeper, or private counsellor. They have often differed 
however, and for some time separated. His residence of late, has been in 
the Wahoo Swamp. 

Abraham, the principal interpreter, was formerly a slave of Micanopy. 
After his return from a mission to Washington City, he gave Abraham his 
freedom ; he has since, been one of his principal advisers, and has as much 



INDIANS. 273 

influence in the nation as any other man. With an appearance of great 
modesty, he is ambitious, avaricious and withal, very intelligent. 

Neamathla, an old Creek chief, like Jumper, voluntarily exiled himself 
from his nation, to avoid signing the treaty with Gen. Jackson. He took 
up his residence at the Fowl Towns, as chief of the Mickasookies. He 
cleared himself a farm, on the township since given to La Fayette, and 
made himself very comfortable, until he was called upon, at the treaty of 
Moultrie, to sign it. He being rather obstinate, John Hicks was, by some 
management constituted principal chief of his tribe, and signed the treaty. 
Neamathla was however induced to sign the treaty, by being permitted to 
reside with thirty of his friends on a reserve of two miles square, at the Tu- 
phulga village, and receiving five hundred dollars for his improvements. 
The money he alleged, he was cheated out of by one of the Indian agents ; 
he left the territory in disgust in 1826, and returned to the Creek nation, 
where he became the second war chief. The history of his capture in 
Georgia, during the last Creek war, is well known. He possessed strong- 
er natural abilities, than any native Indian we have been acquainted with. 
Col. Blunt, late a principal guide of General Jackson, Tuske Hajo, 
Mulatto King, Emathloche and Econchatti-micco, also had reserves of land, 
assigned to them, on the west bank of the Chattahooche River, where they 
resided, till near the commencement of the Seminole war, when some ban- 
ditti of the neighboring country, broke in upon them, disarmed them, stole 
their slaves and beat and abused Col. Blunt in such a barbarous manner, as 
to cause his death ; the remainder abandoned their reserves and emigrated 
with Black Dirt to Arkansas. 

The savage treatment of these friendly Indians, may be assigned as one 
cause of the Seminole war. 

Powel, or Oseola, is a native Red Stick ; who his father was is unkown, 
but it is said that his mother, who was a half breed, was at one time, 
connected with an Englishman of the name of Powel. We are informed by 
a respectable Creek chief, that his name is As-sin Yahole, singer at the 
black drink. He was little known before the difficulties commenced with 
the Seminoles. His daring savage character has since the war commenced 
raised him in the estimation of the Mickasookies, and he is at this time, a 
leader of much influence among them. At a visit lately made to his camp, 
by some of the officers from Fort Mellon, he was found at the head of four 
hundred and eighty warriors. Public opinion is greatly divided, respecting 
his character and influence ; the old chiefs are jealous of this man. He will 
hereafter be better known, 

FuctaLuste Hajo — Black Ragged Clay — is an old chief of Chicuchatty; 
was at one time principal war chief. He is usually called Black Dirt. 

35 



274 INDIANS. 

He has at all times been friendly to emigration, and finally headed the 
Indians that removed during the last year. 

Charley Emathla resided at Witumpke, a few miles from Fort King. He 
was quite a farmer, and a good man. He was murdered by Powel for his 
adherence to the treaty of Payne's Landing. 

Holate Emathla was a brother of Charley. He resided at Sitarky. 
He was, at one time, speaker of the nation. 

Although not satisfied with the manner in which our commissioners 
closed the treaty on them, yet he resolved to emigrate, and did so. Before 
his departure he joined our troops with his son, and fought the hostile Semi- 
noles. 

Catsha Tustenugge — Mad Tiger — lived at Ouithlocko. On the death 
of John Hicks, he was elected chief of the Mickasookies, through the 
intrigues of the Agent, Major Phagan, in opposition to Charley Emathla. 

Yah-hah-hajo resided sometimes at Oakhumke, and at other times near 
Lake Eustice. He commanded about eighty warriors. He was shot by 
General Shelton, a volunteer from South Carolina. 

Hulputti-hajo — Mad Alligator — resided at one of the towns on Telack- 
chopko River. He is a pleasant, merry Indian , and is considered a good 
warrior. He is a very active enemy. 

Chatkwa Owluche — Little Cloud. — This chief commanded the Indians 
at the battles of Wahoo. 

Hopatophe, a young warrior, nephew of Micanopy and heir apparent. 

Uche Billy resided sometimes at a village west of the St. John's, and 
sometimes at Berresford. At the commencement of the war he went into 
the Creek nation, and induced one hundred, or more, of his tribe to return 
with him to Florida, professing to be friendly ; but on his return he was 
induced to join Philip. Before the war, he had eight or ten followers. He 
is an Indian dandy. 

Tiger Tail — a small chief with ten followers : a Mickasooke, from the 
Fowl Towns ; friendly to the whites, until he was insulted and threatened 
by them ; he then became a hostile and savage enemy. 

Moka-is-she-larne — Sleeper — a war chief, who lived at the Wahoo 
Swamp. 

Yaholuche — Great Cloud. 

Holate Micco — Blue King — principal war chief. He resided at Ouith- 
locko. 

Erepah. 
Semethle. 

Mithlake. 

Yah-hah Emathla Chupko — Leading Wolf. ' 



INDIANS. 



275 



Hitchiti — Broken Stick. 

Aripuki — Sam Jones — resided at Oakhumke. He has become a popular 
warrior among the Seminoles. 

Osuche — Cooper — killed at Apopke Lake. 

Coe Hajo — Mad Partridge — claims to be chief of all the Seminoles east 
of Tokapolika. 

Philip has been the active commander of all the Indians that have opera- 
ted east of the St. John's. He has done more mischief than all the other 
chiefs put together. The whole coast, up to the neighborhood of St. 
Augustine has been laid waste by him. His last exploit was an attack on 
Fort Mellon, where he was handsomely whipped off with the loss of 
twenty-five killed and many wounded. As he did not appear abroad for 
some time, it is supposed that he was wounded : his friends said he was 
sick. 

Wild Cat, the eldest son of Philip, headed the Indians at the battle of 
Dun Lawton. He also commanded the party that scalped Mrs. Johns, 
near Jacksonville. 

Tokase Emathla — John Hicks — son of the old chief. 

Emachilochustern — John Walker — resided on the Chattahooche. He 
was robbed by the whites of a number of slaves, but got no redress. 



SUB-CHIEFS. 

Billy John, a free negro ; lived at Pilaklakaha ; 
served as a guide. He was shot while conducting a 
seans across Spring Creek. 



joined our troops and 
detachment of Tennes- 



Albarte Hajo, 


Creeping Baby, 


Long Swamp 


Tustinuc Hajo, 


Half Moon, 


Do. 


Acata Hajo, 




Do. 


We flacco Matte, 




Oakhumky. 


Kasko Ure, 


Fire Stick, 


Do. 


Echu Matte, 


Water Serpent, 


Do. 


Topalajige, 


Wonder., 


Do. 


Hathaw Matte, 


Sea Shell, 


Do. 


Chan chan tornusk, 


Fallen Tree, 


Ouithlocko. 


Caso Tustenugge, 


Yellow Bull, 


Wahoo. 


Cheti Haiola, 


Rising Star, 


Ouithlocko. 


Powshaila, 


Dwarf, 


Do. 


Emathloche, 




Minotte, 


Ta Caso Fiscico, 




Chetucsta. 



276 

Yaha Fiscico, 

Tustenuc Yaha, 

Conchatte, 

Tustenugge, 



GLOSSARY. 

Crazy Eagle, (killed near Chicu- 

chatty,) Do- 

Hitchepucksasse 

Do. 

Wahoo. 



GLOSSARY. 



Nuntokay — A man. 

Hokte- -A woman. 

Iste hatke — A white man. 

Iste chatte — A red man, etc. 

Iste — A person. 

Ulke — A tribe. 

Seminole ulke— The Seminole tribe 

Chacteka — Father. 

Chatske — Mother. 

Chase — Brother. 

Ewanmaw — Sister. 

Chakpootsi — Son. 

Chackshosti — Daughter. 

Chepawne — Boy. 

Hocktoche — Girl. 

Eche — Husband. 

Chapiwa — Wife. 

Micco — King. 

Emathla — Leader. 

Yattika — Orator. 

Tustenugge — Warrior. 

Isneesay — Trader. 

Timpana — Council house. 

Epola — Dancing house. 

Chucco — Square. 

Echepuckwa — Pipe. 

Casalalki — Drum. 

Poko— Ball. 

Tokonay — Racket stick. 

Itchaysucha — Tobacco pouch. 

Putchuswa — Hatchet. 

Etchas utakay — Rifle. 

Saphka-— Knife. 



Chaco — House. 
Talopha — Town. 
Topopeke — Pen. 
Pithlo— Boat. 
Topa— Bed. 
Archeta — Blanket. 
Connarwa — Beads. 
Chalvecanowow — Armlets. 
Tofa — Feathers. 
Kuphatuka — Hat. 
Tuksayke — Hunting-shirt. 
Uphe-tayka — Leggings. 

Stillspika — Moccasins. 

Chasee — Deer-skin dressed. 

H uksayke — Wrapper. 

Hasse — Sun. 

N ethlehasse — Moon. 

Hutte chumba — Stars. 

Nethlay— Day. 

Nethlee— Night. 

Totika — Fire. 

Wewa — Water. 

Ecunnraw — Ground . 

Fucke — Dirt. 

Nini — Trail road. 

Wekiwa — Spring. 

Hatch uche — Branch. 

Hutchee — Creek. 

Wethlucco — River. 

Wetikay — Lake. 

Tenetkay — Thunder. 
Hulallay— Wind. 

Itto— Tree. 



GLOSSARY. 



277 



Elatus — Wood. 

Alaha — Orange. 

Yallaha — Sweet Orange. 

Yallahattmacks — Sour Orange. 

Oketoksu — Magnolia. 

Itto Micco — Magnolia Glacia. 

Eto Micco — Red Bay. 

Alatcha — Oak. 

Alatka Chumpa — Live Oak. 

Tala— Palm. 

Tallaloko— Palmetto. 

Chuli— Pine, 

Helocoppe — Gum. 

Uecheanatho — Cypress. 

Achena — Cedar. 

Haino — Maple. 

Halist-chumpa — Sugar Cane. 

Chastalay. — Water Mellon. 

Fomischay — Musk Mellon. 

Conti-katke — Coonte the bread root. 

Hehla — Tannier. 

Aha — Wild potato. 

Atchee— Corn. 

Toklike— Bread. 

Pahke — Grass. 

Echolocco — Horse. 

Echo — Deer. 

Wauca — Cow. 

Yah-hah— Wolf. 

Catsha — Tiger. 

Efa — Dog. 

Tokale— Mole. 

Hulputta — Aillgator. 

Kowikay — Gopher. 

Lutcha — Turtle. 

Saputka — Frog. 

Chitta — Snake. 

Okeepa — Musquito. 

Yahchilane — Eagle. 

Pochelane — Paroqu e t . 



Wartola — Sandhill Crane. 

Wauco — Heron. 

Attolochate — Curliew. 

Sochapaka — Pelican. 

Soole — Buzzard. 

Huppe — Owl. 

Sukbulbar — Bat. 

Futcho — Duck. 

Penwa — Turkey. 

Fuschatti — Red Bird. 

Fuswahaya — Mockingbird. 

Patchechole — Dove. 

Petche — Pigeon. 

Haintstohe — good. 

Hulkwa } 

Hulwak > Bad. 

Holewagus ) 

Hunela — Hand. 

Ulwe— Tall. 

Chatkwa — Small. 

Kachuckanasis — Short. 

Yonnotchay — Dark. 

Saputhatke — Light. 

Manitche — Young. 

Hatke— White. 

Chatte — Red. 

Sopa — Blue. 

Ackola — Green. 

Lane — Yellow. 

Chumpa — Sweet. 

Arowah — I. 

Oha— Thou, You, Your. 

Iste — He. 

Ery— My. Mine. 

Mastchay — Increase number or 
length. 

Che — Increases size, as 

Echo — Deer ; Echoche — Many deer. 

Nithle — Dog ; Nithlemaschay — Ma- 
ny dogs. 



278 GLOSSARY. 

By a reference to this glossary, many of the names of rivers, towns, 
&c, may be better understood. Wealuste, from wewa, water, and luste, 
black. Pithlachucco, from Pithla, a boat, and Chucco, big, because the 
lake is shaped like a boat, &c. 

Understanding the Seminole language but imperfectly, we have borrow- 
ed the above from Smith, Simonds, and others. 



APPENDIX. 



THE TREATY OF MOULTRIE CREEK. 

1824. 
James Monroe, President of the United States of America — To 

all and singular, to whom these presents shall come greeting : — 

Whereas a treaty between the United States of America, and the Florida 
tribes of Indians, was made and concluded on the 18th day of September, 
one thousand eight hundred and twenty-three, at Camp on Moultrie Creek, 
in the Territory of Florida, by commissioners on the part of the United 
States, and certain chiefs and warriors of the said tribes, on the part and in 
behalf of the said tribes, which treaty is in the following words, to wit : 

Article I. The undersigned chiefs and warriors for themselves and 
their tribes, have appealed to the humanity, and thrown themselves on and 
have promised to continue under the protection of the United States, and of 
no other nation power or sovereign, and in consideration of the promises 
and stipulations hereinafter made, do cede and relinquish all claim or title 
which they may have to the whole Territory of Florida, with the exception 
of such district of country, as shall herein be alotted them. 

Article II. The Florida tribes of Indians, will hereafter be concen- 
trated and confined to the following metes and boundaries ; commencing 
five miles north of Okehumke, running in a direct line to a point, five miles 
west of Setarky's settlement on the waters of Amazura, (or Withlachuche 
River,) leaving said settlement two miles south of the line, from thence in a 
direct line to the south end of the Big Hammock, to include Chickuchate, 
continuing on in the same direction for five miles beyond the said ham- 
mock, provided said point does not approach nearer than fifteen miles the 
sea coast of the Gulf of Mexico, if it does the said line will terminate at that 
distance from the sea coast, thence south twelve miles, thence in a south 
30° east direction, until the same shall strike within five miles of the main 
branch of the Charlotte River, thence in a due east direction to within 
twenty miles of the Atlantic coast, thence north fifteen, west for fifty miles, 
and from this last to the beginning point. 

Article III. The United States will take the Florida Indians under 
their care and patronage, and will afford them protection against all per- 



280 TREATY OF MOULTRIE CREEK. 

sons whatsoever, provided, they conform to the laws of the United States, 
and refrain from making war, or giving any insult to any foreign nation, 
without having first obtained the permission and consent of the United 
States : And in consideration of the appeal and cession made in the first 
article of this treaty, by the aforesaid chiefs and warriors, the United States 
promise to distribute among the tribes, as soon as concentrated undei the 
direction of their agent, implements of husbandry, and stocks of cattle, and 
hogs, to the amount of six thousand dollars and an annnal sum of five 
thousand dollars a year, for twenty successive years, to be distributed as 
the President of the United States shall direct through the Secretary of 
War, or his superintendants and agent of Indian affairs. 

Article IV. The United States promise to guarantee to the said 
tribes, the peaceable possession of the district of country assigned them, re- 
serving the right of opening through it such roads, as may from time to 
time be deemed necessary, and to restrain and prevent all white persons 
from hunting, settling, or otherwise intruding upon it. But any citizen of 
the United States being lawfully authorized for that purpose, shall be per- 
mitted to pass and repass through the said district, and to navigate the wa- 
ters thereof, without any hindrance, toll, or exaction from said tribes. 

Article V. For the purpose of facilitating the removal of the said 
tribes to the district of country allotted them, and as a compensation for the 
losses sustained, or the inconveniences to which they may be exposed by 
said removal, the United States will furnish them with rations of corn, meat, 
and salt, for twelve months, commencing on the first day of February next. 
And they further agree, to compensate those individuals who have been 
compelled to abandon improvements on lands, not embraced within the limits 
allotted, to the amount of four thousand five hundred dollars, to be distribu- 
ted among the sufferers, in a ratio to each, proportional to the value of the 
improvements abandoned. The United States further agree, to furnish a 
sum not exceeding two thousand dollars, to be expended by their agent, to 
facilitate the transportation of the different tribes to the point of concentration 
designated. 

Article VI. An agent, sub-agent and interpreter, shall be appointed to 
reside within the Indian boundary, aforesaid, to watch over the interests of 
said tribes ; and the United States further stipulate, as an evidence of their 
humane policy towards said tribes who have appealed to their liberality, 
to allow for the establishment of a school at the agency, one thousand dol- 
lars per year, for twenty successive years ; and one thousand dollars per 
year, for the same period, for the support of a gun, and black smith, with 
the expenses incidental to his shop. 

Article VII. The chiefs and warriors aforesaid, for themselves and 
tribes, stipulate to be active and vigilant in the preventing the retreating to, 



TREATY OF MOULTRIE CREEK. 281 

or passing - through of the district of country assigned them of any absconding 
slaves or fugitives from justice, and further agree to use all necessary exer- 
tions to apprehend and deliver the same to the agent, who shall receive or- 
ders to compensate them agreeably to the trouble and expenses incurred. 

Article VIII. A commissioner, or commissioners, with a surveyor, 
shall be appointed by the President of the United States, to run and mark, 
(blazing fore and aft the trees) the line as defined in the second article of 
this treaty ; who shall be attended by a chief, or warrior, to be designated 
by a council of their own tribes, and who shall receive while so employed, 
a daily compensation of three dollars. 

Article IX. The undersigned chiefs and warriors, for themselves and 
tribes, having objected to their concentration within the limits described in 
the second article of this treaty, under the impression that the said limits did 
not contain a sufficient quantity of good land for them to subsist on, and for 
other reasons: it is therefore expressly understood between the United 
States, and the aforesaid chiefs and warriors, that, should the country em- 
braced in said limits, upon examination by the Indian agent and the com- 
missioner, or commissioners, to be appointed under the 8th article of this 
treaty, be by them considered insufficient for the support of the said Indian 
tribes, then the north line as defined in the 2d article of this treaty, shall be 
removed so far north as to embrace a sufficient quantity of good tillable 
land. 

Article X. The undersigned chiefs and warriors, for themselves and 
tribes, have expressed to the commissioners their unlimited confidence in 
their agent, Colonel Gad Humpreys, and their interpreter, Stephen Rich- 
ards ; and, as an evidence of their gratitude for their services and humane 
treatment, and brotherly attentions to their wants, request that one mile 
square, embracing the improvements of Ewhe Mathla, at Tallahasse, (said 
improvements to be considered as the centre) be conveyed in fee simple as 
a present to Colonel Gad Humphreys : and they further request that one 
mile square at the Ochesee Bluffs, embracing Stephen Richard's field on 
said bluffs, be conveyed in fee simple as a present to said Stephen Rich- 
ards. The commissioners accord in sentiment with the undersigned chiefs 
and warriors, and recommend a compliance with their wishes to the Presi- 
dent and Senate of the United States, but the disapproval on the part of 
the said authorities of this article, shall in no wise affect the other articles 
and stipulations concluded on in this treaty.* 

In testimony whereof, the commissioners, William P. Duval, James 

Gadsden, and Bernard Segui, and the undersigned chiefs and warriors 

have hereunto subscribed their names and affixed their seals. Done at 

Camp, on Moultrie Creek, in the Territory of Florida, this eighteenth day 

"Disapproved by Government. 
36 



282 TREATY OF MOULTRIE CREEK. 

of September, one thousand eight hundred and twenty-three, and of the 
Independence of the United States, the Forty-eighth. 

Wm. P Duval, l. s. 

James Gadsden, l. s. 

Bernard Segui, l. s. 

Nea Mathla, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Tokose Mathla, his JxJ mark, l. s. 

Ninnee Homata Tustenuky, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Micanopy, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Nocosee Afola, his [xj mark, l. s. 

John Blunt, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Ottemata, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Tuskeneka, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Tuski Hajo, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Econchatimico, his ^ mark, l. s. 

Emoteley, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Mulato King, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Chocolohano, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Ematlochee, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Wekse Holata, his [xj mark, L. s. 

Amathla Ho, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Holatifiscico, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Chefiscico Hajo, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Lathlon Mathla, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Senufky, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Alak Hajo, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Fahelusta Hajo, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Octapamico, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Tusteneck Hajo, his ^ mark, l. s. 

Okoske Amathla, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Ochany Tustenuky, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Philip, his ^<j mark, l. s. 

Charley Amathla, his [xj mark, l. s. 

John Hassorey, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Rat Head, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Holata Amathla, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Foschati-mico, his £*j mark l. s. 
Signed, sealed, and delivered in presence of 

George Murray, Secretary to the Commission, 

G. Humphreys, Indian Agent. 

Stephen Richards, Interpreter. 



TREATV OF MOULTRIE CREEK. 283 

Isaac N. Cox. 

I. Erving, Capl. Ath Artillery. 

Harvy Brown, Lieut. Ath Artillery. 

C. D'Espinvelle, Lieut. Ath Artillery. 

Jno. B. Scott, Lieut. Ath Artillery. 

William Travers. 

Horatio S. Dexter. 

ADDITIONAL ARTICLE. 

Whereas Neamathla, John Blunt, Tuske Hajo, Mulatto King, Emath- 
Iochee, and Econchatimicco, six of the principal chiefs of the Florida Indians 
and parties to the treaty, to which this article has been annexed, have 
warmly appealed to the commissioners, for permission to remain in the dis- 
trict of country, now inhabited by them, and in consideration of their friend- 
ly disposition, and past services to the United States, it is therefore stipulat- 
ed, between the United States and the aforesaid chiefs, that the following re- 
servations shall be surveyed and marked by the commissioner or commis- 
ioners, to be appropriated under the eighth article of this treaty : For Nea- 
mathla and his connections, two miles square, embracing the Tuphulga 
village, on the waters of Rocky Comfort Creek. For Blunt and 
Tuski Hajo, a reservation, commencing on the Appalachicola, one 
mile below Tuski Hajo's improvements, running up said river four 
miles, thence west two miles, thence southwardly to a point, two miles due 
west the beginning, thence east to the beginning point. For Mulatto 
King and Emathlochee, a reservation commencing on the Appalachicola, 
at a point to include Yellow Hair's improvements, thence up said river for 
four miles, thence west one mile, thence southwardly to a point one mile west 
of the beginning, and thence east to the beginning point. For Econchati- 
micco, a reservation commencing on theChatahoochee, one mile below Econ- 
chatimicco's house, thence up said river for four miles, thence one mile west, 
thence southerly to a point one mile west of the beginning, thence east 
to the beginning point. The United States promise to guaranty the 
peaceable possession of the said reservations, as defined to the aforesaid 
chiefs and their descendants only so long as they shall continue to occupy, 
improve or cultivate the same, but in the event of the abandonment of all or 
either of the reservations by the chief or chiefs to whom they have been 
allotted, the reservation or reservations, so abandoned shall revert to the 
United States, as included in the cession made in the first article of this 
treaty. It is further understood, that the names of the individuals remain- 
ing on the reservations aforesaid, shall be furnished by the chiefs in whose 
favor the reservations have been made to the superintendent or agent of In- 






284 TREATY OF MOULTRIE CHEEK. 



diaii affairs in the Territory of Florida, and that no other individuals shall 
be received or permitted to remain within said reservations without the pre- 
vious consent of the superintendant or agent aforesaid ; and as the aforesaid 
chiefs are authorized to select the individuals remaining with them, so they 
shall each be separately held responsible for the peaceable conduct of their 
towns or the individuals residing on the reservations allotted them. It is fur- 
ther understood between the parties that this agreement is not intended to pro- 
hibit the voluntary removal at any future period, of all or either of the afore- 
said chiefs, and their connections to the district of country south, allotted to 
the Florida Indians by the second article of this treaty, whenever either or all, 
may think proper to make such an election, the United States reserving the 
right of ordering, for any outrage or misconduct, the aforesaid chiefs or either 
of them with their connections within the district of country south afore- 
said. 

It is further stipulated by the United States, that of the six thousand 
dollars appropriated for implements of husbandry, stock, etc., in the third 
article of this treaty, eight hundred dollars shall be distributed in the same 
manner among the aforesaid chiefs and their towns, and it is understood 
that of the annual sum of five thousand dollars, to be distributed by the 
President of the United States, they will receive their proportion. It is 
further stipulated that of the four thousand five hundred dollars, and two 
thousand dollars provided for by the fifth article of this treaty, for the pay- 
ment for improvements and transportation, five hundred dollars shall be 
awarded to Neamathla as a compensation for the improvements abandoned 
by him, as well as to meet the expenses he will unavoidably be exposed to 
by his own removal and that of his connections. 

In testimony whereof, the Commissioners, William P. Duval, James 
Gadsden, and Bernard Segui, and the undersigned chiefs and warriors have 
hereunto subscribed their names, and affixed their seals. Done at camp 
on Moultrie Creek, in the Territory of Florida, this eighteenth day of 
September, one thousand eight hundred and twenty-three, and of the In- 
dependence of the United States the fortj'-eighth. 

William P. Duval, l. s. 

James Gadsden, l. s. 

Bernard Segui, l. s. 

Neamathla, his ^ mark, l. s. 

John Blunt, his Jxj mark, l. s. 

Tuski Hajo, his Jxj mark, l. s. 

Mulatto King, his [xj mark, l. s. 

Emathlochee, his {xj mark, l. s. 

Econchati-micco, his fxj mark, l. s. 



TREATY OF MOULTRIE CREEK. 285 

Signed, sealed, and delivered in presence of 

George Murray, Secretary to the Commission. 

James W. Ripley, 

G. Humphreys, Indian Agent. 

Stephen Richards, Interpreter. 
The following statement shows the number of men retained by the 
chiefs who have reservations made them at their respective villages : — 

Number of meu. 

Blount, - 43 

Cochran, ..... 45 

Mulatto King, 30 

Eraathlochee, ----- 28 

Econchati-micco, ----- 38 

Neamathla, 30 



Total, --- 214 

ORDER NO. LXXIX. 

Head Quarters, Army of the South, ) 
Tampa Bay, April 5th, 1837. ) 

1. 

The commanding general has reason to believe that the interference of 
unprincipled white men with the negro property of the Seminole Indians 
if not immediately checked will prevent their emigration and lead to a re- 
newal of the w T ar. Responsible as he is for the peace and security of the 
country, he will not permit such interference under any pretence whatso- 
ever, and he therefore orders that no white man, not in the service of the 
United States, be allowed to enter ary part of the Territory below St. Johns 
River, and the Gulf of Mexico, south of Fort Drane. 

11. 

The inspector general will cause all merchant or transport vessels arriv- 
ing in this harbor to be immediately examined and the names of all indi- 
viduals on board to be registered. No one will be allowed to come ashore 
except for the transacting of public business. Vessels from whence any 
individuals shall be landed contrary to this order, or on board of which 
spirituous liquors may be found, will be immediately sent off, and shall not 
be employed in the public service. 

in. 

All negroes now at this place, the property of citizens of the United 



2S6 LAND TITLES. 

States, will be sent to St. Marks. The inspector general will furnish Lieut. 
Vinton a list of them, with their owners' names. Lieut. Vinton will give 
notice to their owners to take charge of them immediately. 
By order of Major General Jessup, 
(Signed,) 

J. A. CHAMBERS, 

Lieut. Jlid-de-Camp, and Mjt, Gen. 
Officio. 
J. E. Johnston, Lieut, and Ass. Jldj. Gen. 

LAND TITLES. 

The King of Spain granted lands to all the inhabitants of his colonies, 
whether natives or naturalized, who desired to occupy and cultivate them. 
Fees to the officers who made and registered the title papers, and to the sur- 
veyor, were all that were required in payment. 

To the council of the Indies was entrusted the power of making laws to 
regulate the subject of land claims. 

The first step necessary to obtain a grant of land, was to present a peti- 
tion to the Governor, or sub-delegate. He referred the petition to the sur- 
veyor to learn whether the land applied for was vacant, and royal domain. 
It was then submitted to the Fiscal, or Attorney General, to know if there 
were any legal objections to making the grant. If near a military post, the 
chief engineer was consulted, to know whether the grant would interfere 
with the defence of the place. When all these officers reported in favor of 
the grant, the decree was made in favor of the petitioner, and sent to the In- 
tendant, for confirmation. The officers of Intendant, sub-delegate and Gov- 
ernor, were very often included in the same person. 

The quantity granted, was regulated by the capacity of the petitioner to 
improve it, and by the amount of his credit, with the sub-delegate.. One 
hundred arpents were usually granted to the heads of families ; fifty arpents 
to each child, and twenty-five for each slave ; but a favorite could usually 
obtain as much land as he asked for. A complete title was, however, rare- 
ly made, until the grantee could prove actual residence on, and occupation, 
and cultivation for the term specified in the grant ; usually ten years. For 
pasturage, pine lands were often granted to the amount of ten or fifteen 
thousand acres, and for erecting a saw mill, sixteen thousand were given. 

SALES. 

In purchasing lands, the same qualifications were required of the purcha- 
ser, as were required of the grantee, and no one was allowed to purchase 
any more than he could pasture or cultivate. Lands were always sold at 



LAND TITLES. 287 

auction, as they might be demanded, a price being first affixed by the fis- 
cal, or by appraisers appointed by him : below that price they could not be 
sold. Sales were also repoited to the intendant, for completing the title. 
All titles were to be recorded in the office of finances. 

compromise: 

When a petitioner stated that he had rendered services to the King, suf- 
fered losses in his service, or by his servants, or that debts were due him by 
the government, lands were often granted him by way of compromise. In 
that case, it was regular to have his audited account filed on the protocol ; 
endorsed as discharged, by the indemnity ; and the certificate of conveyance 
certified the whole transaction. 

In point of system, the Spanish land office was very defective. All 
grants were bound up in large bundles called protocols, and marked with 
the year in which the grants were made ; but it required much labor and some 
expense, for a petitioner to ascertain whether the land he applied for had not 
been already granted. It was the business of the Attorney General to as- 
certain that fact, but he sometimes made mistakes ; when it did happen 
that a grant was surveyed on another man's land, the sub-delegate always 
permitted it to be removed to other vacant lands. 

It also often happened that planters obtained grants for lands, that were 
found on trial to be unfit for tillage ; in that case, the location was removed 
on showing the facts. In both the above cases, the grantee was required 
to make a formal recession of his first grant, which was duly filed in the 
public archives. 

St. Augustine and Pensacola, were the seats of goverment for the pro- 
vinces of East and West Florida. The country about Pensacola is poor, 
and the good lands of the interior were covered by the Seminole Indians ; 
for these reasons few grants were made in West Florida. On the contrary, 
some of the best lands in the Territory lie near the sea-coast of the Atlan- 
tic, and on many of the navigable lagoons and rivers. The country was 
settled at an earlier period, and by a people much more enterprising and in- 
dustrious, than those who established the military posts at Barrancas, St. 
Rosa, and Pensacola. Besides, the native Indians of the whole country, 
were long accustomed to visit the convent, of St. Helena, at St. Augustine, 
as the head of all their religious institutions, and a journey to that place 
was considered in the light of a holy pilgrimage. Agriculture, as well as 
commerce was greatly encouraged, for the support of the population. And 
hence it is, that most of the good lands in East Florida were covered with 
private grants, while in West Florida, there were very few out of the neigh- 
borhood of Pensacola. 



2gg LAND TITLES. 

At different periods, an extensive farming population spread over the 
country, between the Atlantic coast, and the St. John's River ; but they 
were often broken up by the enemies of the province. 

Lands were granted for the encouragement of every kind of merit : the 
mill grants were most numerous, although there were never many mills. 
For every kind of service in peace and war, and some of them of a very ex- 
traordinary kind, grants were liberally made ; and yet there can be no rea- 
sonable doubt of their having been confirmed to the possessors, had the 
Spanish government continued in Florida. 

These provinces were far removed from the mother country which was it- 
self distracted by revolutions and totally unable to render her colonies assist- 
ance in any emergency. She could not even pay the salaries of her officers. 
The Provincial Goverments were very often obliged to lay under contribu- 
tion the resources of their citizens ; when they did so, it was just, as it was 
politic to remunerate them. Lands were all they had to give, and 
when they granted them, we have yet to learn an instance of their being 
disapproved, either by the King or the council of the Indies. 

The United States by the Treaty of St. lldefonso, have bound them- 
selves to do, what the Spanish Government would have done. Had there 
been no suc'h clause in the treaty, our Government would have been bound 
in justice, to confirm the rights of the Floridians ; for by their purchase of 
the Territory, they deprived the inhabitants of the power, of demanding 
their rights, of their former Government. 

The°Congress of the United States, taking into consideration, the situa- 

ation of those inhabitants, that had occupied and made improvements, on 

lands of the public domain, before the cession of the country, granted to 

such settlers as were heads of families, six hundred acres in fee simple. 

And they have since that time, by successive acts, granted the right of 

pre-emption to one hundred and sixty acres, to actual settlers on the public 

lands. The last of those acts expires by limitation, on the first day of 

January, 1838. 

The titles to lands in West Florida, have been all decided by the gov- 
ernment ; many of those in East Florida, are still depending in the superior 
court of the eastern and southern Judicial Districts. 

The largest grants in West Florida, were made to John Forbes and Co. 
by the Seminole 5 and Tallaposa Indians, in consideration of certain robberies 
and spoliations committed on the trading establishments of the grantees, by 
the natives. Two of these grants were located on the east side of the Ap- 
palachicola River. They are estimated to contain, one million three hun- 
dred thousand acres, and cover nearly the whole of Gadsden and part of 
Leon counties. A third, but small grant on the west side of the Appa- 



LAND TITLES. 289 

lachicola, covers St. Vincent Island and a small tract, below Lake Wimico. 
The titles to these three tracts arc confirmed to the claimants by the United 
States. 

In East Florida, the government have confirmed to the claimants, the title 
to two hundred ninety-three thousand acres, granted to De la Maza Arre- 
dondo, situate in Allachua County. It covers some of the finest lands in 
the Territory. 

The claims of Aronbede for ninety thousand acres situate on the Sand- 
wich Gulf, and that of Mirandy, for about three hundred thousand on Tam- 
pa Bay are still pending. 

The largest grant was made to the Duke of Allagon and since transfer- 
red to Richard S. Hackley, Esq., of New York. It commences at the 
mouth of the Amasura or Ouithlacoochee River and from thence to its head 
near fort King, thence by the east side of Myacco Lake, to the head of the 
river Hujelos, thence down that river to its mouth, thence by the Gulf of 
Mexico to the place of beginning. These boundaries embrace several mil- 
lions of acres. The title to this grant has not yet been confirmed. But it 
has been carefully examined by many of the best jurists of the United 
States, who have uniformly decided that the title is a good one. 

For the purpose of fixing on a situation for a new settlement within the 
boundaries of lands sold by Mr. Hackely, to a compan}' in New- York, 
Col. Gaorge W. Murray sailed for Key West on the 18th of May, 1832, 
and arrived there on the 8th of June. Here he purchased a small sloop, 
in which he embarked, together with W. R. Hackley Esq. ,and Mr. P. B. 
Prior, on the 27th of June, to explore the coast and rivers of the Gulf. 

From the journals of these Gentlemen, I have been permitted to extract 
the following information, respecting this interesting part of the Territory. 
They have also kindly favored me with their draughts of the coast, and for 
which I beg leave to tender them my grateful thanks. 

COLOOSAHATCHE. 

Col. Murray of New-York, accompanied by W. R. Hackle}', Esqr. and 
Mr Prior, visited Carlos Bay in a small sloop, called the Associate, com- 
manded by Capt. Bunce. After visiting Cayo Pueblo, inhabited by several 
Spaniards and Indians, they proceeded on the 7th of July, to ascend the 
bay, and at 1 P. M. anchored opposite a fishing rancho. 

8th. Proceeded up the bay, found the channel narrow, crooked and diffi- 
cult to find, frequently ran aground on oyster shoak, returned to the 
rancho. 

9th. Messrs. Hackley, Prior, and the pilot, took the small boat with se- 
veral days' provisions, and proceeded to explore the Coloosahatche River. 

37 



290 COLOOSAHATCHE. 

Above the rancho, the bay was about three miles wide. Its shores covered 
with pine timber, occasionally broken and diversified by grass savannas, four 
miles to Curlew Point. Then N. E. by E. four miles to Punta Cayman. 
Then N. E. eight miles to Rocky Point. Thence N. N E. eight miles to the 
mouth of the river, which was fresh water. The bay was two miles wide 
above Curlew Point, depth two fathoms. The mouth of the river is che- 
quered with mangrove islets, and the water among them shoal with oyster 
bars, but a channel winds through of seven feet. The banks covered with 
tall pines and saw palmettoes. The islets sprinkled with live oaks and 
palms, affording good cotton land. 

Above the Cayos or islets, the river opens to four hundred yards in width, 
and from two to three fathoms deep. The shores on both sides a savanna, 
covered with high grass as far as the eye could reach, diversified with small 
hammocks of live oaks and palms. The banks usually four feet above the 
water, at high tide. After noon the banks appeared to be clothed with a 
thick forest of very large live oaks, and the shores were lined with man- 
groves ; seven miles from the entrance the river forked, the left branch was 
ascended. The water shoaled to four feet, proceeded two miles, landed 
and encamped for the night, shot several wild turkeys, they were numerous 
and tame. 

10th. Proceeded up the creek eight miles, by cutting away the branches 
that interlocked across the stream, poling the boat, being unable to row. 
The banks were perpendicular, and from seven to eight feet above the wa- 
ter. The course of this branch is about N. N. E. and appears like an arti- 
ficial canal, only it is very crooked. The water in some places is very 
deep, and the land on its borders rich. We now returned to the fork, 
which we reached about 11 A. M. and proceeded up the main stream, 
about eighteen miles, and encamped. Both banks of the river are covered 
with dense forests of live oak and palms, entangled with vines ; the land is 
excellent, varying from four to twelve feet above the water, the hammocks 
more than half a mile wide, where they penetrated it. The river is very 
crooked, and the width narrowed to fifty yards. The water falling. 

1 1th. The river now bends to the north for five miles, then N. E. The 
banks varying from eight to fifteen feet high, showing a stratum of shell 
limestone six feet below the surface. Live oaks and palms of great height 
cover the banks. Numerous branches, rivulets, and springs of cool sweet 
water, enter the river on both sides. One spring in particular, burst from 
the rocks on the shore. The timber on the borders of the river now becomes 
intermixed with the peccan tree. Messrs. Hackley and Prior, walked two 
miles into the country, found a good soil and excellent growth of timber, 
saw plenty of wild turkeys, but no deer, though their tracks were 



COLOOSA1IATCHE. 291 

numerous. At noon had proceeded near fifteen miles, the river thirty 
yards wide. A deep stratum of marie, lined both shores for several miles. 
The river in the course of another mile, had narrowed to fifteen yards. 
Here commenced a rapid which continued two miles ; had to haul up the 
boat by the painter, then entered a small lake three fourths of a mile long', 
and three feet deep, its course N. E. it was full of grass, innumerable fish, 
and alligators ; the banks were clothed with excellent pasturage. The 
land was explored for six miles, N. W. from the falls. The country 
at first, showed signs of having been overflowed at some distant time ; 
further north, the land was diversified with grassy plains, broken by springs 
of water, surrounded with groves of oak, palm, peccan, &c. Numerous 
small ponds covered, in places, with cane grass and mallows, but no ap- 
pearance of marshes. The hammock trees were covered with grape vines 
loaded with fruit, very pleasant and healthful, in appearance much like 
the isabella grape. The plains near the rapids, rise gradually from the 
river, and spread off in some directions as far as the eye can reach. The 
soil a dark sandy loam, very proper for the production of tropical fruits. 
An Indian hunter who resides here, informed the party that there was an 
Indian settlement fifteen miles to the N. E. abounding in cattle, ponies, &c. 
He had a beautiful poney, for which he asked thirty dollars. He said they 
usually raised two crops of corn, during each season. About ten miles 
from the mouth of the river, a creek enters from the N. W. whose waters 
are deep and sluggish, and the hammoeks on its banks thick and heavily 
timbered, and the soil a dark brown sandy mass of earth ; this hammock 
extends two or three miles, and is then succeeded by pine timber. A small 
stream of water from the interior, entered the creek with a rapid and forca- 
ble current. 

After exploring the coast below the Caximba, among innumerable man- 
grove islands, in search of the Delaware River for several days, Col. Mur- 
ray and his party returned to Key West, to refit and lay in a new supply of 
provisions, &c. 

On the 27th of August, they again sailed for Cape Roman, and anchored 
in Chatham Bay on the 2d of September. After sounding out a channel, 
they finally anchored at the entrance of the Caximbas, the Indian Keys 
bearing S. S. W. about two miles distant ; the Delaware and Gallivan 
bearing N. N. E. distant four miles. 

September 3d, 1832. Col. Murray, Mr. Hackley and Mr. Prior left the 
sloop to explore the Delaware, in their small boat. They at first passed 
through a bay, studded with mangrove keys, thence to the forks of the 
Delaware and Gallivan, and entered the former ; it being the right hand 
fork. It was one hundred feet wide and five feet deep ; the banks low but 



392 



COLOOSAHATCHE. 



dry ; the banks were both lined with tall mangroves ; the course at first 
N. N. W. winding to N. W. by N. Passed a field of corn en the left 
hand bank, two miles from the entrance. The river now became so narrow 
that the boatmen had to lay by their oars and pole the boat through the 
mangrove bushes, while the gentlemen cut the limbs that opposed their pro- 
gress. In one half mile they came to a fork and took the right hand branch, 
which was from six to eight feet deep, but the mangroves were so entangled 
across the stream, that they soon abandoned it and returned to the fork. The 
left hand fork was then examined, but like the former, led into an impene- 
trable thicket of mangroves, and was abandoned. 

The Gallivan was then entered ; it was one hundred yards wide, and 
eight feet deep. It soon divided, and the left hand branch was examined ; 
the current was very strong, embracing many small keys, and the course 
varying from W. N. W. to north, then round to south, back to N. W. and 
N. E. The channel often so narrow that mangrove limbs had again to be 
cut through. Rowing and poleing by turns, as the river became more or 
less narrow. They here found many wasps nests suspended from the limbs 
near the water. It was difficult to avoid the attacks of these belligerent 
insects. The current was their only guide among the keys ; they however 
found a channel, varying from six to fifteen feet deep, for about eight miles, 
when they arrived at an extensive grassy plain, inundated with water. 
The stream then took a N. E. direction ; became very narrow, with from four 
to six feet water. At length the boats rubbed the shore on both sides at the 
same time, and the banks became marshy. They stopped and Mr. Hackley 
and Mr. Prior waded through the marsh to dry land. On their return they 
stated the land to be excellent, the soil a black mould, the timber live oak, 
palm and cocoanut. There were indications of many wild animals, bears 
in particular ; there were also many vacant huts. The whole distance from 
the mouth of the river, they estimated at fourteen miles. An observation 
taken this day, gave 25° 53' latitude, the Thermometer range, morning, 
noon and envening, 78. 90. 82. 

On the 4th of September, the company weighed anchor and sailed S. E. 
for the purpose of exploring the St. Marys River. In nine hours they an- 
chored in the bay, into which that river was supposed to disembogue. They 
found ten feet water, and a safe harbor. Many sea fowls, such as curlews, 
coots, &c. were killed. Here an Indian, with his wife, came along side in 
his canoe, on his way to Indian Key, to sell his deer skins and other trifles ; 
he was supplied with provisions, and he proceeded on his voyage. Ther- 
mometer, 79. 90. 84. 

September 5th, The Party proceeded in the boat, to explore the river. 
They proceeded in a N. E. course three miles, up a wide passage through 



COLOOSAHATCHE. 293 

mangrove islands ; a spacious lake then opened before them, which they 
named Oyster Bay. Three miles in a N. N. E. direction, brought thern to 
the confluence of two rivers ; here they landed at an Indian clearing, where 
some cane was growing luxuriantly ; the place was deserted, though some 
huts were standing. The western river was three hundred yards wide at 
its entrance into the lagoon, the waters six feet deep at half flood. A 
north west course two miles reduced the width to seventy-five yards. It 
then branched off east and west. The east branch was thirty yards wide 
and from eight to ten feet water ; it continued to grow narrower, and became 
enclosed in mangrove bushes, so that they had to abandon it. The western 
branch was entered with no better success, they proceeded about a mile 
and had to abandon it. A branch about half a mile above the Indian field 
was one hundred yards wide, and had ten feet water, but it fell off like the 
others, which it probably joined, making the Indian field an island. The 
mangrove trees rise to thirty feet, without limbs, then spread their foliage 
in a singular manner ; the ends of the twigs often bend over to the opposite 
side of a stream or in the stream, and there take root and grow into trees ; 
these interweaving their branches so thickly, that birds can scarcely pene- 
trate them. Here is also button wood and the cotton shrub. 

They next explored the north east river which was two hundred yards 
wide at the mouth, its water, seven feet deep. Their course among mangrove 
islands, varied from north to south east, alternately. Sometimes they could 
row the boat, but often the bushes obliged them to pole and cut their way 
with their knives. The current was very strong against them. They pass- 
ed through two beautiful lakes from fifteen to eighteen feet deep. In this 
way they proceeded about ten miles, when suddenly the stream contracted 
to a very narrow passage, which terminated in an inundated grassy plain, 
beyond which live oaks, palms and pine trees were seen at a distance. They 
backed down the stream, having no room to turn their boat for some dis- 
tance. At length they reached their sloop, and sailed for Charlotte Harbor. 

September 5th. Stood out of the St. Marys harbor, which cannot be 
entered by large vessels. During the expedition thus far, the showers and 
tempests of wind and lightning have been violent, and have occurred al- 
most every day ; very often they rise suddenly and as quickly disappear ; at 
other times the waters would pour down for two or three hours, without in- 
termission. 

September, 6th. The sloop was drifted along the coast, by a current 
leading N. W. Passed Cape Roman at two o'clock in the morning, dis- 
tant one fourth of a mile, but repeatedly struck the bottom. The night 
was very dark and rainy. Towards morning, a violent squall struck the 
sloop, and raged for two hours, during which all sail was taken in, and they 



294 COLOOSAHATCHE. 

lay at the mercy of the seas. By day light, the storm had passed and a 
moderate breeze, enabled them to hoist sail and lay their course. At four P. 
M. made the Rar.cho flag staff; soon after a canoe came off with several of 
the inhabitants, who were delighted to see them return. Anchored within 
the outer bar in nine fathoms water. 

7th. — Took in a pilot, a Mexican named Greig, to conduct them through 
Charlotte Bay. Sailed at 8 A. M. inside of the keys, of which there 
are five, between which there are three passages, north of Sanybal. The 
first Bocca Seca, Bocca Capativa, and Bocca Grand. At the distance of 
twenty-five miles from Punta Raza, they made the island inhabited by the 
Calde family. The old Spaniard is said to be ninety years old. On the 
same key resides Mr. Willis, inspector of the customs, who was building a 
house on the north end of the key. Both of these persons were absent at 
the time. Passed in the course of the day, many keys that were under 
cultivation ; producing corn, pumpkins, melons, potatoes, various kinds of 
beans, etc -The lime and cocoa-nut trees on Calde's Island looked flourish- 
ing, and produced abundance of fruit. The sloop was supplied with these 
articles. The island contained from fifty to sixty inhabitants. 

8th. — Sailed with a fine S. E. breeze, among many small islands to 
Bocca Grand, which has fifteen feet water on the bar. The bay is spa- 
cious and beautiful. From Bocca Grand they steered N. E. by E. ; at two 
miles distance passed the Corona, an oyster reef two miles long. Thence 
fifteen miles into the estuary where the Macaco and Talackchopko pour 
their waters. This estuary is about ten miles wide, the banks low and 
generally lined with mangroves, but in some places with pine woods. Here 
an observation was taken, the result 26° 53' north latitude. They anchor- 
ed in the mouth of Talackchopko, in six feet water, near Rancho Point. 
Thus far a vessel drawing ten feet water may come with perfect safety. 
The lands in this vicinity are universally pine barrens. Much of the tim- 
ber had been cut off, but not recently. No fresh water was found except a 
well of miserable water. Laid by at this place till the morning of the 10th, 
exploring the neighboring shores and the pine woods. 

Sept. 10th. — Left the sloop and proceeded in the boat at flood tide, to as- 
cend the Macaco River. For two miles the river was one and a half miles 
wide ; passed a range of small keys which lay two miles east of us, and 
extended about two miles. The river now contracted to half a mile wide. 
Then a savanna covered with tall grass four miles. Then quite an open 
country, very wet, with islets of dryland. The river now turns north- 
east three miles. Then it bends alternately from north to west. The land 
low in places, covered with water. The timber varying from live oak and 
palm to water oak and cypress. A thunder gust at 11 A. M. Landed 7 



COLOOSAHATCHE. 295 

pitched their tent, and remained two hours, when the storm passed over. 
Continued their course up the river against a strong current, winding from 
south-east to north-east, then north for four miles and again varying round 
sharp points to the west for six or seven miles. The banks still low and 
wet, and the timber varying with live oak. water oak, hickory, maple, cy- 
press, palm, and pine. A large creek here enters through the left bank 
round a high, bluff point, covered with pine woods. The other side of the 
creek was bordered with a forest of oaks. The river again turned north- 
east for two miles. Then for several miles it made short turns N. W., E., 
S. E., then round to north. Another deep creek enters the left bank, and 
there the party encamped. 

11th Sept. — Continued their voyage at 6 A. M ; the river still more 
rapid, overflowing the banks for three or four miles, among the oak forests. 
The river continues very crooked, the banks alternately pine barrens and 
swamps, then hammocks, sometimes sandy plains destitute of trees, but 
covered with meagre palmettoes. It was not without much difficulty that 
they found a spot towards evening, on which they could comfortably en- 
camp for the night. Proceeded this day, by calculation, twenty-four miles. 

12th. — This day the course of the river was northward ; it continued 
equally crooked and equally rapid, but becoming much narrower ; proceed- 
ed this day about twenty miles. Encamped at 4 P. M. in a wet hammock 
of live oaks. The party usually halted for a couple of hours in the middle 
of each day, for the rowers to rest and refresh themselves. The gentlemen 
then usually scoured the woods in search of game. 

13th. — This day passed a very narrow part of the river. It was also 
much obstructed by drift wood, and the whole country appeared to be in- 
undated by the water. The timber for a few miles was live oak or willows. 
At length they arrived at a high piny bank, on which was a log house and 
several palmetto huts ; two canoes were fastened to the bank, and several 
domestic utensils were scattered about, but no inhabitants were found. 
The river grew narrower, the bends shorter, and the current so swift, that 
the rowers with all their strength could make little progress. As a high 
piny bank rose, and the weather appeared threatening, the party landed 
and encamped.. The hunters went out for game but returned unsuccessful. 
The river here was thirty yards wide ; the opposite side a dense oak forest. 
Rowed this day fifteen miles. 

14th. — This morning made another hunting excursion, but saw no ani- 
mal, although the tracks of deer were plenty. Proceeded up the river 
four or five miles through thick woods of willow, cypress, peccan, oak and 
palm ; and at length reached pine woods again, where there was an Indian 
settlement of three families, among whom there was a woman more than. 



296 COLOOSAHATCHE. 

a hundred years old. They cultivated corn, tobacco, upland rice, peas 
beans, pumpkins, melons, etc. Their land was good and they appeared 
friendly, offering melons to the party, which were received and tobacco 
given in return. They stated that the head springs of the river were dis- 
tant three days' journey, the river very narrow and crooked, and obstruct- 
ed by timber and vines. That around the head springs there were some 
hundreds of Indians. This information decided the gentlemen of the party 
to return, besides their provisions were growing scant, and their hunting 
had lately been unsuccessful. In three days they reached their sloop at 
the mouth of the river. 

The gentlemen of the party on comparing the two streams, Macaco and 
Coloosahatche, concluded that the Macaco was much the largest, afforded 
the best navigation, the greatest quantity of timber for commerce, and the 
greatest quantity of good land, but being fiat and wet, it would probably be 
unhealthy, and require a negro population to cultivate the soil. The Co- 
loosahatche on the contrar}', they thought would be more healthy, and af- 
forded many beautiful situations for sea island cotton and tropical fruits, and 
the game and fish extremely abundant, with a very safe harbor. 

September 17th. — The gentlemen of the expedition, sailed down the 
western coast about eight miles and entered the mouth of the river. It is 
about two miles wide, at its mouth ; the country is a fiat prairie, slight- 
ly covered with grass, and the land poor ; at some distance from the 
banks scattering pine trees are seen, that increase in size and number as 
you recede farther from the river. Many small streams cross the prairie 
and fall into the river at short distances apart. Here, water fowls were 
abundant, and numerous spoon bills and curlews were shot for the use of 
the table ; the plumage of the former is very beautiful. Many small keys 
clothed with palms and cedars, diversify the first entrance of the river, 
for some distance. At the distance of fifteen miles from the mouth, the 
banks have scattering palms and pine trees, and soon after live oaks of a 
small size are seen, but the soil, thus far, is sandy and poor. Landed to ex- 
amine an enclosure of logs, notched together into a pen. It contained the 
skeleton of an Indian, the scull and vertebrae were resting against the logs, 
at the east end of the enclosure, the legs were also drawn up. They land- 
ed at five o'clock on the right bank of the -river, which had contracted to 
thirty yards wide. The water had varied from twelve to six feet in depth. 
They estimated their distance from the mouth, at thirty miles. 

18th. Continued their route four miles farther, when the channel became 
so blocked up with sunken logs and brush, that they were unable to force 
their way any farther. They went into the interior for some distance, but 
found only a poor, pine barren country. 



COLOOSAHATCHE. 297 

19th. — Sailed down the bay, past the Corona Shoal, and anchored in 
front of Cayo Palao, twenty-four miles below the S. W. branch. On this 
key, there is quite an extensive settlement, perhaps from sixty to seventy in- 
habitants, who keep an abundance of hogs, and dogs innumerable. Here 
they obtained #lams, oysters, squashes, melons, &c. in exchange for some 
trifling articles of merchandize. 

From Cayo Palao, they steered for Bocca Grand, and examined Casta 
Firma (called on the old Spanish Charts, Cayo Muspa,) it lies south of the 
main entrance. It is a mass of shells in a state of partial decomposition, 
covered with myrtle shrubs, hikok or coco plumb and small palms. 
Some years ago Calde put some hogs on this island ; the}' increased pro- 
digiously, and furnished his rancho with abundance of excellent meat. 

They next visited Pine Island on the east side of the bay ; it was covered 
w r ith pine woods and various grasses ; some fields were cultivated in pota- 
toes, pumpkins, squashes, mellons, &c. Corn was said to grow well, but the 
deer were so numerous on the island, that they destroyed it and prevent- 
ed its cultivation, They were told that the island was eighteen miles long, 
and that a passage on the east side, four feet deep, separated it from the main 
land- A sand}' shoal extends across the bay, from Pine Island to Bocca 
Seca, on which there is not more than three feet water, at low tide. 

Of the three islands that extend east of Casta Firma, they examined only 
Sanjbal. It is the easternmost of the group, is eight miles long and two 
and a half wide, has a fine harbor at the N. E. point, varying from two 
to four fathoms in depth, with fourteen feet on the bar. On the island there 
are streams of fresh water. The. Island is about eight feet above the high- 
est tides, and is dry and healthy, and almost constantly refreshed with sea 
breezes ; several buildings were erected here, before the Seminole war com- 
menced : all are now destroyed. 

March, 1833. Mr. P. B. Prior made a journey from Tampa Bay, through 
part of the Seminole country, to the mouth of Sanybal River, to purchase 
some cattle from the Indians. March 13th, he travelled to Dixon's, six miles. 
The lands here are generally thin, but there are spots on Mr. Dixon's farm 
that produce excellent crops of provisions, and there was made this year, fif- 
teen barrels of good sugar. Many parts of this neighborhood has a substratum 
of rich calcareous marie, a few inches below the surface, it has been found 
to be excellent manure for the pine lands. The range for cattle is good, the 
country bung intersected with small streams of water, 

March 13th. Pursued a course N. E. by E. twenty-five miles. The 
country is rather poor pine lands, but diversified with small ponds and savan- 
nas ; there is also very good grass and plenty of water ; on the whole, it is 
a. good range for stock. 

38 



298 COLOOSAHATCHE. 

14th. The country is similar to that travelled over yesterday, but rather 
better. Passed many lakes and ponds, on the banks of which there are 
many small hammocks. Our general course E. S. E. We crossed Tal- 
lahchopka about 3 o'clock P. M., where it passed through a large glade cr 
savanna, and arrived in the evening at the dwelling of Sewwky, my Indian 
guide. Tt was situated in the forks of the river, formed by the entrance of 
a large branch from the east. Travelled this day sixteen miles. This river 
was explored as far as the lake, by Messrs. Hackley, Murray, &c, 16th 
September 1832. 

15th March. This day spent in assisting Seweky to hunt cattle, assist- 
ed by Indians and negroes. The two branches of the river meet in a deep 
swamp, ten miles long, and about two miles wide ; extensive wet grassy 
plains stretch to a great distance on both sides of the river, which is forty 
yards wide. We swam it on horseback, driving the cattle across. The 
lands here are poor. Two miles from the forks on the east side, there is a 
small Indian town, called Tobasa or Wahoo. Eight miles below there is 
another new town just built, without a name. This place, the Indians say, 
is from twenty-five, to thirty miles from the head springs and lakes, on the 
highest ridge of the peninsula. 

16th. Left Seweky's at 10 A. M. with eight large steers, and two cows 
with calves. Crossed the east branch, and reached the nameless town at 
4 P. M. The pine land is here good, better than any we have before 
crossed. Our course has been S. S. E. eight miles. Staid here the 17th, 
all the Indians being drunk. 

18th. Started, at 6 A. M., at 10 crossed a small creek over a natural 
bridge, called Con Iwa Creek. It rises again half a mile below its exit. 
Encamped at a small Indian settlement, where a sorrel horse was pur- 
chased for the Indian drivers ; made this day eighteen miles over poor pine 

lands. 

19th. Travelled nineteen miles, most of the way poor pine land spotted 
with ponds and glades. In the afternoon crossed two fine streams of wa- 
ter. Continued a S. S. E. course. 

20th. Continued the same course this day eighteen miles. Suffered for 
want of water. There was no stream or pond, a few muddy puddles we did 
find, and strained the water through our handkerchiefs to quench our thirst. 
This night the cows and horses strayed back three miles, and delayed us 
hunting them the next morning. 

21st. Got our cattle under way, and travelled till noon over a most 
dreary country. White sand hills then continued till almost night, when 
a low pine country succeeds interspersed with innumerable ponds. At 4 
P. M. passed a small Indian town in sight of the trail. It is called Tallah- 



COLOOSAHATCHE. 299 

popcha. Three miles beyond it we encamped. One mile from our en- 
campment, two runaway negroes had built a camp where they lived se- 
curely. Travelled this day 17 miles, same course, S. S. E. 

22nd. Proceeded eight miles over plains, a south course, at which time 
we crossed a creek running eastward, called by the Indians Tallepopcah, 
they said that it headed thirty miles north west of us, and emptied itself to 
the eastward in a grassy lake called Myacco, from which they said several 
large streams ran into the Atlantic Ocean. From this creek our course 
was S. S. W. as far as the rapids of Sanybal, which we reached before 
night, swam our cattle and horses over and encamped for the night. This 
afternoon the trail through the prairies was very good, but it rained all day. 
We made twenty miles. 

23d. This day our trail ran in a S. W. direction. It rained all the fore- 
noon, so that we staid in our camp till 1 P. M., we then travelled eight 
miles. 

24th. This day it continued to rain, but we started at six o'clock, the 
thunder and lightning very severe. Crossed several streams, the bottoms 
of which were rock, two of the creeks were large. The banks of one was 
a mass of white clay, with about one foot of mould on it; a small hammock 
of good land extends along both sides of the water. Two miles from this 
creek came to low fiat pine woods, covered with water so that we had 
great difficulty to find a place to camp. Made this day eighteen miles, the 
course S. W. by W. 

25th. The low flat pine plain continued to the edge of the mangroves, 
half a mile from the coast. Made Punta Raka at 3 P. M. Course S. S. 
W. twelve miles. Whole distance one hundred and twenty-eight miles. 

In the month of July, 1833, the bays of Tampa and Sarrazota were ex- 
amined with care : the latter has been particularly described from my own 
observations in 1827. Since that time several settlements had been 
made, and the country was rapidly improving until the Seminole war broke 
out. 

Oyster river at the south-east side of Tampa Bay, was explored for 
twenty miles, where it ends in a small stream from the pine woods. The 
course of this river is E. N. E. It is one mile wide at its mouth, much of 
this space is very shoal and spotted with islands, but there is a narrow and 
deep channel for some miles. The banks are from eight to fifteen feet 
high, and they are clothed with excellent, hammock lands, most of the way 
quite to the head. There was plenty of good spring water in the ham- 
mocks, and the musquitoes much less numerous than on the southern coast. 
Some valuable planters had settled here before the war. 

A stream that enters the bay joining the entrance of Oyster River, on 



yf.) COLOOSAHATCHK. 

the S. W. was ascended about six miles. It was forty yards wide, and six 
feet deep, but fall of islands. At four miles from the mouth, a grass plain 
rises gradually from the west side to the height of fifteen feet, and skirted 
on the west with hammock land, that extended north and south as far as 
the eye could reach. 

The point between these two rivers is called Negro Point. The famous 
Arbuthnot and Ambrister had at one time a plantation here cultivated by 
two hundred negroes. The ruins of their cabins, and domestic untensils 
are still seen on the old fields. 



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